We have a few gas fire tables of varying sizes (gazebo, patio, and dock), and they are awesome for those half hour/hour sits when you don’t want to track down the kindling. I bet we use ours five nights a week in the summer, compared to five wood-burning fires in a month. We just bought this one for the patio a month ago, it’s a beast:

https://www.menards.com/main/outdoors/fire-pits-outdoor-heating/backyard-creations-reg-timbercrest-36-propane-gas-fire-pit-table/2020-f0102/p-1841405560698599-c-12918.htm?tid=2378819740460694026&ipos=7

While they don’t replace the real thing, we like adding a ceramic log kit to the rocks to give ’em a better vibe, seems to also help the flames climb a bit higher, but that might just be in my head. You can find a few varieties for ~$60 on Amazon.

We are almost done framing a 40×96 stick built, of which 40×36 is a bar/living room/bathroom, with 40×60 insulated storage. All in-floor heat, two zones. 12′ sidewalls in bar, 14′ in storage. Concrete was 12k but we did the forms ourselves and also did the PEX tubing for the heat (maybe $4,500 for PEX and form materials). Lumber has come down significantly since I bought, but I probably have 30k into all the sticks, including trusses which are 2′ on center. 2′ overhang all around. Just spent 13,500 on roof steel and windows (7). That’s essentially where I’m at today. With well, electric, septic, epoxy on storage side, vinyl plank on bar side, cabinetry, fixtures, traditional insulation (not sure on foam yet), I expect I’ll have $150k-$175k (maybe $200k if the wifey gets involved in finishes) into it, with zero value put on labor. As others have said, every project is different – Happy to chat if you have any specific questions!
-lpg

It really is different for everybody, and partly it’s just speculation on where taxes may go in the future. Generally, the more time you have on your side, the more valuable the Roth and why I can justify using it even if you fall in the 22-24% brackets. If you’re 5-10 years from retirement, that argument becomes more difficult, as the tax-free part of the Roth (the growth) simply won’t be as significant as someone with 20-30 years of compounding earnings in front of them. Bear in mind, the matching dollars from your employer can’t go into the Roth (since they get to write off the contributions), so if you put in 5% Roth and they match 5%, your balance is really 50/50 Roth/Traditional. Myriad things at play when it comes to what makes sense for you; we generally look at multiple years of tax returns and a balance sheet before making a recommendation.

Sidenote – the guys talking about the conversions are spot on. An excellent option for early retirees (or even regular-age retirees that haven’t yet turned on SS) that maybe have some after tax monies to live on for a couple of years. There are some considerations once we hit Medicare age and/or turn on social security, as the taxation on SS and premiums for Medicare are mostly driven by your AGI/MAGI.

Depending on how much you make, it may be easiest just to elect the Roth 401k option through your company plan (almost all offer it today), unless of course you want to open up the investment options/play stocks/etc, then go with a cheap online brokerage. We generally guide clients that regardless of age, if you fall under the 12% taxable income threshold of ~$80k/year for a married couple (appx $104k gross) it’s a no brainer, all Roth all the time. For those in their 20s, 30s, and even 40s, I can make a case for the Roth even if they step into the 22% and 24% brackets, assuming they aren’t disqualified by income. On that note, Roth 401ks have no income limitations, so some folks that foresee themselves in a high bracket forever will opt for the Roth just to bite the bullet now and be done with it. Back door option works fine as long as you don’t have any SEP, SIMPLE, or traditional IRA accounts outstanding.

After reopening the last two weeks with the wind and warmth, I saw a number of bays and smaller ponds skimmed this morning in the OT/Becker county area.

I help out with a smaller derby in Detroit Lakes and as of right now we are planning for a cap of 250 folks, which sucks. We generally get in that 800-1,000 range. We are looking at complementing our limited in-person derby with something virtual, probably through an app-based service like Fish Donkey. It’s a bummer, the myriad derbies around the state are a nice excuse to plan a weekend in Jan/Feb, and generally support some great causes.

