They told me the motor fried. That caused a surge and fried the main circuit board and the steering mechanism. They also said that parts are really hard to get because Minn Kota doesn’t support them after 10 years.
I had one do a similar thing. Steering motor failed and fried the mother board. It was the gen 2 version of the terrova that had spot wander instead of spot lock, so I was happy to replace it. Sold it to a guy for 500 bucks that was going to fix it as he never used spot lock.
Can’t understand why those wires would cause trailer light issues. I’m sure they came like that from the factory.
I did one on my Stratos 326 earlier this year. Mine was cracked on the side that the actuator is on, so I just pulled that half off and replaced it with the same half from the new one. It took me about 20 minutes and 2 beers. If you have to replace the entire valve assembly, it will take longer because you have hoses to remove, as well as a threaded piece of PVC. At least with mine it had a PVC elbow on it, but I didn’t need to deal with it since I only replaced half of it.
I removed the entire bilge access panel because it was the only way to get a big enough opening to get far enough into the bilge to reach everything. It was 8 screws and easy to remove once you tilt the motor down.
Leadcore is very speed and current dependent on your dive curve. Look at where you plan to use it, and the max depth you will likely need, and set up your rods accordingly. My deepest spots are 30 feet, so I typically put 7 colors on my reels and fill the rest with backing. Fishing suspended fish in summer, compared to fishing deep flats or deeper old river channels are different games. I fish a ton of leadcore in spring and fall for eyes, as well as lead for salmon in summer, and they are different games. For both, I run braid backing because it allows you to put more backing on the reel over mono. Mono will work, but IMO you are way better off with braid. Fishing suspended fish, I will run a fluoro leader of about 20 feet, attached to the braid with an albright or willis know. If I’m pounding bottom for eyes, I run an 8 foot leader of 20# braid connected with a small barrel swivel to prevent twist if you pick up a leave or weeds. Nothing ruins leadcore faster than twisting it up from a fouled bait.
Even though you can count colors, colors fade and snags cost you a few feet of core now and then so I prefer a line counter reel. Makes repeating your setup much easier than counting colors, and sometimes, maybe you’ve had a beer or two, and counting colors isn’t super accurate.
For rods, the longer the rod you run, the better they need to be so you can read them, especially if you plan to run small floaters down to 20 feet of water. Not a lot of action in those baits and it can be hard to read what’s happening. 5 foot short rods are much easier to read, and you can get decent rods for 50 bucks. A good 9 foot rod you can read is going to cost you a lot more.
Lead core is a great tool to have in then arsenal, and many days in fall, it saves my guide trips when the jig bite just isn’t going. Clients often say they don’t want to troll, but when you box 10 fish for them in the last hour on a day when the jig bite is tough, they all ask why we didn’t troll more and they all want to know what to buy for lead core setups.
I had Cisco on my last boat and they were great. Not sure what tracks I’ll have on the new boat, whatever warrior uses. IMO, the tracks are all pretty much the same.
Rod trees – I bought some off e-bay from a company out of Minnesota I believe. High Seas gear maybe. They are adjustable up and down the tree, and around the tree, but the angle of the holder is fixed. They were priced well when I bought them and have no regrets.
For dipsy holders, I have both Cisco short cradles as well as tubes. I liked the cradles as it was easy to get the rod out of the holder when a big king was ripping drag, but didn’t like the rod butts sticking into the boat so use the tubes now. I little tougher to pull the rod under load, but in a 20 foot walleye boat, I got tired of rod butt being just below belt level and getting jabbed in the giblets in big water.
<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>Bass Thumb wrote:</div>
<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>DaveB wrote:</div>
Im glad you didn’t say “cut a hole in a box”
You guys will have to explain that one to me.
It’s a Saturday Night Live skit with Justin Timberlake. Richard in a box, but the short form of Richard.
Not sure you will see any oil looking in the tube. The reservoir may be down a foot or more. Not sure on a tiller where it is, but on my wheel boat I can’t see anything either.
Looks like the hydraulic steering reservoir. If that is the case, hydraulic steering fluid would be what you would add.
I had one for a few months to see if it was an alternative option on client rods. Drag wasn’t as smooth as my shimanos, but if you aren’t going to use it daily, it isn’t a bad reel. I gave mine to a kid who was just getting into fishing and had all garage sale reels. I’ll stick with my stradics.
If they are networked via ethernet and not the NMEA network, it should be no problem. I haven’t had a gen 1 in a long time, but you should only have one side imaging transducer, so if you select side imaging on both, you should see the same thing. Sonar you would need to select which transducer you are using if you have one in your TM and a skimmer or thru-hull. There may be some limitations with sharing in the gen 1 units. I remember there being some limitations on what Gen 1 could do, but don’t remember details. Lowrance on-line chat is usually fairly helpful so you could try there.
you can’t have instant anti-reverse on a trigger reel. If you are just before the stop point, the spool has to rotate back almost an entire revolution before it stops if you set the hook without holding the handle. Will lead to a lot of missed fish if you don’t always fish with your hand on the reel handle. Fine reels for beginners or infrequent fisher people, or if you use it for an application where you are always reeling. Most of the trigger reels would fall into the low end for quality as well.
Costco 95% of the time. I like getting them from the local meat market but they charge you at least twice what costco does, and they are typically pretty small, and you usually need to ask ahead of time so they keep a full brisket for you or you are likely to just get a flat.
A 29 and a 28, both post spawn.
29-inch.jpg
28-inch.jpg
Look on ebay. I bought a set from a company in Minnesota or Michigan a couple years back, adjustable triples, for under $400 for the pair.
Alder for Salmon. Cherry, Apple, Pecan or a mix for pork. Hickory for beef with a little mesquite sometimes, but not much as mesquite goes a long way.
Regarding pellets, bad flavors are usually a result of the quality of pellet you use. I have a traeger, as well as an electric cook shack, and a charcoal smoker. Flavors seem the same off each one smoke wise to me, I like them all.
