Yes, Upper and Lower Prior are on the LakeMaster card in High Def. 1ft contours, and have been for several years. That map should have popped up showing your location when you powered up. Something’s wrong with your set up. Call HB customer service at 800-633-1468
Steve
LakeMaster

Randy,
I just loaded the WI Ver 4 LakeMaster in my 1197. The slowest redraw I can generate by either scrolling or zooming is about 2-3 seconds. I did this on different high definition maps (dense data). Be sure you have the newest software in your unit if your speeds are slower than that.

Try Scheels in Mankato. They had them last Friday.

LakeMaster digital map cards are brand specific. Your Garmin version will only work in compatible Garmin GPS units. Since July, 2011 LakeMaster makes only Humminbird versions.

Yes, that is a 2011. 7.1 has some buoy changes not on the original 7.0 release, otherwise identical.

The LakeMaster Contour Elite DVD is different than the Garmin/LakeMaster CD. You can download the maps from the Garmin CD, that is its primary purpose. But, it will only recognize one GPS, whereas the Garmin microSD works in most Garmin GPSs.

There were two Insight Woods/Rainy versions made. Version two has everything you need, all US LOTW water, plus Sabaskong, Whitefish, up and beyond Yellow Girl. It also has all of the Rainy River, all of Rainy Lake, Kabetogama, Namakan, Sand Point and Crane. All is in high definition 1 foot contours.

Mike, HDS 10s have softkeys (shortcut keys)along the bottom. If you’ve installed the most recent software update, the right hand key will change from 2D to 3D, with or without contours at the push of a button. The 3D starts to get blurry at about 3,000ft image size and disappears at about 1,100 feet image size. I think Shaded Relief is best used as a prefishing tool. Turn of contour lines and zoom out until the image looks sharpest. Then study the lake bottom, marking what is interesting to you. Go back to 2D with contours and check depths on what you marked.

If no retailers near you stock them, contact LakeMaster.

The Garmin version of LakeMaster will work in nuvis. You must turn off the built in map, City Navigator. The background map on the LakeMaster card is City Navigator so you won’t have to change back unless you leave the geographic area of the map card.

Thank you for the suggestions. I’m checking them both out. An on-board application doesn’t work for me.

FYI, wing dams have been on the last 2 digital map cards, therefore LakeMaster no longer adds wingdams to older chips. Sorry.

Either the WI or MN Garmin digital data will show this information on your Legend. Lowrance/LakeMaster data cards won’t work in Garmin units and vice-versa. LakeMaster’s Mississippi information hasn’t changed for ’09, so ’08 data cards/cd’s will work just fine for the river. Garmin should be releasing their ’09 data any day, however, which will show the new hi-def lakes for each state respectivley.

Both the new (May 1, 2009) Minnesota and new Woods/Rainy will have Kab and the western edge of Nam in hi def 1 ft contours. The balance of Namakan, Sand Point and Crane are in 5/10 ft contours.

Crosby Stick
They cannot have a 2009 LakeMaster chip since there isn’t one, yet. Lowrance controls the release date. By NW Sportshow? Maybe.

This is a PS to my other comments. Don’t put lots of stock in what and when “lawn care guys” are doing. They do stuff based on how many clients they have to get work done for, not necessarily what’s best for the turf. At least here in Minnesota, it’s WAY too early to do anything but pick up dog poop and winter debris.

Just to establish some credibility, I worked in the golf course business for almost 30 years. I read the entire string on this subject and noone talked about proper mowing. Most golf course grass–greens, tees, approaches, fairways–are maintained at an unnatural height, even for those hybrid grasses. They stay healthy only via intense turf management (fertilizer, chemicals, aeration, water, etc). The best way to have a healthy lawn and minimize all that stuff is cut your grass at a height of 2 3/4″ to 3 1/4″, no shorter, as often as you need to to avoid piles of ‘hay’ in your yard. Don’t water too often, but thoroughly, to establish deeper roots. Healthy grass overcomes most weeds, dog spots, etc. Light fertilization 2 or 3 times/season is all you need. Years of neglect or problem soils may require more intense correction, initially.

