<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>SLE wrote:</div>
2013 Bass Cat Calico (AKA Yarcraft 186FSX)Do those have jump seats in the back? Cool looking boat!
They did have jump seats. Same exact boat as the 186FSX, just with different badging, decals, and with a bass cat stripe; identical otherwise.
I believe the entire 2023 production forecast of the V238 is spoken for. Most are sold with Verado 450’s ($52K motor), although there is a 4 month lead time on those.
There’s no such thing as a Verado 450. There’s a 450R out of the Mercury Racing Division which I assume you are referring to.
Production wise, many of the manufactures, especially the smaller ones such as Warrior are pretty much at max capacity and are only building retail orders with few to none stock dealer boats being built. Between labor, materials, parts, and engines shortages, everyone is struggling to meet production demands even with prices at an all time high.
Final update, all is happy and everything is finally working and dialed in. I ended up resetting and updating all three units and re-selecting the appropriate master/slave units and installed the new shoot through hull transducer.
For reference, the correct shoot thru hull transducer for the G3N units is the XP9HW. I now get much better 2d signal and returns, actually see fish arc’s instead of blobs, and it appears to give depth readings at speed. It was rough both days I fished and I need to do a little more testing on the speed/depth thing before I call that solved but it seemed much improved.
I have unplugged the DI transducer and you with all networked, the G3N DI unit will pull both DI & SI signals and display both from the G3N SI unit. I was also able to get the G2N bow unit to properly display the SI/DI signals from the network. So, at this point, I’ll call this solved. Certainly post or pm me if anybody reads this and is running into similar issues and I can try and help you out.
Just follow-up note for anyone that’s followed this thread or ran into similar issues looking for a fix. It sounds like my shoot thru hull transducer is indeed NOT compatible with the G3N SI unit. The y-cable is correct (9M SIDB Y) so I have ordered a new shoot thru hull transducer. I’ll update again once it’s installed and tested, probably be a couple of weeks.
For reference, the existing shoot thru hull transducer is a XTM920T. I will be replacing that with a XP9HW (add T to the end if you want temp).
I also verified that there is no way to actually save waypoints between units. If you mark a waypoint on the bow unit, it will only show up on the network if the bow unit is powered up and vice versa. If you want to save those waypoints to the other units, you would need to save them from the bow unit to a SD card and then transfer the SD card to the other units and save the points accordingly.
A few other notes, you can share the G3N SI signal to both the G3N DI unit via the network. You do not need to install the G3N DI transducer as it can simply pull from the SI transducer. I was able to verify and make this work.
I have also been told my G2N SI bow unit should be able to receive the SI signal from the G3N SI unit. I have not verified this but will be doing a system reset and software update on the G2N next weekend and supposedly this should work. It was not working as of this last weekend but hope a system reset and software update takes care of this.
With that said, slowly but surely I might get it all working! I’ll update over time as I get these glitches/bugs worked out.
great list and info, too bad nothing on the new G3N units. Looks like they’ll have to update those charts.
I’m not really running into any problems with the SI and DI both running at the same time on the two different units. I do get some noise reflection on occasion but not a ton. It does seem ridiculous that the SI unit can pull down-imaging from the SI transducer while the DI unit has to use the DI transducer and can’t pull the down imaging from the SI transducer. If I had known that up-front, I probably would’ve changed how the boat was rigged and which units I ordered.
I’m leaning towards the glassed in traducer not being compatible with with the new G3N head unit, that or the y-cable. I’m currently using the y cable to connect the glassed in transducer and the G3N SI transducer to the new G3N SI head unit and it’s not working as it previously did. I’ve had three boats with glassed in transducers an all have worked flawlessly including this one last year before we added the additional head units, network components, and connected the glassed in unit to the G3N head unit
As far as waypoints, that’s kind of a bummer as I only need/use the bow graph maybe 20% of the time. Guess that just means all of my way-points will need to be marked on the built-in dash unit as that one is on 100% of the time if the boat is in the water. so if I want to see the point that I marked on the bow unit on the other, it has to be turned on at all times equating to extra draw batteries and more wear on the unit when I’m not even using or have any need for that unit to be on. Pretty sure Bird could fix this with a software updated.
