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  • M Schlitzy
    Posts: 3
    #2010199

    CONFIRMED –
    I removed the air cover/foam filter which gives you access to two nuts. Remove them. This allows you to pull off the lower air filter housing along with the carb and gasket. Leave carb hang by fuel line.
    Use a couple q-tips to clean the intake tunnel. Throughly clean the air filter box interior and dry. It was oily all through this area. I used dish soap on the cover when removed.
    Reassemble.
    Starts on first or second pull again.

    M Schlitzy
    Posts: 3
    #1997760

    All- I believe this is the issue found in another thread. Thank you.
    Did you store it in the off season upright and with oil in it? I had a similar issue with my Jiffy Pro4 Lite before I got rid of it and got the HC40. I had to take the carb apart and clean some residual oil that I think was in there from the manufacturer. It had a tendancy to kill while I was drilling a hole or shortly afterwards, it seemed hesitant when I’d give it gas. I then had problems starting my HC40 last year after I replaced the oil from the previous year. It was really hard to pull the first time, like it was stuck. I found out here, and confirmed with Eskimo, that even though their manual says you can store it upright for storing, you can’t if there’s oil in it, as it will get into the carb. So now I drain the oil before storing it, then put new oil in at the beginning of the season.

    M Schlitzy
    Posts: 3
    #1988052

    Thanks for this great insight. I have the same model. First use was excellent. Second time out would not start.
    With the advice here I used the air bleed.
    Only with the throttle fall will it start … but not run or idle. Short burst and quit. This is more than I had but not eliminate the issue. Then auger will not start until I bleed air again. Then short burst and quit. Have tried full throttle, half throttle, no throttle.
    Thanks for any help.

Viewing 3 posts - 1 through 3 (of 3 total)