Thank you for the replies. We used the launch yesterday afternoon and found exactly what Pat K described. It worked fine for our 17′ fishing boat, but I’d be more cautious with bigger boats/trailers.

Has anybody used this in the past couple weeks? Wondering how useable it is with the really low water we are seeing. Last fall was pretty tricky and I believe the water is even lower now. Thanks

That’s more along the lines of what I was thinking! Did you notch out the sled gunwales to fit the pipes in? I see you have them bolted to the sides also.

You’re playing worse everyday and right now you’re playing like next week. -Herb Brooks

The two most important senses are common sense and a sense of humor. -Uncle

We were out last weekend. The water was not yet as high as it is now, but still pretty high. Had terrible luck. Tried all of the water column trolling and jigging. Anybody going to try this weekend with the high water? Is it worth going out?

riverweed, did you get the clarification you were looking for? If not, I can help with the other bills.

Furthermore, the thing that I feel goes under-recognized is the slippery slope these harsher punishments do to gun ownership. Yes, a felony is bad enough by itself but it makes any future purchase of firearms nearly impossible. So in essense, they take a perfectly law abiding person that made one mistake and forces them to forfeit their firearm and furthermore prevent them from purchasing more.

As mentioned many times before, none of these bills, or any other national bills I have read, would have prevented any of these mass murders. Personally I am fine with more thorough background checks, but until we actually start enforcing the background check laws we have, what is the point of creating more? I have always said, if we feel that laws will prevent bad people from using guns to commit murders, why don’t we just come out with a law that makes it illegal to kill people? Afterall, the criminals will listen to that, right?

I absolutely agree with edge straightening vs. actual sharpening. Granted, sharpening is necessary, but not as often as most think. I took a video of Tom at Randalls resort filleting walleye, he only sharpens a few times a year and does thousands of fish. Just uses the steel religously. I like his technique, I have tried and cannot make it look this easy.

Link to Fillet

Thank You for all of the replies. After much deliberation, I ended up going with a Fenwick Elite Tech. Why? Not really sure. I don’t own one and I have no complaints with my Avids but for some reason I wanted to try something different and it comes with a Lifetime warranty. I’m not a die hard “Brand X is the best” so I like to try different things.

A quick review after one use is that it doesn’t appear to be as fast as my Compre or Avids. It does appear to be just as sensitive as far as feeling bites though and still has plenty of backbone (haven’t hooked into any substantial though). Balance is good and I really like the cork (synthetic) handle, second only to my Compre handle with the finger cut out. Also worth noting is that it is Hecho en China, so I was a little bummed about that.

As an aside, I was surprised that my new Symmetre only came with one spool. My older ones all came with two. Did I get a bad package or is Shimano going away from the extra spool?

Thanks Again

Thank You for all of the replies. The pickle I am having is finding something in a 2 piece. I have a good collection of 1 piece rods and prefer them when I have the option, but in this case, I am trying to find a 2 piece rod for tight travel space reasons.

Do they make an Avid or Smoothie in that size range that is a 2 piece?

How fast is the Smoothie compared to the Avid? I have heard mixed reviews on how fast the Eyecon really is. Some have said its almost a moderate fast comparatively. What about the Premiere line? I have only fished Avids and a couple Triumphs. So how fast is the Premiere? They have a couple options for 2 piece in that line.

Thanks Again!
Nick

Not wanting to start another thread, I figured I would bring this one back. Also in the market for a 5″+GPS. From a bare bones perspective of accurate GPS reading and fishing ID/separation, does either brand have an edge anymore? I am looking at the HB 7 series or the HDS-5. Can’t afford SI right now so just looking at the fundamentals. Also, user friendly is nice, but I am willing to take the time to fine tune either unit.

Please don’t bring back the CS debate as having worked with a CS group, I know a lot of the success/failure lies on the individual reps themselves. Catch one on a bad day (not acceptable) but it could skew your opinion of an otherwise helpful group. Thanks in advance for the input.

Quote:

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I always thought about opening a fresh roasted nut stand in Aitkin. Aitkin Nuts!

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That’s better than a Donkey farm…

I don’t know if they do boat decals, but I have used Lettertech in the cities for some snowmobile license numbers.

I think there are two potential points of confusion that might warrant someone asking the question in the first place.

The first is if the person is confusing nautical miles with Si miles. A nautical mile is 1.15 si miles and is often used in marine and aviation. Now, the fact remains a nautical miles is 1.15 miles whether on land or sea but is more often used at sea and seldom used in every day speech. This might lead to some confusion.