After owning both systems I can say Lowrance has advantage and better system when it comes waypoint sharing, networking, and transducer sharing.
Probably the most frustrating part is when I made the commitment to run all Humminbirds, nobody seemed to know anything about the new G3N units, including bird. Both my dealer and myself had to call several times working back and forth together while they were rigging and it still isn’t quite right. It’s disappointing that a person lays down this kind of cash for these things and cann’t get them to work right and the manufacture does’t even quite have it figured out.
SOLD
Yar-Craft hasn’t went anywhere and certainly hasn’t fallen out of sight as some has said. Fact is, they are selling more boats now than ever in the history of that company. Since the ownership change to bass cat back in 2012, the product line has continually been tightened and refined with better building techniques and materials throughout the product line. With Joe Okada and Brett King on the pro staff, they have some very good spokemen on their side.
The company has actually also continued to strengthen with its the merger into the Correct Craft organization which houses more 7 boats brands including Natique, Bass Cat, Yar-Craft, Bryant, and it’s own marine engine group along with a few other brands.
Brian, FYI, I think the bass boat comment was in reference to that individual that suggested yar-craft should build a deep v hull with a bass boat cap similar to the Lund Pro-V bass. There are a lot of lund boats in my region and it’s boat I’ve never seen in person and would expect to have a pretty small nitch….
It is apparent however that Yar-Craft owners are not necessarily active web/forum users as most of the yar-craft boards including the face book page and the manufactures page have virtually no traffic.
Not a lot of traffic on here, hopefully this picks up with time. Not sure if any of you have tried the Yar-Craft Owners Board, but it’s like ghost town! Was hoping to see a little more traction here as another dedicated message board for Yar-Craft owners and such.
I like the color scheme walleye4me!
Hopefully you guys will let me hang here even though it’s not quite a Yar-Craft, lol.
I’ve got one that most probably haven’t seen before:)!
2013 Bass Cat Calico (AKA Yarcraft 186FSX)
Bought new in 2015 and getting ready for my 4th season with it. Love the boat, very dry, comfortable, handles well, fast, and good in the rough stuff for it’s size. Next stop will be a 219TFX for the rough water ability, might be a couple more years with this one though!
IMG_1143.jpg
IMG_1146.jpg
Fair enough, there’s no doubt the old Optis are loud and oil is expensive. My HPDI was definitely quieter at idle.
Plane time is definitely subjective, I count being on plane as soon as the bow comes down or as some would say, the boat breaks over. Frankly, watching your video is pretty tough to tell, it would honesty be easier watching from another boat. What I do know is by 30 mph, most boats are well up on plane. My WX 1900 was there between 20-24 mph depending on prop and how hard I was accelerating. I was questioning the numbers because I expected by 30 mph, you were also well up and on plane.
Here’s what I do know, loaded like a tourney start;
1895 Yarcraft Storm w/ 225 opti would run 58-59mph at 5700 rpm 21p tempest
Skeeter WX1900 w/ 200 hpdi would run 49-50mph with three different props. 5400rpm with 21s (tempest and a Yamaha pro series) and 5800 ish with a 19p. I couldn’t find a report of anyone that seen anything over 53-54mph.
Bass Cat Calico / Yarcraft 186fsx w/ 200 Opti ran 59.7mph at 5740 rpm 21p Tempest. It’ll touch 57-58mph every day of the week. As a photo boat, they touched 61.7mph with a stock tempest. Of course that was an unloaded boat.
I live in skeeter land at the lake and this is what I’m hearing from their owners.
2100s with a 250 are low to mid 50 mph boats.
2100s with a 300 are high 50 mph boats with a few reports saying 60mph or a tick over.
