It should hold way more than 100 hours. Humminbird doesn’t publish the exact specs but everyone including them always say that it will hold more than anyone can possibly map in a lifetime. 100 hours is only ~12x more than what the unit holds. You can fill the unit in a day, and 100 hours in 2 weeks. So unless you have a really short lifetime, it will hold way more than 100 hours worth. My guess would be closer to 10,000 hours worth.
Cheers
TRJB
They just released the new VX chips. The map list for Ontario does not show Shoal Lake, nor does it show Lake of the Woods as being updated (no * next to it which designates an update, so I would expect it remains unchanged from the previous version). Since the chip is brand new and just making its way to stores now, I doubt that there will be any more updates released for another copule of years at earliest.
If you want Shoal Lake, Angler’s Edge has mapped it, and honestly, their mapping is better and more accurate than any Lakemaster product I’ve ever seen.
https://anglersedgemapping.com/search?keywords=shoal
Their chips only run on Lowrance units. If you don’t have one, a reasonable workaround is that you can also buy their maps to run on the free Avenza Maps app on Android and Apple phones. I piggyback mounted a wireless charging cell phone holder to my HB unit and it works really well to use the AE mapping.
Cheers
TRJB
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The Spitfire X7 is a great SS 4 blade prop and it made a big difference in overall performance of my boat. RPM range is pretty crucial to propping correctly so you might want to wait until you get that installed to get a baseline before you buy a new prop.
Spitfire X7 is not available for the 115 Command Thrust gearcase, it’s only made in the 4.25″ hub diameter for the standard 2.07:1 gearcase. If you want a 4 blade for the CT gearcase, you have to go to the larger ones they run on the V6 engines. Rev4, or Trophy Plus or Trophy Sport.
Just have to get used to opening them up when you get home and dry them out. You think boat manufactures would get there poop together, I mean its is 2022 and we can put a robot on mars but can not have dry storage in a boat. LOL
Its strictly a cost thing. The Adventure is an entry level, price-point boat. So they have no water control channels for any of the storage. If you buck up the extra $ for the Impact, you get channels that keep more of the water out of the locker, but are still not fully sealed. Then again, if you buck up more $$$ and go to the Pro-V, you get full water control with wide channels that direct all the water to the bilge and sealed lids that keep everything dry as you wish, same as the robot on Mars. But if they add all these features to the Adventure the cost climbs to the point where it equals or exceeds the Impact and then the reason for it to exist in the lineup disappears.
My first screws to come loose were the ones holding the consoles to the gunwale, both port and starboard. I took them all out one at a time and re-inserted using blue loctite. They have not come back out since. This was around opener during my 2nd year of ownership, 2019.
The screws in my floorboards sometimes start to walk up a little bit. Always the ones near the coffin rod storage and the panel in the center that covers the fuel tank. Those ones I haven’t done anything other than re-tighten occasionally. I was afraid to strip them since they’re in wood. I will try out the toothpick method next time!
The floor screws aren’t grabbing in wood. They are going *through* the wood flooring, and grabbing into aluminum ribs that are part of the structure that the wood floor sits on. So still, you don’t want to strip them as that part is relatively thin, but as I noted above, the loctite isn’t likely the best option as the screw is just into “sheetmetal”. In that case, coating it with silicone or 4200 will stop it from turning back out as it will “stick” in the 5/8″ thick plywood too and prevent it from turning.
Got my Adventure 1775 Sport in May and have been *really* enjoying it this summer. It’s a great boat, very stable, and handles the worst 1-1/2 to 2′ chop on the lake/river system I run it on (Winnipeg River) just fine, cuts through waves much better than I nad anticipated and is plenty dry for me. It managed 44mph with the factory Spitfire 17p prop, but I upgraded to the Spitfire X7 and get 46mph now at WOT, 1 person, full fuel tank and all my gear. But the real performance gain wasn’t necessarily speed, it was in handling, I can turn as fast and sharp as I want at any speed without futzing around with the trim and no blowout ever. Like others mentioned though, the fuel gauge is a joke. I put a 76 liters in it on day 1 when the tank was bone dry, and now when the needle is bouncing around empty to 1/8th full, I put a 25 liter jug in and its now at 3/4 to 7/8 full. So I still have around 40 liters in it when the gauge reads empty by my estimation. Still, all around a great boat, plenty of room and performance is excellent!
