Hey Rumriverrunner

Yes I have a 22 1794 Tundra Hybrid.

So far so good, 0 issues with 25k miles on it right now.
The hybrid has 437 hp and 583 torque. She definitely pulls the 2060 Skeeter much better/easier than the 15 Ram 1500 I came from.
MPG summer empty is around 22, towing the 2060 13 ish. Same as the Ram 1500

Tech and creature comforts in the truck are great, load leveling air bags are nice, ability to drop/raise the rear from in the cab when hooking up a trailer is nice.
I can switch drive modes on the fly and in Sport 2 she’s quick

Dislikes:
I didn’t get tow mirrors – wish I would have
Front seat isn’t as comfortable as the Ram
Some button locations drive me bonkers – heated steering wheel/backup sensors
Backup sensors still beep towing/hooking up even if you turn them off
Hybrid – battery is under the back seat – lost a lot of storage space, so I put swing box in the storage bed.

Overall very happy with the truck so far.
I do change oil every 5k at the dealer, might be overkill, but I’d like to drive this one 10+ years. I do say that with every truck and around year 8 they seem to get traded haha

If you have any questions let me know.

Jami

Take a look at Duluth Trading – I have a set of their Stormwalls and I like it for the price point.

Thanks for the heads up Jon!

That a boy Kirk!

Their dry on the fly pants and shorts are in my daily summer time rotation.
Firehose pants fall/spring
Firehose fleece lined in the winter – feels like wearing pajama pants while moving snow

Solid mount to dash or Stabil mount
https://www.stabilmount.com/shop

I also have tabs and a ladder. The Boat Center from Chip installed it. Picture

Attachments:

1. 

   2016skeeter-scaled.jpg
   

Give Fox Gutter a call

I had them installed with the gutter guard.
Professional company/sale/install

They look great and work even better

https://www.fox-guard.com/

Grouse,

I have read, reread, read again and copied your reply into a word doc so I can print it and read it 10 more times and follow it!

I now understand the words that are coming out of your fingers and it makes sense. Thank you for taking the time to spell out it for me.

I’ll be back with updates and I’m sure more questions

Thank you,

Jami

Thanks for all the info fellas!

2-4d/trimec I am familiar with and use, so I can pick more of that up at the elevator when I pick up seed/fertilizer/chemicals.

Consensus is to NOT mow the standing weeds and left over crop from last year as all that would do is spread the water hemp seed further which is where the corn and pumpkins are from last year.

So what do I do with those?
I can’t do a control burn myself, way to chicken that it will get away from me.

Do I spray with roundup/2-4 d a couple of times and put corn in no till? The planter is an old john deere 2 row 3 point and the soil is pretty sandy, I don’t think I’d have any issues getting the seed deep enough.

Or do I do a cover crop like a clover or alfalfa for a couple years to smother the water hemp out?

The 3rd chunk is currently left over beats/radishes that has no water hemp in it.

Here is what I’m thinking, please offer in thoughts:

Early May:
In the 3rd chunk I’ll spray roundup and 2-4d and kill off the beats/radishes from last year.
Let that sit a weekish
Shallow till that and broadcast fertilizer and soybeans and drag those in

Early June I’ll spray with roundup and 2-4d again
Spray that one maybe two more times before crop is too tall

Again, thank you everyone for your input!

Stabil Mount – Bill Shimota
Website – https://www.stabilmount.com/
Facebook – https://www.facebook.com/StabilMount

Thanks Dutchboy, I’m always here reading, and offer help when I can

Short answer is down the drivers side gunwale into the bilge area.

Start by taking the main engine throttle assembly loose from the boat and pulling it inside of the boat. There are like 8-10 screws and then you’re going to have to wiggle the throttle assembly out to allow room for your hand in that space.

I use skinny fiberglass wire push rods (link below) to thread through the space. Put 2 of those together, and tape them together. If you don’t tape them together and one comes apart, there will be some working words.

Tape your wire(s) to the rod and crawl under the dash with a good light. Below the dash you will see the main wire harness come through the gunwale. Fish the rod through that hole. Now sit on the seat and stick your right hand in the throttle assembly hole and continue to feed/wiggle the fish rod with your left. Once you find it slowly start pushing/pulling the rods and wire through. The new wire will want to get hung up under the dash where the main harness is.

From the throttle back there will be space above the storage locker to feed through.

Once you get through the back of the storage locker, remove the jump seat storage bin, another 8-10 screws and you are in the bilge area.

Dean Marshall wrote:

A short piece of a ringworm added has been known to produce…..
Buck n Rubber !

Hey Dean wasn’t that a bait shop secret hahaha

Otter Express Trailer

I’ve had the super express for 15 plus years and it still looks and functions like new.

Concrete, firewood, dirt, mulch whatever. Toss it in, tilt the trailer and dump it.

https://www.otteroutdoors.com/product-category/trailers/

Seeing that you live in Redwing.
Give Foxguard Gutter a look.
I’ve used them twice with 0 complaints
Local company that does professional work and stands behind their products

https://www.fox-guard.com/

25 lb Richter Anchor, 4 foot of chain and a 100 foot of rope

Hey Grouse, I bought Simpson MegaShot MS31025HT 3100 PSI 2.5 GPM Gas Pressure Washer Powered by HONDA from Fleet Farm this spring. So far its working great, have a lot of hours on it this summer. After reading reviews, seeing it had a honda. It starts and runs like a Honda.

