It’s rough bluegrass. If your lawn is too wet (this year it is) then it can spread. It doesnt like dry conditions, at least compared to normal kentucky bluegrass. I gave up removing it since it seems to choke off my other weeds and I’d rather spend time fishing than taking care of my lawn anymore. I tried pulling/shoveling it out but that didn’t remove it completely. Glyphosate might be better to eliminate it.
https://apps.extension.umn.edu/garden/diagnose/weed/grass/roughbluegrass.html
It’s probably better to read the abstract of the study than anything in Field and Stream.
https://www.neurology.org/doi/abs/10.1212/WNL.0000000000204407
Conclusions:
Clusters of sporadic CJD cases may occur in regions with CWD-confirmed deer populations, hinting at potential cross-species prion transmission. Surveillance and further research are essential to better understand this possible association.
Fudally’s Reef Hawg. Those used to be a very popular jerk bait for muskies.
Also went through Baudette, but left on the 14th. Not a single car was in line at 11am. Not a single car was in line to return on the 21st either. Noticed three cars were going to CA when we were on the way back. Normal years, Saturday traffic is bad because of changeover day at lodges. An empty crossing felt eerie.
Did the arrivecan thing ahead of time and used the 24hr walgreens ID NOW test… everyone passed without issue or scrutiny for the 6 person group. Estimated maybe 2-3 minutes more of questions than other years.
Great experience. Well above average fishing for our location. Had some locals in Minaki actually stop their car, just to ask how excited we were to be up there and welcome us.
Only other advice…don’t bring worms or dead bait this year, even if you’ve done it before. That’s a new rule change.
I have a A391, which is different than the A390 but possibly similar in concept. No matter how well I cleaned it, I could still get 3″ mag loads to occasionally fail to cycle in the field. I wound up taking the stock apart and replacing the recoil spring. Evidently after so many shots (15 years worth), the recoil spring in the stock loses compression and you start to get poor cycling. A new spring will be shorter than your old one. It might be worth checking out.
This is what I referenced when I replaced mine a few years ago:
I remember seeing it on Big Stone lake all the way up the Minnesota river somewhere between 10-20 years ago. Some years in the spring you could hardly pitch a jig 1 cast without fouling up. It seemed like after big wind churned it up then the slime just floated in the water column.
What’s the longest anyone has been stuck at the 494 access by a train? I think last night was close to an hour before we figured out the bike path can get you to hardman ave.
Both 9″ and 7″ have the same resolution. 800×600. You’d get bigger pixels I suppose, but not more clarity or definition.
I would imagine between a 73sv/93sv that they have the same guts just a different screen… but that’s speculation. I’ve used both (and the 73CV) and they seem the same speed.
It mostly is that simple. There is a ice fishing power cord you could get if you that cuts down on the amount of wire for a portable system… but its not necessary.
You will want something to mount the transducer on pole-wise… but there are a lot of easy options there. There are a few mounts that come with the LVS but no pole.
Tried to push a ways upriver through some rocky stretches. Definitely did hit stuff, but came out ok and drifted back. Caught a few fish, but mostly was in exploration and adventure mode. That hwy 6 landing is in tough shape.
I’ve got one. ’09 200hp Verado. Rides nicely for a tiller and has plenty of power. It behaves nicely while fishing in wind.
If you want your outboard to troll down to 1.2mph without bags, a big tiller isnt what you want. It is a great muskie platform, however.
My only real gripes are that i can’t take the rod tubes out and replace with a single large sleeve insert and the goofy anchor storage compartment.
I like the stability when up on the front deck casting much better than a 2090, but don’t get me wrong… those are nice too.
Older ones are not touch screen… those were the chirp models. The newer ice kit comes with a plus CV and PS22, which is touch screen.
If the keys on the side are =,-,1,2,3,4 then its a plus. If it has arrows and maybe a few other buttons, then that’s the older chirp model. The chirp kit might have been sold for 2-3 seasons?
The nice part about the plus units is you can add livescope at any point too. A 73CV plus is what I have used anyways.
You can buy the Garmin network hub and networking cables to do it.
You can also buy a really cheap (but non waterproof) network switch ($10) as the hub too. I used some Ethernet cable I had around the house and networked two echomaps this way. You’ll need something to go from 12v to 5v for a switch like this. I also bought some Garmin Ethernet cable ends for $13 to waterproof the graph side connection.
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I think there is rebate coming sometime in Feb on the livescope. 200 off if I heard right.
I got a 73CV plus on black friday for 399. I built my own box too… out of a couple 1/4″ 12×12 HDPE sheets. The whole thing is still a heavy B. You’ll want a lithium battery for sure. 18AH or better. I use the 30AH to make sure I can go awhile.
For open water, I have a vantage on my boat that rarely use to move around. That works quite nicely as a panoptix/livescope viewing tool too.
Its definitely a fun tool, but you can waste time with it too. I am surprised at times how much basin crappies move after using it. I could drill, scan, pace off the right distance, drill again, only to find they moved another 30′ away. I got frustrated after an hour of chasing and drilled a grid of holes and steered them that direction… and then caught a bunch. That’s basically what I did prior to the Garmin.
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There are replacements that will include a better side imaging option without a black box(uhd). Near as I can tell that’s the only real improvement.
