If human caused climate change is real and as bad as they claim it to be, why is it that all of the proposed ” fixes ” do almost nothing to actually fix it ?
So far all the ” fixes ” do nothing but give governments much more money and power.

I bought a Suzuki 15 efi tiller last spring. My only complaint is that the friction lock on the throttle wasn’t strong enough to keep it from slowing down. I likely could have fixed it but instead I added an I-Troll with hunt mode. I am very happy with both and would buy both again with the exception of I would maybe get the remote model instead of a tiller.

I remember a study on throat/gut hooked Musky mortality.
They put radio tracking devises in throat or gut hooked muskies and found that ALL of them died. A few lived 8 months or so but that was it. So, I believe that mortality rates are even worse than what they find in short term studies.
For that reason I am very careful to avoid deep hooking any fish and if I do I keep them to eat, if legal.

robby wrote:

Time to replace my truck. Its nickel and dimeing me. I need something more reliable. So Im looking into replacing it. Not sure I need a truck anymore, maybe an suv. Question is how much does my boat, motor, trailer weighs. 18 1/2 foot Skeeter bass fiber glass rig and 150 hp Merc 2 stroke, been moded but that didnt add signicant weight. Plus single axel stèel trailer. Im guessing about 3500lbs. Any others guess? Want to know so I can shop for another tow vehicle. Gotta think power and braking power. Thanks All!

3500 Lbs. will be pretty close.
I would get a vehicle rated at at least 5000 lbs. towing.

munchy wrote:

Are these Price Is Right rules?

I’ll say 3,317.43 pounds!

Does whoever guesses closest, without going over, win the boat ?

fishinfreaks wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>pale ryder wrote:</div>

Are you saying that steps 4,5, and 6 are incorrect ?

C. Unloading Procedure:
Follow these steps:
1. Check traffic in both directions.
2. Activate the pre-amber warning lights. (100 feet under 35 mph and 300 feet over 35mph).
3. Slow gradually and stop in the roadway.
4. Check traffic from all directions to make sure it is able to stop.
5. Open the service door just a crack to turn on the alternately flashing red lights and activate stop arm.
6. Make sure that all oncoming traffic has stopped before opening the door fully.

I’d like to see where you got that from. That’s not how bus companies train their driver in their manuals or classes.

I copied it from post #1818126 above.
It seems sensible to me.

fishinfreaks wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>pale ryder wrote:</div>
If the details in the OP are correct, the bus driver made the greater error. He should not have opened the door while being passed. Even if the driver passing him is breaking the law.
It is not clear to me what happened when the red lights came on.

This is 100% incorrect. It is the bus drivers job to open the door and engage the stop sign and lights immediately upon stopping regardless of where other vehicles are. It is the duty of the vehicles around the school bus to be aware that the bus’s warning lights are on and that the bus is coming to a stop, thereby anticipating the stop sign and lights immediately when the bus comes to a complete stop. And don’t try the argument of “how is someone supposed to know when the bus is coming to a complete stop?”. That is completely ignorant and careless.

For the safety of the students, the driver then waits to signal the students to load once it is safe to do so.

Those are 2 completely separate actions at a bus stop.

Are you saying that steps 4,5, and 6 are incorrect ?

C. Unloading Procedure:
Follow these steps:
1. Check traffic in both directions.
2. Activate the pre-amber warning lights. (100 feet under 35 mph and 300 feet over 35mph).
3. Slow gradually and stop in the roadway.
4. Check traffic from all directions to make sure it is able to stop.
5. Open the service door just a crack to turn on the alternately flashing red lights and activate stop arm.
6. Make sure that all oncoming traffic has stopped before opening the door fully.

munchy wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>tbro16 wrote:</div>
I’m not going to sit here and advocate for people swerving around yellow lights on a bus, but this is copied from the MN state manual for bus drivers. Steps number 5 and 6 are key here. Clearly the bus driver didn’t get the flashing red lights on by slightly cracking the door, then checking to make sure surrounding traffic has all stopped before opening the door wide, allowing kids to get off the bus. He didn’t follow proper protocol. Based off the info in the OP, it sounds like the bus driver just opened the door (which automatically turns on the flashing red lights) without looking around to make sure its safe first.