The shorter you cut it, the more you have to baby it.

Rita Hayworth (probably have to be over 50 to remember her), from a B western movie “Boys, if I was ranch they’d have called me the Bar Nothing”

ERB
Lake Bemidji is on the new chip in High Def-3ft contours. LOW is a seperate chip, and is upgradable as we survey more water. The current LOW chip, in 1ft contours, includes the Wheeler point area and the river all the way to Baudette. The next upgrade is coming out soon. Both lakes are available on paper as well. Thanks for the suggestions of Plantaganet and Blackduck.
Steve @ LakeMaster

Hi guys,
Thanks, Matt for starting this thread. Trust me, these suggestions are definitely a factor in our survey decisions. In fact, many of the lakes/rivers mentioned are either on the drawing board or already ‘in the can’ waiting for production. Our survey team is continuously adding to our lake inventory. Some general responses:
1. Clearwater, Pokegema (Itasca), Woman, and Green (Kandiyohi) are already in High Defintion on the most recent chip, though not necessarily 1 ft. contours
2. 1 ft. vs. 3 ft: We make that call based upon the characteristics of the particular lake. Sometimes you can get too much info. 6″ works on URL, 3′ is best on Winnie
3. Structure: in fact we are adding more detail but only above the surface stuff. Technology may, in the future, allow us to show bottom structure in focused areas of the lake.
4. Base map data is supplied by Lowrance or Garmin and not in our control
5. Upgrades. Lowrance and Garmin produce the MN, WI, & MI chips and they choose not to offer upgrades, but the price has stayed the same for several years. LakeMaster produces the LOW & Devils Lake chip, and upgrades are available from us as new data is added to those chips.

Steve @ LakeMaster

Re the question about scoping a .22—not a problem. You may be thinking about air rifles. Using a rifle scope on spring piston air rifles can ruin many scopes that would be just fine on high powered rifles. Some scopes’ warranties are invalid on air rifles. Leupolds are an exception.

Mike,
What a great discussion item. Clearly this was not an impetuous decision on your part.
Reading the entire discussion I’m bothered by some fellows distinguishing between killing a deer and a fish. Sounds a little like a Walt Disney view of nature to me. I’ve alway thought that hunting and fishing reinforced my position in this world–nothing occupies space here except at the expense of something else. I don’t care for the fist pumping “hunting” I see characterized on TV. The whole competitive thing–“big G-2’s”, food plots/deer licks, heated elevated blinds, speed ‘hunting’ for planted birds–all of that is making a mess of hunting. I rarely hunt deer anymore, there isn’t much ‘hunt’ in most deer hunting, but I still get the same compassionate catch in my throat when I pick up a still warm and moving pheasant that I did when I approached a downed deer or antelope. If you don’t feel that, it really is time to give it up. It is a serious thing.
The one plea I would offer is that hunters are a diminishing breed, and one less is not a good thing.

Thanks for opening this one up….

Re choke to use. Too many variables to throw out quick answers. Shot size? High Velocity? Copper/nickel coated? Flushing dog or pointer? I strongly reccomend patterning on paper at various distances with various chokes and loads. Shot is less effective later in colder weather, shots are longer, birds are stronger, thus heavier shot and tighter choke. I always use copper/nickel coated hi-velocity shot. 6’s early, 4’s later or 5’s all season. Tight birds on SD opener I often use a 28 ga. Now I’m using 12 ga IM or Full.

Re choke to use. Too many variables to throw out quick answers. Shot size? High Velocity? Copper/nickel coated? Flushing dog or pointer? I strongly reccomend patterning on paper at various distances with various chokes and loads. Shot is less effective later in colder weather, shots are longer, birds are stronger, thus heavier shot and tighter choke. I always use copper/nickel coated hi-velocity shot. 6’s early, 4’s later or 5’s all season. Tight birds on SD opener I often use a 28 ga. Now I’m using 12 ga IM or Full.