The other area is what someone alluded to and that is relative to land or the water itself. This would show up if you were to compare a GPS mile to a mile somebody measured using a paddle wheel type sensor. In that case, the mile would read differently, but only because GPS is relative to a point on earth and the paddle wheel is relative to the water which is already moving. As mentioned, a mile is 5280ft either way you slice it. Its just a matter of 5280ft relative to what.

I found some photos here:
http://minnesota.cbslocal.com/2011/07/16/bridge-collapses-train-derails-in-fridley/

There is a slide show if you click on the link on the page.

95.2% Sorry, science background led me to be a little too critical. In overall argument, I guess I shouldn’t have gotten to caught up in the 0.2%.

As for the recognition of the other taxes. I absolutely agree that we need to look at the rest of the taxes and I should remind you that it wasn’t the last governor’s idea to raise all the other taxes. You can thank the rest of the people who actually write the bills.

I actually get really frustrated with all of the “hidden” “taxes” that get passed on. Take for example all of the added fees on everyone’s utilities bills for offsetting their losses with alternative energy. Or the fact that we keep raising gas taxes to pay for mass transit. Don’t get me wrong, those are more frustrating than a simple income/property tax modification. In the end, I still contend the answer is not raising taxes anywhere, including hidden taxes, the answer is in controlling the spending. And to that, there is one side that is shooting for cutting spending and one for increasing spending which is where my frustration lies.

That’s a great way of thinking about it. I never thought about it that way.

Apples and oranges. Of the top 50%, few make $100k.

I’m bad with math, but here’s my analysis. Basic needs (defined however each person wants), cost a certain amount of money. $100k allows more “disposable income” (again, define however you want) than <$100k.

Joel

Those were used for easy math. $100k income puts you around the top 11% of earners. So yes, there is not a large share, that was just for easy math. The percent difference remains the same.

Okay, so if you want your definition of fair share, then you need to be asking for a tax break for the rich and a tax increase for the poor which is fine just so long as it’s consistent.

I just caught your 95% of tax comment. Disregarding the inaccurate math, the thing is, the people paying “95%” of the taxes are also making “95%” of the money which, as I explained, is not what is actually happening.

I only used the 1% since that is what the IRS reports. I do not have 2% break down. The idea is the same, rich pay a larger percentage of their money towards taxes than the poor with flies in the face of your “fair share” idea. I actually wouldn’t mind a flat tax system, but again, that would mean cuts at the top and add-ons at the bottom as opposed to making the rich pay more.

As for the sales tax only, I am not sure punishing those who are willing to spend money to buy goods is the answer. It’s a quick way to make the economy stagnant. In order for businesses to operate, they need to move as many goods/services as possible and hindering those exchanges with larger sales tax isn’t really the answer.

For the record, I don’t mind our current tax system, but then again my problem lies in the expense side of the equation not the revenue. If we don’t cut expenses, then whatever revenue we increase will just be alotted to a new expense that is dreamed up and our deficit will never go down.

I usually default to data…

Top 1% average rate = 23.27. This is amount paid after all of the loopholes and what not. They make $100,000, they pay 23,270 (as mentioned above, their income is over 100,000, i just used for easy math.)

Now, top 50% rate = 13.65%. I don’t have data for bottom 50%, but it would be much lower than 13.65 due to our marginal tax system. So, make 100,000, pay only 13,650. Again, these are averages but it shows that the more you make, the more you pay both dollar and % wise.

What you are calling for is a flat tax system which all Democrats including Dayton would be against. But, if you truly want it, then starting suggesting that the rich get taxed less and the poor get taxed more.

So again, I ask, what is fair?

I’ve tried to stay away but I can only read the “fair share” argument so many times before I need to ask. I have heard from many friends, family, and some IDO’ers that they need to pay their fair share. So my question is, what is their fair share? And how much is “enough money” where you can say a person shouldn’t need anymore?
I have asked this question many times and nobody has ever given me a response with reason. What made/makes this country great is that you can dream and can become a multi-millionaire. Do you need every penny of that? No, but who am I to ever tell anybody else what is enough.
For reference, according to the IRS SOI for 2008 (they always lag 2 years), the top 1% of wage earner’s AGI(Adjusted Gross Income) had a floor at $380,354, the top 5% had an AGI of $159,619. Are those more than I make? Absolutely! Do I consider that uber wealthy and multi-millianaire? I can’t by definition. So before you start commenting on the millionaire top 2%, you should check the facts and see what that top 2% translates to for annual earnings.
As mentioned also, the top 5% of wage earners make a combined 34.7% of the total AGI and already pay 59% of all of the tax revenue (on a federal level). So how can the lower 50% which pay a total of 2.7% of the taxes complain about the top 2% not paying their share? You want the majority of people to start realizing what a lot of these inefficient programs cost, then maybe we should start charging the majority a little more taxes and they can “get some skin in the game” – To quote Barry O

The moral of the story is, if you don’t have the money, you can’t spend it. And if people want to keep their beloved programs, then those need to be funded by those who find them so near and dear, not the people who are already paying more than their “fair share”.

