Hi guys, reviving an old thread here because I’m wondering about trailers that aren’t galvanized but have more than standard paint (skeeter, ranger, yar). Do these coated trailers offer more protection against road salt compared to standard painted?

Dutchboy wrote:

Micheal where are you from? You need to take one for a spin. Mine is on the Canadian border until the end of the month then it’s just North of the Twin Cities. If you want to get a hands on look and drive it shoot me a PM.

Thanks for the offer Dutchboy, that’s very kind of you! I’m from Toronto, Canada – unfortunately not close enough to just pop over.

I’m set on a 20’ glass tiller (because I can’t afford a 20’ console boat like MX2040) and my only local options are Lund(too much freeboard for me) and Ranger(not a good layout for me). Also, and I know some will disagree with this, I like the 115HP limit on the WX2000T, for my style of fishing, because it’s less expensive and trolls forward slow enough without having to re-pitch specifically for that purpose.

The two Canadian Skeeter dealers are 2.5 hour and 5 hour drives and they do not have, and never have had, the tiller in stock. I’ve never bought a boat without testing it first and I’m not about to do so this time around either, so I will have to bite the bullet and make a trip out to where these boats are more popular and bum a ride from someone such as yourself.

I’ll PM you to take you up on your offer if everything lines up for a trip over to your neck of the woods – thanks again for offering!

Mike

All,

I’ve been in an MX1825 and was amazed at how it drifted perpendicular to the wind. Does the WX2000T do it as well or closely?

Matt Lawrence wrote:

The under floor access is mostly for fuel tank access but there is some storage space. I keep a 28 lb navy anchor in there that’s rarely used.

There is room for 2 batteries side by side in the rear. You can also find room for a power steering pump. There is alot of space on either side of the batteries. I attached a pic of mine. I still need to clean up my wiring…

Thank you so much Matt, that’s exactly what i was looking for!

kroger3 wrote:

I have owned a couple of the 2000T boats and one of them had the 150 with mertans power steering. So under the back on one side I had a big battery and the other side the hydraulic pump for the mertans. Then the main battery storage in the bow under a false floor in the big square compartment. I had 3 batteries for a 36 volt system in there and a charger.

Thanks kroger.

Just to be clear; you had only 1 battery back there, not 2, correct? If so, do you think that 2 would fit along with the merten’s pump, or is there just not enough room for it.

Also, what is the under-floor storage for?

Mike

Hi Guys,

Great info in this thread gentlemen!

I already have a Merc 115HP that I would swap over to this boat if I went ahead with one. The catch is that this setup requires two batteries plus the Merc Big Tiller pump and such. Is there room to fit all of that in the back of the boat? Does anyone have a picture of the transom area with the panel removed? And, ideally also the underfloor storage?

Also, does it drift parallel to the wind?

Thanks!

Michael C. Winther wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>michael poulin wrote:</div>
Does this boat have the REACT keel?

No.

Thank you for confirming. Seems though, based on dutchboy’s comments, that she still tracks pretty darn good.

Hi guys,

Does this boat have the REACT keel?

As of last fall, Troll Master had not designed an updated connecting rod (from servo) for the new T9.9. I had to build my own – was pretty easy. Tried to use the old version of that rod and it just would not work as the angles are tighter than they used to be and the rod kept on bending. I combined 3 of those rods together and heat shrinked them together to make them stronger – this worked and is working quite well.

I wish i had pics but i don’t… sorry.

mike

Thanks everyone!

Awesome, thanks Dean!

Also with regards to the step (i did search, but couldn’t find it), what is the height of the first step and then how much to the deck?

Thanks,
Mike

Hi Dean,
On the step up to the bow, the one on the pic is not a flip up style.

4 BUCK,

Thanks for the heads-up.

What was your reason for going VF150 vs F200? was it cost or something else?

thanks

Thanks guys, all good points…just wanted to make sure i explored it.

Hi Guys,

Same question but for the VF150 (now that it comes in 25″) – on MX1825.

How slow would it troll down to with the VTS? I use my TM for walleye trolling, so this is for salmon.

Would there be a considerable difference in how slow the VF150 will troll when compared to the F200?

Thanks,
Mike

It’s hard to tell from the pictures but when standing on the bow of the 1910, are you closer to the water than when standing on the bow of the 2060?

Calvin Svihel wrote:

The price difference between the SHO and Off-shore has to do with digital throttle vs. traditional cable throttle. SHO is a cable whereas the Off-Shore is all digital throttle therefore is more expensive. That is where the 3k is coming from.

