Yep good spot, do the quarter level test.
Sounds good. And will it be necessary to re install the 2D sonar if I just want to pick up depth while moving at speed or will the MSI ducer be able to do that? I’m getting mixed reports everywhere I look.
Side to side = yes good place, under side of the boat I’d look out for chine ribs and rivet lines.
Would these rivets be to the side enough?
They both only have a red and black wire, so snip away.
One is 18 gauge and the other is 16 apparently. Will that matter?
It looks like interference to me. Do you have interference on both displays?
I think there may be a Chirp IR (Interference Reject) setting under “sonar” that can be adjusted and it may help. If not there may be a noise reject setting under sonar that may help.
Either way, look for interference reject or noise reject settings under “sonar” and try adjusting them.
Ah, I’ll have to check that out. Thank you!
Do not wire it directly, if you do it will be always drawing power.
I really do not care what brand but something like this can do you well and easy peasy right behind your main power switch. Use a test light as there will be a always hot, a switched hot and a neutral leads on the back of the accessory switch.
Pardon my ignorance but what did your last sentence mean? I think I may take a picture of the back of my switch/fuse panel and see if you can point out where I can piggy back to
I had originally planned on re-using the MK-16-1 slide mount that i had for my powerdrive but the cables from the motor head would not let the motor to slide all the way out before becoming tight. I opted to go with minn kotas MK-21 mount . It has a approximately 4″x7″ carbon block that mounts to the deck with 4 screws and locknuts. the motor has a piece that mounts to the bottom of it. then you just set the motor over the block and a u shaped handle slides thru both pieces holding it all together. The box it comes in has a cut out mounting template inside of it to help position it and mark the holes for drilling.
Sorry nevermind I’m a dummy. I looked it up, that’s definitely a great option if I can’t mount directly to the boat. Thanks for the help!
I had originally planned on re-using the MK-16-1 slide mount that i had for my powerdrive but the cables from the motor head would not let the motor to slide all the way out before becoming tight. I opted to go with minn kotas MK-21 mount . It has a approximately 4″x7″ carbon block that mounts to the deck with 4 screws and locknuts. the motor has a piece that mounts to the bottom of it. then you just set the motor over the block and a u shaped handle slides thru both pieces holding it all together. The box it comes in has a cut out mounting template inside of it to help position it and mark the holes for drilling.
So essentially, the bracket is just a solid piece on top and the motor can mount to it at any position?
I just installed a new terrova on my boat last weekend. after reviewing your pictures yours looks like a walk in the park compared to what i had to deal with. are you planning to mount it directly to the deck of the boat or are you going to use a removable mount.
I was planning on mounting directly unless getting a removable mount would end up working better. I’m not sure how they work or if the mounting pattern of the mount that attaches to the boat is different than the pattern where the motor attaches to the mount.
For the power it is plug and go. You will have to connect the motor to your graph for the transducer features.
Excellent, thank you
Just retired – just getting back online. Originally thought the cost was to be $6-7 k because they could not just replace one side. Turns out the parts manager knows his stuff. Just got a check from the insurance company yesterday. My $500 deductible is only $350 because of no accidents and total cost is $849 according to the invoice Rapid MArine sent to the insurance guy.
12-14 weeks out from July 5th.
I will send some pics of how I cobbled it in the interim when I get on the water in the morning. Luckily mostly bass fishing so not a lot of 20+ MPH on the water. Soon as Canada opens up though it will be a different story if the weather is bad.
What year/model/boat do you have?
Sounds like
$1200
-869
_______
$ 331Would there be any extra shipping charges? I’d give the dealer a call.
I did and they just got back to me. He showed me the email from Lund, the dealer price is 869 and msrp is actually 1298.46 before tax and shipping. The other dealership just quoted me the dealer cost. And he said they have never replaced glass on this specific boat so they quoted me 4-5 hours but “it very likely could be around two hours”.
I can live with this. Especially since i really have no other choice since the next closest dealership is out of state 5 hours away.
Well I contacted 4 different Lund dealerships across the country. One just got back to me and they said the price was $869 for the windshield.
I’m trying to figure out how much of a ridiculous markup my dealership is making when they just charged me 1200…
Just saw this. My 2019 Impact had its drivers side window smashed at Home Depot. Long story short police report, nothing visible on Home Depot cameras, $1,100 to fix
$500 boat insurance deductible
12-14 weeks out as of July 5 here in Minnesota
Wonder how yours was so cheap. Did you go through your dealership? My window alone from fender was 1500 after tax and shipping.
<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>Jared wrote:</div>
I’m confused why I was quoted 5 hours of labor at 125 an hour. It looks like a few screws is all the holds up the windshield frame. This job really takes 5 hours to do?The dealer may be seeing this as an “insurance”job?
