When my uncle was 32 he bought this boat brand new. I caught one of my first walleyes out of it when I was seven years old. He sold it in 1997 to a family friend. 20 years later I bought it back five days before my 32nd birthday–which was on the fifth.

1992 Lund Pro V 1660 – 1995 Mercury 60hp – original MinnKota trolling motor

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9 feet long according to the website. I haven’t opened my latest adapter cord yet so I can’t confirm that. Even if you had to get one of those female/male extensions I think it’d be worth it. They’ve been fairly awesome for my friends and I.

http://www.engelcoolers.com/coolers/cooler-accessories/cooler-accessories/engel-aerator-pump

icenutz wrote:

If I did not already have the same setup, that’s a good price.

Thanks! That’s what I keep thinking. I wish I lived further north where I could use it.

Thanks a lot for the responses guys. I’ll follow up with some pictures when I get done.

Huntindave wrote:

Just move your winch. Right now the bolts holding the winch are also holding the upper half of the winch post. Remove the winch, add new bolts to hold the winch post in position, them remount the winch using the slot in the upper half of the winch post. You may want to use new bolts, washers and nuts, for all of this.

The only issue might be enough clearance for cranking the winch handle.

You’re all over it. That’s what I was thinking. I think I’ll have enough clearance for the handle but not by much. The trailer may not be set up exactly right (i.e. bow’s a little high) but I’ll deal with that later maybe. Thanks for the help.

milemark_714 wrote:

The bow is too high in the front.The strap should be in a straight line from winch to bow eye.The winch looks like it can’t go any higher.Ideally,drop the front of boat,and the winch stand can be tilted down.Hard to see what the whole set-up on the trailer looks like.

Can the winch stand be moved a little towards the tongue?It almost looks like the rear support rollers/bunks are too low.Boat should be fairly level when fully loaded on trailer.I’ll bet that is a bear to winch it on,with all that pressure on the flat guide roller?Winch strap should be in a straight line from bow eye to winch drum when loading.

Thanks for the reply. I agree, the bow does seem too high to me. Unfortunately there is a crossbar that limits the angle of the bow. But as you said, I could drop the bow a bit if I could raise the rear rollers. I’ve attached a picture of what my trailer looks like. The only difference is there are no front rollers near the front crossbar (I may add them).

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Ah yeah, the old original. Nothing wrong with it but the hush bubbler is considerably quieter. I was surprised. Maybe that’s why it’s twice the price though. I think it’s a good unit. That’s what I’d go with.

Ny,
I’ve used the 13 qt version for several years now. I think it’s fantastic. I use it mainly for open water but I’ve used it on the ice too. The lid seal may freeze, but that can be prevented by a good dose of Vaseline on the seal.

As mentioned above, the bubbler is not super quiet. However, it seems to push a lot of air and it also has a DC power plug. So you can save buying so many D batteries by plugging it in on the boat or to the wall with another adapter when you get home. A quieter option would be the “Hush Bubbles” model by Marine Metal that uses the D batteries. It lasts about five times as long as the tiny, yet super quiet AA version called “Baby Bubbles”.

http://www.marinemetal.com/products/15-3-vt-airpumps/hush-bubbles/item/hush-bubbles

Thanks guys. PM me and we’ll chat.

Yes sir. I hope you find ’em. Best of luck out there. Let me know how it goes.

Sam, good question. I admit, I fish a totally different type of water here in Kansas so I may be of little help. We fish reservoirs that are 4000 to 17000 acres and relatively featureless other than the channel. In winter we catch our biggest fish near the deepest parts of the lake. The key for me is to cruise the channel or even deep flats thoroughly and watch for the truckload of fish to show up on your screen in sub-40 degree water. After marking a school we generally move to the edge and find something sticking up to key on, but sometimes we slow troll double 1/8-ounce jigs in the area.

As for the larger lakes, the prevailing wind direction of the last few days seems to help and the areas which may collect the flow. I’m sure you’re more than aware of that though. I guess I’d plan out a specific route to search, fire up the sidescan and plan on cruising a lot at a decent speed.

Thanks a lot for the response, Kirt. I definitely appreciate your advice. Those will likely be the two I pick from. I see Nav+ is on sale right now too. Sweet.

sktrwx2200 wrote:

Pretty sure I got a Insight HD that I could sell you Ryne. I dont run the lowrance anymore……… let me know if your interested. im sure I could did it up.

Thanks for that. I’ll keep that in mind. What version and region is the chip?

Thanks, Biggill. Do you have the nautic or lake insight HD by chance? I have hot maps premium on another unit and like it pretty well. I like the way the contour lines are laid out.

tpmorgz wrote:

I’ve started fishing a lake where the primary structure is fallen timber and brush. I am curious what others use in regards to jig head style and brand for this application.

Thanks.

