Excellent video, Jon.
You made it very simple and easy for people to understand.
The oil change in those hubs will be a lot less “intimidating” to a lot of people now with your video.
Thanks!
Rick
Excellent video, Jon.
You made it very simple and easy for people to understand.
The oil change in those hubs will be a lot less “intimidating” to a lot of people now with your video.
Thanks!
Rick
The cops don’t make the laws, the people we elect into office do. The cops use the laws on the books, however cheap or severe, to stop people.
I still am of the feeling that your home is your castle and your expectation of privacy is of the highest there. After that, when you venture out into public places – onto public roadways, it lessens. The people we elect into office govern what we do and can not do, how we can or can not act on the public roads and then they publish those “rules” in a form called statutes for everone to read. Ya, most of them are about as exciting as reading the rules of Candyland to my daughter, but like her, I have read them before so that I know what the rules are and what is expected of me, because I don’t want no trouble.
I am sure it is common in most states, but MN does have a candyland rule that covers this topic saying “Subd. 7.Plate fastened and visible.All plates must be (1) securely fastened so as to prevent them from swinging, (2) displayed horizontally with the identifying numbers and letters facing outward from the vehicle, and (3) mounted in the upright position. The person driving the motor vehicle shall keep the plate legible and unobstructed and free from grease, dust, or other blurring material so that the lettering is plainly visible at all times. It is unlawful to cover any assigned letters and numbers or the name of the state of origin of a license plate with any material whatever, including any clear or colorless material that affects the plate’s visibility or reflectivity.”
The liberal state of MN (those elected folks) also have a little bit more liberal point of view when it comes to that lessened expectation of privacy on the public roadways than I believe in, and so they do not allow for “checkpoints” in the interest of public safety (ooh, that should stir the pot), so I know that officers then resort to other legal reasons for stopping cars on the roadways. Now, maybe I am showing my age, but I was always taught that driving was a privilage, not a guarantee. I then got older and understood that it is a civil, contractual agreement between you and the State of MN that you could drive on the road and be “licensed” if you followed the laws and if you didn’t then we don’t want you driving on our roads anymore – hence “you are revoked / suspended / canceled”. I must have missed a change about the same time that the “its not my fault” theory began.
Yes, while the state does have a campaign to lessen the number of people on the roadways that are – including but not limited to: drunks, agressive drivers, speeders, follow too closers, inattentive drivers, by pulling people over and allowing the cops to use good investigative skills for subsequent issues such as drinking, there have been (as pointed out in a couple previous posts) crimes such as “why don’t they go after the murderers, rapists, drug dealers, and ponzi schemers”(ok, I added that one) which have been detected, apprehended and solved because of an equipment violation.
Timothy McVeigh (dude bombed the Murrah Federal Bldg in OK – 1995)was stopped for a license plate infraction on I-35 in Noble County in Oklahoma and subsequently arrested and convicted. I know a cop that on a cold winter night, tried to stop a car for a tail light out. Ended up in a chase which led to the arrest of Phillip Cole who killed a Hutchinson Police Officer in 1989.
And as far as the whole money issue goes…don’t kid yourself. Whether it is a speeding ticket or a murder case solved, the only ONLY people getting the money are the attorneys.
I think we should be glad we have those cops out there, day after day, willing to serve. If you really think it is the Gestapo, then I think you are still playing Candyland – cause the Gestapo really don’t give a damn if your license plate is a swingin…
Gestapo:
Show Spelled Pronunciation [guh-stah-poh; Ger. guh-shtah-poh] Show IPA
Use gestapo in a Sentence
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–noun 1. the German state secret police during the Nazi regime, organized in 1933 and notorious for its brutal methods and operations.
Happy Holidays!
Rick
Now, just because that is what you do and it has worked for you, shouldn’t subject you to being bashed. If something works for you, then stick with it. Rotella is a good oil and it has been around for a lot of years.
