? for Musky or large pike fishermen.

I have been making my own Fluro Leaders for a few years now. I make them using the the Stay-lok snaps. The one problem I’ve run into is that Its hard or sometimes impossible due to the snap design to get the snap onto some Lures eyelet. The Suick and Bulldogs comes to mind. I spend a hour or so last night adding a split ring to the eyes of all problem lures. My questions is will adding that split ring effect the action of the lures much? is this something that others here also do to solve the issue? I used the triple rings that I use to replace damaged ones. Is there a better split ring design I should be using to attach to the eyelets?

IDK about the split rings, but the trick I do to get the stay loc through the eyelet and its worked for me on every lure I have is I turn it sideways and feed it through like putting a thread through a needle.

CaptainMusky wrote:

IDK about the split rings, but the trick I do to get the stay loc through the eyelet and its worked for me on every lure I have is I turn it sideways and feed it through like putting a thread through a needle.

I’ve tried everything possible. The only thing I’ve found that works is to open the bend at the end of the snap and then swivel it around the eyelet and then pinch it back closed. The way they come its to large to get through the eyelet as is and the bend is to small to swivel it around the eyelet. This process really weakens the bend and I fear will lead to failure.

Will it effect action much? No, not much. Not enough to change the mind of a hungry musky IMO. And who knows? It may actually help.

Is it something others do to solve the issue? Don’t know about others but I do it all the time.

Is there a better design to attach to the eyelet? Besides heavy duty split rings and snaps? Not to my knowledge; not practical ones at least.

Side note: I’ve been told Spro makes the strongest split rings per testing done by Berkley. I got this third-hand.

Personally, I use the old camo Bucher Super Split Rings and have depleted my stash down to the nub. They are indestructible. I think the newer ones are OK. Just not the same.

Btw, you may never have a problem with the triple rings, but I have. They are soft and sometimes my attachment will work into the gap and start to unwind itself on the ring. When nearing the end of unwinding itself, triple rings will warp and become out of shape and will fail under load. Again, low probability and this may never happen to you but it’s happened to me several times. Lost a fish due to it once so moved on.

Stay-Loc snaps are great but they also will fail/break. I still use them but replace them with fresh ones often and clamp the little ‘V’ at the end a bit more to help secure it better to the main wire – more security from violent, wild, twisting fish. I use the 200lb size.

I’ve lost so many muskies in so many different ways over the years that it’s become clear to me there is nothing foolproof. About all you can do is lower the odds of failure, and it seems you’re on the right path.

Good luck!

To be honest I don’t fish Muskies often at all. I do take several trips to Canada each year chasing big pike (leaving on the 9th of Sept. for Tobin lake in Sask.)
I make my leaders with 130Lb. Seaguar Abra ZX musky leader material. I use 200Lb Spro Ball Bearing swivels and the 250 or 300 Lb stay-lok snaps. I crimp them with a double barrel crimps. I often cut off the hardware and reuse it as the Fluro starts to get nicked up. Just made up 12 new leaders last night. I test each one by putting the ball bearing ring through a nail on my work bench. I then put a large screwdriver through the snap and pull rather hard to test. I have never had one fair the test yet. Its crazy the amount of pull you can put on one without failing.

A 2 gram split ring isn’t going to hurt the action on a 5 oz (140 grams) bait and you’re already using a snap so it’s not a rigid knot connection either way. Add the split ring but do yourself a favor and ditch those triple rings, they’re junk. I like the smaller Bucher rings, I think #5. Spro are good too.

Muskie guys will always find a way to break stuff – they have no idea there’s a drag setting other than locked down

tswoboda wrote:

A 2 gram split ring isn’t going to hurt the action on a 5 oz (140 grams) bait and you’re already using a snap so it’s not a rigid knot connection either way. Add the split ring but do yourself a favor and ditch those triple rings, they’re junk. I like the smaller Bucher rings, I think #5. Spro are good too.

Muskie guys will always find a way to break stuff – they have no idea there’s a drag setting other than locked down

Thanks for the Info. you are the 2nd person to say ditch the triple rings. I will try and find a different split ring locally here to use and replace the Triple rings that I put on the lures. It funny you bring up the lockdown drag setting. My fishing partner locks the drag down as tight as possible on his old Garcia 5500’s. He says he wants as solid of a hookset possible. I tend to tighten mine down fairly tight as well but not all the way locked down. I often back it off just after the hookset. To me a drag on a good reel is there for a reason. Might as well let it do its job.

tswoboda wrote:

they have no idea there’s a drag setting other than locked down

On two of my Abus (older Tournament Pros I believe) I have the drag winched down and it still pulls out. I got lazy and never sent them in to Abu. Hopefully they still do that cleaning and repair service.

CaptainMusky wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>tswoboda wrote:</div>
they have no idea there’s a drag setting other than locked down

On two of my Abus (older Tournament Pros I believe) I have the drag winched down and it still pulls out. I got lazy and never sent them in to Abu. Hopefully they still do that cleaning and repair service.