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Has anyone heard of there’s been any progress on MK onboard chargers being delivered? Think we can expect our orders filled in 2022??
I’m still waiting on my 330 PCL… Ordered it late last summer when they were initially announced as replacements for the PC line, but not expecting it until this spring. Picked up my boat in May and it was still on backorder. Dealer said they hope to see them by end of July, but that’s come and gone. Hoping sometime in the next month or so otherwise I’m just gong to cancel it and get a Noco instead.
Loctite is really designed for machine screws or bolts with relatively fine threads going into either a nut or a threaded metal part, where there are several threads for it to solidify into (it’s kind of like crazy glue). It may or may not work well on self-tapping screws with coarse threads going into thinner sheet metal like a lot of the screws on the boat. In that case, coating the threads of the screw with 3M 4200 before running it back in might work better. That will make the screw stick in everything that it’s going through so it can’t turn itself back out from vibration. But still removable with enough torque on the driver. Try both and see what lasts longer.
Its a bummer that they’ve been selling ice helixes in the 5 and 7 size and they are releasing mega live, which is presumably of great interest to ice anglers, in only 8’s and up.
Are they releasing an ICE 8?
Also – why do I feel like I’m looking at a UFO video?
Although they weren’t initially included in the G4 update for Helix units last fall, Helix 7’s are now being upgraded to G4/G4N, announced end of July and supposed to be with dealers in September. The G4N model will be MegaLive compatible.
Cheers
I believe it works like this:
1) If you have NO SmartCraft gauge installed, the VVM module just plugs into the existing SC connector at the engine.
2) If you DO have a SmartCract gauge installed, then it likely used that SC port. If the dealer did not install a junction box, then there is no spare port to connect the VVM to and you will need to get the junction box to add a second port for VVM.
PN 878492K14
If the dealer already installed the junction box, then it should have an unused port to connect VVM to.
That’s the way it’s shown in this video from Linder’s Angler’s Edge:
Cheers
The 115hp idles at about 700rpm, the control can get it down to 550rpm. Was just curious if the 150rpm reduction made a big speed difference? I use a drift sock off the starboard side to get me to 1.5mph on my old boat and will do the same on my new boat but looking at options.
If my math is correct, it should work out to about a 10% difference in speed.
Motor RPM difference is 550/700=78.5%, or a 21.5% reduction
21.5% less motor RPM translates to 21.5/2.07 (lower end gear ratio) = 10.4% less prop rotation.
So if you were running say 2mph, you would potentially get down to 1.8 mph
At least that’s what the math says, provided that prop slip doesn’t change between 2mph and 1.8mph, which it likely doesn’t.
<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>kro22 wrote:</div>
I have the motor trimmed down right now. It measures 19’7”.
Motor trimmed up it’s around 20’4” give or take with the tongue broke down.Since I’m here, a little update.
This boat rocks. I have two full seasons on it and probably around 80 hours on the motor. No issues other than finding time to fish more.
115 etec HO pushes this boat typically around 44 mph. Perfect conditions I’ve seen 46 with a blimp of 47. Typical quiet running around 37 mph. Fuel economy cruising around 25.
I had to run a 19 pitch Viper prop and could honestly go up more if they made a 20. I can still over rev most cases even fully loaded.
Boat jumps on plane instantly as well. No creep whatsoever. Especially once you hit the power band at 4200 rpm. Too bad they quit making them.
Boat fishes great. Very stable especially for my 2 and 5 year old. Rod storage is superb. It’s honestly a great boat for the price.
I have two gripes. Not that they’re that bad. First I wish I could lock the front two large storage compartments. Second is the fuel gauge. I have a 22 gallon tank. After I burn about 11 gallons it shows empty. I wish it was closer to 18 gallons before it showed empty. But I can go to a fishing vacation and make it all week with long runs on about 30 gallons of gas. (Take two 5 gallon jugs with)
Let me know if you have any other specific questions.
Regards
Kro22Interesting – I have a 2019 Impact 1775 and my first “real” boat. Has a 30 gal tank. Went fishing all weekend on the Mississippi and the gauge was reading almost empty so we just went upstream so I could trolling motor back if needed. Filled her up at the pump and put in 16 gallons?!