But, synthetic oils are great for 4 stroke applications from sleds to boats, to cars and diesel trucks. And just like someone told you not to, I try to tell people to use them…I have used them in all the above applications and have had great luck with them.
Public information on the MSP site. I think it is good for everyone to read and see what happens in crashes. And to see how many bad crashes there are. These are only the ones that the state patrol investigates and doesn’t include all the crashes that other deputies and local cops report on.
https://www.dps.state.mn.us/patrol/media/DisplayAllIncidents.asp
No info released on the DOA victim from Hastings as of today yet. Although I do not know them, I send my condolences to the family of the victim invoved in this tragic crash.
Not to get on a soap box (but I am), but it is sad that 500 people in MN die every year in car crashes (crashes are not “accidents” they are preventable). To most, those 500 some are just a stastical number – almost an accepted part of motor vehicle travel.
But, if we put that number into perspective…would we continue airline travel if 2 A320 jets crashed in MN every year? Heck no, they would shut down the airport. Or howabout if 500 kids died every year from a disease at school, would we send them back to school? No way. Then what is it that has to be done to get people to understand that driving is not secondary when you are behind the wheel.
It is serious business…as serious as – ok, does this analogy work: the metro dome at a Vikings game, er ok how about a bigger crowd, OK, 1991 Twins and the stands are filled…with everyone having a 1911 .45 handgun in their hand cocked but not locked. Would people understand the mentality that “holy crap, I gotta be careful with this thing cause I could kill someone…might even be someone I know or like and it might even be ME!”
“A beer? Heck no, not while I got this thing in my hand…the last thing I need is alcohol with this thing. And I hope to god everyone else is thinkin the same way…I don’t want someone else to shoot me OR my kid with me.”
I am not crazy guys…just tired of the wasted lives that are needlessly taken from all of us day after day and that it is not a higher social priority issue.
I am stepping down off my soapbox now and it is pretty tall…I hope I haven’t slipped and fallen on my [censored]…
Stay warm…
Rick
Just be careful with the “interchangability”. The only real difference between the outboard oil and snowmobile oil is that the snowmobile oil is made to have a pour point to -40 degrees so that in oil injection systems it will flow. The outboard oil will not flow well in the colder conditions.
Obviously, that is not a factor in premix applications.
Also, I would not be afraid to use 40:1 mixture or even to 50:1 mix. I run all my stuff at 50:1. It makes for easy starting, minimal “secretion” out your muffler…(sounds like a personal problem) and no plug fouling. We are not talking 10,000 rpm with an ice auger.
Stay warm!
Take a look at this site:
http://www.Tirerack.com
I bought some tires and wheels from here and these people were great to deal with. I bought tires and rims for my 82 merc capri 5.0 (sister car to the mustang). They sent the tires and rims all set up and balanced and shipped UPS.
The front tires were a little wide – they only left about a 1/4 inch in between the shock tower and the tire. I called them up and they shipped out the next size narrower and sent return tags for the original ones….no charge.
The site has an iteractive area where you can pick your vehicle, even down to the color, and try different wheels / tires on it to see what it looks like.
The site has a tire rating area that you can look at different brands and models looking at wear, quietness, traction, etc.
It also has installer locator based on zip code with prices that they offer.
I don’t have any affiliation with the site, just had good luck with it and passing along the info.
Rick
Had the same problem 2 years ago.
The hood on my roof is one of those metal, what I call curved hoods, that exhaust back down onto the roof.
It has a flapper door in it and a screen large enough for a small kid to get through. The wasps made a nest up inside it and were able to come down the pipe.
I am not a bee fan at all and so I opted for the exerminator method.
He came out and used a turkey baster type deployment system and discharged a powder or dust into the vent hood. I can’t remember what the dust was but it is a controlled substance (not like the contraband type you are thinking of) but stuff that you have to be licensed to get.
He “puffed” around all my vents for good measure.
He also said that with the powder, unlike the spray, if an insect comes back to the hive and comes into contact with the residual powder, it will kill them and any other insects they touch also. Works great for larger hives where bees / hornets / wasps etc. come in contact with each other in the hive.
