In my experience, best action is away from the lights and away from people. I don’t know who started the lights attract smelt idea, but it doesn’t work here. Just before dark we get about 60 minutes of fast and furious action then it slows down for the rest of the night. Unfortunately, most people seem to show up right when the fishing is hot and start punching holes…
There was a post about cost of filling saying it was the same as a 20 lb tank, an that’s not true, it’s half of what a 20 lb is cuz your getting half the propane…duh! Filled my 10 lb tank last week and paid 8.43. A 1lb bottle is damn near 6 bucks so do the math, runs longer and cheaper once you break even on investment
This is variable. South Park Welding where I filled in Michigan years ago a 10lb was about half the cost of a 20.
Range CO/OP where I fill now a 20 is $18 and a 10 is $16. I’ve checked othere locally and found similar.
Not certain on hose material, to my knowledge they both get stiff in very cold weather.
One hose has an OPD fitting connected straight to the hose and the other end connects to a filter and then into the port where a 1lb bottle fits in. Pressure is regulated internal of the heater.
The better hose in my opinion has a pressure regulator attached between the OPD fitting and the hose. The appliance end of the hose has a female quick connect. This attaches to the male quick connect located in the left side bottle compartment.
So after a quick search, at Mendards, 11lb. propane tank is $50. 20lb. is about $26. ???
They sell many more 20s than 10s. That’s why they are cheaper.
Cost is usually almost the same to fill a 20 as they charge for a 10. Really you are paying mostly for the labor, the propane itself is only a couple bucks.
Unless you are humping it and weight becomes more of an issue, the 20 makes the most sense.
Get a regulated hose and run off a 20lb tank. 100lbs would be cheaper yet but totally unrealistic.
Since you have a camera, check for burrow holes. Will look similar to night crawler holes in a lawn after a rain storm.
The muddy has to be of a specific consistency and organic matter content. Too hard and they can’t burrow, too soft and they suffocate. This mud tends to be ‘sticky’ you can feel it with a depth finder weight on a sensitive rod. Say the lake in question the weeds grow to a depth of 15′ and the main basin drops to 25′. Look for an edge with a steepish drop from say 10′-25′. This edge will grow weeds at the knuckle and on the upper portion of the slope. The dead weed detritus will tend to sluff to the bottom of the slope. The detritus tends to form the muck that burrowing mayflies prefer, may fly heaven. The bottom of this slope happens to coincide with the main lake basin the perch prefer to run around in. Sounds like the best of both worlds to me.
The base oil plays an important role in two stroke oils, ‘it’s just a carrier for additives’ is plain wrong. A manufacturer picks a base oil close to what the final product needs then formulates an additive package to get the final desired properties. The base oil provides the elasto-hydrodynamic wedge that is the very basis of rolling element bearing function. With out a base oil of proper viscosity it doesnt matter how much additive you throw at it. The bearing won’t function properly. If anything could be described as ‘just a carrier’ in two stroke it would be the solvents used to help cold flow. They actually hurt lubricity and use is minimized by selection of synthetics base stocks such as PAOs.
I run Sabre at 32:1. I burn more mixed gas in one week than most augers will see in 10 years. Runs great, tear downs look good. Saws and auger start right up. Yeah its way heavier than is probably needed. Keep in mind the 50:1 is an EPA initiative, not the manufactures suggesting it to increase engine life…
Long time lurker, first time poster.
This is kind of one of those ‘it depends’ questions. Do you intend to use it only during normal winter or during cold snaps when any sane person would be at home in front of the wood stove?
A garden variety conventional EP2 like lucas red and tacky will work okay most of the time. It will definitely stay in the journal. It might become an issue in deep cold where the grease becomes so viscous movement is significantly slowed or even impeded. I’ve seen it happen up here, particularly with that specific lucas product. It has lots of tackifer and has a high dropping point. It is more of a high temp high pressure grease.
My suggestion would be a synthetic NLGI 1 (SHC221) or even a 00 (SHC007) for winter use. The 00 will run out like water in the summer though. Most of the major companies make a suitable grease, I am just most familiar with ExxonMobil.
If you want to mess with your buddy, pump one side of his fish house with SHC1000 Special. It won’t pivot again until August…
