I have been having the same problem with my Helix 10.Have you found a fix for the the problem yet with yours?
Not yet Dave. Had some things come up and haven’t been able to try a software update yet but that is the next step. Which software version are you using?
Maybe the older 2d ducer has a compatibility or performance issues with the newer chirp unit?
I’ve always erred with having my SI ducer tail slightly tilted down and have always had solid imaging and can run at 40mph without losing bottom.
Tipped up at the tail will give you the least probability of catching enough of a return signal to hold a display.
The old transducer is compatible with the new helix unit. I did confirm that. I think the problem is the current software on the Helix needs to be updated and hopefully that fixes it.
I can try tipping the transducer down if the software update doesnt fix the issues. I guess I figured that you would want the transducer to be level with the lake bottom for the best return but i suppose having it tipped slightly downward would shoot the signal forward some. Not sure if it is possible to “outrun” the return signal and shooting it forward a bit helps prevent that.
In reality it probably is tilted forward a little bit when the boat is at full speed since the bow sits even higher at full throttle than it does when idling around at 3-5 mph (transducer was leveled at a speed of 3-5 mph).
The “tilt” of the transducer is all relative to boat positioning so I guess what one guy calls tilted forward might not be the same for another guy unless their boats are sitting on the trailer at the same angle.
I have another question for everyone running MEGA SI. I am only getting about 55-60 feet or so of range on the mega setting before the bottom starts to darken quickly. I know the water and other factors may prevent you from getting the full 125 foot range on each side, but does it sound normal that i was only able to get less than 1/2 the advertised range in relatively clear, shallow water? Or when Humminbird says 125 feet on “either side” of your boat, does that mean the TOTAL range is 125 feet so if you’re running it on both sides, you’ll only get about 60 feet per side?
<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>pfunk wrote:</div>
What sensitivity numbers are typical for the SI view? Everything i read says the default of 10 is pretty close and a range of 8-12 is pretty much good to cover most all situations, however i seem to be using quite a bit lower at times. First lake was murkier and on the mega frequency i was around that 8-12 range but when switching to 455 would have to back it down even lower. On the second lake with cleaner water, i had the 455 set to negative sensitivity values to keep from making the image white hot and the mega to 3 or 4. This was especially apparent in shallow water / hard bottom, which brings me to my next question…Range should be a higher value: Like 20-200′ I run mine at 80′ most of the time when searching for fish and sometimes higher when looking for bottom structure like a rock pile. I almost always have my contrast set at 14. I adjust the sensitivity depending on how fast i’m going and how deep it is. Mega SI doesn’t work speeds higher than about 10MPH. I get my best readings at 2-5 MPH.
<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>pfunk wrote:</div>
It would be super beneficial to show transition lines of bottom composition but I am not sure how much to believe whether it truly is a bottom change or just shallower water? I did see some scattered rubble in places but definitely not everywhereTypically if it’s a shallow water reef or structure it’s going to be hard bottom. Off the edges of these structures you will find the transition line. It’s quite easy to spot and is typically not a huge depth change. It’s usually only a foot or two difference where the bottom changes from hard to mud / soft.
With all that being said, you do need to change the sensitivity in correlation with the depth and speed at which you are traveling at.
As far as your old transducer not reading on your new unit at high speeds but working just fine on your old unit, that’s kind of a head scratcher. Are you sure that it’s actually pulling signal from that transducer? Did you unhook the mega imaging transducer and only hook up the 2d transducer to be sure?
This is helpful. I am indeed talking about shallow water structure. Like you said the transition line was very abrupt and very easy to see. I wanted to know for sure what i was seeing was due to a bottom composition change and not just the unit’s sensitivity being set too high as the depth became shallower. I can see this being incredibly helpful for locating bottom composition changes. It’s so obvious on SI.
As far as the transducer, it is definitely getting signal. The entire head unit was moved and transducer cable of the MEGA transducer was unplugged. On the old transducer it would read depth just fine, but again at speed it would lose signal just like on the SI transducer. I do believe this is a software issue now though after seeing 2d sonar issues listed as a fix in the latest software update.
Do you have a little downward tilt at the rear of the transducer as it is needed when running at speed.
Where you mounted your transducer is there anything on the hull that can produce turbulent water strakes rivets a step etc.
Actually there is a slight upward tilt at the rear of the transducer. This is because the bow of the boat sits higher than the stern and we compensated for this to make sure the transducer would be level to the lake bottom.
We made sure to level the transducer after first jacking the tongue of the trailer up to get the boat to sit like it does on the water. This was done by finding the level point on the water and then recreating it at home on the trailer. The transducer was then mounted level to the ground which is what results in the slight upward tilt at the rear of the transducer when you lower it back down at the tongue. Hope this makes sense.
#1 is the older ducer lower in the water in relation to the hull than the new one?
I mounted my SI ducer almost flush with the bottom of my hull. I don’t get high speed readings because it’s not far enough in the water while on plane. This was intentional so that it can’t get knocked off from hitting something.
The older transducer is a touch lower in the water than the SI one. SI is mounted with the center seam on the transducer even with the bottom of the hull. But regardless, the new Helix unit doesn’t keep a bottom signal on either the MEGA transducer OR the old one which is mounted lower. An older Humminbird unit has no problems keeping the bottom signal when hooked up to the old transducer. So the problem must be in the head unit and after digging some more it looks like the latest software update addresses some 2D sonar issues so we are going to give the update a try.
@pfunk are you sure the old transducer is compatible? I needed to use a second ‘speed’ transducer with a Y connection on a recently installed Helix 9 SI. The side imagining transducer does not work well at speed.