I just find it interesting that the state can’t function in order to renew the license, yet it can somehow enforce the ban? You would think that if they can fund the enforcement, why wouldn’t they be able to fund/function the renewal? Anywho, I am interested to figure out what the facts really are.

I have a question for the Stormsuit owners out there. How waterproof is the butt area? I was looking on their website, and it doesn’t appear they put any additional material there. I have used breathable suits without rubber or additional material there and as soon as I sit on a water soaked boat cushion, it starts forcing its way through. I have the Typhoon series with the rubber and don’t have that issue. I am trying to decide what to tell my brother to get and wanted to see if that is an issue with the Storm Suit.

I should add, I checked the non-water proof “normal” 2…” deep Plano 3700 series and they weren’t quite deep enough. The water proof one is perfect. Deep enough, but not so deep that it rattles around in it. The model is 3741.

Busted sway bar link. Standard on most vehicles starting at around 40,000 miles. Seems like low mileage, but I have replaced quite a few. Can cause premature tire wear and the occasional rattle over bumps. Nothing to worry about and a 15 minute fix.

There will be 3 wires at the back of the switch a hot, a run, and a start. The hot should have voltage as long as the main battery power is turned on, the run will have voltage when the key is turned on and the start will have voltage when the key is turned all the way to start.

Check to make sure you have 12V to the hot lead on the back of the switch. Put one lead on the wire/terminal and the other on a negative post(can’t really tell you where that would be easiest found on that boat, but there is usually a negative terminal bar in/around the dash) If you have voltage there, move to the start terminal, turn the key and if have voltage there, there’s a break in the circuit somewhere between that and the starting solenoid. If there is no voltage at the starting terminal, then its a bad switchset. If you don’t even have voltage at the hot terminal of the back of the switch, then there is a break somewhere between the battery and the switch. Companies have been creative in routing through fuses, etc. so it might just be a fuse. Also, double check to make sure the switch is wired corectly. If you are off by one terminal, it won’t work.

Glad you got it figured out! Now knowing it appeared to be an “aftermarket” prop doesn’t leave me that surprised at the wide gap between the pitches. I wouldn’t be surprised if you took two 19 pitch props from the same manufacturer and saw a significant RPM difference. Some of those aftermarket prop companies don’t consider quality control(consistency) to be a top priority. As for the 0.2″, that could actually make a 1-200 rpm difference in and of itself too. in the end, all that matters is that you found the right set-up for the boat.

Just to add another option, I would look at a 6’6″ Shimano Compre ML F. I have a variety of St. Croix’s and other rods in the boat and for the $100 price range, I like the Compre over my Triumphs and Premiers. Seems to have a more sensitive tip (fishes like a XF of other brands), strong backbone, and I like the cut out handle that exposes some of the rod for extra sensitivity. I would actually say it is closer to the Avids than the Triumphs/Premiers as far as quality.

The Eyecon has certainly caught my attention though.

For my own sake, are all of the props you are trying Aluminum? Just wanted to make sure because there will be RPM/Speed differences just by switching material (SS vs. Aluminum). Are they all the same brand, model, diameter? If you start needing something in between pitches, switching number of blades will also give you those interval differences. As to why you can’t match the initial performance, that’s a head scratcher. Was there any damage to the hull, drive, or skeg that might be introducing some air into the prop path?

I ordered the Depthmaster 30L for $25 off and Compre 8’3″ M MF with a $20 rebate on the Compre. Thanks again for all the help. For those who have a Depthmaster 30 series, how much backing do I need to put on before 10 colors of 18lb test? Thanks again for all of the help.

Thanks again for the info. If I go with the Cabelas DM Gold, would it be wiser to try to cram 10 colors on a 20 series (will it even fit?) or go with the 30 series? The 30 series appears to be bigger yet then the Sealine 47. Thanks Again