Another advantage of the 75HP is for about $600 (two parts – Silencer Assy.$95, ECU $515) you can convert the 75HP to a 90 HP.

I had the same problem of the wheel not pivoting easily. I purchased a 8in. Polyethylene Ball Bearing Swivel Caster from Northern Tool, cut off the old,welded on the new, works great.

I have a 2011 1790T and it has (had) the same problem. I fixed the problem by adding a second drain. There is an area in the back just below the factory drain that is about 2” square and ¼” to ½” deeper the rest of the livewell. I assume this is where the drain should have been had there been enough room below the livewell. I purchased a ½” 90 degree aquarium bulkhead fitting. You need to drill a 1 1/8” hole in the livewell (used a 90 degree drill). There is just enough room under the livewell for this to fit. With a little twisting and stretching I was able to reach and tighten it in place. I ran some flex tubing to a tee in the main line and presto no more water in the livewell when it drains. To top it off I added some LED livewell light at the same time.

Jesse,
You are going to love that boat. I have a 2011 1790Tand it’s been a great ride. Don’t know what prop came with your boat. Mine came with a Yamaha 16p SS and it was not a good match for this boat. With it getting on plane with just myself it was just OK with two or three it was a real struggle. Top speed with the SS alone in the boat was 37MPH (GPS). I switched to a Mercury 4 blade Spitfire 15P and it became a new boat. Getting on plane is no longer a problem and top speed only drop 1-2 MPH.

I would but can’t find a 3-5 mile ship to shore power cord yet.

I made it from plywood and used golf tubes. Works for my walleye rods. For larger trolling rods I use the two side pockets on the 1790T

Thanks for the input. Know it’s just a waiting game as to when the boat arrives.

Thanks Eric, that works for me. Do you know if the trolling motor end is also included? I’m just trying to get as much in line as possible before the boat arrives.