Wasps gone. No roof casualties of the human kind.
Good Luck
Rick
Still Looking?
There is an indoor range in Maple Plain.
Air Assault
http://www.airassaultpaintball.com
(maple plain is just east of south dakota)
What are you using it for? Concealed carry?
The .40 round is going to be a lighter load than the .357 would be and for an “emergent” situation, this may bode well to the situation as your 2nd and subsequent shots may be closer or on target vs. firing a hotter round.
This also holds true if you, again for concealed carry, are looking for a smaller gun. The smaller it is, the more difficult the control factor tends to be.
I am not sure on prices, but I would sure think that .40 ammo is probably cheaper than the .357 auto rounds?
Another gun that you may want to look at is a Kahr. I know a couple of people that have purchased these and like them for concealability. You can literally put them in your front pants pockets and not know its there.
Probably the most important thing is go somewhere and shoot the guns you are interested in. Get to know what it feels like “during business hours”, not just how it fits in your hand.
If you are thinking about stopping power in a hand gun, then consider this analogy…would you rather be poked in the shoulder with a finger or hit in the gut with a fist. Size matters…
Good Luck!
Rick
What are you using it for? Concealed carry?
The .40 round is going to be a lighter load than the .357 would be and for an “emergent” situation, this may bode well to the situation as your 2nd and subsequent shots may be closer or on target vs. firing a hotter round.
This also holds true if you, again for concealed carry, are looking for a smaller gun. The smaller it is, the more difficult the control factor tends to be.
I am not sure on prices, but I would sure think that .40 ammo is probably cheaper than the .357 auto rounds?
Another gun that you may want to look at is a Kahr. I know a couple of people that have purchased these and like them for concealability. You can literally put them in your front pants pockets and not know its there.
Probably the most important thing is go somewhere and shoot the guns you are interested in. Get to know what it feels like “during business hours”, not just how it fits in your hand.
If you are thinking about stopping power in a hand gun, then consider this analogy…would you rather be poked in the shoulder with a finger or hit in the gut with a fist. Size matters…
Good Luck!
Rick
So what was your first clue?
When you mistakenly thought you spilled your Pina Colada drink in the car?
Speaking of remodeling bathrooms and Derek mentioned showers, I am looking for someone that does tile work and won’t leave me so poor I can’t afford to run the water when it is done.
Any IDA folks that do tile work?
I have a “custom” sized shower, so an insert won’t work. I will need a floor pan and then all the tile done.
(plumbing is already in!)
Thanks for any help.
Rick
Congrats to you, Jack.
39 years is a testiment to the type of person you are – dedicated and honorable. Not many people in this work force today that will even conceive the idea of working that long.
We tend to let our job become our identity and when that comes to a close, we feel we are loosing our identity, but it is just the opposite. You now are gaining recognition for who you really are because now you will have the opportunity to do what YOU WANT to and when (after the honey-do list of course).
Stay busy at working harder than ever now on the things you love.
To a job well done….
Rick
Quote:
And do they make 4 stroke oil?
Klotz does make a 4 stroke oil also and it comes in either quarts or gallons. I have 5W-20, 10W-30, 10W-40 and 20W-50. I sell it for 8.00 per quart or 23.00 per gallon plus shipping.
The 2 stroke oil is 26.00 per gallon plus shipping. Dean has graciously been keeping some on hand there and I just shipped another case to him this morning.
Just contact me by email [email protected] or give me a call at 763-479-2478 and we can work out the details. It is a very easy process as I take credit cards or Paypal and I ship overnight via Spee-Dee delivery.
Rick
Quote:
Would Klotz be FC-W certified? Just curious for warranty purposes. Thanks
Here is a link directly to the Klotz Web site that shows the specs on the outboard oil. This is the info that would be on the label of the container and actually a little bit more info. http://www.klotzlube.com/tech/KL-332.pdf
It will show you that the oil meets and exceeds all manufacturer warranty requirement when a JASO FC, ISO-L-EGD +, API TC-W or TCW-3 oil is required,including Mercury, Mariner, Evinrude, Johnson, Nissan, Suzuki, Yamaha and Tohatsu.