My buddies Garcia 5500’s drags still pulls out as well. Even when he has them locked down as tight as his large hands can.

fishthumper wrote:

I have been making my own Fluro Leaders for a few years now. I make them using the the Stay-lok snaps. The one problem I’ve run into is that Its hard or sometimes impossible due to the snap design to get the snap onto some Lures eyelet. The Suick and Bulldogs comes to mind. I spend a hour or so last night adding a split ring to the eyes of all problem lures. My questions is will adding that split ring effect the action of the lures much? is this something that others here also do to solve the issue? I used the triple rings that I use to replace damaged ones. Is there a better split ring design I should be using to attach to the eyelets?

No it won’t matter. If they are feeding they would eat a cat.

Adding splits rings to baits is very common, not only making it easier to attach but on some baits without a snap ring the bait can actually open the stayloc. The triple rings suck. I use #7 bucher split rings on any musky lures.

Joe wrote:

Adding splits rings to baits is very common, not only making it easier to attach but on some baits without a snap ring the bait can actually open the stayloc. The triple rings suck. I use #7 bucher split rings on any musky lures.

I’m really surprised how many don’t like the triple split rings. I was talked into them by a guy at Thorne brothers. Those guys normally really know what they are talking about. The guy who helped me says he changes the split rings on most new baits with the triple ones. I was just buying them and various hooks to have on hand to replace those we end up needing to cut to get a quick release on bad hooked fish. At the time I had no thought on using them on the eyelet of various baits.

Thorne Bros…the quality of the musky advice depends on to whom you speak.

BrianF wrote:

Thorne Bros…the quality of the musky advice depends on to whom you speak.

I’m sure that true. I will say I believe that Thorne brothers does have the most knowledgeable staff of all the fishing retailers in the Metro. Fleet farm is by far the worst. The guy working in fishing and hunting today was the guy working in Hardware yesterday and will be in plumbing tomorrow.

fishthumper wrote:

The guy working in fishing and hunting today was the guy working in Hardware yesterday and will be in plumbing tomorrow.

Haha. A jack of all trades huh

gimruis wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>fishthumper wrote:</div>
The guy working in fishing and hunting today was the guy working in Hardware yesterday and will be in plumbing tomorrow.

Haha. A jack of all trades huh

Sounds like many of the IDO members, except he probably needs to go work in the auto shop dept too.

I think the triple rings were really popular at one time then many guys had them start working loose. Sure they have to be turned an extra time to come off, but the spring rate of the wire is significantly less due to the thinner diameter so it’s way easier for a hook/hook hanger/etc. to find its way under the end of the split ring. I prefer a stiffer ring that won’t allow the hook/hook hanger/etc. in there without deliberately doing so.

Any opinions on oval split rings?

Attachments:

1. 

   oval.jpg
   

Ron wrote:

Any opinions on oval split rings?

I was thinking about them or these

Attachments:

1. 

   Owner-Split-ring-Jpeg.jpg
   

Per the mfg website, using the heaviest size available, Owner oval rings max out at 88lbs. The Owner teardrop shape max out at 55lbs. That’s probably on a straight pull and not twisting and bending under the load of a wild, thrashing fish – which is when the wire tends to allow the connection point to work under the ends.

Probably okay for pike using smaller lighter baits, but I would worry about them when throwing 16oz baits for 40lb+ Muskies. Not sure what kind of fishing you have in mind though…

BrianF wrote:

Per the mfg website, using the heaviest size available, Owner oval rings max out at 88lbs. The Owner teardrop shape max out at 55lbs. That’s probably on a straight pull and not twisting and bending under the load of a wild, thrashing fish – which is when the wire tends to allow the connection point to work under the ends.

Probably okay for <strong class=”ido-tag-strong”>pike using smaller lighter baits, but I would worry about them when throwing 16oz baits for 40lb+ Muskies. Not sure what kind of fishing you have in mind though…

Ya I’ll probably just go with a high Lb. rated normal split ring. The pike we normally catch are not small. But not in the 40 Lb. range either. We get a fair amount of pike in the 40-43″ size and once in awhile get a 45+” fish. We do throw some rather heavy Plastic baits. Normal Bulldogs, shadzillas, 10″ posseidon’s, Ect.

I have also had many problems with the triple split rings working their way off. No quick hook snap, leader loop onto triple ring onto 12” 17oz phantom soft tail. In one cast the leader worked its way half ways thru the split ring. Now I just use standard split rings. I save the triple ones for when I put heat shrink tubing on a hook to keep it in place. The extra width seems to help hold it from twisting.

a split ring on the eyelet won’t impact your action enough to notice. i’ve even got a few Hawg Wobblers with two.

and add me to the list of those who dislike triple rings. they’re softer and i’ve just had way too may stretch out or open up. Worth size 5 / 120lb heavy split rings are the ticket for me on most lures, and i’ll go up to a size 6 or 7 on some of my big cranks with giant hooks.

i also make my own fluoro casting leaders and coated wire trolling leaders.
Dick Moore’s is my go-to for supplies, and his advice is trustworthy.