When I read this I thought you were confused, but after doing a little homework all I can say is cudos. Here is the link you to what you referenced.

http://www.sfdog.org/do/foxtails.pdf

When I read this I thought you were confused, but after doing a little homework all I can say is cudos. Here is the link you to what you referenced.

http://www.sfdog.org/do/foxtails.pdf

This is an example where I noticed the difference between 480p and 1080i upconvert. We were watching “Night at the Museum”. There were close ups of Ben Stiller where the eyebrows were fuzzy running 480p. The eyebrows were much more defined after upconverting with the player.

That player comes with a 1 meter hdmi cable. If you need longer ones check out ( http://www.monoprice.com ). As far as that goes, any video cables including Wii or audio wiring.

FYI, this is what my upconvert is:
http://www.amazon.com/Philips-DVP5960-Player-Upscaling-direct/dp/B000G18DR0/ref=pd_bbs_1/104-0500986-4633508?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1187926372&sr=8-1

Ya, avsforum is pretty impressive.

I went through this same dilema in May since the Blue Ray vs. HD-DVD war hasn’t been settled. Couldn’t justify spending $300 or more on a player when a year or two later it would be $100.

I have a 1080i Phillips upconvert using HDMI that I am pretty happy with. I believe Target carries those. What I have noticed is that my upconvert player does a better job than my Panasonic plasma’s ability to upconvert. That is not the “rule” for all TVs, but it is what I have noticed for my combination.

If I sent a 480p signal to my TV and let my TV upconvert my picture was worse (fuzzy in transition areas) than when I sent an upconverted 1080i. I may have had something setup wrong, but I think I had it covered. Good luck.

Thanks for the report VikeFan. Hope to be out next week either at PC or Macbride. Just out of curiosity, were you in the North or South Arm.

Too bad you just can’t winch it down into your boat when your ready to go.

Looks good.

Not meaning to pick on anybody, but for clarification “parallel” and “serial” are better terms and commonly in when describing battery connections. Other than that info was right on.

Parallel = (+ to +) and (- to -) (12V)
Serial = (+ to -) (24V)

Vikefan,

I probably would have been speechless too if somebody would have told me that. Here are a couple more links on the issue.

http://www.americanrivers.org/site/DocServer/Iowa_River_MER_2007.pdf?docID=5803
http://www.americanrivers.org/site/PageServer?pagename=AR7_MER2007

The way somebody described it to me is “one bank for each battery, regardless of whether they are hook in parallel or serial”. Basically, whether you have 2 batteries in a 12V configuration or 2 in a 24V configuration, use a 2 bank charger. Like stated above, use a 3 bank if you want to charge your starter battery and can figure out how to route the cables.

Looks like a good thing to have for those people who insist on crowding in .
How far do you think could it shoot when it’s glued shut and full of egg sinkers?

Quote:

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After Icejohn lipped it coming out the hole he said we should release it and try again, I put a stop to that and told him that we reached our limit and we were not going to do it again.

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I have a Plano Airliner which holds rods up to 7.5′. The Plano Jumbo Airliner holds rods up to 8.5′ rods. Decent case, but it can really stress you out putting it together. I’m always afraid I am going to break something. I did manage to break a cheap rod tip once with it.

The handle on the airliner sucks, but the jumbo airliner has wheels. I used a couple of nylon ties and a strap from an extra piece of luggage to make a shoulder strap.

If I was to do it again knowing what I know, I would probably get the Plano Deluxe Hard Rod Case, which accomodates rods up to 106″, for about the same price as the Airliner. A very simple looking case. From the pictures, it looks like there is a single end cap instead of pushing the two long pieces together too close and breaking the tip. I did a quick search on BassPro, so I’m sure there are other options. Good luck.

Anybody want to buy an airliner case???

With a subject like this you guys had me excited. I was thinking feline and my imagination was starting to run wild.

