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Viewing 13 posts - 1 through 13 (of 13 total)
  • 3t
    Posts: 15
    #1072139

    Quote:


    Quote:


    Can a bad SI transducer (transom mount) effect the thru hull transducer reading at high speeds? I also get a ton of interference now on the graph at high speeds where I never used to.


    Which units do you have? It may be your thru hull may of come loose. Do you manually switch from SI to in hull? The new update for the 800 900 1100 series took away the automatic settings have you installed the 6.1 updates.



    I have the 898C. I do not have to manually switch it. I was told it switches to the hull automatically at 5mph or so. I just looked, I am still on the 5.7 Version Software. The thru hull transducer seems to be solidly affixed to the hull still. I wonder if the unit uses the thru hull for the 2D at speeds below 5mph? If it does it might make sense that the thru the hull transducer is the problem.

    3t
    Posts: 15
    #1071966

    Can a bad SI transducer (transom mount) effect the thru hull transducer reading at high speeds? I also get a ton of interference now on the graph at high speeds where I never used to.

    3t
    Posts: 15
    #1071863

    I started having the same issue with my 898si my last two times out.

    3t
    Posts: 15
    #1071278

    Great, thanks for information.

    3t
    Posts: 15
    #1033637

    Quote:


    Most species when brought up from the abyss should be fizzed (air removed from the swim bladder) before release. As an alternative, if you have means to put the fish in water, you can clip a lead weight (like an ice fishing depth finder) to the anal fin to keep the fish upright until the swimm bladder pressure equalizes. Then you can pull off a live release.


    We used to fiss large walleyes to get them to go back down on hot summer days on LOTW. Later we were told by a credible source at the SD Game Fish and Parks that fissed fish would also die. As I recall he said they cold not re-pressurize. However I’m not sure if that was based on opinion or research.

    3t
    Posts: 15
    #1021507

    Cycle Guy,
    I have the 625DS and have used it about 6 times this year and am very pleased with the unit.
    I think it performs well in sunny conditions. If the screen directly faces the sun you will need to turn it a couple of degrees and the glare will disapear.
    I have been happy with its ability to store in the soft case also.

    3t
    Posts: 15
    #1012975

    Quote:


    What pound test fluoro are you using?

    For open water walleye fishing, I never, ever go below 12# test and frequently go as heavy as 20# test.


    Joel, I have been using 6# test for open water jigging and tying lindy rig snells. Are you using 12# flouro for these applications?

    3t
    Posts: 15
    #1012846

    Quote:


    Try the San Diego Jam Knot I switched a couple years back and have had great success with it. Easy to tie and very strong.


    Thanks, I will try the San Diego Jam Knot.

    3t
    Posts: 15
    #1012843

    I am tying my knots correctly. Perhaps I have a bad spool of line, or maybe I shouldn’t expect the knots to be as strong as mono or braid. I am using 6# test.

    3t
    Posts: 15
    #1012828

    I also have problems with knot strength when using flourocarbon I use the palomar knot and lube it well. I tried the Cabela’s No-Vis 100% flourocarbon based on the advise of a Cabela’s salesperson but found it to be un-usable. I would like to try P-Line but am worried I am wasting my money.

    3t
    Posts: 15
    #951256

    Thanks for the help. I have noticed that I catch fewer walleyes using braided line in clear water conditions while jigging. I was unsure if it would make a difference this time of year on the Mississippi or Rainy Rivers.

    3t
    Posts: 15
    #951237

    I will have one rod/reel rigged with mono. Do you notice you catch more fish with mono?

    3t
    Posts: 15
    #947362

    Do you need to use livebait when using a Moxi?

Viewing 13 posts - 1 through 13 (of 13 total)