there are no great solutions.
TICKS
not just deer ticks, but now the research community is admitting that numerous diseases are caused by many species of ticks.
LYMES
if you vaccinate, you can not get a reliable test anymore.
vaccination is 50% protective.
but, the treatment is inexpensive,
so i’ve gone to treatment on first symptoms.
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Pug-
Don’t jump to too many conclusions here, Pug. I’ve been breeding dogs since ’55 or so and i can’t remember the occasion that we had bad genetic issues, e.g three legged dogs, until i started using flea and tick chemistry.
I still would rather use organic wormers, but they do not seem to be as bad.
I still vaccinate, but extend it to as old as possible.
I’m just trying to say that adding modern chemistries is not always wise.
FWIW we had our first mosquitoes this week…
I do understand that the issues are much worse south of the MD line…
out in the country here, i’ve run DSL, Exceed and 2x Hughes. Right now i’m on my second trip with hughes. I’m getting 50G for $80 which is about as cheap as it comes. the weather can be a b**** granted, but it’s been worth it. I’ve got a 3g Verizon clam for phone and a land line for weather backup. in my media business, i send a lot of material during the down time window (2am to 8am). I get another 50G for that period. Even during production, i rarely go over my limit. Some shoots can go 80-100G each so we use a cloud for that.
And Hughes has not shut down my VPN, like Exceed did…
yes, it’s a nice tool…
thank you. you just saved me about $5000 of ebay fights…
pay after delivery option PayPal offers.
i seem to have missed this. When did this start???
yah, i agree on the PP Gift transfer. Somethings wrong otherwise, but it might just be someone who is not experienced on EFT…
well, pay attention to the audio, it’s 80% of the communicant. the visual is just cream.
i’m kinda in your position. if our audio guy is gone, i’m shot, but i’m studying and it does pay off. Luckily there are fewer variables in audio than visual, so you can learn it. When they started getting into manipulating or ‘modulating’, i’m lost again. Better mics do help…
as a pro, we just turn the cameras on and edit later. the loop feature that GoPro has is wonderful IF you remember that the loop is active and you have to save the shot.
That said, one point: attach the camera to a base that is stable to the action, i.e. the boat windshield is preferable to a head mount most of the time. If there ISN’T a more stable mount, THEN use the head mount. Heads move around a LOT, so the footage is pretty unstable. BUT, you don’t find out until you are back at the editing studio.
But, when push comes to shove, just turn the camera on and watch for dead batteries…
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yes, there are some advantages with not having a better half…
on coffee pots, i’ve gone to a 100% vinegar which is a 5% mix of acetic acid and water.
thanks for posting, Denny. I’m getting about an 80% surprise reaction from my buddies… Except for the one guy who always knows everything, of course…
i hang around with some pretty savvy old farmers and none of them have ever mentioned this to me.
another example of the cheapest method being the best, hence no publicity around it…
i’ve used CRL, trannie fluid and a bunch of penetrating oils over the years and have had moderate success, but nothing like that.
this is very important, i.e. rolling the log b4 finishing the cut.
as a side point to this, when you drop a tree and you are ‘limbing’ it before chunking it out, DO IT RIGHT AWAY.
this summer i dropped some trees because of high winds and left them lay for 2 months before limbing and chunking.
well, summer rains splashed dirt up onto the limbs and i was sharpening about every 15 minutes. a real novice move on my part…
ralph-
you hit the nail on the head. and now i’ve got to clean my screen…
a couple of mmonths ago i was sharpening 3-4 chain, on the bar, off the bar for a couple of hours making sure they were REALLY tuned to the top for a session the next day. A buddy was coming over and we were going to take a couple of trees next to the house down…
well, at least i was smart enuf to check the cut of the saw b4 we began. NOTHING.
Called my buddy over (who has cut his whole life as his dad owned a saw mill). I’ve been pestering him for 2 months to teach me how to PROPERLY sharpen a chain.
“Gary- get your a$$ over here and tell me what i did wrong sharpening this chain. it won’t cut warm better!!!”
i was SOOO angry at him for not helping me…
He grabbed a file and took a look.