Short answer – “Yes it does”
(This is the info on the 2 stroke oil for premix or oil injection)
Rick
And I ship oil all the time, so if you are concerned about availability, I typically use Spee-Dee delivery for the 5 state area (they do next day delivery on their cheapest rate!) I also use UPS for farther shipments and the Post Office works the best for my Canadian shipments. Shipping typcally runs about 3.00 per gallon in MN an surrounding states. 3.00 / gallon of gas VS. 3.00 per gallon shipped to your door? Even Brain knows the value there…
I am located in Maple Plain if you want to pick it up here also.
Rick
Yes,
Klotz makes motor oils for most all applications.
They make a 5w-20, 10W-30, 10W-40, and a 20W-50 for 4 strokes. I have all but the 5W-20 on hand right now, but will be getting that 5W-20 in a couple of weeks. These oils all are 100% synthetic oils.
I sell them by the quart for 8.00 each or by the gallon for 22.00.
They also carry specialized oils for certain applications such as V-Twin oil forumulated for Harley’s and a 100% synthetic oil for motorcycles also.
Another product that I sell alot of is the the MX-4 oil which is an oil made especially for ATV applications. Again, it is a 100% synthetic and is made to withstand high heat that ATV’s can experience when you are back in the woods, full of mud and your cooling system is comprimised. This oil is designed for wet clutch applications and will not degrade them over time like some oils will.
Obviously, with the 4 stroke boat motor, you don’t get as much of that good Klotz odor from the exhaust, but it is still a great oil.
Any questions let me know. You can either PM me, call or email me.
Rick
763-479-2478
Bob,
I rigged up an electric 12v fuel pump.
I went to NAPA and bought a cheap surface mount 12 volt fuel pump, some gas line (10 ft) and a couple of alligator clips (like the ones on a battery charger).
I screwed the pump to a piece of plywood, cut the hose in 1/2 and put 5 feet on the inlet and outlet, connected the alligator clips onto the 2 pump wires (I added quite a length of wire in between so I could connect to a battery some distance from the fuel) and waaa-laaa, you have a 12 volt electric fuel transfer pump for cheap.
I made it for exactly what you are doing and I have used it several times since that project and actually loaned it out a couple of times too. Turned out to be pretty handy.
Good luck!
Rick
Quote:
Does quality of oil affect runnability on engines ? I have a 1993 Johnson Faststrike 175. On an older engine would it matter ?
“Runability” can definetly be affected by oil, especially in a 2 stroke application whether it is pre mix or oil injected. This oil has to be burned with the gas. If the oil does not burn well, your immediate runability will be affected.
If that oil does not lubricate well while it is in the motor during its short but important lifecycle, then your long term runability will be affected in wear on the motor parts.
Synthetic oils, in my opinion, are superior to petroleum oils because they are made to do what we want them to do…where as petroleum oils have some limitations. Synthetics can be chemically made to mix readily with gas, have a higher shear strength for less wear, withstand higher temps when needed and burn clean and complete in the firing process with less smoke.
Now, as far as brand loyalty, Johnson, Evenrude, and Mercury do not own any oil refineries, so they are not “making” that oil. Don’t feel you HAVE to stick with or use motor brand oil…just like the vast majority of you are not using motorcraft oil filters in your ford vehicles and AC filters in your GM vehicles. Your oil filter is the kidneys to your vehicle motor, but yet we will buy them at discount stores and rapid oil changers, not knowing what they exactly are.
There are several premium 100% synthetic aftermarket oils out on the market that are superior to the engine brand oils, such as Amsoil, Torco, Redline and KLOTZ.
My point is, I agree with most of the comments that oil does affect runability; you should use a good quality oil; and preference would be to a 100% synthetic oil. Include premium aftermarket oils in your choice as these people specialize in making oil for your application.