Update to the 1910 and 2190s didn’t change top speed much if at all. But much improved in many other ways. I know just looking at them, They fixed 2/3s of my complaints on my 1900 when they came out with the 1910 and there’s a lot to like about them.
All BS aside, the only boat I bought a hydrofoil for was my WX1900 and I see a lot of other skeeters running hydrofoils. I could never get my skeeter to air out like my yarcrafts. No matter what did, I was always dragging a lot of the hull in the water. I know for a fact this why they don’t run the speeds some of the other brands see. Hence, this tells me they need to build more lift into the hulls. It’s an outside observation. I notice the same concession on A couple other brands also.
There are lots of videos of dare I say other flagship walleye boats running high 60s to low 70s. I think fast is a perspective consideration that considers boat size and hp to other comparable boats brands.
I realize I’m being pretty critical. I’ve been critical about my Bass Cat also on things they could improve and sent that list on to them, hull performance wasn’t one of them.
If you want a video, I guess we’ll have to resurrect this next year because I’m likely done for the year. One thing you probably definitely have on me is your season likely isn’t over, ha ha.
I think I’ve derailed this thread way far enough at this point. Hope nobody took anything personally, maybe somebody can start a thread on trucks or beer so I have another thread to focus my evening couch time reading and ribbing others.
Have a good night gentlemen.
I figured my post would get someone’s panties in a knot, I am on the Skeeter forum and on a site that bleeds Skeeter and Yamaha, good thing I got thick skin. If you read through my post I offered some constructive thoughts on props. I tried no less than 9 on the last three boats.
Lambeu, you said your hole shot was 7-9 seconds pre-hydrofoil and 6-8 seconds after, (hence my slug comment) but your hitting 30 mph at 8 seconds?
Sorry no go pro for me but you can do the math or you can try to run me down on the lake:). I know two 2190’s with a 300s couldn’t do it in august on a shotgun start, ha ha. My 200 Opti turns a 21P Tempest plus at 5700-5750 RPM (load and condition dependent) and I see slip numbers below 10% (using the pitch stamped on the prop). With my DAH 19 Rev 4, I have to back out of it as I’m over reving at 5800 rpm at 54+ mph. Probably gonna have to have John at DAH dial out some more RPM or go up to a 20P or 21P.
My some prop suggestions were dead seroious even though I’m having a little fun with your guys, which I chuckle at since they are both mercury props, that’s probably a swear word but they have the best selection available and have hub kits for most other manufactures. I would honestly look at a Rev 4 or maybe the bravo, I just don’t have the experience with the bravo. Some love it, some hate it.
I’m humored a little reading this. You can argue ride and use it as an excuse for the lack of speed but you’ll be hard pressed to convince anybody other than a fellow Skeeter owner that this is the reason. I’ve own 3 boats in the last 14 months and have good friends with skeets, rangers, and a warrior. Sorry Guys, but the big Warriors, Yar-crafts, Lund GLs, Rangers, Nitro’s etc all ride good but some are significantly faster than others. I’ve fished enough tourney’s to know which ones are the runaways, they uusually aren’t skeeters and funny thing, they usually have a black motor not name Suzuki hanging on the transom!
………………..
What are your thoughts?
What upgrades have you tried out?
I had a WX1900 with a 200 hpdi and tried several props including a custom DAH Tempest plus, a cobra edge hydrofoil, and honestly the best upgrade I made was selling it and buying a Yarcraft 186 with Merc power! I’ll probably get flamed but skeeters bigger boats are slugs and there’s no excuse for it. My Yarcraft is 3″ shorter, but 3″ wider, weighs within 100 lbs of the skeeter yet runs 10 mph faster. I can click 60 mph with a DAH 21 Tempest with two guys, full fuel and gear. Even turning my lower pitched DAH 19 rev 4, it’ll rocket out of the hole and will push the rev limiter at 54-55 mph. Frankly, skeeter has some hull work to do and needs to build some lift into their bigger boats.