This is a common probnlem with all Lunds, and probably other brands too. The senders in the tank can’t cope properly with the slosh of the fuel in the long, narrow, shallow tanks, and read empty when the tank is about 1/2 full. No workaround except to track your fuel usage manually or use vessel view mobile if you have a Merc engine, and even that requires manually entering how much fuel you add each time you refill to be accurate.
For Lunds with Mercury motors, always check the Red Book for prop (and motor height) recommendations. Lund actually tests their boats with these motors and tells you which props are recommended for best performance.
Here’s the recommendations for your boat.
1875-Impact-150-ProXS-Prop.jpg
No problem.
You should also note that the brackets come in both straight (90 degree) and angled (45 degree) versions – you need to get the correct ones to match the track on your boat, some of them use the angled and some don’t.
There’s also other 3rd party brands that are just as good (or better) than the Lund ones at significantly lower cost. Extreme-Max is one:
Extreme Max 90 degree version
https://www.extrememax.com/product-p/3004.3156.htm
Extreme Max 45 degree version
https://www.extrememax.com/product-p/3004.3093.htm
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The way the Lund Sport Trak works is you buy the Sport Trak Adapters, they are approx a 4″ x 3″ plastic ‘puck’ that has splines on the back that fit into the track.
Then you buy virtually any rod holder from virtually any manufacturer you want, and attach it to the adapter, and insert the adapter splines into the track to attach it to the boat.
So take your pick. Find any rod holder you want basically. There are dozens and dozens from numerous manufacturers.
Here’s a video that explains how the system works:
I was planning on buying the Ram Balls – size C – have had great luck with them and seem waaaaaaay easier to mount and move than the Lund ones.
Which ones? Do they make one that is actually directly able to mount into the sport-trak rail without modification?
Well, since I won’t ever be using them I’ll leave my judgment with my initial opinion based on the videos and photos I’ve seen. I bought the 4-pack of the extrem max brackets yesterday for about 1/2 the cost. They look much better to me.
Cheers!
Those new ones look really bad to me.
Sure they’re much quicker to attach and adjust, but that’s about it IMO.
All of the load has to go thru one single point of contact now where the steel t-bolt is. On the old ones the stress from the load was well distributed over the entire length of the sliders. Now its all concentrated. I bet they wobble a lot, and will stress crack relatively quickly where the plastic meets that bolt.
Also, if you can’t find the exact quick connects that Lund uses, they are pretty similar to the Accon quick connects that you can get from various vendors, including Amazon. Shown in the video below. The Accon connectors are designed to be deck-mounted with 2-screws, but if you have a grinder, you could get a couple stainless t-nuts and grind off 2 of the flanges and adapt them to fit into the sport trak, and then use 2 flat head machine bolts to attach the Accon connectors with the same functionality as the Lund version.
Here’s Accon’s product page:
https://shop.acconmarine.com/category/10-quick-release-bimini-hinges.aspx
Cheers
The current factory sport top and bimini top for all recent Lund models both mount to the Sport Trak with chrome bullet-shaped quick connectors as seen in the attached photos. You can quickly remove the support stays for the top in seconds by depressing the lever at the bottom. And if you want, you can remove or move the quick connectors that are attached with a phillips screw and t-nut, and leave no holes in your boat.
You should be able to order these through your dealer, although you would need the compatible knuckle on the end of your stays as well, which might not be as easy to find, I’m not sure if they would sell those separately or not.
If you want, contact Dufort Industries in Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada. They make the factory sport tops and biminis for Lund.
Cheers
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I think you’re good. Sorry for the confusion, but it was hard to piece everything together because you originally posted only a pic of one of the 3 batteries and things didn’t make sense.
Those fuses at the main dash panel with the switches are there to protect the various electronics and electrical pieces and dash wiring if an individual accessory pulls too much power due to a fault or short. The ones we were talking about protect the main wiring harness from allowing a full direct battery short if the main harness gets chaffed or cut. Those are protected by large fuses (the big square on the red wire at your main cranking battery), or breakers (the big black 50A device at your trolling motor battery).