Thanks for the report VikeFan. Just out of curiousity, which boat ramp do you consider the main boat ramp??? Not trying to pick on you, just curious.

A lunch cooler with a hole drilled in the top/side with an aquarium check valve glued in. I can go home and hook it up to an aerator to get a few more days of life out of the minnows.

Keeps the minnows cool in the summer too with a little ice.

In SW MN, Worthington has a very large, growing, and diversified practice. PM me if you want more info.

Follow this link to the manual for a X2. Right click and “save target as” to save onto your computer. For some reason Winchester doesn’t want you to just click to open.

http://www.winchesterguns.com/prodinfo/om/index.asp

According to the manual it is reversible. Then again, if it is a new gun didn’t a manual come with it .

http://secure.armorholdings.com/b-square/taurus.html

I think b-square has one that uses the existing rear sight pins. Call and ask I guess. Sorry I’m not more help.

http://secure.armorholdings.com/b-square/taurus.html

I think b-square has one that uses the existing rear sight pins. Call and ask I guess. Sorry I’m not more help.

Rat poison!!!!

From snipercountry.com via google.

Freebore – (aka ‘barrel throat’) The distance a bullet must travel between chamber and bore before its bearing surfaces contact the lands of the rifling, the purpose being to delay resistance, hence prolong pressure built-up. It cannot be too much, however, as that can cause instability in the bullet. This distance will vary from rifle to rifle, as well as according to the preference of the handloader, as some prefer the bullet to touch the lands, while others prefer it to be further away. Care must be taken not to make this distance too great, as this will adversely affect accuracy. It is not advisable to have the bullet touch the lands, either, as that can increase pressure levels significantly.

From snipercountry.com via google.

Freebore – (aka ‘barrel throat’) The distance a bullet must travel between chamber and bore before its bearing surfaces contact the lands of the rifling, the purpose being to delay resistance, hence prolong pressure built-up. It cannot be too much, however, as that can cause instability in the bullet. This distance will vary from rifle to rifle, as well as according to the preference of the handloader, as some prefer the bullet to touch the lands, while others prefer it to be further away. Care must be taken not to make this distance too great, as this will adversely affect accuracy. It is not advisable to have the bullet touch the lands, either, as that can increase pressure levels significantly.

I can’t remember if I registered, but I guess I am now.

I’ve switched from feathers to vanes a few years back because of the durability. All of my broadhead hunting arrows are vaned with NAP Quickspins. Kind of pricey, but I think they stabilize the arrow much better than normal vanes.

I went to a shoot drop away rest because of the vane contact. Once I did that w/the Quickspins I can keep them grouped REALLY tight.

I’ve switched from feathers to vanes a few years back because of the durability. All of my broadhead hunting arrows are vaned with NAP Quickspins. Kind of pricey, but I think they stabilize the arrow much better than normal vanes.

I went to a shoot drop away rest because of the vane contact. Once I did that w/the Quickspins I can keep them grouped REALLY tight.

Me too please.

Thx to all the sponsors.

I received this e-mail pretty much verbatim. I think this one is legit since it was addressed to my e-bay username.

Tijuana is the Mexican border town. Never been there, but everbody I know says it is pretty scurvy. The later the night goes, the worse it gets. One word of advice from a friend that lives in SD if you go to TJs, bring small bills. It is common to not give the correct change for a $20 from bars. Stack your wallet with $5 and $1, leave the $20 at home.

Not sure where I saw it, but I read somewhere at least 12″ of ground clearance while trailering. Can’t remember where. Yamaha recommends in the manual to”

“The motor should be trailed and stored in the normal running position. If there is insufficient road clearance in this position, then trailer the motor in the tilt position using a motor support device such as a transom saver”.

I only had about 5″ of clearance, so I ended up finding a roller type transom saver that hugs the rounded bracket of my roller trailer. I cut some rubber hose and lined the roller side curve to cushion. Good Luck