C. Unloading Procedure:
Follow these steps:
1. Check traffic in both directions.
2. Activate the pre-amber warning lights. (100 feet under 35 mph and 300 feet over 35mph).
3. Slow gradually and stop in the roadway.
4. Check traffic from all directions to make sure it is able to stop.
5. Open the service door just a crack to turn on the alternately flashing red lights and activate stop arm.
6. Make sure that all oncoming traffic has stopped before opening the door fully.

I’m sure I don’t have all the information, but from whats been provided, I think its on the bus driver. Don’t mean to get everyones panties in a bunch over this, just stating what the book says.

How do you now the driver didn’t just crack the door? Were you there?

Even if he did just crack the door, it seems that the bus driver ignored step 4.

If the details in the OP are correct, the bus driver made the greater error. He should not have opened the door while being passed. Even if the driver passing him is breaking the law.
It is not clear to me what happened when the red lights came on.
Did the driver in the OP stop immediately ?
If so I don’t see how he broke any law.
If he did not stop immediately he did break the law.
If he was going to fast to stop immediately, he broke the law.

Scott Estes wrote:

I just bought an MX 1825 with a f200. The guy has a Bravo 1 20p 4 blade prop on it. When we text drove the boat it was real sluggish out of the hole with the 3 of us in it (no gear), no mid range, and top speed of 54 mph on smooth water. I’m looking for a prop that’ll give me a better hole shot and mid-range. From what I’ve read on here I’m thinking a Reliance 17, 18, 19. Not quite sure though. Top speed is not an issue. Boat is rigged with Kicker. Anyone have one of these props for sale? Anyone want to trade?

I have a 19″ pitch Reliance SDS in near perfect condition that I will sell you.
Where do you live ?

I will add an update.
I lifted the motor up one hole to the top position.
The boat now feels even lighter, steering is easier, I can trim up more at low speeds without porpoising.
Top speed went up to 46 mph at 5950 rpm trimmed all the way out.
No loss of water pressure.
The boat stays flatter in sharp turns and I could not get the prop to lose grip.

I haven’t tried it yet in any real waves but so far I am very happy with the new prop and set up.

mxskeeter wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>pale ryder wrote:</div>
I mounted a kicker on it.
I am now getting a top speed of 46.5 mph at 5550 rpm. With a 13-3/4 dia 19 pitch Reliance. That is with the lightest load I will ever have and the hole shot is not very good.
I am going to Canada in two weeks and want a lower pitch prop by then because I will have a heavier load.
So, the question is Would a 14-1/4 dia 17 pitch Reliance be too low ?

I still think a 4 blade would work well due to added stern lift, but I don’t know which one or size to try.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Kinda surprised at this. I carry big load and can hit 47.7 and 5900 with the stock 19 reliance prop. That is 2 guys, gear, full fuel, and a kicker. Naturally you need to trim down when you back off to stop porpoising.

I have a kicker, 12′ Talon and a 36 volt Terrova, so 4 batteries, and a LOT of fishing gear.

Gregk9 wrote:

What’d ya end up going with?

A 17″ pitch Mercury Rev-4.
I wrote a review.
Here is a C+P.

I recently added a kicker and the extra weight made me want a different prop.
The 3 blade 13-3/4 diameter 19 pitch Reliance SDS gave a poor hole shot but top speed was 47 at 5600 rpms.
After much deliberation I decided on a 14-5/8 diameter 17 pitch Rev 4 with a Flo-torque IV hub.
Hole shot is much better and the highest speed I have seen so far is 45 at 5850 rpms.
There is a little more clunk when shifting but not bad. I did not notice any prop chatter.
The ride of the boat changed to a flatter ride. more stern lift and less bow lift. The result seems to be a softer ride.
Handling is very good, but was not bad before.
I an able to trim up all the way without problems But prefer the ride at about 3/4 at wide open. Less speed I use less trim.
Gas mileage fell a little from 4.8 to 4.4. But I that could be due more to wind than the prop.