Ice Cap wrote:

I don’t know yet what kind of a boat will be tied to the dock or if that is even a consideration when buying a dock but I don’t think I want to go bigger than a 22′ pontoon

Yea you need to take what you’ll be tying to the dock into consideration. Floe dock sections “float” meaning they use a quick connect system where the sections aren’t bolted riggedly together. If you tie up a 22 foot pontoon and it gets rough out the wave action will cause the boat to buck, and the dock to buck and bend/fallout/smash.

If you put the pontoon on a lift, issue mitigated.

Page 8. https://www.floeintl.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/610-83002-00-Roll-In-Docks.pdf

What/how big of a lake are you on?

What brands of dock are carried by the dealers near you? In case you need a part/have an issue one can quickly run to the dealer instead of ruining a weekend/week waiting for a part to arrive, or having to drive hours to get one

Looking at your criteria and doing a quick read of Solo dock, installation doesn’t sound fun “Installation is simple — install two aluminum posts with footpads on one end of the 6 foot section, carry or wheel the section to the end of the dock, stand the section on end, align the full length aluminum hinges, and simply tip it into the lake.”

FishBlood&RiverMud wrote:

Thought it appropriate to make a video Saturday of how i prepare my Sheepshead cut bait for flathead catfish.

I’ll use anything from 8″ up to 18″ sheepshead on 8/0 circle hooks.

<div class=”ido-oembed-wrap”><iframe title=”Sheepshead cut bait for Flathead catfish” width=”850″ height=”478″ src=”https://www.youtube.com/embed/XX6bg4jbxds?feature=oembed&#8221; frameborder=”0″ allow=”accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture” allowfullscreen=””></iframe></div>
There is no bait too big for flatheads. When using Cut bait, I find size matters.

Thank you, and I do have to compliment you on the music selection. Flatties and Beastie Boys go well together!!!

Howard, I had the same situation as you.
Wave Pro pedestals and carpet in the boat.
I took a piece of plywood and slid it under the carpet from the pedestal to the side of the boat, using a straightedge and sharp utility knife I cut a slit in carpet.

I was going to bring the carpet to an upholstery shop and have that seem sewed.
After 2 years there is no fraying and one couldn’t tell its cut unless I pointed it out.

To keep water coming in from the intake side make sure to measure the intake hole size first and order the correct size of this type of plug
https://www.amazon.com/attwood-Livewell-Bailer-Plugs-Snap-Handle/dp/B003EWT10G

Remove the corresponding filter dome on the back of the boat, there will be two, one for the front/rear livewell, put the plug in.

You are going to have to cut the filter dome with a utility knife a bit to get the cover back on as the plug handle extends deeper than the filter dome. You just have to relief cut a couple of the straight supports and the filter dome will go back on as normal

Attachments:

1. 

   filter-dome.png
   

JoeMX1825 wrote:

I added a simple $20 step to my trailer, it works great and doesn’t ever get in the way…

Joe, another freebie u can do is slide your spare tire up and use it as a step. I did that on my 1825 works great and it’s free.
With the boat on the trailer, slide the tire up as far as u can while still clearing the side of the boat.

Its not going to replace a 3 or 4 step setup if that’s what one needs\wants.

Attachments:

1. 

   mx1825.png
   

Looking forward to it!

Dean Marshall wrote:

Budget, expectations and opinions do matter. I would suggest that for years several folks did and still do fish these waters in aluminum hulls. So, if you expect the MX to multi task on big water and small waters alike, a great option as compared to a premium aluminum 18 ft hull.

If expecting it to be equal to a deep v 19 or 20 ft glass boat, you will probably not have your expectations met.

As Mr Ritter indicated, he successfully made the mx1825 work just fine in big water, but didn’t expect premium 20 ft glass performance.

If the MX 1825 is your boat and your budget allows, adding a set of trim tabs to it and it will greatly improve the boat in the big water. I was very transom heavy with the 200/kicker/livewell without trim tabs I couldn’t set the bow/boat accordingly.

They were on my list to add, then a beauty of a wx2060 showed up and it fit my fishing/family needs. And I’m loving and enjoying that boat.

Really liking the black covers under all of the doors.

Can’t wait for a ride and drive

Picture

Attachments:

1. 

   wx2200.png
   

I had an MX 1825 for five years 200 hpdi/kicker.

I loved the boat. Initially I primarily fished the river with occasional trips to Mille/big waters. That boat on the river was amazing. Big water it was good, just had to slow down (Right Dean!! :))

If you were going to use the mx 1825 on the big waters a couple trips a year it does fine. If you primarily fish the big waters, a WX would fit your needs much better.

I now run a WX2060 as I split time between the river and spend most of the summer on Mille Lacs.

For more budget friendly a wx1910 might fit the bill?

If it were me
1. Lay it forward when not in use. Mount may get in the way of the livewell door opening fully.

2. Lay it back when not in use

3. Lay it back when not in use. 3 may or may not work if you mount you trim tab switches there.

There is plenty of room to mount the radio under the drivers console and attach the mic where you’d like it

Then again, i just use a handheld.

Attachments:

1. 

   2190.png
   

CBMN wrote:

I have done all of my recent vehicle loans thru Bob Bowman with Wings in Minnetonka. IDO member but don’t know that he is on very often recently. Very knowledgeable and easy to work with. No need to drive to Minnetonka either I have done all my transactions thru other branches closer to home. Feel free to shoot me a PM if you want contact info. Rates are usually as good as I could find anywhere.

Another Bob Bowman Wings Financial supporter here!