The Klotz outboard oil is made to give you exactly what you want and need in an outboard oil to protect that investment, whether it is new or old.
Oh, crap…I forgot! Fish bucks are based on number of posts, not number of words! Sorry bout that.
Rick
With using the Klotz outboard oil?
I have never heard of that – in fact, just the opposite.
The people that switch over and start using it say how much nicer it is as low idle / slow speeds as it doesn’t seem to load up like other oils do. It mixes well and burns clean.
Rick
Quote:
OK in which case I’d reccomend Seafoam over stabil, it has fuel stabilizing properties too, and cleans the motor up. Basically is can do everything stabil can and more, I’ve used nothing but Seafoam for years for winter storage, as do many others on here.
I’d also rather put “questionable gas” in the truck and run it, fill the boat up with some fresh stuff, atleast if it’s bad you can dulute it down a bit with the truck’s gas tank, never had a problem getting rid of some old gas that way. Especially with a 2 stroke motor, which seem to be touchier with bad gas.
“Bingo”
I agree completely.
Sea Foam is good stuff – been around a long time.
Went into a hardware store once along the north shore and asked the guy for some Sea Foam. He looked at me cock-eyed, looked outside to see what my space ship looked like and then looked back at me and said “aint never heard of it before”. If it were a cartoon, his thought bubble over his head would have said – Hey buddy, we aren’t even close to the ocean – we don’t have no sea foam…
HA!
Rick
Yes, just follow the instructions as to how many ounces per gallon you should use.
Also, if you are going to leave gasoline for an extended period of time, it is best to store it in a metal sealed container rather than a plastic one. Plastic containers will allow the products to leach out and lower the octane of the fuel, making it not as burnable or “fresh”. I am talking over a couple of months time here, so week to week is ok, but when you put that boat or snowmobile away, take the fuel out and use it in something like the car. A couple of gallons of mixed fuel shouldn’t harm the car. That has always worked for me.
You will find that good fuel additives like Sea Foam and some of the others come in a metal can, not a plastic container. That is the way I would buy fuel additives. (All of the Klotz products come in metal containers).
Rick
Quote:
I have donated 8 gallons (2 cases) of oil for the silent auction. It is a small amount, but every little bit helps.
I would challenge other IDA site sponsors to match or raise me with any product or service they have towards this event.
Rick
Guys,
Only 5 days left to pony up something for a worthy cause.
Here is how you can donate items for the silent auction and also the link to the web site.
http://www.daveholmfamily.com/contact.html
Rick
I have been a CCFCU member since the late 80’s and have nothing but good to say about their service and profesionalism. Several of my family & friends have also joined the CCFCU based on my recommendation and have experienced the same high level of service and satisfaction.
We have always been treated like we are the most important customer, and everything else will wait until we are satisfied. My mother worked for years in a bank and she did her finances with CCFCU, not the bank she worked at – because she could get a better rate!
I have not had any personal experience with Bob, but all bets are if he works for CCFCU, he is one of the best.
Thanks CCFCU.
I have donated 8 gallons (2 cases) of oil for the silent auction. It is a small amount, but every little bit helps.
I would challenge other IDA site sponsors to match or raise me with any product or service they have towards this event.
Rick
Quote:
That’s a great way of thinking about it! Now, is TCW-3 Klotz Snowmobile oil the proper oil for a 2-cycle blender?
Yes, because of its low pour point, it will maintain its viscosity when you add and blend in the ice. Obviously, the TCW-3 will mix with “anything”…
Blend away and pass me a glass.
Quote:
Hey now, between that and the 1/2oz of Two Cycle oil, Margaritas aren’t cheap!
By the way, I use Klotz snowmobile oil in it!!
….mmmm, nothing like the smell of Klotz 2 stroke on your breath after a long day!
You know, a lot of gas stations, especially in the cities have gone to pre pay or pay before you pump. Most people think that is to prevent drive offs – but in reality, it is so you can get pre approved for the financing you need for your purchase.
