Good Will for golf clubs – Still makes the best handles! Drill out the scoop from the POS handles and pop rivet to the club handle.

For ICAST 2025 The new Racine County ice fishing space maker series dueling pistols

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walleyesforme wrote:

I’m not sure how things work with tags and what not but how is it that friends of mine can go on a rifle Colorado elk hunt every year? These are guided hunts and they have almost a 100% success rate. Just curious.

Over the counter tags and in Colorado, landowners can sell their private landowner tags

buckybadger wrote:

If this would have NOT listed the location of the event….Racine would’ve still probably been one of my top guess. I’ve been there probably 15 times in my life, and that was about 15 too many.

I grew up there and was out on south pier when the first load of rock was dumped during the ceremony to create the new marina. Ironically the absolute best places to icefish are nowhere near the spot where this happened at.

I would like to see it split for Private & state land Vs National forest and price the tags accordingly. I get having a resident tilt of the scale towards hunting on state owned land and of coarse private. But BLM programs and National Forest is all of our tax money at work – not just local.

Units 2 & 10 in just a couple years creeped from 21 to 31 pnts. I’m back up to about 14 on elk. I will never in my lifetime draw the species/units I want. Sad part is if I do a 1st rifle or muzzle in most of the other units I go to, I’ll burn 14 for what I could have done with 6

Had 11 deer walk through the yard yesterday evening before dark. 2 looked like bucks from body shape. No antlers and too far to see testicles. I’m a whimp, if it’s too cold for squirrels to be out, too cold for me these days

Jimmy Jones wrote:

Pomegranates

Just watched a podcast about Mitochondria, which Pomegranates are good for. Problem is if you consume enough to make a traceable difference, you’ll have diabetes from all the sugar. Then the majority of people I read on one of the UW reports said side effects was irritable bowels. Just can’t win with eating healthy

More than the average person??

Elk, Pepsi, cottage fries

I’m getting lazy in my old age. Years ago I went and chased them down. Now, heck with it, they can come to me.

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If it’s solely the recoil, then the 7-08. It runs about 20% less recoil. If a midwest whitetail & recoil, 7-08.
Personally for me, If i were looking for speed goats/muley, I would rather have an extra 1# on the rifle and go 270. Its not a huge difference, but the 270 out performs the 7-08 when comparing the 300-500yrd ballistics. (very typical shot on prongs).

This is something many don’t look at, but I find interesting as I set up a lot of rifles for guys/kids. Most people will never “dial” up a shot. However many optic companies have MIL or MOA hold-over/under in the objective. MOA is more common and I find better suited for most. When I develop a load for a rifle and then run the calculators on it, quite often they fall on the arc similar to the MOA marks. Not always perfect, but close. As an example, my daughter’s Browning Abolt with 130 gr Barnes TSX topped with a Burris Veracity 5-25 is zero’d for 220 yrds. POI is just a bit over 1-1/2 high at 100 yrds. The first elevation mark of 1/2 MOA has POI = 325 yrds, first full MOA = 400 and second MOA mark is = 500…Top of post = 715yrds. I emphasise ISH on these as they don’t match 100% perfect, but more like 95-97%. I taught my girls for hunting to plink steel. I have a plate that is 6″ wide by 9″ tall – smaller than the lungs of any target species. So when I drop them on a spot and call a distance of say 435 yrds, they know their POI is 1/3 the distance of elevation between their 400 and 500 mark. With that, they place 100% of their shots in the steel. Ya, they may be 1-2″ above or below dead center, but no questioning they would blow the lungs out of their target. Elk lungs are almost 24″ tall and my girls are taught to place every shot in the center 8ish inches of that mass. Since they are 100% kill rate on their shots, I roll with it

deertracker wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>Riverrat wrote:</div>
I’ve never heard of a “wet” scope mount. Do you like spit on it and slap it twice before tightening the screws or what?

I’m guessing by “wet” they mean loctite was used? I believe they say not to use loctite on rings. Needs to be torqued though.
DT

Torques listed are for dry screws. Need to be very careful when using lictite because the torque changes

from the BP website:
Stay out doing what you love longer with the powerful and reliable Duracell Ultra 20HL-BS AGM powersport battery for your motorcycle, ATV, personal watercraft and more!
Delivers a powerful 310 cold cranking amps, ensuring reliable engine starts on every attempt no matter the weather.
The AGM design offers exceptional resistance to vibration and the ability to withstand a wide range of temperatures, making it ideal for extended outdoor adventures.
Ready to ride right out of the box. No electrolyte to fill. Just install your new battery and hit the road, trail or waves.
Duracell’s advanced AGM design is 100% spill-proof and maintenance free to prevent electrolyte leakage and reduce corrosion buildup.
Comes with a 24 Month Free Replacement Limited Warranty.
I would demand a replacement

glenn57 wrote:

so an update……..i brought the gun to the gunshop…..think its called guns and more near FF in waite park, right by slumberland in a little mall.

they replaced the Vortex scope with a new one. no charge. they charged me 40 bucks to mount it and bore sight it.

when he was done he brought the scope he took off and showed me 2 wet spots on the scope where the scope is mounted to the rings. he said thats supposed to be dry mounted. he also said the rings and the ring screws were not torked to the right lbs, so he did that also. he feels whenever i shot with those things in play the scope moved!!! guess we shall see……..

