Bearcat89 wrote:

Leupold RX-1400i TBR/W Gen2 Laser Rangefinder. This one is on sale at scheels. Any one use this ?
The ranger seems to be a tough find.

I have one and love it. My buddy bought one and he loves it. I couldn’t bring myself to buy a Full Draw but this one does everything I need it to. When it’s in Bow Mode I don’t believe it shows the angle, but it does all those calculations for you automatically. My buddy and I usually go to Bowfest every year (3-100 yard shots at all angles, most over 60 yds) and I didn’t lose any arrows.

Plunker wrote:

Mustang is an extremely high quality brand. What you really want in my opinion is the hydrostatic ones. They won’t pop in your compartment because it’s humid or damp.

<div class=”ido-oembed-wrap”>HIT Hydrostatic Inflatable PFD</div>

Aye, can confirm. We use the high viz hydrostatic versions at work (over $400 I believe!) And they were past the expiration, so I was curious and filled a sink with water and they all still went off. West Marine had a sale on these Hydrostatics so I picked one up for my own use.
I also use their flotation suits as a first responder and the only time I’ve had to wear one has been in training and I was sweating in the water, and it was -20°F, at night.

isu22andy wrote:

One thing no ones noted is Id try to find a model w/o a wooden transom. Not sure what year lund and crestliner and alumacraft changed the transoms to composite but I think it would be worth the extra coin to avoid the problem . Mines wood and no issues yet… but its a matter of time.

While I love the idea of that, it looks like Lund didn’t switch over until ’16 for some models, with a full switch on all other models in ’17. The only used model years I’ve seen under 30, or even 35k have been the Rebel’s, Fury’s etc. Definitely would’ve been on the wish list though.

Deuces wrote:

18′ with few fellas I’d highly recommend at least 150hp.

Fished alot of 17′ impact and fishhawk. Give me the fishhawk anyday w my style of fishing.

If you’re trolling alot cockpit space will be key, unless you have a passenger who sits up front alot.

Hop in as many boats as ya can.

Fwiw 17’s r great, buddy has a 18′ ranger that really blows those out the water. Big waters I’d look used glass

Admittedly despite building Lunds right next door to Crestliner, I don’t think I’ve ever looked at one of their boats. Never had anything against them, just don’t know much about them.

I haven’t looked nor ridden in a glass boat, any truth behind the whole “fiberglass boats take way more upkeep!” Thing I’ve come across and heard?

TH wrote:

No duct tape along. Fish were very neutral. If you blinked while holding your rod, the fish scattered.

I was on Vermillion yesterday and they were the same there.

I know this isn’t what you’re looking for, but when my buddy and I were Elk hunting, he had pre planned meals. Any time his family had leftovers (cheesy potato soup, Chinese casserole, tator tot hotdish, and lasagna was my personal favorite. There were others that I can’t think of at the moment.) Anyways, they’d take the leftovers and vacuum seal them, then after hunting we’d go back to camp, put on water to heat and dump a couple of those meals in there. Ready to eat in like 10-15 minutes. Think that’s all I’ll do for camping from now on!

If anyone is looking for the Xi 1521 transducer, (L&M fleet Supply in Virginia, MN) had quite a few last week. Not sure if they’re on the website or not.

Ion or strikemaster, pick your poison. For the record I’ll be getting a Alpha Plus 10″

I use these exclusively for everything but tip ups and rattle reels. Biggest I’ve got on them was a 23″ walleye with no issues.

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JoeMX1825 wrote:

I own an Ion G2 (why they went away from that form-factor makes no sense to me). In my opinion, weight is everything in terms of your ice gear, the lighter the better… that lightweight auger is very nice and is supposedly indestructible…

I have to say I like the look and feel of this new Alpha plus compared to the G2. From the specs it’s no heavier either and it’s got a full wraparound handle which I prefer.

Just an update, I picked up a set of the Interstate 27M-EFB batteries. I couldn’t find much on them, but picked them up from a local gas station and the owner has them in his boat and so far so good, think this is his first year with them. Generally I review the hell out of stuff, and don’t stray too far from the crowd. But once in a blue moon I’m willing to be a guinea pig!

Dogfish wrote:

I’m looking for a mechanic in the Twin Cities area that is good with vintage Mercury outboards and would love to hear any recommendations you might have!

I’m thinking it needs to be timed and have the carbs adjusted, so finding someone who actually has carb experience would be preferred.

Thanks!

Let me know who you go to as I have an ’86 (I believe).

Good to know. I’m trying to be healthier and steer clear of the brake clean type fixes…

I just switched from a minnkota and a Noco 3 bank charger and it is extremely impressive.
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Well I found a good deal on a Minnkota 3 bank/10amp. 250 shipped so I went that route

tswoboda wrote:

Just to confirm the head unit should say 24v on it, at least mine does.