I honestly believe that if more parents took this kind of interest in their kids, there would be fewer problems in the world today. Isn’t it terrible that we as a parents have to think in this day and age if what you did is wrong, isn’t it…
Two thumbs up for you.
Brian,
Glad you got your order right away.
The Speedee delivery people are pretty good with shipping.
Back in the early – middle 70’s, synthetic oil’s like Klotz were made with products that didn’t mix with other oils, in particular, petroleum oils. They would jell or coagulate and start to turn to a solid. However, technology has changed and the base stock formulas have changed, allowing most all oils, like Klotz to be able to intermix without any issues. There are still some “high performance” oils that will not mix readily with other oils and some fuels, but those are in very specialized applications where someone knows what will and will not mix. For you and most all of the readers here, Klotz oil like Amsoil, Torco, Redline, Merc, Quicksilver, and some of the other brand oils will mix with out any issues.
As far as the gear lube and the issue of foaming, it can be an issue in an application of a lower unit. The Klotz synthetic gear lube has an anti foaming agent in it to prevent this. I am not a boat mechanic, and again do not profess to be an expert at anything, but my understanding is the proper fill level is the most important…not underfilled and also not overfilled. Obviously, water intake is also a concern and needs to be addressed right away.
Quality of gear lube – again, my stance on this is you should choose a synthetic lube over a petroleum – whether it is Klotz, Amsoil, Merc, Evinrude, etc., synthetics are going to be a superior lubricating product. They man make synthetics to do what job needs to be done. You are going to get a higher shear strength to hold up to the pounding in that gear box, smoother shifts, better adherence to the gears, and a higher toleration to heat. Use that as a basis and then compare price. Remember, you can price shop between quality products. Did you buy the cheapest boat you could, or one that you felt would hold up to the demands you are going to ask out of it, to give you your money’s worth and last a long time with out wearing out or breaking down. Don’t follow up on your investment by using bottom shelf motor products whether it’s 2 or 4 cycle motor oil or gear lube.
Hope that answers your questions. Thanks again for the order. I just received another 88 gallons of oil today from Klotz and I am sure it won’t stick around long with the inquiries I have gotten from others here on IDA!
Rick
Jay,
DISCLAIMER: I am new to IDA and am not here to insult anyones intellegence, only offer my .02 cents. I do like to put basic info out so everyone knows what I am thinking.
I do not protest to be a know it all either, so feel free to set me straight if I have something abckwrads…
0W-40 is a multi viscosity weight oil. It is made to be like a 0 weight in the cold (thin) and a 40 weight (thick) in the heat. 5 is thicker than 0 and 10 is thicker than 5.
30 is thinner than 40, etc.
Different equipment use different viscosity “ranges” to meet a range of needs. 0W-40 is a wide range oil, giving you a thin oil for cold starting if you use your 700 in the winter and 40 for those hot, summer days when you are working that machine hard – keeping the level of oil protection up.
Heat kills petroleum oil. Synthetics are made to withstand a higher temp load than petroleum oils. One of the first things to go when oil gets hot is the “bands” that hold or make the multi viscosity in oil. The heat breaks those bands and you are left with an oil that is a single viscosity weight, typically on the high end of the range (30-40).
I can tell you that the Klotz ATV oil is formulated different than a car 10w-40 because of the fiber clutches that are used in some ATV’s. The ATV oil does not have some additives in it that would harm those clutches, ultimately shortening the life of them. (don’t view this as a commercial for Klotz, only that I can only speak for that oil because that is what I know for sure – I presume the other ATV specific oils are formulated the same)
You can probably vary from the viscosity range oil that you use, like going to a 10W-40 which might be more readily available to you and you might be able to shop by price having more options that way.
With that said, I will agree that even if you spent 12.00 a quart on oil, for the amount you use in the 700 per year, it is a drop in the preverbial bucket. Don’t go cheap on your motor with .99 cent oil.
Rick
Tams Racing Products
[email protected]