Seen that a few times.

Brad Dimond wrote:

Counter height and five foot high power outlets. The higher outlets allow you to keep cords up and out of your way.

Also, wall mounted J-hooks allow you to coil long cords and hang excess out of the way. Keep eight inch hook & loop straps in a drawer, great for keeping coiled cords together. (I was a data network engineer and project manager, love cable management stuff).

No doubt the higher outlets help keep things dry, just remember if your using any “standard” kitchen appliances, you’re often limited to a 2 foot cord

I’ve built quite a few custom garage kitchens over the years. Hardest part is getting past perception of how you’ll use it and reality. Reality is your limitted when you build for specific needs. Try to visualize what would make life easier by changing everything you hate about what you have now.
For me, its time constraints. So I have my pole barn set up to be as universal as possible and the easiest/fastest clean up. Uses change, might be deboning meat that was shot up and a ton of blood, or cutting finished steaks/roasts. Might be an assembly line butchering three elk or cleaning a half dozen walleyes, or grinding meat. Regardless, I have plastic cutting boards that fit my counter and I start with worst mess closest to sink.

I did learn quickly to power it like a real kitchen. Extension cords suck donkey balls when water/wet surfaces are involved. I have GFI quads and multi circuits so that no matter where I want the sealer, electric knife, grinder, sharpeners…..all have a place convenient to plug in.

lights & cabinets- don’t cut yourself short on lighting and storage. Early on for myself, I found that all my butchering supplies now have a home and EVERYTHING is there. No hunting around looking for crap. Its there, well lit, and ready to roll.

BTW, if your having upper cabinets made, ditch the idea of “standard” depth cabinets. I have a custom builder that is about the same price as buying box cabinets with a few upgrades. My standard kitchen wall cabinets are 14″ interior depth. For garage/shop I recommend 16″ depth. Additionally, chain store box cabinets are usually rated for about 50# of storage. the cabinets I have made far exceed that. Makes for superior storage of all the tools and supplies

Mountain lakes in Colorado . Mesa, Granby,…

Johnny wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>CaptainMusky wrote:</div>
That foam rope I think is an excellent idea. You can find it in all sorts of diameters. I use it to seal up window A/C units because it will pinch down to get through a tight area then expand to fill the void. I really like that idea Randy gave. Probably buy multiple sizes to get the right fit.

I like it as well. Randy – Would you try to cut it in half so its more of a semicircle shape and then it could be flush with the face of the tile? The part I’m having a hard time visualizing is how to caulk it if the full circle of foam rope is installed and you essentially have a half circle protruding from the wall that you have to caulk over.

I always have 1/4″, 1/2, and 1″ in my trailer. cut it as needed to whatever shape.

1 question though. did they lap the backer board over the tub/shower flange? If not, you’ll have long term water issues

1/2-3/4″ is too large of a bead for TEC. Tuck in 1/4″ foam rope and then caulk. Would be good to lay in a thin back bead and let it set, then top coat over it.

From the pic, it looks like the surfaces are moving independently. if so, you will always get a crack near the top or bottom from the two surfaces moving.

Congrats Jon

Caught a blurb in the news about the increase of these incidents with vehicles as weapons globally is on the rise. Seems like throughout Europe, this is happening frequently. Maybe they didn’t pass a background check for an assault rifle:???: Turning the news on today sure is a hell of a slap of reality. Was fortunate to have a couple days completely isolated from the world for a buddy’s wedding New Years Eve in a small town. The wedding party got together and hung out for a couple days. Did a pheasant hunt, dinner, hung out at hotel,…. The world sure is a different place with all the news turned off. Just sad that people are compelled to engage in these acts of violence against innocent people just trying to enjoy life

I have a couple machines ran to very high milage/hours and as stated above, 12K in miles is a lot. If it has minimal idle time, and averages 8-12 mph on the trail, the engine has about 1200-1500 hours on it. That definitely comes into question the maintenance, oil type/weight and so on. Not saying you won’t get 2500 hours out of that engine, but it is at that point where how it was maintained will begin to show. Much like a lawn tractor with 1000 hours on it.

given the age, I would expect to replace all the suspension shocks/bushing part and axels as I have in my articats (2008 & 2010). Can easily spend $900-1500 in parts

I did a quick google search and came up with asking prices of $3-4K for that machine. at an average of $3,500. I would look at it as a $2,000 machine to buy if I was to buy it and do the parts myself. If all the suspension parts have been recently upgraded, the 2500 price tag is fair

Liberty safes are my preference. buy much larger than what they say they are.

