Any “wet” grease will attract dirt/dust/sand and be problematic. Use a dry lubricant. WD40-Dry Lube or White Lithium.

A coworker put Carmex on the underside of my desk, when I grabbed the desk to scoot into position my hands found it. I stepped it up a notch and taped a couple thumb tacks under his desk… It was all fun and games, but he stopped playing tricks on me after that.

Office humor, we plugged a wireless mouse into a coworkers computer. Then gave it a jiggle every once in awhile. We started with subtle movement, then increased the jiggle as time goes on. For two weeks he started complaining about his mouse going crazy. IT got involved (we gave them the heads up) and they played it off like he was the crazy one. Eventually he found the usb dongle in the back of his computer.

Another one, we had an individual that would look at the letters and finger peck the keyboard to type. We swapped the letters around on his keyboard. He quickly became frustrated and stormed out of the room. He ran to IT and got a new keyboard.

They are for killing the bacteria/germs on the surfaces of the coil and drain pan vs treating the air bypassing. It doesn’t hurt to add it, but a good yearly cleaning would probably do the same and be better. Anything upstream of the coil won’t be touched.

ThunderLund78 wrote:

Whether I bleed the fish or not, after rinsing the fillets I always put my fillets in a bowl of heavily iced water and let sit in the fridge for a few hours to overnight before cooking.

I was always taught to do this. Plus dissolve salt into the ice water prior to putting the fillets in.

Also check to make sure you are selecting the correct transducer that you have in the settings.

Classic. Don’t forget about Sh.t on a Shingle as well!

Cooling rack seems like a great concept. I just use paper towels, but do not stack the fish. Otherwise the oil will just drip onto the fish below it and they get soggy. My go to breading is whatever is in the cupboard. Ritz, club, pretzels, Doritos anything I can smash into fine crumbs. It keeps things interesting for the family.

Migz wrote:

I have the same problem and 4-5 years ago I bought a couple tubes of PL-400 construction adhesive and laid a thick 3/4” bead to created a water dam. It creates a big lake of water that I can squeegee out after my truck metals off. The 3rd stall no longer has water running into it under the boat. This was my cheap fix till I can have the cement redon

Same. But I use a can of spray foam. When the season is done, a sharp putty knife to remove it.

We are evolving and technology is our future, like it or not. Eventually it will be illegal to grab the steering wheel on the interstate and highways. Then roads won’t exist and it will be a Skyway. Haven’t you guys seen the Jetsons?

They are not sealed, no drip troughs, and do not provide dry storage. The live wells do have a bulb seal, the one in the front could be turned into dry storage. T-Pro offers a dry storage option in the bow, just one compartment though.

I put orders in for Scheels, Cabela’s and Gander and waited it out. Cabela’s ended up winning, which took about a month. Then I canceled the other orders. You may get lucky and find one in stock, but it’s a roll of the dice. I am guessing there is a ton of back orders already placed, so they never hit the shelves.

buckybadger wrote:

We are through Verizon. Do they run any deals ever or what makes the most logical sense? I

Watch for deals at Best Buy or Target. My last phone purchased at Target came with a $100 gift card. Phone was priced the same between Best Buy, Target, and Verizon. No hassle. Like others mentioned, make sure you have everything backed up in the cloud. You won’t get your apps downloaded switching to to an I-Phone but photos and contacts should come in (Make sure you backed up on you cell providers cloud). Take screenshots of your current phone layout and app screens. It helps organizing your new phone and let’s you know which apps you had.

Lol, that doesn’t surprise me… I seen it on the Alumacraft Facebook page, they released a video of the new Pro 185 and stated they have a new robust Alumatrac bracket made from aluminum. After watching again, the video show’s the old plastic ones… Apparently someone is misinformed.

@3:25 mark
https://fb.watch/7LDI_jOMsl/

Well if going through security was the same as us, they don’t care what you have… We all beeped and they sent us on our way without any questions or secondary checks.

Follow step 4. You need the +(grey) and the -(black) to power the gauge, then the trim sender is what “communicates” between the trim switch and gauge.

The plugs are all integrated in the Suzuki control harness. The connection plugs you found are located close the throttle control box, correct? Your essentially splicing off the trim up/down wires from the control box using Suzuki’s bullet connectors. Maybe they do have extension wires added to get them under the dash but I don’t recall that being the case….

Here is something to try to help determine if the gauge actually works.

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They redesigned the brackets to be aluminum this year. Dealers can order, but I would assume the after market will be cheaper since they price gouge every accessory.

Not sure if mounting to these would work… The width of the Bimini poles are designed to fall in the middle of the gunnel on the topside. You would need to bend the pole inward to align with the hardware. I would envision it being a pain to install the thumb screws since the holes will not be concentric anymore. It’s worth a shot, you always have plan B to mount it like the installation instructions.

Just guessing here…
Wood was used because it is cheap and easy to work with. I bet it was squared off at the bottom to make it easier for a quick and easy drop in and be done. Trying to match the contour of the tank would take time for very little gain of space. Maybe it was intended to let the sediment settle to the bottom of the tank, but looking at the contraption, I doubt that thought occurred to them.

Plastic would be a better long term solution. Making divider walls would work like you mentioned, just drill some holes in it to allow water/air to move freely. Or buy perforated plastic sheets to make it easier. Take a piece of cardboard and cut it to match the contour of the tank, then use it as a template to cut the plastic sheet. Get some stainless mounting brackets/angles and glue them to the tank (could weld but SS can be tricky for some). Then attach the plastic using Stainless bolts/nuts.

Good Luck!

That is an interesting idea actually. Drive the jetski into it. It propels the pontoon, then back it out and cruise around on the jetski. It would be another way to move more PWCs.
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There is a boat version out already, but it would be awesome to see it integrated with the pontoon.

Coletrain27 wrote:

Here’s a picture. Seems goofy with handlebars instead of a steering wheel

I agree. I was envisioning hand on the throttle at all times, but it appears they have cruise control. I still would like to see a jetski built into it. Anchor and let the kids go for a ride. Two toys, one trailer.

Mike,
Assuming it was you, it only took 3 minutes to get a shoutout on the live feed!

deertracker wrote:

My GF has a cherry tree that is ready to pick. Thinking about making cherry moonshine. Anyone have a recipe they like?
DT

No moonshine experience, but I soak these in Vodka. Any fruit soaked for a few weeks works wonders (I mainly do raspberries). No science to it, but more is better. I usually put a bunch of jolly ranchers in with it too. It usually turns a cheap bottle into something you can sip on ice.

ThermoPro-Wireless-Bluetooth Thermometer

Get the app. Set your temps for each thermometer. It will notify you when temp is reached. I also put a thermometer in the grill and set an alarm for low temp. Just for visibility the grill is still functioning.

With the tail gate down, make sure the the winch post clears the tail gate on tight turns… Watched first hand, my buddy and the tailgate were bent out of shape after.

Any chance you make it down to the metro from time to time? I would be interested if we were closer.

I have done it on similar boats, structure is fine. The only concern would be the floatation foam that you remove from the bench. The boat no longer has enough foam to float incase of capsizing/swamping.

patk wrote:

Here’s one on the cheap. Velcro a handwarmer on the bottom side.

This is similar to what I have done for fishing tournaments. We would put handwarmers in zip-lock bags and throw it directly in the hole. It was a short term fix for the day.

Is there a cup holder in the support that it mounts to? Some models you need to remove the cup holder to get access. It’s not much, but usually big enough for your hand/arm to pass through.

It looks like it has a seating position for an o-ring. I would guess that is what your missing.

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