All looks good, and to answer your initial question, yes, the black and red/purple wires at the bow are accessory 12v power that you can use to run a fish finder off of, and will be controlled by the ACC switch at the dash.
Cheers
I could be wrong, but those don’t look like any fuse holder I’ve ever seen, and it’s not common to fuse both the negative and positive wires, only the positive. I would guess those are simply insulated bullet connectors and not fuses, but if you want to pull them apart and check inside, I’d be interested.
That being said, @Jared, your latest message & set of pictures clarify things quite a bit. It does look like the electrical on the trolling motor battery is done mostly correctly, you have a 50amp breaker on the first one. If the one you posted in the initial pictures is the 2nd trolling motor battery but is located in one of the storage compartments and not directly beside the main one with the breaker, then it should also have a fuse on it for protection as there is still a chance of the wiring connecting it back to the other one gets shorted, but it’s hard to tell without exactly seeing how everything is wired.
Cheers
Also here’s the wiring diagram for the 2017 Rebel. Looks like the Black and Red/Purple at the bow are 12 Accessory Wiring. If you google “lund wiring diagram” you’ll find several for Rebels, Impacts, etc. They all have a Black and Red/Purple ACC wire at the bow, so it seems to be a Lund standard. It doesn’t show exactly where the wire originates though, but since the helm has an ACC switch, I’d make an educated guess it goes there, which would be fed by the crank battery.
Put a multimeter on the black wire with the spade lug connector and the red wire with the purple stripe with a connector. Do you see 12V on them?
If you do, then you should check whether they’re connected to the front trolling motor battery or the rear cranking battery. Disconnect the positive of one battery, then the other while checking for voltage at the front black/red wires to figure out which one.
If those wires have 12v and are connected to your crank battery you can use them for electronics, but depending on how much current draw you might need to pull better wiring (8 gauge) back to the crank battery with that yellow rope. I can’t read the gauge off the wiring in the pictures but they look pretty thin. They should work fine for a light load. If they are connected to the trolling motor battery, you can also use them, but likely would get interference on the graph when the trolling motor is in use if you are connecting one to the same battery.
Also a question, is that a factory/dealer install at the trolling motor battery or did you do it yourself? I don’t see any fuses on any of that wiring. You need a fuse on both the wiring going to the trolling motor (most likely the black and red ones with the yellow connectors) and the battery charger (the black ones dipping down behind the battery. With no fuses, if the wire gets nicked and shorts, you’ll start a fire.
Cheers
I don’t think the 2017 Fury has a composite transom unfortunately. From the Lund FAQ page at:
http://www.lundboats.com/faqs/
About halfway down…
“WHAT MATERIAL IS USED IN LUND TRANSOMS?
In 2017, select models have a composite transom. In 2018, all transoms are made with a composite material (exception of the Renegade/jon boats/Predator have aluminum transoms).”
The 2017 Red Book lists the following models as having Composite Transoms:
-1675 Pro Guide
-1775 Pro Guide
-1875 Pro Guide
-2075 Pro Guide
-1675 Impact SS
-1675 Impact Sport
-1775 Impact SS
-1775 Impact Sport
-1875 Impact XS
-1875 Impact SS
-1875 Impact Sport
-2025 Impact Sport
-1800 Sport Angler
-2000 Sport Angler
-1675 Crossover XS
-1775 Crossover XS
-1875 Crossover XS
-1800 Tyee
-1900 Tyee
-2075 Tyee
-2075 Tyee Magnum
-2275 Baron
-1875 Pro V Bass
-1875 Pro V Bass XS
-1875 Pro V
-1975 Pro V
-2075 Pro V Bass
-2075 Pro V Bass XS
-2075 Pro V
-2175 Pro V Bass
The 2018 Red Book lists “Composite Transom” under “Other Exterior Features” for every single model, Fury included.
Cheers
TRJB
For those wishing to compare, I took the overhead photos of the Adventure 1775, Impact XS 1775, Crossover 1775 and Alumacraft Voyageur 175 and scaled them all to consistent lengths and correct widths. If you download them all and use an image viewer that lets you scroll thru pictures quickly, you can compare the interior dimensions by holding your mouse cursor in one location and seeing where it lands on all 4 boats.
