My testing showed .8 amps draw at 12 volts on a 93svplus with Panoptics ducer. 20 volt Dewalt 5 amp hour battery gives me 5 hours with all depth, distance and brightness at max settings.

I built mine into a Frabil bait keeper With the 93svplus on top. Then built a custom ducer stand to hold the ducer and camera down through an 8” hole. Easy to run & gun looking for suspended fish and cover. It’s easy to carry that kit in one hand and my Dewalt powered 8” kdrill in the other. If my tracked ranger can’t safely go on the ice it all fits nicely into my 4 foot jet sled.

Attachments:

1. 

   AEDCE542-046D-4854-ACE7-CBB781353986.jpeg
   

Thanks for that pic Fishwater. Yesterday I removed the step down module and I am now powering my setup with the 5 amp hour Dewalt 20 volt batteries without any voltage reduction. I’m getting 20.4 volts showing on the Echomap screen with a fresh charged battery and so far it seems just fine. I’m sure I can get more than 5 hours per battery pack in this configuration. After researching further it seems that the low voltage cutoff determined by the newer brushless Dewalt tools is 15 volts so I will set my Garmin to alarm at 15.5 volts to protect the lithium batteries.

Attachments:

1. 

   6AC39FDE-EE71-4A42-8842-C8B08D36BC29.jpeg
   

Would you mind reporting the voltage that is displayed on your 93sv when first connected to a fresh M18 battery? I REALLY need to be sure this graph isn’t going to melt down if it sees 20 volts input. If you could share a pic that would give me the assurance I need to remove this step down reducer from the equation. My theory is that I can get maximum runtime from the 5amp hour 20volt battery without taking the battery too low by using the low voltage warning setting on the graph. My 1st test on the ice with the voltage reducer gave me right at 5 hours but I think I can do better.

I have used my set up 3 times so far here on some Wyoming hard water. LOVE IT! I am just learning to ice fish and it is helping my son and I get dialed in on what these trout respond to. I also mounted my go pro onto the pole to capture some catches thru the hole. On the live scope I could see as many as a dozen marks reacting to my bait but not biting. On the camera I later discovered that they were all sucker fish. Now I know what they look like on the graph. Great tool but you have to learn to interpret what you see on the screen.

There will be parasitic loss with any battery that is connected to your graph and/or GLS-10 transducer unless you install a manual switch behind the battery and before any electronics. How much parasitic loss can only be determined with an ammeter. Every system will be slightly different. The major motivation to use Dewalt 20’s for me is that by starting with 17.7 vlts I can run longer than if I start with 12.7 .
Also:

+ The individual cells used by Dewalt are of the highest grade available.
+ It also allows me to use a single battery platform for running my
electronics, my auger and my floodlight. (35 6″ deep holes per battery)
+ The modular design is light and convenient to quickly pop in another battery
that is already sitting in my kit every 5+ hours….even with gloves on.
+ The GLS-10 runs just warm enough to keep the spare batteries warm inside the
frabil box as well ensuring peak performance when you need them.

Milwaukee batteries are also very high quality cells and very well built. There are of course some very high quality batteries available in 10 and 12 amp hour configurations that would also do very well in this application. Personal preference really.

So far what I have discovered on my unit is that at 11.3 volts the Head unit reports that it has lost connection to the lvs32 transducer. It is spec’d to run on between 10 and 32 volts but that does not seem to be the case. I have submitted an email to Garmin to address this as I have read many posts describing intermittent connection to the livescope transducer.

Thx for that tip Tom. I had not seen that adapter before and thats handy so I ordered one.
For this project though I’ll stick with the other adapter that can be mounted in place because I want to be able to pop batteries into my ice kit and not have them free to bounce around inside. I plan to use the low voltage alarm warning on the Echomap to tell me when to change batteries.

Bman, I have done this exact project and can show you my bench test results. My apologies if this seems long winded but I have spent a ton of time looking for info so I though I might save someone else some legwork.
I have a Garmin Echomap+ 93sv with a GLS 10 sonar black box, PanoptixTM LVS32 transducer. I tested it with a 12 volt 7.5 amp hour battery fully charged using a fluke ammeter and found that the head unit alone only pulled about .25 amps. Once I turned on the Panoptics transducer it jumped up to .60 amps with the display on 100% brightness and depth and distance to maximum (this did make about a .15 amp difference). The brightness affect was hardly measurable from 10% to 90% and even at 100% only equaled about .07 amps. So, with everything on the most I could get it to pull was .60 amps.