For reference I have a 17′ glass tiller and have spent many 14-16 hour days musky fishing on LOTW with no battery issues. That’s with group 27 Costco variety interstates and going 0.8 – 1.2 mph all day long.

Now that you mention it and I look closer I can see where it used to say 24v, but I’m sure you can understand how I missed it initially!

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robby wrote:

That is a powerful 12 volt trolling motor! Always go the biggest batteries you can fit, so the 31s. You rational is on the right track in my opinion. I still use wet cell batteries. I normally get 5 or 6 years out of them. Some like AGMs, for the money I believe I do better with wet cell batteries. if I take care of them. If money was not an issue, I would buy the light Lithiums, but MONEY is an issue especially for that luxury. Plus not sure my onboard charger would work for them. If you do not have an onboard charger, look into it. Game changer when it comes to time and convenience.

Agreed on all accounts! I’d love to get some lithiums, but can’t justify it. I’ll need to get an on-board charger. I’d like one that can charge both batteries plus the main starting battery, just debating on going with a 5 or 10 amp…

Wildlifeguy wrote:

Just a note, I ordered the group 27 Duracell ultra AGM from Batteries+ last week, store said they were on backorder nationwide for AT LEAST another month, having a hard time keeping them in stock. Was able to buy a base level fla earlier this spring, no wait. So I guess look into what’s actually available.

Yeah I was just in their store in Blaine or SLP, can’t remember which. I’d like to get an AGM (hell I’d really like to get a pair of lithiums!) But with paying over $400 a month in gas plus every other bill being the same, money’s been tight. If I get 3-5 years out of the batteries I’ll be happy. I did note that it seemed like all their base level batteries were in stock so that’s good.
Back home now near Cook, left in a hurry so I’m going to try to get my cousins wife to pick up a pair of the batteries on her way home from work in duluth this week.

tswoboda wrote:

Powerdrive V1 65 lb trust is a 24v motor, not 12v. 27s in series will last you all day, assuming you’re not in heavy current or ripping cranks/bouncers fast.

I did the circuit board swap you’re talking about and have been using a v2 pedal and copilot for a few years with no issues. Knock on wood

That is VERY good to know, thank you! It’s been difficult to find anything on the V1’s it seems like. I’ve tried finding the manual online, but couldn’t on minnkotas website. Seems they want to forget it existed.

I’ll mainly just be pulling bottom bouncers at .8-1.0 mph, once I throw out the cranks I’ll switch to my main motor which idles at 2.2 mph I’ve found.

gimruis wrote:

The contact points on the powedrive pedals are notorious for wearing out.

That’s what I’ve read. My other idea for fixing was to replace the control board in the motor itself with the V2 version and pick up a new pedal. Figured I’d give the cheapest option a shot first and hope for the best.

Tom schmitt wrote:

I would think 2 group 27’s in parallel would get you more than 12 hrs. I believe I ran 2 in parallel and could get 3 days fishing before they stalled out.

Awesome thanks for the info! May go that route then to save a bit of cash and weight.

Should add that I’ve got a 1985 16′ Lund Pro Angler, roughly the size of the Lund Fury.

xplorer wrote:

New in box. Cloquet/Duluth area. $25

Hi, wondering if this is still available?

Has this been sold??

Bearcat89 wrote:

This is a really good deal. If some one can dink with motors, the 75 alone would sell for 2500 to 3k

That’s what I’m thinking. If the motor cranks, I can fix it. I did carpet, vinyl, floors, plumbing and electrical on my ’86 Lund so should be about the same.

PM sent

Not to brag or anything (JK, I’m bragging), I just picked up my 1521 from a pawn shop for $60 in Northern MN. I saw a helix 5 in a glass case and looked, next to it was a bag with a transom ducer and the iceducer. Offered him $60 to sell separately and he took it. So I suggest checking pawn shops lol

I know L&M in virginia, MN has numerous otter houses in stock, usually a good price on them too. A couple weeks ago a pro lodge flip was $749 on sale.

If I may highjack this thread for a minute; Who here has added a helix 5/7 or any 12v accessory really to a sled or ATV without electric start or battery? Is it possible?

Ive only sat in a clam once (forget the model but it was one of the higher end ones) but I bought an otter pro lodge. Havent been on the ice with it yet as I bought it at the end of last season and just worked too much to get out. It seems to be very well built, only thing that annoys me with it is the poles are a little sticky to extend, gotta pull on one side then the other. A little dry lube should help though. Seats are more comfortable than the clam were, don’t push you forward as much. Biggest reason I bought it though is I’m 6’2 and can stand straight up in it everywhere but the very front without my head touching. Either one should work great though.

Follow up for anyone in the future. They have a superseded part but it’s out of stock until end of December. I looked at various schematics and everything besides the later aluminum handle is the same, so I think I’m just going to order that and hope for the best.