That’s a great point Calvin (cable vs. digital throttle being the cost difference). The cost spread between the F250 and F300 is ~1500$CA and the cost difference between the F250 and the VF250 is ~1800$CA. So, although the mechanical throttle is part of the reason for the lower cost on the VMAX, the lower hp still plays a part. Having said that, i would surely pay 1500$ to max out the boat vs. not maxing it out.

Maybe it’s me, but i couldn’t find a foot-controlled throttle for the digital F300… am i missing something? I’m pretty biased on the foot-control because i use it today and would have it hard time going back. So, if that’s the case, then the VMAX is becoming a clearer choice for me.

Also did some research on when\if the VF300 would be coming to North America and couldn’t find anything… do you have any thoughts as to whether or not it will be coming here?

mike

Calvin Svihel wrote:

I am assuming you are putting a Yamaha 300hp?

I’m was leaning that way, however, when James posted the news that the 25″ would be available on the VMAX SHO 250, i was intrigued… and still am. In Canada there’s a 3000$ difference between those engines and if i understand correctly, the SHO 250 is essentially a 275HP engine, right? If so, then 25HP is not worth 3K for me…. thoughts?

James Holst wrote:

So if a 728′ ocean going vessel can spear a wave… you get the point. Is it “prone” to spearing? Absolutely not.

Very good point and it’s the “prone-ness” that i was curious about. thanks for your answer.

mike

Thanks for the great feedback guys.

Calvin: we’re both in Toronto Ontario Canada which is a little too far…. with how well respected SBC is, we’d both love to buy from you guys but it’s just sooooo far…. we’ll have to wait until the boat show to get into them.

mike

Thanks Calvin, that’s exactly what i was hoping for; real-world feedback from an actual owner. I’ve been on those rivers you mention and they are similar enough to the Niagara to make a good comparison. My buddy is really pumped about seeing the 2190 at the boat show….

thanks,
mike

thanks for the update to_setter! once i pull the trigger, i’ll message you to find out if you still have them.

invaluable information TOsetter!!! thank you so much and i certainly do look forward to the pics of your updated setup.

mike

Great, thanks much guys!

Hi Dean,

Thanks for the feedback.

How much of a setback did you go with? Would you suggest the same, or would you go with another setback if you did it again?

Going with MX2025.

thanks,
mike

wow, thanks for pointing that out Eric! I must have read too fast.

it is most definitely TOsetter’s setup that i’m referring to.

TOsetter: Can you please pass on the part numbers that you used? Just want to make sure i’m getting the right parts from the get-go.

thanks
mike

Thank you so much guys!

I was really hoping that hear that I’d be safe in those conditions on Erie\Ontario with the MX2025 because it’s really the boat that I have my heart set on. With such great input from actual owners, I feel confident in making the appropriate decision. I really do think that this boat will be perfect for my needs and can’t wait to pull the trigger this winter. I’m not a runner-and-gunner either and do prefer to take my time and be safe, as opposed to going fast in rough conditions…. Oh, and I really love Ben’s statement: “I would MUCH rather fish big water out of a 2025 than fish smaller lakes for bass out of a 2190.”

I have two dealers available to me; one within 1 hour and the other at 2 hours away. Will be visiting each and hopefully will be able to choose the right one, because as we all know, the dealer makes a huge difference in the whole experience.

Thanks to all those that provided their opinions and input – such an invaluable asset!

Mike p

Thanks for the great info to_setter.

I posted a new topic “Need Help Choosing My New Boat” that i’m really hoping you could respond to, since you have the mx2025.

thanks,
mike p

to_setter wrote:

In my MX2025, I’ve got 3 trolling motor batteries plus 4 bank charger in the floor. The starting battery is in the rear starboard compartment (in place of the drop in container), and when salmon fishing, I put another deep cell in the Port rear compartment (in place of the drop in container)

hi to_setter,

I like what you’re doing there. Did you have the factory wire this up? If not, how difficult was it to wire up the 4th\starting battery to the 4-bank-charger? And, how are you connecting the 5th/downrigger battery to your riggers?

Thanks Joel.

I imagine the electronics run off of the starting battery then?

There’s an option, shown on the site, called “Rear Drop-In Boxes”. I imagine that you could not fit a battery and the boxes in the back port\starboard compartments, right? So, if i put in a battery there for my downriggers, i’d sacrifice one of the storage boxes…?

note that i plan on going 4-stroke, so the oil well wouldn’t be installed.

mike

Hi James,

when i pull the trigger on the mx2025, i’m going to want the exact same trax setup that you have shown here.

What is the part number for the raised track? Is it MT-48?

Are the risers what they call the “reverse riser” (DRBRS-4)?

Would you do anything different to do it all over again (aside from not initially getting the rails)?

thanks,
Mike