As you start shopping, keep in mind what all attributes you want – difficulty to break in to, fire rating….

Best wishes to all!

and remember “you cant show that commercial….that looks like the Manson Family Christmas Special”

JEREMY wrote:

That was kinda weird looking your lunch in the eyeballs.

LMAO When we had cattle at my farm, my dad gave them all cute names. One year it was cartoon characters, next year was brands of tractors. Then I walked by calling them as I saw them – “Hey Tbone, Hi chuck, Mr Porter,….

We had a neighbor that bought/butchered a calf every year. First year, he caught me a little by surprise. We walked out in the small pasture and he picked out which one he wanted. In a blink of an eye he pulled out his 45 and capped it in the head. Always appreciated his purchasing style

Skeeter, I feel your pain. On the business side, I’ve built a lot of homes with people that had W/F. Somewhere, seems that they grew into an entity with no common sense. No clue how they stay in business. Last place on earth I would apply for a loan from

Power/torque of a diesel is a given. What do you want for longevity of your drivetrain 250K miles or 500K+ I made the jump to diesel in 2001 and never looked back. I drive my trucks until they are rusted away. my ’01 duramax was just under 600K miles when I sold it, My ’03 Durmax was nearing 500 when I sold it. I ran into a great deal on my current Dodge and for the $$$ I accept it. It is definitely not the ride of a GMC. But at 240K miles, its going strong. So I look at how many gassers would I have gone through in the same period.

My towing uses vary, but enclosed trailer, car hauler (open) , a 30′ enclosed hauler, camper, and bass boat. I frequently drive between my house and farm (about 120 miles each way). Then add in all the typical needs of a pick up.

Maintenance is always a topic of cost, which isn’t cheap. I change oil every 9K miles. I run Rotella in spring through fall and flush run synthetic in coldest part of winter. 3 gallon Rottela box is about $45 and I run K&N filter at about 17-20 each. Fuel filter every other oil change at 70ish. I grease each oil change and a tube at $10 last a few changes. Brakes and some parts cost more. many parts are comparable in cost.

Torque to the rear wheels. If you want tires to last, you buy E load highway, have some weight in the rear, and keep your foot off the accelerator. Taking off from a dead stop will chirp the tires easily. Not like drag racing but just a little chirp. You have more torque so taking off with no load can easily give you a little slip. that will decrease tire life if your always hammering it.

Here right now by my farm, gas is about 2.77 and diesel is 3.07.-3.18. I use a fuel app an get about .03-.06 off per gallon. Since 2007 the reformulated diesel sucks donkey balls. Additionally, try to stay away for the “bio-blends”. I keep a bottle of additive in the truck just in case I get trapped filling up in Iowa. My 01 by far was the best on milage with pre-reformulated crap. But all that aside, I range about 22-14 per gallon pending load and hills/mountains. Sure is funny crossing a mountain pass and passing guys pulling a camper. Half way up the grade they are starving for air/power. I just steadily cruise by them.

Winter hassles also get kicked around a lot. I plug my heater core in when its going to be below zero. I have an outdoor GFI outlet on the side of my garage so no big deal to plug it in before going to bed. Unplug and fire up in the morning. I let it warm up for 5-10 minutes before I leave. For me its no big deal. Twice I bought fuel that was falsely advertised as winter blend and it gelled. Each was during a artic blast and near 20 below. 1 time was a major PITA and waited the 4 or so days to warm up. The other was a bottle of 911 and open the rail and pump out the crap until fuel flowed and back in business.

Only you can decide what is best for you. For me, its more than twice the longevity of the drive train and the power when I need it. Especially when gas engines are tweaked to get all the power they can out of a smaller engine.

If you do go diesel, will need to relearn the engine / road noise Vs speed. Very different sound when your doing over 70-75 mph at barely 2000 rpms

Received a check from a customer that banked at W/F. Even though it was a wells Fargo account and their customer wrote the check, they were going to charge me $5.00 to cash it if done in person. If I deposit to my bank and they do the electronic transfer to my account in 3-5 business day – N/C. HHHHmmm???? Just told them if that how they treat people even though its on one of their accounts, I would never do business with them again – and I havent.

I don’t care about size vs weight. I modify my molds strictly for hook size specifically for the plastic I use. I’ve narrowed down plastics a lot in the last 10 years so I make less difference in sizes.

Take the dive, Randy!!

Sure, and most definitely if I can spend your money