merry X-mass!!

They work good until the shaft gets totally destroyed. Also used them all scraped up with fur missing. #5 Black Flury Yellow Dot. They work for me in the summer.

Actually I wasn’t concerned with the size of the fish.

But would the braid be stressed while casting “upon the clicking closed of the bail” when using 20# test Sufix and Jerkbaits up to 3.3 oz. Dutchboy addressed this concern.

Again thank you just provided for clarity,

Thanks for the info guys, Not to get off topic however other than storing your hook in the guide (big nono) what can cause a guide to deteriorate?

I have had the rare pike get stuck in the weeds, but usually by the time the weeds are thick the bigger fish are usually off the deep edge of the weed line or drop off in 12 to 20+ FOW and the fight is in open water.

My main concern was would 20# braid (Sufix) break when casting baits up to 3.3 oz.

I got a nice moderately heavy fast action 8′ rod for the job from St Croix.

Thank you

Simple best bang for your buck Interstate = SRM-29, they are flooded but I’ve never had to add water. And it won’t cost you $200 or $300.

Some more

Have you tried the Musky Shop? Claim to be the worlds largest.

https://www.muskyshop.com/modules/web/index.php/id/1

I like a bit heavier rod at say 7 1/2′, rated at 1/2 to 2 oz like to throw slightly bigger jerkbaits, swimbaits and such. Seem to get more larger pike and fewer hammer handles. I use 20 pound Sufix 832 with a 60# Seaguar leader. Never had much luck with bucktails or spoons in the local heavily fished waters for the nicer pike.

I find the fish like the smaller baits due to the fact the much of the forage base is immature and smaller in the spring

When I buy the motor I think I’m going to go with electric start and power trim. I’m not getting any younger.
Thanks

SuperDave1959 wrote:

joc, bending over the back of the boat wrestling a manual tilt is way harder on an old back as well as flat out dangerous if done on the water. My comment was meant to say that I’d never buy a motor, electric start or manual start if it didn’t have a power tilt/trim.

Thanks for the tip.

SuperDave1959 wrote:

Rope start is one thing but if it doesn’t have the auto trim, that would be a deal breaker vs. electric start for me.

Not sure what you mean by: auto trim would be the deal breaker? Is this your way of saying that you don’t recommend manual tilt? Not sure where your coming from. Very few tiller driven F20’s have power trim, but power tilt / electric start is common.

Not all braids are created equal. Sufix 832 is tops: no memory, doesn’t fray and cast great. I’ve used Spider line and Fireline not so hot. I always use a 12″ to 18″ fluorocarbon leader on the end between the braid and the bait. As for mono backing, of course this Sufix 832 is expensive and we don’t want it to slip on the spool as well.

Hi all so it sounds like you guys prefer the soft swimbaits. I noticed that swimbaits can come in both soft and hard varieties.
Thanks for the input

What are you guys looking for prescription polarized sunglasses?

Since I wear prescription glasses I use sunglasses that just slip over my regular glasses. Hey they are polarized and have protection on the sides as well all for around $30. I guess with the price of poles, reels, and large baits for toothy critters I can only buy so much. Just letting you however that you can get some nice sunglasses for a fairly cheap price. Not sure that helps much, bit they work great for me.

bigstorm wrote:

My Symetre was pretty much new and the friction disk would cause the reel to seize up, I saw this on 2 Symetres that were new. You could get a new friction disk from Shimano (for a price)

If you bought it new it they should have fixed it for free for 1 year after purchase? Why pay money when they can fix it for free?

pale ryder wrote:

The rod, reel, and line need to match the lures and technique more so than the size of the fish.
For casting 1/2 to 1+ oz. pike lures I’d use a 7′-7-1/2′ medium heavy fast or moderate-fast spinning rod with 20 lb Sufix 832. If I had to use spinning rods. For me spinning rods over 7-1/2′ don’t balance right.

I agree but 1 oz. baits are often insufficient for larger pike (at least where I fish). Heavier rods tend to run a bit longer say 8′ or longer and are needed to toss (3 to 4+) oz. baits. If you google Musky rods you’ll find very few under 8′ (although quite a few at 8′), regardless of manufacturer. This is true of both spinning and bait casting rods.

When you go to buy the new reel bring the old one that feels good with you so you can compare the 2 at the same time.

I was very disappointed with the new Shimano Stradic, it broke while reeling in a nice fish less than 3 weeks after buying the thing. Took Shimano > 3 weeks to get it back from Shimano so save your sales receipt.

When I went back to by a 2nd reel I bought a Shimano Symetre. Great reel for around $100, got it on-line for about $90 after examining it at the store. I don’t know how it will hold up over time, but I greatly prefer it to the Stadic at (too much money).

Why the length requirement? I have med-heavy to heavy spinning rods from 7 1/2′ to 8′ specifically for pike , tigers and regular musky. You’ll do fine with 7 1/2′ or 8′. And don’t waste $200, unless you got money to burn.

plain old fish-finder. Know my waters well enough don’t need GPS.

Don’t think I’d like the stereo in the boat. My favorite sound is the breeze and the waves gentle hitting the side of the boat, nature.

What price range? All the ones I’ve looked at > $200 yikes.

In NYS I think for the my area they do a great job as good as could be expected.

bigpike wrote:

Very nice. Keep moving up the ladder! !!

I’ve got some much larger, but am happy with any pike up to and over 34″.

Swiss army best all around and most versatile.

Glad you are blessed with the improvement

Good Job

medium heavy for dead sticking jerkbaits for pike – walleye

May God bless her and heal her

Each make and model number of outboard has an optimum prop pitch for the prop for which the motors RPM can be optimized for optimum speed when combined with the boat it’s being used on.

In general the speed difference isn’t great. But a new prop with the correct pitch when combined with a motor tuned for the right RPM’s in the boat it’s used on can add a slight bit of speed.

Hope that helps. Had it done to mine this summer added a little over 1 mph

Can you contact an area dealer who specializes in Mercury outboards in about the prop and possible tuning?