Sorry, AC = Arctic Cat

Mileage, just like with vehicles, really comes down to how the unit was maintained and ridden. You’ll see some rental sleds with diligent maintenance schedules go well into five figures and keep purring. I’ve got about 5k on a 2001 ZL 600 and it does the job. You can run on glare ice, but can get a little loose without studs. Also, some say liquid cooled is more of a problem without adequate snow, but if you aren’t driving 15 miles on glare ice I don’t think it’s a huge issue, and scratchers can help if it makes you feel better. My old ZL is a 121 inch track which is about as short as they get today, I believe. Great trail rider, but shorter length means less rubber on the snow, so not as capable in the deep stuff. The biggest things I’ve noticed in the various generations of sleds are the ergonomics. The 90s/early 2000s era tend to put the rider in a more laid back position, sort of like you’re leaning back in a chair. Since then, most have gone to a much more ‘rider forward’ position that I feel is way more comfortable than my old girl (I was playing around on a buddy’s ’11ish Polaris Iq when I discovered that difference). I’ve always trailered so I can’t speak to the truck bed. Brands – generally come down to preference as you alluded. One thing about the older gens is that I believe AC was the only one to have EFI back in the day, and that makes a huge difference in starting, especially pull-starting (two pulls from cold no matter what, vs. a ’98XC I had that took forever to turn over). They all seem good now. I used to just use a rope to tow but didn’t like how the sled tracked, and on hard pack or ice it was almost impossible to stop without having the sled crash into the back, so I’ve gone to an actual hitch and it’s nice. I’m certainly not an expert, but have been looking at upgrading recently and been doing a fair amount of research. With no budget the Switchback Assault 600 144 would be my dream, but overkill for my 1-2 mile commutes for fishing. Would definitely get me more interested in riding recreationally with a machine like that, however. Good luck with the search!

Dan, you may have an option to make Roth contributions directly into your 401k through work, your HR/payroll dept could say for sure. The annual limits go up substantially, and sometimes the costs are lower than what you may pay on your own, as the 401k is generally priced on the overall size of the plan, not just your individual balance. That can vary wildly, definitely not my place to say for sure. Your employer matching dollars have to go into the deferred portion, which will ensure you have both tax-free and tax deferred monies in the account at retirement, and like tornado said, it’s hugely beneficial to have both. It will allow you/your CPA/financial advisor to really manipulate your taxes depending on the brackets at the time.

As a CFP I’m admittedly a little biased, but I like a lot of what Grouse has to say. Dave and Evan are spot on as well – online is undoubtedly the cheapest for those so inclined, but it’s like anything: I can re-roof my house over a weekend save some money, or pay a pro while I make a tee time or launch the boat.

Tommy makes a good point about fiduciaries as well. It’s a term that hasn’t really permeated our field en masse, but one I expect you’ll see more and more as consumers start to see the benefits. Committing to acting in clients’ best interest seems like an obvious thing to many, but unfortunately it is not yet the standard in financial planning. CFPs are generally fiduciaries, as are all advisors that operate under an RIA (registered investment advisor). The CFP site for investors letsmakeaplan.org has a nice little packet with 10-questions to ask a prospective advisor. It’s a great place to start whether you’re interviewing CFPs or not.

Google is on to those who have finished all the Flynn books and then go search “Books like Mitch Rapp” because that led me right to the Harvath series a couple of years ago. Good reads. One other local author that has provided some entertainment is William Kent Krueger and his Corcoran O’Connor series. Local cop/PI premise, but with a woodsy/outdoorsy tilt in the iron range which seems to fit many here.

Currently I don’ t plan to partition off the rec area from the garage, just one open space. I wonder on the incremental cost in keeping the entire building at 60-65 vs 50? If it’s inside of $100 or so or month in a normal year I would maybe just go that route. You’re right, the hot dawgs tend to pause all conversation when they kick in. It sounds like the plans for interior finishing will weigh heavily in the post vs. stick debate, I hadn’t considered that.

Day job for me, too, but I have no problem going out after dark up here. Kid goes to bed at 7, eat with wifey, fire up the sled and hit the lake by 8 or 8:30, fish til 10:30 or 11:00. That has been the schedule the last two nights anyway. Mostly walleyes where I fish and it’s not a fast and furious bite, but like you said, the process itself is enjoyable and the action is enough to keep me entertained. Had a 28-30 inch pike around 9:30 last night that really surprised me, I’ve never seen them as nocturnal feeders.