Great question. I’ve fished in flooded timber my whole life and the key is to work vertically. Slip bobbers or dipping with ten foot rods are great methods. You can get by sometimes casting very light (1/32 ounce) jigs through select stands of trees but it doesn’t take too many lost jigs to make you quit.

These are the jig heads I’d recommend giving a try. Good luck!

http://www.quiksetjigs.com/

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puddlepounder wrote:

Tie it to the handle, if you forget and take off the handle will pull out and the bucket will float. Simply go back and pick it up and reinstall the wire handle. You most likely will have to bend it back into form so have some pliers handy. You will not loose any steering control using buckets as you do using a drift sock or a trolling plate. I don’t have holes in the bottom of the bucket because I use them for minnows, leeches and other things. You don’t have to modify the bucket in any way. I run mine off of the two front cleats with about a 4′ to 5′ lead. Pulling the bucket out is simple also, just tip out backwards and let the water run out. If your boat has bench seats and no cleats on the gunwale maybe you can tie off to a seat support? Don’t waist your money on a trolling plate. 1/4″ parachute cord works just fine as a tether

Thanks a lot for the help. I look forward to trying this.

Great ideas. Thanks guys. I figured I’d be enlightened.

I think the bucket technique may work for him. Does it affect steering much? There’s no front trolling motor.

Like hjnacht asked, what are some of the modifications, if any, that you make to the bucket?

Great idea. I’ve been thinking about this lately too. Nice work and thanks for sharing!

Thanks for the report, Phil. Good info. Best of luck out there.

Jim, I own the LX-5i so I won’t be much help. Some of these guys will get you squared away though I’m sure. Here’s a place to start:

https://www.in-depthoutdoors.com/community/forums/topic/ice_1318451/

There’s been a lot of talk about that issue. You may know already, but you can search the forums for key words in the search bar below “Recent Reports” on the middle left part of the forum screen.

Hope this helps. Good luck.

munchy wrote:

That sounds like about 75% of my times on the water.

If there is warmer water flowing into this lake they were probably near there.

Dang. Sorry to hear that. I certainly have my share of bad days, but some are pretty good. Having some ice around is just weird. There’s really not any inflow of warm water–but I like that idea. Thanks.

hop307 wrote:

Looked like a blast on light tackle.

It really was. Totally unexpected. We didn’t know the fish existed until about an hour before it was caught. The owner had come down and told us. Pretty cool.

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Ok guys, I tried several ideas last night to make the lid easier to remove. Here are the results (in chronological order):

1. Tried the rope handle with knots on the end through the hole: even worse, wouldn’t open at all.
2. Cut two slits on opposite sides of bucket: no change in difficulty to remove
3. Cut four slits on opposite sides of bucket: No change
4. Cut two slits on opposite sides of lid (*along w/ slits from above): slightly easier to remove
5. Cut four slits on opposite sides of lid*: even easier to remove
6. Wiped both pieces with WD-40*: MUCH easier to remove!

So there you have it. I wouldn’t say it’s a huge difference–but definitely noticeable. Thanks for the input guys. Good luck out there and have a great ice season.

That’s fantastic, Tim. It’s great to see hard work and attention to detail pay off so well. Awesome.

Navionics. Totally worth it. I’d also recommend the $5 upgrade which gives you more features and customization options. I’ve found it to be pretty accurate for the lakes I’ve been on.

http://www.navionics.com/en/mobile-pc-app-1

evobassfish wrote:

Does anyone with the new lx5i know if it has the same issue in shallow water as the lx6 and 7 has? I understand there is a new update coming to fix this issue.

I have the new LX-5i and it’s amazing. I used it in 5 feet of water last weekend and it was fantastic. I haven’t used the LX6 or 7 to know the exact issues you’re talking about, but I have no complaints whatsoever. I’d highly recommend the LX-5i. The zoom feature is unreal.

Great looking fish. They’ve obviously held a lot of big fish before. Good job guys. Thanks for sharing, Nick.

loonswail, yes that’s what I’m talking about! You are not alone sir! Is that not crazy?! And of course I’m always in a hurry when trying to get into the bucket.

Bassn Dan, thanks for the ideas. I could try different buckets to find a good fit. Unfortunately I’ve got several of the same type, the mass-produced orange ones from the hardware store that everyone probably knows.

Michael, you may win the internet on this one. It’s not until now I noticed a hole in the lid. I wonder if it’s to be used for exactly what you described. I’ll test it out sometime tomorrow and let you guys know if it works. If it doesn’t work, I’ll do a little grinding and cutting, CBMN. Thanks guys.

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Tabs would be convenient. Unfortunately, the inside lip is just a single, uniform bump that’s continuous around the whole thing. At least it’s nearly water tight I guess. My frustration might be reduced a bit if I get to cut some notches in this thing.

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