The specs on the head unit say max 18 vlts. The specs on the GLS 10 say max 32 vlts. So, I’m opting to use the Dewalt 20 vlt- 5 Amp hour battery since that is what I’m using to run my Dewalt DCD996 on my 8″ K-drill auger. To bring the 20 volts down to acceptable range I am using an adjustable step down converter to bring it to 17.5 volts just to be safe (purchased from Amazon). https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017S2XC3E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1.
I chose that particular module because it is a sealed unit and should be fairly waterproof.

I am still waiting on one part from Amazon to complete my set up. I need the 20vlt 3D printed connector that mates to the Dewalt batteries. As soon as I have that I will get it out on the ice for some real world testing. The Garmin has a setting to warn you when the voltage drops to a level that you choose…..I’m setting mine at 11.2 volts and will be using that as a reminder that I’m going to need to change the battery soon. I expect to get at least 5 hours on one battery. This kit is all being housed in a Frabil 13qt bait station and I have fashioned a livescope ducer pole using clear pvc. I will share pics of all of it after I get back from my first field test this week.

So, the system has been powered up and ran for about 10 minutes at 17.9 vlts using the 20vlt battery with no damage. Wish me luck!

I have done this exact project and can show you my bench test results. My apologies if this seems long winded but I have spent a ton of time looking for info so I thought I might save someone else some legwork.
I have a Garmin Echomap+ 93sv with a GLS 10 sonar black box, PanoptixTM LVS32 transducer. I tested it with a 12 volt 7.5 amp hour battery fully charged using a fluke ammeter and found that the head unit alone only pulled about .25 amps. Once I turned on the Panoptics transducer it jumped up to .60 amps with the display on 100% brightness and depth and distance to maximum (this did make about a .15 amp difference).

The specs on the head unit say max 18 vlts. The specs on the GLS 10 say max 32 vlts. So, I’m opting to use the Dewalt 20 vlt- 5 Amp hour battery since that is what I’m using to run my Dewalt DCD996 on my 8″ K-drill auger. To bring the 20 volts down to an acceptable range I am using an adjustable step down converter to bring it to 17.5 volts just to be safe (purchased from Amazon). https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017S2XC3E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1.
I chose that particular module because it is a sealed unit and should be fairly waterproof. As Dave mentioned, these stepdown modules, the GLS-10 and the Echomap head units all have a small amount of parasitic draw and even though turned off will drain a battery over a couple of days. So, to negate that I will be putting a toggle switch between the battery and the module.

I am still waiting on one part from Amazon to complete my set up. I need the 20vlt 3D printed connector that mates to the Dewalt batteries. As soon as I have that I will get it out on the ice for some real world testing. The Garmin has a setting to warn you when the voltage drops to a level that you choose…..I’m setting mine at 11.2 volts and will be using that as a reminder that I’m going to need to change the battery soon. I expect to get at least 5 hours on one battery. This kit is all being housed in a Frabil 13qt bait station and I have fashioned a livescope ducer pole using clear pvc. I will share pics and results of all of it after I get back from my first field test this week.

Wish me luck!

Dave, I found that exact thing when testing last night. It would be best to have a toggle switch inline between the battery and the step down module. It’s not enough draw to affect a days fishing since you would not pop in the battery till you need it. But, I can see myself leaving the battery in when I get home and forgetting it till I get set to fish again. I also think that the Garmin head unit will also have some parasitic drain as well.

Here are pics of my setup using the Dewalt 20 volt battery using a step down module to bring it below 18 vlts. Pulling .6 amps with livescope on highest settings.

Attachments:

1. 

   VOLTAGE3-1.jpg
   

2. 

   VOLTAGE2-1.jpg
   

I tested the dewalt 20 to 18vlt adapter. It physically changes the shape so that the 20 volt batteries can be connected to the older 18 volt tools however it is still passing through the same 20 volts. And yes, it does draw a small bit of current even if not connected to a tool and will flat kill a battery overnight.