The only thing I can truly add is to try a good stern lifting prop like the Bravo 1 fs or xs or as mentioned a Revoltion 4. You’ll give up some top end with a rev 4 but the hole shot, bow lift, rough water ride and control will be substantially better than most any other prop. The bravo turns easier and will run faster but gives up bite and control at lower speeds. For me, I’m out of the hole in 3-4 seconds and by 8 I’d be guessing I’m pushing 35-40 mph. I really like the layout of the new 1910 but the performance was unacceptable.
I just assume have a remote drain, those that want to use a plug still can. I think screens should be mandatory over the drain however a small shot of compressed air from the hull side normally clean-out those pesky have eating minnows!
I can’t believe they removed the open close switch’s and went back to plugs, to me that makes no sense. If the pro staff liked using plugs better, just leave the drain open and us a plug. I know I certainly like the remote drain switches and not having to find a plug floating around the bottom of my live well or reaching in to the bottom to pull the plug. I know some boats use a pump in / pump out system, are you sure this isn’t what they’ve done?
socoeye, I believe it’s a pretty isolated incident as I wasn’t able to find much on the world wide web when searching about HPDI injector issues. There is a ton of info about the VST tank, and the different filters that can cause some headaches, but generally speaking the 2.6L HPDIs have a pretty good reputation. After running through two different shops and finding out that it was a very difficult problem to trouble shoot, I now know that every part of the fuel and electrical system has been gone through very thoroughly! Although they truly only found one bank that was having the issue they did error on the safe side and replacing all of the injectors. Like I said, the good news is, after a thorough run through the shop, everything has been checked and double checked so I should hopefully be good to go for years to come. The bad is simply the hassle and money. Kudos to the dealer I bought it from, they were very accommodating, although a 4.5 hour drive away, they did pick-up more than half the tab from there recommended mechanic who did get it fixed and accommodated a delivery within an hours drive of my house. Considering it was out of warrantee, a trade in, given a clean bill of health by a third party dealer, and I took delivery with out doing an on water test, they could have told me to pound sand!
I don’t care what brand it is, they can all have issues! We of course become partial to the one that doesn’t give “us” any issues. Hopefully 7 years from now I can be as proud of my grey motor as I was of my black one. Maybe next time I’ll need to try a white one, ha ha. I always I get a chuckle from homers that through stones at the brand they don’t own. Last thing, I do have to say that the red and black Skeeter on the first page with the Merc hanging on the back is an awfully sharp combination!
FYI, I’m a bit jealous of you guys that have Skeeters rigger with Mercs! Finding a used one is a like a needle in a haystack. After trouble free ownership of an 05′ 225 Opti that was a beast of an engine for 7 seasons, this HPDI stated life in my possession by sitting in two different shops and eventually getting 6 new injectors and no factory help since it was a used rig and a year out of warrantee! I’ll own this mistake as my bad as I had a shop go through it before buying and it got a clean bill of health so I didn’t do on water test with it, not smart! As they say, live and learn. Hopefully that HPDI will be good to go from here on out!
Long time reader, first time poster on this site! Apparently the Skeeter forum rubbed off on me as I find myself with a lightly used WX1900 after updating from my old Yarcraft Storm. After rigorously researching boats I end up with a shortlist consisting of only 5 boats that I would consider, 2 of the five being Skeeter WXs.
Anyhow, below is a pic of my 2011 WX1900 powered by a 200 HPDI, 9.9 kicker, and 101lb 36v Terrova I-Pilot. Electronics wise I just finished installing the electronics package which consist of an HDS8 at the bow, and an HDS8 & HDS7 on the dash all linked through and a Lowrance LSS2. Rail mounted Folbe advantage rod holders should handle my days of trolling. Still to come will be a marine band radio and a few minor odds and ends including some tarp modifications, a fire extinguisher, and possibly the NEMA backbone or Yamaha Command Link.
IMG_0815.jpg
IMG_07141.jpg
IMG_0714.jpg