Despite the Impact being 11″ wider, The Adventure and the Impact cockpits are virtually identical in terms of floor space (LxW); the Crossover has a couple of more inches in width, same length. And the rear casting decks and bow platforms are effectively the same as well on all 3.
The Alumacraft Voyageur by comparison is *much* smaller inside, both in the main cockpit, the bow deck, and the rear casting deck, despite having the same length and beam specs as the Adventure. And in real life sit-in comparison, it just really felt cramped for a near 18′ boat.
As the pictures demonstrate (and I personally noticed in real world comparison), the Adventure is pretty much an Impact with a slightly narrower beam, but not giving up much else unless the extra side rod locker in the cockpit is super important to you. It wasn’t to me.
Pics are attached.
Cheers
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2.Impact-1775-XS.jpg
3.Crossover-1775.jpg
1.Adventure-1775.jpg
If the fact that the front hatches don’t lock is your only significant problem, don’t let it be. The the same locking hatch latch that they use on the rod locker is less than $50 on Amazon, just buy 2 and spend a couple of hours one Saturday afternoon and install them. I would just put them beside the existing recessed black lifting handles so as to not have to patch the carpet around them. Would be an extremely simple install.
BTW, I also bought a 2021 1775 for delivery in spring with the Merc 115 ProXS. I went with absolutely every available option and then some (stereo, bow cushions, sport top w/hider, ski pole, 4 pedestal seats, upgraded to ProRide/AirRide seats, port slash pan insert for a larger casting deck, bow cargo nets from the Impact XS, custom snap in carpet for the cockpit as Lund doesn’t offer it as an option for the Adventure, etc). Plus a 80 lb Terrova iPilot Link, Helix 9 MSI G4N at the console, Helix 7 MDI G3N at the bow, all networked together.
To the OP… I guess Lund proved you wrong, didn’t they? 3 years running, and this is one of Lund’s best selling models. We’re all entitled to our own opinions, and IMHO, they took everything that was wrong with the Rebel XS and improved upon it for the Adventure. Like others have said, this is basically 90% of an Impact at a much nicer price point, and which for me fits in my boathouse that has a 8′ wide door and won’t fit 96″ wide boats. And I wasn’t prepared to rebuild the boathouse!
I compared the Adventure to basically every available offering from others in the same beam width (Alumacraft Voyageur 175 was a close second, but the Lund blew it away IMO in terms of cockpit space and fit/finish. Princecraft, Crestliner, Lowe and others didn’t have anything that anywhere near as nice in terms of layout, look, feel, interior finishing at all IMO).
Cheers!
Hi Kyle,
The normal standard of dropping one pitch increment from 3 blade to 4 blade (or conversely going up one increment from 4 blade to 3) generally holds true for older designs, but from everything I’ve read, and from some performance tests I’ve seen, this is not true with the Mercury Spitfire props. They were specifically researched and designed to be a one-to-one 4-blade vs 3-blade replacement in terms of pitch, intended to maintain virtually the same top end speed, but improve the holeshot, midrange performance and holding power over the 3-blades.
You actually see result that in your test case, where you lost 4 mph and dropped 500 rpm by switching from the 4-blade Spitfire 17p to the 3-blade Black Max 19p. I’m fairly certain that if you tried a 17p 3-blade Black Max you would see the same rpm and speed at WOT, but poorer performance in the midrange.
You see exactly the same thing in this video where they compared the 2 props, the same pitch Spitfire essentially matched the top end performance of the Black Max (actually gave them 0.2 mph faster, probably within the margin of error) but improved on everything else:
Now what I also understand about the Spitfire X7 versus the standard aluminum Spitfire is that it’s going to do even slightly better than the same pitch aluminum Spitfire because of its increased rigidity. It’s supposed to gain you even better holding power in turns, and a 1-2 mph increase in speed because you can trim it even higher than the aluminum version due to the better holding power.
I would hazard a final guess that if you compare the Spitfire X7 17p to your Turning Point Mach 4, you would see the Spitfire perform a little better as it looks like you lost a bit of speed with that compared to the aluminum Spitfire, and as I said, the Spitfire X7 will be slightly better than the aluminum Spitfire.
Cheers
TRJB
Are they releasing an ICE 8?