+ultra action

Yes look for the downhill ski or snowboard beanie caps

Portable Power tools battery, Ryobi is what I use.

I know how my answer will be like, get both.

The biggest misunderstanding of buying a rod is people will buy the rod for the rod. Which inevitably often leads to a dissatisfaction of use. The rod’s intended use is primarily for the lures and lure presentation. Yes the final intention of the rod is for the targeted species. However without the right lures or often lure weights, the feel of the rod in use is often missing out on.

The biggest misunderstanding of buying a reel, is people will buy a reel for the rod. Sure it will be just fine, but the reel’s best use is for when you’ve hooked up with the fish. Inevitably the bigger sized reel will be more robust. Sure there are reels with special technical features or special functions like a bait feeder design. When it comes to fishing equipment, small nuances maybe subtle advantages to huge game changer impact for the individual.

The Stormshield is a better insulation layering without the mal-effect of the pin hole weld stitching of which the IQ material relies on. Plus it has a better water resistance coating on the outside that beads off the wet snow or rain snow if the weather is above 32F temperature. Skirt material has some polyurethane coating so it also resist ice freeze in better.

The Stormshield fabric on the XD models are much better than the IQ fabric.

I have no problem using an Ugly Stick for the job, but personally prefer my Thorne Bros. Custom rods. It just sort of depends on the actual lure I’m using or the rig on it.

Rigged and ready to go is usually a soft plastic on a jig. Usually a Northland Bro’s bloodworm.

I would say that my favorites is rather broad. I know when I started, it was a select few lures. Northland Forage Minnow jig/spoon, Doodlebug spoon, Swedish Pimple, ACME Kastmaster. Then as I expand my lure box and tried different lures, I found I really like Northland Buckshot spoons, Lindy Rattl’n Flyer spoons, Rapala Jig’n Rap and Jig’n Shad Rap, Salmo Chubby Darter.

More recent years been doing really well on Kender’s T-Rip lure, Major Craft Jigpara tail spinner

Also super amazing to catch a channel cat on a feathered jig.

Unfortunately Fluorocarbon lines are more likely to break at the knot and that’s just how it is.

I line test the lines I used off my fish scale. So I get results that applies directly to how I tie my knots and on which line.

Gamma Touch .16 mm 4# line break 3# 10 oz. (palomar knot 3# 9 oz.)
Gamma Touch .19 mm 5# line break 4# 14 oz. (palomar knot 4# 5 oz.)

Pline Flouroice .15 mm 3# line break 3# 3 oz. (2011-2yr 3# 9 oz.) (2015 7 yrs 3# 7 oz.)

Pline Floroclear .16 mm 3# line break 4# 1 oz. (2012 palomar knot 4# 4)
Pline Floroclear .18 mm 4# line break 5# 14 oz. (2012 palomar knot 6#1)
Pline Floroclear .23 mm 6# line break 8# 11 oz. (2012 palomar knot 8#1)
Pline Floroclear .25 mm 8# line break 10# 9 oz. (2012 palomar knot 10#1)

ASSO Micron 3 .153 mm 4# knot break 4# 8 oz. Mfg claim break of 4.8# (2011-1 yr 4# 12 oz.)(2015-5yrs 4# 7 oz.)
ASSO Micron 3 .173 mm 5# line breaks 5# 2 oz. Mfg claimed break of 6.2#

How long the line lasts in years? Pretty amazing that fluorocarbon stuff, even just coated version. Off the same reel spool just pulled a few feet to get to somewhat more fresh line and it’s still pretty strong after 5 years. Of course everyone’s mileage may vary. That was back in 2015…and I still have some of those same lines on some reels. Just have to test them again before going fishing.

Berkley Whiplash 20+ yrs
Berkley Original Fireline/Crystal give about no more than 5 years
Berkley Fireline Braid 15+ yrs on the reel – I think, cuz they discontinued it.
Berkley Triline XL and XT no more than 5 yrs in storage. Change out every season.

Pline Floroclear 10+ yrs storage – would be careful after about 5 years on reel. Something about fluorocarbon coat that makes that line lasts super long.

Sufix 832 Advance braid 10+ yrs on the reel.
Sufix 131 G-Core 3+ yrs since they came out with it. Holds better than 832 Advance, but let’s see where it goes in 10+ years on the reel.

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If you use Reel Magic, just be ready to change your line out after one month. That stuff degrades your line tensile strength. And don’t get it on any plastics, it will rot and degrade it out. A few tools and parts peels off like as if they were 20 yrs old, but were only a week after application. Looked great on the day I polished it. I once applied it religiously on my line guides and 80# braid broke right at the top guide where my line bends on it in storage after I checked on it next season. Line broke like magic.

Do not let KVD line conditioner touch any line that will get below 32F. It will destroy that at the molecular level in a few days. So it’s a no for ice fishing.

For really lazy slow style, make to bottom like a drop shot rig or a floater rig?

use stiffer leader line to avoid line tangles.

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Is the egg sinker necessary?