HRG
That’s what I was thinking. My neighbor went and immediately paid in cash, 1500 for the windshield. She says the insurance company is gonna pay her back and she didn’t want me having to wait since it’s already gonna take ten weeks. Which I totally appreciated but I’m getting the vibe that they don’t want to use insurance.
So when it comes time to get the windshield put in, I’m anxious to see how that is going to go down.
I’m confused why I was quoted 5 hours of labor at 125 an hour. It looks like a few screws is all the holds up the windshield frame. This job really takes 5 hours to do?
looks like your cover got ripped too in the process? or was that already there?
It ripped about a 3 inch slit directly where it hit the window. At first we didn’t think anything happened and we got lucky. Then I heard the glass falling inside the boat and knew exactly what it was. So I grabbed the slit and ripped it open out of frustration. I already replaced it though.
Gonna be fun riding around with no windshield for possibly the next 4 months
Call Taylor-made directly (they should be the ones who made it). See if you can buy from them.
I did. They said because of their “exclusive deal” with Lund, they couldn’t even give me a price over the phone, let alone ship it directly to me.
I love rackets. I wonder if tracker has this same BS. Might go with them or alumacraft for my next boat.
So you are at $2k plus your insurance won’t go after the other guy. It will lay on your record so…………………
Huh? I just talked to my insurance. They said the best option is for my neighbor to file a liability claim with his homeowners insurance. That way no one pays anything out of pocket. Or, if he doesn’t want to do that, I claim it, pay the deductible and then my insurance goes to his insurance and has them pay me back for the deductible. Ya, that would be a claim on my record. But either way, no one is paying out of pocket.
Confused why you said my insurance won’t go after his when that’s exactly what my insurance said they will do if he doesn’t want to file the liability claim with his HOI
Ya my insurance called me and said that’s what they should do. And if they don’t, I will have to claim it, pay the 1k deductible and then they will go after their insurance and make them pay me back the deductible. So either way, sounds like no one is paying out of pocket which is good. I’d hate to ruin relationships with neighbors over something stupid and I was gonna even offer to split it.
But you guys were right. It’s insanely expensive and complete BS. Here is the email I just got from my dealership:
Hello,
Starboard windshield #2346820 retails at $1,299 plus $100 shipping.
Does have to be made as they do not stock only one side. 10 week lead
time. As for install you are looking at an estimate of 4-5 hours for
install and we do charge $125 an hour.
They are pretty easy to replace if the dealer is backed up too much. Last I heard they were 1500-2000 but that was a few years ago.
Then we’d be better off going through insurance. I’d almost feel bad making him pay 2k for a freak accident like this.
Why is there only 1 dealership in all of California that can work on it? This should be a current part, also used on the 21/22 Rebel XL, so any Lund dealer should be able to get the part and replace it.
Or, are you saying that there is only 1 Lund dealer in Cali?
HRG
Correct, only one Lund dealership in my area. There’s actually two in California but the other one is like 12 hours away. And any kind of work takes them for.ev.errrr.
24SM battery is at the back of the boat.
3 batteries total and a 3 bank charger.
When he talked to me about fuses this was the only area he directed me to. Said that that’s where my fuses were located
PXL_20201205_184138950.jpg
2020 rebel XL 1650 sport
Located in southern California. The dealership did an hour long walk through with me and explained every single little thing about the boat to me. But since I’m new, a lot of it was over my head and I can’t remember what he specifically said about the wiring. I contacted them but it’s been a few days so I’m still waiting to hear back.
The helm has a bunch of fuses under all the switches which I assume is for anything electronic. Would that be the same?
Ya everything was dealer installed. I am brand new to boating and know very little so I try not to mess with anything until I know for sure what I’m doing.
So when you say it’s pre wired for ACC, would that included a fish finder? I’ve never wired one before so I’m not even sure if the black and red/purple wires would be for a fish finder or not. The other thing that is confusing me is that I have 3 batteries. The one in the picture I believe is purely for the 24v trolling motor. Behind that in the next compartment is a 3 bank charger and another battery (which I think is a cranking battery). Then in the back is the 3rd battery which I think is for the fish finder.
Here are pictures of the other two batteries
PXL_20201205_180238606.jpg
PXL_20201205_180125438.jpg
Was it raining or wet at all?? Is there any water in the bilge when you pull the plug?
On your next trip I’d keep the hatch open and have someone watch inside while doing various maneuvers to see if you can tell where the water may be entering the compartment. That should help narrow it down a bit.
No rain and no water in the bilge. I’ll have someone monitor it the next time we go out
