Thanks guys,
I don’t have a reserve tank, just single built in. I found a leak in the bulb I was pumping with. I did get a new prime bulb and put it further down line (low near gas can filling) and it worked for siphoning (as I type it’s siphoning).

The fuel coming out is pretty yellow/orange in color (more than normal). I really should have done this earlier. I hope to be able to pump/siphon most out today and put some fresh fuel in and see if it will bog down and go into protect mode as it has been. I’m also going to replace the fuel line from the boat tank to the motor while I’m enjoying this project.

I know this is really old but I’m trying to drain my fuel again and won’t siphon from the tank outlet in the splash well. I’m using a fuel line/pump bulb from our 10hp outboard. The bulb does not seem to pump any fuel from the tank after 20-30 pumps gave up. Is there a better/safer way to pump the fuel?

As I recall in 2013 I had to keep pumping a bulb from the 10hp fuel line and it did not siphon just had to keep pumping (hose all down hill to tank below boat hull. That took forever. Now here I am again and can’t even get the bulb to pump the fuel.

Are there any safe/electric fuel pumps I could use?

My 2006 Merc 115 4-stroke had a vac line that runs right through the fuel pump sump. It had cracked and eventually broke and sucked so much fuel into the bottom cylinders that it hyrdo-locked the motor. I thought it was a bad starter since it cracked the starter mount aluminum. Replaced that still wouldn’t turn over. Tried turning over with a ratchet on the flywheel locked. So now I thought I seized the motor. Luckily I found an obscure posting that discussed the hydro locking and being caused by a fractured vac line that runs right through the fuel in the fuel pump. When the hose fractures (btw it happens slowly)it sucks the fuel into the lower cylinders. Now imagine this happening slowly over time and that fuel diluting your oil (making oil). So I pulled my fuel pump and openned it up and sure enought the hose which for some reason runs right through the fuel in the fuel pump had completely ruptured. Next, I pulled the spark plugs and sure enough raw fuel ran out of the bottom 2 cylinders(which would suck the most fuel in based on the air intake feeding those more via gravity. I turned the motor again with the ratchet and shot fuel about 10ft out of the bottom cylinders. Next I changed the oil which was diluted and you could smell gas. I called Mercury and asked about this issue and they said a new replacement line was available (of course they would charge me for it) that was resistant to ethanol (clearly a design defect). I bought the boat/motor used and it was out of warranty, but of course Mercury was not help fixing their serious design flaw. I then happened to notice the air filter had completely deteriorated and of course a completely different metal replacing the original foam was available for about $40 (to fix Mercury’s other design flaw) in this motor.

So now 6 years later and after changing oil often to make sure the oil was oil and not diluted by gas I’ve been able to enjoy the motor. Other than this issue, (which would have cost thousands I’m sure at a dealer to fix) works correctly. My point for this “making oil” thread is that you may want to be aware that there is a vacuum hose running through many of the fuel pump housings that was a design defect and as it deteriorates could be adding fuel to your oil. Luckily my motor runs great and shows no sign of damage. I can hit 45mph still in a 17ft Lund and the motor stars and runs very quiet and smooth.

I’d be careful and I think you are. Any way to get that cup holder out (never pulled one likely glued in) then you could shine a flashlight in there to inspect.

I know with my luck I’d shoot a screw through the speedo tube, or a wire that would break when out on the lake. Even the sharp end of a screw could cause latent damage and never at the right time. Otherwise, can you get one of those USB LED lit cable cameras for a laptop or phone and fish that in there in the cup drain hole (enlarge a little), or from any other grommet that may lead wires through that area.

Best of luck

As mentioned, I would go to a Lund Dealer. I have found parts to be available for reasonable prices with the exception of the track system mounts and accessories (very pricey).

Man, that is one nice looking Lund, Congrats!

Thanks for getting back this could be useful for many!

I have a 2006 Lund Explorer Sport w/115 Merc 4-stroke and use it for inland lake fishing and some family cruising tubing swimming etc. and it’s the perfect boat for our “crossover” needs. The windshield is great for family protection and the fold down swim platform works great for tubing, swimming, etc.. I personally prefer the aluminum boats especially in a colder deep freeze climates. I’ve had glass boats and glass durability was an issue as they get on in age.

I’m sure the newer Lunds are even nicer than my 2006, but I’m super happy with the comfort of the air ride seats, and swap butt seats for fishing. I have the extended windshield top cover and that works great for keeping the weather out and even some sun shade. I think you’d be really happy with the Lund crossovers. Unless you are a tournament fisherman or close, I find the Lund crossovers lean towards the fishing side and crossover well when needed. My wife loves the comfort for cruising inland lake chains, and 4-stroke is nice and quite, which is fine for me also.

Resale is also unbelievable on Aluminum Lunds I see boats like mine selling nearby for what I paid for mine 4 years ago.

Let us know what you go with! Good Luck.

You could go either way and not go wrong. I have a 2006 115 4-Stroke Merc on a Explorer 1700 and love it. It’s quiet and no smoke. I have a family so this boat is a fishing boat, inland lake cruiser, and tube puller. My wife loves the quiet and not having the smoke blow back. You do have to change the oil, but once it’s done I’m good for a season of light to medium usage.