I took one of those generic USB adapters off of amazon and replaced the guts with a little switching regulator from Texas Instruments (TPS54531EVM-530). Instead of 1A I get north of 5A for running panoptix which can be pretty power hungry (3A i think).
I measured a few graphs for input current at 12V. My 9″ HDS Live drew 1.5A. My 7″ gen1 HDS drew .75A. Back lighting level makes a big difference. Whether a transducer is connected or not didn’t seem to make a difference.
As an engineer, I sure care about where my vehicle gets designed. I’m certain not every component is designed in the US on a Chevy, Ford or ram, but I’m guessing it’s more than a Toyota??? The manufacturing is just one element in the supply chain.
Where did you get the 18mm OD rod? It must be low carbon steel or something like that if you had it plated?
I am guessing the rod was ground down to fit into the chuck? Or am I looking at that wrong and you fit something into 18mm tubing? I like the setup.
I have been using a Kovac, but I added an adjustable Clam adapter. It works very well but with the current ice thickness, it’s now a smidge too short.
I have a Dewalt 996 and a 6” Lazer with the ice master adapter. Ice thickness matters most for hole count, but I’ve counted 104 holes in about 10” of ice on a 5Ah battery. I got 75 holes in about 10” of ice on a 4Ah battery last weekend.
I have an older 7” and 8” lazer bit, but that definitely has more torque and will lower the hole count. Despite being an overly analytical engineer, I haven’t benchmarked those bits.
My guess is the Milwaukee drill performs similar.
It takes a while I have noticed. I think the map only gets update once or twice a week. You can click on whatever lake you’re interested in and choose “view updated map” and sometimes your more recent logs will then appear. That’s even after the dashboard says its included into the social map.
I can’t figure out why some sonar logs appear as transparent. Minnetonka has it a bunch… I have no idea what that means.
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Check out Mcmaster Carr. You can buy all kinds of raw materials there. If you have a caliper you could measure an existing one… My guess is .02″ diameter is typical for a spring bobber but that’s just roughly eyeballing it. It will only make sense if you build enough of them, however, as a 30′ roll isn’t dirt cheap ($30-$50).
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I have an older (2006?) Lakemaster chip that does something similar to my Gen2 10″. My unit would restart at unpredictable times. It works fine in the Gen1 7″, however. My newer insight chip has identical contours and works fine in the Gen2.
Make sure he gets someone that guides there full time. There are statewide guide services that put people out there with someone who hasn’t been on the ‘O’ recently. The guy I was with last year kept texting with Mark Shepard, who I think is out there a lot. Tom Mann Jr also might be good.
My guy from bassonline fished peacocks in Miami as much as anything. We caught some bass out of that Roland Martin marina, but I wasn’t overly impressed.
Look for knipex mini bolt cutters. They’re like a respectable pair of needle nose pliers. You could cut a 3/0 hook deep in a 14″ bass with them. Not a lot of force is needed. The rest of the hook comes out pretty easy with some forceps. Often times going through the gills is the gentlest way like already mentioned.
If you’re trying to remove a #6 octopus hook from a 16″ walleye… This cutting process doesn’t work as well.
I like to just cut the hook with a side cutter or knipex sort of tool. It at least makes me feel like the fish stands a fighting chance of making it.
I thought I might dig up this post I made last year. I fished the Wi river near Boscobel again this past weekend. Conditions during June 2014 were similar to June of 2015, with the river up a few feet and rising. The same methods that worked for me last year worked again this year.
I poked around a few backwater spots near where I stayed, but generally that struck out for me. I struggled to find much for bass. I found a few current seams near back/slack water areas, however, that had a good number of walleyes and saugers stacked on them. Cranks worked, but when I got sick of losing those to the wood, jigs wound up doing just as well. A 31″ pig even made its way to the boat.
Each weekend, I think I saw one other boat, which might not have even been fishing. That’s definitely a quiet stretch of river.
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I emailed the DNR SW Metro Fisheries Office. They were quite helpful and had already posted something to the DNR website implying Columnaris. Scroll down to notices and postings…
Here’s some further information:
“Columnaris disease is caused by a bacteria that is constantly present in fish populations, but does not typically cause death except during spring spawning season when fish are stressed. Most commonly observed die-offs are of crappie and sunfish populations. Symptoms of Columnaris disease are discolored patches, sloughing of scales and eroded gill filaments. The DNR recommends that diseased fish not be consumed, but healthy fish from the same lake can be safely eaten.”
Fished between Vidas and Frontier Sat-Tues. We covered a lot of water. The faster we dragged down stream, the more fish we triggered. Upstream worked too, but it generally was a little less productive. 1.0-1.4 mph most often. We went heavier, 3/8 oz or 1/2 oz, because of our speed. I did get curious to see how fast we could still get bites, stopping after catching fish at 1.8 mph. Most were 20″-24″ too. 29″ was the largest for our group, several 27″ and 28″ fish were boated. We also witnessed a 31.5″ hauled in on Tuesday.
We really tried to make pitching work, and that did get a 28″ on a blade, but mostly gave up small eyes and little pike.
Ditto on the ice chunks. We spent as much time driving in circles to clear ice out as we did fishing. It got to be too much and we hung it up.