Then he said. I think you are sharpening it right, but you’ve got to put the chain on so the CHISEL FACES FORWARD. It won’t cut at all this way…
I really didn’t know what to say. I’d even sharpened it in that orientation. And i’ve wooded since ’74…
KISS…
i meant silver. thanks for catching it.
and an excellent summary of the various chains available. if you’ve not run a full chisel, run a .020 depth gauge for at least a season before you jump to a 30 or 40. they ARE more dangerous.
i don’t disagree with anything you say grouse, and maybe on a public platform, i shouldn’t be discussing.
raker, depth gauge 6 to 1. stihl calls them DEPTH GAUGES…
That said, i tried chains as .030, .040 and .045. I couldn’t see any difference at 30 and the 45 bucked too much for my taste. i converted all my chains to 40 about two years ago and have not looked back. All of that said, i’m cutting mostly soft woods, mostly sugar maple, so i might fall back to 30 if i were doing oak or maple… No question that it has improved my cutting.
i see it as an individual choice. do as you see fit. i think .025 is set for liability concerns. I know the county road crew and the electrical crew run at .035 around here.
i’ve run old Macs for years and they are a horrible saw, but didn’t have the fund to move up market. i heated for many years with them i admit.
however, i think more has to do with operaters than the saw. good gas, sharp chain, most saws will do fine.
that said i’m currently running two stihls and one huskie. i like all of them.
now something that has NOT bee discussed here is the depth gauge. a few years back a guy who has cut for 6 buildings for 20 years pointed out that i should be grinding my depth gauges down to get a faster cutting saw. i had him do it on one of my chains and OMG, i will never go back. i have about half of the gauge ground off and it makes an incredible difference.
now, after having said all that, if you’ve not cut for a few years so that your habits are ingrained,don’t do it. the saw can jump pretty bad as it bites in. IF you do not have a solid grip with a straight arm on the handle, it could be dangerous. BUT, if you’ve run a saw for a few years and have your habits down, it was amazing. Cut TWICE as fast. And even brush fast, something i’ve never found before…
Just saying…
she should be fine.pancreatitis is very treatable. the hardest problem as noted is changing the HUMAN behavior problem. one of the things i’ve noticed with letting the dogs freefeed on venison and calve carcasses is that if the dogs overfeed on one component of diet, they liquify the mis-feed and shoot it out. Diahretic (sp?) discharge seems to be natures safety valve. All is good until it happen inside the kennel instead of the airing yard!!! and if you think your flatulence issues are bad, i’ll give you a free one nite pass for here. you can smell it two stories away when they get into a smelly batch…
all of the above is true even if it is contradictory.
like jon, i’ve always fed table scraps, but never got into pancreatitis. i believe it is the CHANGE in diet that causes problems.
around here we are on an ‘organic’ diet of raw meat with no veggies. zip, zero, nada carbs. All 40 dogs are in great shape. So they are on a protein/fat diet and the bloods look great. The nutritional vets use me for a study site.
on bones, i feed them all, baked, grilled, roasted, fried and have never had any problems (fingers crossed)
now, on the cacophagia (poop eating) the most reasonable explanation i’ve heard is that dogs are nomadic predators and need to adjust the stomach culture to the available diet. made sense to me. little farty when we shift from calves to venison, but otherwise pretty stable.
then I tried it myself. It is a weird feeling to have those rods move on their own when you cross over a pipe or buried wire.
i freaked out the first time also.
PERFECT place to suspend all reason.
Just don’t clip any of them head on…
you can also carry an old block and tackle. I buy tham at farm sales for next to nothing and we put one in each field truck. Staff are not always in good enuf shape to handle the mechanic of a come along!!!
If you have the collar, just set it to vibrate and walk toward the property boundary. when the collar vibrates, stick a flag in the ground or spray some paint. Move over 10 yards and do the same. Work all the way around the property and you will have it marked in 15 minutes. The actual buried wire will be about 5 feet further out.
This will work well. If you decided to use shock on the fence line, just buy the collar you want and then mark the line. REMEMBER to use ‘gas flags’ to mark the boundaries VISUALLY. The dog will learn twice as fast.
ALSO, you CAN use both the house line AND the field training, but you need to set them differently. What usually works is to use vibrate first to warn the dog, the a shock after if there is not a corrected performance. Then the dog is learning that a vibration precedes a shock and that doesn’t muck them up psychologically. that bolt from the heavens can really muck up soft dogs.
Good point. I hadn’t thought of that, though it makes sense. Thanks, Stu.
not a problem. call if you have any other questions. most problems can be avoided with a bit of planning…
By, glad THAT got explained. i had an ENTIRELY different concept of what a Black Betty was…
we run into this in the puppy biz all the time. what i do is take the deposit which is a guarantee to hold the pup until the agreed time (usually 2-5 days). i pull it off the market. IF i get a full pay offer in that period i will take it and return the deposit check. IF they decide after the deposit period that they do NOT want the pup (it’s often a husband looking for permission from the wife to buy) AND i’ve not gotten any other offers, i keep the deposit.
yes, that is what i mean. made a lot of money off of people not understanding that. there really isn’t a workable solution. one or the other with a LOT of training required for the ‘other’.
not sure you can still buy these, but in my Y&D days we used what i would describe as ‘rope on’ chains. bought them at sears. three to four sets on the spinning tire andyou were good to go again. NOT as good as full chains, but easier to set up in a tight situation. mine got used so much they wore out. How’s that for a Y&D testimonial…