The boat tends to porpoise if I trim up much at lower planning speeds in waves, so I think I am going yo move the motor up one hole to the max height.
Overall I am happy with the Rev 4.

I’m pretty sure you will drain batteries faster back trolling than going forward at the same speed. Due to the increased resistance.

That said, what you need depends on how fast you want to go and for how long.

I mounted a kicker on it.
I am now getting a top speed of 46.5 mph at 5550 rpm. With a 13-3/4 dia 19 pitch Reliance. That is with the lightest load I will ever have and the hole shot is not very good.
I am going to Canada in two weeks and want a lower pitch prop by then because I will have a heavier load.
So, the question is Would a 14-1/4 dia 17 pitch Reliance be too low ?

I still think a 4 blade would work well due to added stern lift, but I don’t know which one or size to try.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I don’t know much about ski pylons but I am pretty sure the motor, when tilted up, will hit a center mounted seat post.

As to the transducers. I have run several at the same time, all 200khz, without problems. However I have heard from others that they did get interference.
So, the only way to know for sure is to try it.

Michael C. Winther wrote:

Why not through-bolt it?
[/quote

I might.
But I kind of like the ability to easily remove it.

Thank You all.

I’m thinking of mounting it like mxskeeter’s is.

Should I put something between the kicker and the back of the transom, to protect the transom ?

I missposted.
It will be going on the port side.

Thanks for the replies.
I’m going to decide on the kicker first.

Odd that no one has ever tried a 4 blade on an MX1825.

On my MX1825 the accessory wires were behind a 4″ access cover under the console.

X3 on the Stowmaster.
I have had a TS108 for over 10 years.
Very well made and easy to stow.

chasing50s wrote:

For those of you noting you have a MX or WX (pale ryder, stonyeye, Michael W), do you mind checking what make and model plug is installed on your trolling motor and noting it in a reply?

I believe I’ll pull the trigger on the plug that originally came with it.

Josh

Mine is either the 305P or the 305BP.
The boat is in storage, buy I am sure it is one of those two.
They are the same except the 305BP is listed as corrosion resistant.

I have a 36 volt Terrova on my MX1825 Skeeter and I have been using the same receptacle that you have. L5-30R. I haven’t had any issues at all. It never even gets warm.
I’m not an electrician but from what I remember from school Watts are what matter most. A wire or plug rated at 30 amps @ 125 volts would be okay with 15 amps @ 250 volts or 60 amps @ 62.5 volts.
Watts = volts x amps. 125 volts @ 30 amps = 3750 watts. 36 volts @ 52 amps = 1872 watts.

I was there. Had a great time.
Thanks to Dean and all the employees !

I have had great success with the power knot. Doesn’t slip or cut itself with braid mono or fluorocarbon.

Attachments:

1. 

   powerknot.jpg
   

I’ll be there again.
It’s always been worth the drive there.
The hard part is not buying a new boat.

Michael C. Winther wrote:

I tested out a new configuration of my stock Reliance prop.
– slower getting on plane
– top speed of 35mph
– noticeable vibration

Be sure to check the prop shaft. I may well be bent.

One of the first things I did for my MX1825 was replace the stock winch with a 2 speed winch.
I did the same for my last boat, a Ranger 618T, and I would for any bunk trailer.

I also made some guide ons for the trailer. They make loading easier at bad ramps and make it much easier to see the empty trailer for backing up.

bullcans wrote:

What do you guys use for taking scuffs out of a fiberglass boat?
Primarily have it on the bow area when I run it up on the roller.

Are you sure it is scuffed gel coat ?
My last two glass boats looked scuffed from the bow roller but it was really material from the roller sticking to the boat. So it was a matter of cleaning the roller plastic off the gel coat. I used a standard hull cleaner.