Shimano Poison Adrena 6’10” UL/M spinning rod

dirtywater wrote:

My old man can defeat the very best anti-backlash technology in the game

Well at least they are not falling down or looking like a craft making a landing touch down.

For each person, one has to go with what resonates with each individual the most. What works well for one person, may only work so so for another. There are situational fishing conditions that will favor certain techniques and methods far better than other. For example wind drifting a bobber, or slip bobber in a pocket of vegetation, to maybe even stream fishing. My bobber system for casting to a 10 yards zone is different from casting to a target 30+ yards away.

Some people do enjoy the feel of the rod load with fish on. To others it looks like an unnecessary struggle of a fish fight. Some people need a long winding cast to get any distance with a rod. To others, it’s just a little more than a wrist flick to get the rod to impart action. Some people need the power hook set, raising the rod to 12 O’clock or even more so in reverse. To others maybe a foot or two of the rod tip is enough.

Just never know, experiment a little to find out what resonates with you.

When you get a really nice rod and fish tiny lures it’s has a very different feel in use. Even using stealthy tiny bobbers/strike indicators is totally different from the typical bobber set up.

I’m a stupid St. Croix fanboy, and I really still like my Premiere 6′ L spinning rod. I have a Legend Elite in 6′ L spinning too that does the same thing, just a bit more pronounced.

I had used a Shimano Poison Adrena 6’10” UL/M rod. A unique rod with an UL tip but goes into a M power backbone. Wonderful rod for those stream/river scenarios of panfish in fast current.

At least someone knew it was a good line when it was gifted.

I agree that we never truly know what the fish actually wants. As it goes sometimes the simple traditional rigs of weight, hook, plus a blade out performs any retail lures. Then again sometimes the hot lure of the day, just happens to be that one modified lure.

Or one thing is that one certain lure that’s seen so much wear and tear with busted paint job, is always the hot lure. Still out performs it’s same duplicate brand new one.

I think I’m one of the softer hook set myself only because it’s on a ML or L power rod 95% of the time. I don’t really lose hooked fish, unless I’m horsing them in and bumping into the bottom of the ice. I can’t remember the last time I lost one, cuz it’s very rare. About as rare as a walleye lodging itself perfectly bent into middle of ice hole.

So it goes with the kind of hook and size of hook. Since it’s ice fishing my hooks are on the fairly smaller size. Owner Mosquito hooks size 1, 2, or 4. Owner cutting point dropshot hooks size 2. Trebles on lures are like 12, 10, 8, maybe 6. Mixture of Owner, Gamakatsu, VMC.

When landing/icing the fish, I pay attention to how the fish is also hooked. Is the hook just on the outside of the lips? Is the hook just inside the lips. Is the hook inside and encompassed around the jaw bone of lower or upper mouth. Is hook or lure inside of mouth? Is lure down in the gully? Is hook in the gill rakers? The worst case scenario is hook point isn’t in anything and the fish had the lure mouth only or the hook bend merely is on a tooth/fang.

It just depends, and I feel for myself a somewhat finesse snug pull works for me. Maybe the fish still thinks the lure in it’s mouth isn’t going to get away. I am pretty sure that all it takes is an open mouth and one head shake and the whole lure would be spit out easy. Guess that’s just attributed to luck or the bait casting set up.

If one last thing, the harder the bite, the harder the hook set I tend to give. I can’t remember the last time winter fishing had I experience such hard biting as compared to spring fishing.

Hillsound Trail Crampon Ultra in XL. Fits my Lacrosse Extreme PFT boots size 10 that comes in 14″ length and 5.25″ width snug. They are just like fat bunny boots. Something that needs to be done at home where it’s warm and easy.

Sounds like a good solid plan to me. Everyone will have some preferences.

Always have variety.

As some fish, when they mouth the lure, sometimes not having a front hook, will allow them to engulf the lure without the hook point catching on the outside of the fish’s lips.

Some fish are just head biters, some are just tail biters, so there’s those hooks for hooking into them.

When trying to pull a lively fish into the hole, as sometimes the fish will get a hook point to catch on the ice edge. One of the worst scenario’s of losing fish. Less hook points, less potential unwanted hooks sticking into something else.

lanyard your rods. Some boot lace works great.

Stroft GTM

I always worry about stuff going through USPS because several times they said that I had go to the office to pick up my package only to be told, “We don’t have it.” or “It was sent back already.”

It’s got character!

Those braid fibers probably have over 20 yrs shelf life.

That Scheels’ price is just awesome.

Depends. crappie fishing, walleye fishing, pike fishing, etc.

For crappie fishing, it depends on how aggressive the fish are taking the minnows. Cuz sometimes they get finicky and like to nibble. So either one lets them mouth the minnow for a time or somehow get a hook into some lips. If you hook minnow lips and keep loosing fish then try tail. If both are no hook ups, then try dorsal.

Sometimes it depends on the jig. Your typical gumball jighead or perhaps something more like a CJS Demon Jig.