That said, my friend is a bass pro and had a 115 2 stroke and now a 150. It’s louder, but not much smoke, especially compared to our previous 72 50hp Johnson. I’m sure EFI has really helped clean up emissions. He did blow his 115 but most folks I know have great longevity and performance on both the 2 strokes and 4 strokes.

I wouldn’t say one’s better than the other unless you value the quiet of the 4 or the little power edge of the 2. Go for what makes the best sense for your needs. I have a 4 stroke snowmobile and a 2 stroke and both have their advantages in pretty much the same way, but the 4 stroke is heavier.

I can see the potential of environmental laws changing to not favor 2 strokes in the future, but who knows on that. I would think you’d be grandfathered, but you never know. Just sayin.

I’m not sure if you mean a “butt” seat. I ordered 2 Cabelas butt seats gray/white with the springfield pedestals which matched my other seat pedastals. perfect quality and I like it even better that the Lund Butt seats. Check “search all Craigslist” maybe you can find a used Lund.

Good luck and good fishing………

Does your new cover snap on the rails or? My 2006 1700 Explorer has slideable snaps on the rails and has the Lund Cover. Works perfect for long distance towing. It does have fixed snaps near the bow and stern, but sliding on the port/stern sides. The original cover is very high quality IMHO. Not sure when the side slides start/end. Great boating times 2U & all.

Yes, try rebuilding yourself if handy with upholstery removal/re-install. Another possibility is to check craigslist for seats. Use one of the search all craigslist search tools.

Best of luck, let us know if you do a rebuild. Pics?

Thanks for all the replies. I’m going to try the fuel line disconnect ideas this weekend. Otherwise, has anyone tied just siphoning from the fuel fill? Please be respectful to each other. We are all learning in one way or another. And we have Lund boat inerests in common.

Thanks! Reb

My bad, it’s a 06 Merc 115 4 stroke. I always used the pump/fuel line idea mentioned, but this motor has just a fuel line from the tank with no disconnect like my old OBs. I do have a pretty decent fuel siphon if that will work in the fuel fill. Sorry forgot the motor info.

Reb

New to us this year, 2006 Lund Explorer 1700 w/Merc 115 4-Stroke (30hrs). Moved up from a 1972 Lund 14ft Center console, 55hp Johnson 50th anniv, which server us great for many years. Loved the 72, but not looking back after enjoying the new Lund. Great boats!

What pump/pumps did you use? OEM? Did you have a LUND Dealer do the install or?

Thanks,

Reb

Thanks again for the replies,

There is one switch for the 2 live wells. The middle position is off. The top position is labeled “Aerator Automatic” and the bottom position is labeled “manual”. I was able to hook a hose up to the rear intake on the stern (removing the intake screen) and use the manual mode to pump water from the intake to fill both live wells. The fill was controlled by the “white nozzle in each live well which when turned in decreased the inlet water flow and can shut off if all the way in. It seemed that once the pump was clear and clean that it increased the fill pressure over what the hose was delivering. When I put the switch to the “Aerator Automatic” position nothing happened.

Since each live well has 2 overflow drains, and on inlet from the intake pump, and one lower drain plug, I assume then that the “automatic Aerator” mode is a timed (on occasionally) mode that brings in fresh water and overflows the tank draining some of the “less fresh” water.

Would that be correct?

OK, I got it working. I cleaned out the bilge and the live well pump is very easy to remove and check with just a unlock and twist. It goes back in easy too, with a twist and click that locks it. Pump (it is a separate pump from the bilge pump in the 06). I pulled off the screen and hooked the hose up to it at a very low pressure level and it filled both tanks easily. Granted, the real test will be in the water since even at low pressure on the hose, that’s doing some pumping. At first the pump did not seem to be working well, so I disassembled it and it seemed to go back in better/straighter than it came out. So it may have been put together crooked. Anyway, it seems fine now and moves lots of water. I’ll post back when I put it back in the water in the next few weeks. Thanks for all the suggestions. BTW it is a a single pump that fills both front and rear live well tanks. I used it in manual mode to check it’s function. I’m still not really sure what auto mode is. Does it have a timer that recirculates water every so often. Any info on that would be appreciated. I did not get documentation that describes these things with the boat.

Thanks! Reb

Thanks for all the responses/advice. The boat will be out of the water for a while so I’ll have to do any further checking on the trailer. I did check the intake screen on the stern and it is clean and clear as is the intake with the screen removed. So that part is OK. I did not realize the “white plug” did not have to be removed, I take it that’s a valve then and can be adjusted for allowing water in from the pump. Please advise. I had not tried reverse when the boat was in the water and the boat had been out of the water for a year or 2 so may need to be primed. It’s raining pretty good today so I’ll hold off until later today when it stops and try hooking a hose up to the intake and see if that will prime pump.

I should note also, this was our first extended use of the boat (2006 Lund Explorer 1700). We put the OEM Lund Bimini top up and it was great for shade cover and a spot out of the few brief showers we had while fishing. My wife really enjoyed being on the boat and did some fishing in comfort landing a few largemouths. I pulled my 11 year old son on a tube for a bit and the 115 4 stroke easily pulled him. With a full tank of gas and 3 of us and gear (live wells not full unfortunately) the boat did exactly 40gps (41 on the speedo). Very smooth ride on the only rough day we had with 20mph winds. Very happy with the boat for fishing & family.

Thanks for posting the root cause, what did the dealer do to fix the problem?