Yeah it is definitely compatible. The transducer works fine when hooked up to the new Helix and moving slowly, it just loses the bottom reading when the throttle is wide open.
I have always done my own. But that being said sometimes it’s better to have someone with expertise to do the install. Look at you tube for pointers there is a lot that can be learned there.
My Dad and I just installed this same unit on his older aluminum boat. Working really slick when idling but cannot get it to hold bottom past 12-15 mph. Thinking it is a head unit issue though, since the head unit cant keep the bottom signal even when connected to an old humminbird transducer that was already on the boat. The old unit has no issues with keeping the bottom signal so it must be something with the helix 7 head unit.
Just make sure you get the boat in the water and use a level and some coins to find where the “level” point is when you are in the water going 3-5 mph. Then go home and jack it up at the tongue with the level and the same stack of change until you get the bubble between the lines. Then mount your transducer level and parallel to the ground. The back side of the transducer will end up higher than the leading side.
I don’t know if this is correct or not, but for what its worth i dont think so. Without networking i dont know how you would get the signal to both units at the same time.
I asked Humminbird just the other day if they make a splitter cable for transducers and was told no. I did not want to use two units on one transducer, but rather wanted to get the signal sent to the bow and at the tiller so a single head unit could just be unplugged and moved back and forth.
Cabelas still has the Helix 9 SI G2N for $999. This is a great buy for a nice size screen. This comes in very handy when splitting the screen 2 or 3 ways.
Once you have SI you’ll never go without. <strong class=”ido-tag-strong”>Walleye fishing in particular, you want to find those fish before you target them. Working/viewing the weedines from the side rather than being right on top – you can cover so much more subsurface area with SI over DI or sonar.
I agree with this. For fishing walleye, I can see it being very useful to search without having to run over th fish. My dad just got a Helix 7 Mega SI G3 and we spent some hours on the water yesterday and today. Side imaging is definitely a huge plus. We are still getting used to it and are beginners, but we were easily able to find some fish of multiple species.
Found and caught some crappies and bluegills that the 2d sonar had no problem finding, but the DI really helped confirm to us they were fish as opposed to weeds since they were so tightly schooled and DI really breaks them apart and shows more individual returns. Then the side imaging helped us relocate schools as they roamed.
After that, we searched some more typical spring walleye areas and were able to locate a couple pods of what were almost certainly walleye. They looked very different from the crappie/bluegill schools. We also got a picture in a deeper water area of a large lone fish close to the bottom but far enough off to give away a tell tale shadow that was even shaped like a fish. If it wasnt for the shadow, it would have been easy to miss over the hard bottom.
Needless to say, as beginners I am quite certain the unit will prove itself very useful once we have more hours on it to know how to really dial it in. I wouldnt trade the DI or the SI at this point since they both proved to be useful, but if i had to choose only one it would be the SI.
You’re right muskie-tim. I got through to HB and they confirmed it has ice mode as long as the software is up to date. Thanks!
Thanks for the help folks. I was just able to get through to Humminbird and they confirmed there is ice fishing mode on this model as long as the software is up to date. So arcticm1000, I think you’re right. The other unit must have had an updated software version.
If it were the CHIRP ice ducer I might take you up on it. I still have an XI 9 20 transducer from my ICE 385ci which is probably the same one you have.
That issue sounds like either a faulty transducer or your settings arent right. You may have to play with sensitivity and noise reduction. The settings can vary quite a bit depending on depth and water clarity.
I actually did the same thing you are considering doing and purchased the 385ci for an all around 4 season unit. I purchased the 385ci ICE and then purchased the open water transducer, power cord, and boat mount later all on Ebay. I was able to get a good deal on mine as it was the end of ice fishing season and people were gearing up for the open water. I too was very used to using vexilars and every other kind of flasher for ice fishing up until I bought this unit. I can tell you now I would not think to spend 400-500 dollars for a vexilar when you can get this unit for cheaper (got mine for $370). I actually prefer to watch the graph as opposed to the flasher as it gives you a bit of history so you don’t have to constantly stare at it and worry about missing something that quickly slips through the water column. I never thought I would prefer the graph over the flasher but it is really nice. I was also a bit worried about the 20/60 degree cones being too wide to pick up tiny jigs in deep water but that is not the case. It easily picks up a jig and will also pick up beads or bobber stops on your line. It is also much nicer to have than a vexilar when it comes to open water fishing. The GPS built in is very nice, especially if you don’t already have one. I find the gps to be very beneficial for open water fishing as you can duplicate trolling passes, quickly throw waypoints on interesting structure, and avoid hazards by always following a path you know is safe. The ONE thing I wish was improved was a better reading while traveling high speed on open water. It tends to lose bottom if it gets over 40 feet and you are wide open on the throttle. Not a huge deal for me but to some it may be. Also, if you have the Lakemaster chip it does tend to struggle to keep up with you if you are moving at high speeds. there is a lot of data on that card and the processor in the 385ci isn’t as nice as some of the upper end models as far as the refresh rate goes. Overall I am VERY satisfied with it and have zero reason to consider buying a vexilar. 
Well I guess he was out again tonight and brought the tools with to make adjustments while on the water. Tried changing the angles up and still can’t get the thing to work right. Might have to give H’Bird a call once and see what they say. Do they have reps check these forums from time to time?
Tom… I wonder if you might know my old man. I see your son is Clint and races at Arlington. My dad’s name is Kirby Perlich and he raced IMCA mod’s in the late 80’s and early 90’s. I swear I have heard him talk about Clint before, and he always seems to be pulling for him when we get a chance to head out to the track. I’m excited to see a few races this summer.