Grouse, if the 59.5 thing is all that’s holding you back from an earlier retirement, ask your CFP about a 72(t). Essentially allows for withdrawals from qualified plans prior to 59.5, however, the amount is determined by a formula and you have to do it for five consecutive years. The most common situation we’ve seen with clients, unfortunately, is that they retire early, start a 72(t), get bored a year later, go back to work, and now they have wage income alongside their 72(t) amount which can push them into higher tax brackets.

But, if you know you’re done (at least as far as ‘reportable’ income goes), it may be something to explore. I’m glad to hear you’ve found value with a CFP. I’m slightly biased, but I think anyone looking for planning help should require that mark.

My fox red British is the exact personality you’re describing, Darin. Max is great in the field, but if we aren’t working he can sleep in the boat or the fish house just as easily. I hunt with many ‘hardcore’ guys that insist you need a wirehair, shorty, griffon to properly upland hunt, and I’ll admit Max (and I think most labs) doesn’t have the nose of those breeds. I also didn’t want the typically high-strung pointer personality the 350 days a year I’m not hunting. An added benefit is not needing a medical kit after every cattail hunt like my pointer buddies, as Max has that stockier build with what I like to call ‘loose-fitting’ skin. Everyone comments on his big blocky head, another differentiation from the American version. I worked with Dan and MaryJo at Whispering Pines and they were wonderful. I imagine I’ll be looking at their litters in the next year or two, as Max is now seven and I’d like them to overlap (mostly so Max can do the training!). I have never had him professionally trained and my abilities are extremely limited on that front, but I agree with Suzuki that a well bred dog can make anyone look like a good trainer!

Gimruis – Where did you get her? She’s got a beautiful build

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I bought the auger mount adapter from Minn-Dakota Industries, maybe $200 including the Digger mount, no drilling to the Ranger as it is fabricated to bolt to factory holes. Rear rack was about a $4 investment for a dowel that fits in the lock and ride holes of the bed, plus a scrap board I painted and sealed. Allows me to get the house out of the way so everything else can still fit inside the bed. Like Joe said, lots of other boxes out there if you want to drop some coin. 12″ screen would be a lot in my cab, already seems crowded in there. But curious to see pics if you come up with something!

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Bigwalleye is right, if the wheels are inside a well like on most 8′ houses you’ll generally need to take them off, as the models I’ve seen are usually 4-5′ long to maximize floatation. I suppose you could buy smaller ones that would fit inside the wheel well, but then you’re really going to plow and might defeat the purpose altogether.

I’m by no means an authority as I’ve only had one experience, but I borrowed a set of steel ones from a buddy and they were instrumental in getting my 8×16 Yetti (~3,500lbs.) off the lake. He had aluminum ones and said they were too fragile over compacted/frozen drifts for his liking. Plus, I believe these were in the $250-$300 range vs. ~$750 for aluminum and I guess saving 30-40 lbs a pair wasn’t enough to swing the pendulum.

I’m heading out in an hour here, I’ll have to toss that handle on and give it a try. I rather enjoy my wrists intact, and I certainly don’t need my golf game to get any worse.

I’ve got the Octane/Nero combo and all the hubbub about how dangerous the torque can be without the proper handles/braces/clam plate seems a bit over done to me. As a right hander I use the integrated handle from the Nero in my right hand to control the bit, and my left hand on the drill which I plant against my body as I’m drilling. Any catch and my jacket will absorb the torque. I’ll eventually attach the auxiliary handle that came with the drill to see how that feels, but just haven’t needed to yet…

I love my Lazer Pro and it’s certainly not going anywhere, but this thing has made drilling holes fun again. (As I’m sure the K-drill, Pistol Bit, etc. do, not trying to start a war) Eventually I’ll have to do a side by side with my Lazer because this just might be in my head, but it feels like the Nero is measurably faster through the ice (granted, a 7″ bit vs. a 10″ on the SM)

Anyway, I thought the drill option would be more of an early ice thing for me, but with the donkey batteries available now, it may play a bigger role throughout the season.

Joe – I can wrangle it up there myself if needed, lower the tailgate, set the house vertically leaning against the gate, then just slide it up the rack. Certainly not ideal on an ever aging back – picked up a one man this year for that exact reason. With another guy it’s easy to just lift it up there, all heaters/propane, rods, tackle, etc. are in the box, so the house is empty.

