Another pic of both halves.

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Just be a good owner and clean up the 💩 so it doesn’t pollute the lakes they get enough from other sources

Just be a good owner and clean up the 💩 so it doesn’t pollute the lakes they get enough from other sources

Just be a good owner and clean up the 💩 so it doesn’t pollute the lakes they get enough from other sources

Just be a good owner and clean up the 💩 so it doesn’t pollute the lakes they get enough from other sources

Just be a good owner and clean up the 💩 so it doesn’t pollute the lakes they get enough from other sources

All gas can have water in it and condensation in the tank is also a possibility. When I worked at a marina and rigged boats we’d always put a water separator filter on them. It goes in the gas line between the tank and motor and has a filter like an oil filter that you change out every year or two. Could save a trip especially in nasty conditions. It was one of they first things I added when I got my ‘new used’ boat with a 115 Honda. One of those things that you might never know helped you out when it did its job.

The guys at DH Custom rods told me to stay away from the tube style of rod holders and get a hardsided case. They were emphatic for noodle rods especially.

I was out on two lakes this weekend 30 mi. straight west of Rice Lake and the slush has hardened up with a pretty thick layer. There is still some water under the crust. Walking was easy with 4-6″ of snow on top. I had 5-6″ on the two smaller lakes that I fished. Bite was OK.

I usually drive around at 6 mph with a split screen depth on the left and bottom hardness on the right. It will map and save depth and bottom hardness so I can go back later and use it. When I began mapping I didn’t understand that I needed to ‘tune’ my bottom hardness. My question is can I go back and tune the bottom settings to display information that I may have gotten while mapping the lakes (without having tuned my bottom hardness settings). Can I tune them after the fact or am I SOL?

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