This is what I did for the ‘rack’… Very simple dowel/treated plywood construction. The dowels slide right into the holes around the bed, so no modification of the Ranger was needed. That’s a Citadel sitting on top, made it high enough for a five gallon bucket to fit underneath. This pic is from last year after adding the Minn-Dak auger mount (slick install on that, also no mod needed on the UTV), and realized I needed to add a front light bar to the roof this year, as the headlights get a bit obscured with the auger up there.

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I picked up a Clam Blazer this fall for that exact reason; At 35 lbs. with non-extendable poles it seems perfect for solo maneuvering and rapid setup. I love my Citadel too, but that thing pushes 125 lbs with a little gear in it and that gets to be a lot on my own.

outdoorsmn wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>BigWerm wrote:</div>
My Universal life was getting about a 3-4% return last I checked, which is pretty good in the current savings rate climate imo. Both Universal and Whole Life policies can (and should imo) have level premiums, so you pay the same now as you will at 85 years old. They are not investments though, so they will always pale in comparison to open market investments, especially since no open market investment illustration usually factors in a recession or estate tax (that’s one reason why it’s apples to penguins imo). My buying dollars with pennies comment was in regards to the death benefit compared to the premium to fund the policy.

For the most part yes, Universal Life premiums do remain level, however that is not ALWAYS the case (link below). Even if your premiums do remain level, your ‘cost of insurance’ (COI) continues to increase. Eventually eating away and depleting your cash value unless you voluntarily increase your premiums.

https://www.marketwatch.com/story/millions-could-get-slapped-with-steep-premium-hikes-for-universal-life-insurance-2017-05-01

You nailed it outdoorsmn. We run in-force illustrations (sort of a detailed breakdown on their existing contracts) for clients all the time, and they are often shocked to hear that everything is great until they hit 65-75 years old and their cost of insurance outpaces their premiums/interest on the contract. What really gets them is when they see the policy completely blow up at 75-80 years old, far from ‘permanent’ in most people’s minds. It’s important to look at a proposal to see what sort of interest/earnings/cost of insurance they are assuming in the illustration, and then ask to see what the guaranteed (worst case) interest/earnings/cost of insurance would look like. There are plenty of truly permanent contracts from good companies that will provide insurance until age 120, and we use them regularly for folks with particularly large estates, as you can (at least partially) avoid MN’s relatively punitive estate tax environment (currently a couple can exclude $4.8MM of asset value from estate taxes, scheduled to reach $6MM in 2020 and beyond).

Like anything you purchase, go out there and get a few quotes. Don’t immediately sign on the line because they painted you a pretty picture of “Retirement and legacy planning all rolled into one!” NW Mutual, Thrivent, and other captives bug me more than most as they can only sell their own product, vs. an independent who will quote your case with a dozen carriers to find the best value. Captives can certainly be great companies, but they don’t have the best solution for everyone.

Sorry for getting off the main topic, but I guess it’s safe to say I side with Ramsey when it comes to the ‘buy term, invest the difference’ philosophy, unless we’re talking about big picture estate planning.

I’ve never done the Keens so I can’t comment there, but I’m not much of a sandal guy to begin with. I’ve got the Columbia PFG Bahama Vents and love them; Not as fast drying as a flip flop but great support. The bottom has a mesh lining that drains water at a reasonable rate. I don’t run around in two feet of water with them, but great for getting in/out of the boat when landing on shore and whatnot.

I also have the 3255 and it is an absolute treat. Echoing Waldo, the setup is just an adjustment to which I’m sure you’ll adapt quickly. I won’t rehash any of the few cons already listed, they are valid. The rod holders also mount in a goofy spot in my opinion: When you put a rod in them, the rod itself blocks the doorway, and 90% of the time when I’m putting my rod in the holder it’s to step outside! I’ll probably drill separate holes on the edge of the tub inside the seats to work around that small annoyance, because I do enjoy having them. I had one window crack and asked Frabill if they sold them separately – They said no, but mailed me a whole set at no cost. The Citadel is huge for two and works for three if that’s important. Even with that size, it’s doable to load for one guy.