Yes, I have some fox-calling experience. Been at it for over 15-years. So here goes..,

For starters, I am assuming that you are calling at night? In MN, we can call at night, but cannot use lights, that means that you are calling under the moon, and over snow. Use a scope, even if you are shooting a shotgun. It gives much better definition, especially if the fox responds, but stops in the shadows. And most IMPORTANT of all, you MUST use the wind. If you are an experienced coyote-caller, you know that.

Now to the foxes. The gray will be the easiest of the two for you to call. They are really fearless little critters compared to a red. To sucker them in, use an electronic call, and use a “gray-fox pup”, “gray-fox fight” or a “red fox-gray fox fight”. If they haven’t been called to death, you will certainly call them in with one of these calls. I have had them literally run right past me, full tilt, and bury their heads in the speaker. You simply cannot mess this one up.

Now to the red-fox. A completely and totally different critter than the gray. They are very cautious. “Smart as a fox” really should be stated “chicken as a fox”. And with a strong population of coyotes, the red is even less prone to run in, as he doesn’t want to become the main-course on tonights menu. But they can still be had. Again, use your electronic caller, and use high-pitched distress sounds such as rodents or birds, even baby-cottontails. You will need to be extremely cautious when and where you set up. I can almost assure you that this critter will circle downwind. So give him an easy way to do this. Set up your electronic caller about 50-yards upwind of a fenceline, in a slough, turn it on, then you hustle back to that fenceline downwind of the call. You pop him as he trots downwind of the sounds, as he comes along the fenceline. Use an old farm-road or logging road the same as a fenceline.

If you have a buddy, then double-teaming them is most effective. One guy stays at the call, the other posts downwind. Make dang sure that your buddy is a knowledgeable hunter and stays where he is supposed to. Otherwise, this is a dangerous situation if he moves, and you don’t see him.

There you have it. You should be able to kill both of these critters in a couple nights of calling, if conditions are prime.

Have fun.., and BE SAFE!!!!!

Yes, I have some fox-calling experience. Been at it for over 15-years. So here goes..,

For starters, I am assuming that you are calling at night? In MN, we can call at night, but cannot use lights, that means that you are calling under the moon, and over snow. Use a scope, even if you are shooting a shotgun. It gives much better definition, especially if the fox responds, but stops in the shadows. And most IMPORTANT of all, you MUST use the wind. If you are an experienced coyote-caller, you know that.

Now to the foxes. The gray will be the easiest of the two for you to call. They are really fearless little critters compared to a red. To sucker them in, use an electronic call, and use a “gray-fox pup”, “gray-fox fight” or a “red fox-gray fox fight”. If they haven’t been called to death, you will certainly call them in with one of these calls. I have had them literally run right past me, full tilt, and bury their heads in the speaker. You simply cannot mess this one up.

Now to the red-fox. A completely and totally different critter than the gray. They are very cautious. “Smart as a fox” really should be stated “chicken as a fox”. And with a strong population of coyotes, the red is even less prone to run in, as he doesn’t want to become the main-course on tonights menu. But they can still be had. Again, use your electronic caller, and use high-pitched distress sounds such as rodents or birds, even baby-cottontails. You will need to be extremely cautious when and where you set up. I can almost assure you that this critter will circle downwind. So give him an easy way to do this. Set up your electronic caller about 50-yards upwind of a fenceline, in a slough, turn it on, then you hustle back to that fenceline downwind of the call. You pop him as he trots downwind of the sounds, as he comes along the fenceline. Use an old farm-road or logging road the same as a fenceline.

If you have a buddy, then double-teaming them is most effective. One guy stays at the call, the other posts downwind. Make dang sure that your buddy is a knowledgeable hunter and stays where he is supposed to. Otherwise, this is a dangerous situation if he moves, and you don’t see him.

There you have it. You should be able to kill both of these critters in a couple nights of calling, if conditions are prime.

Have fun.., and BE SAFE!!!!!

Fish..,

Go to the Remington website, and view the video clip they have in which they hang a metal plate, and then commence to shoot it first with steel-shot, in which it only dents it, then, from the same spot, they shoot it with the same sized shot in Hevi-shot. Just about rips that plate off it’s hanger, and completely blows through it.
Now, having said that, I have shot the stuff on turkeys. Then used those left-overs on ducks. Yup…, it smacks ’em DOA.
However, I refuse to pay that money for those shells. My reasoning??? If I cannot kill a duck or goose with a quality, high-velocity steel load, then in my opinion, that duck/goose is a looooong ways off, and doesn’t deserve to be poked at. A pellet in the guts from steel, tungsten, bismuth, hevi…, whatever…, is a pellet in the guts.., and a dead bird that sails off never to be recovered. Remember, you need pattern density to kill a bird. I am quite sure that a #4 Hevi-shot pellet hitting a bird in the right spot, would probably fold a mallard at 60-yards or more. But can anyone state that they can put that pellet in a vital area, at that range??? I don’t think so. You only have so many pellets in a shell.., and a weak pattern is a weak pattern, irregardless of what we shoot at ’em.
A duck or goose in range can only be killed so dead. Killing them “deader” than they need to be is a waste of money.
Just my thoughts. Way too spendy, and in the wrong hands, (not implying your hands), they are true promoters of sky-busting. And that was something that went way down when only steel was available, as people seen the futility in it. (No, it didn’t go away completely, but it did decrease). With the “new” loads available now, I personally see sky-busting returning.
If it gives you confidence, and you can afford it, by all means use it. If you can’t or don’t, you won’t miss out on any less enjoyment of the hunt.

Fish..,

Go to the Remington website, and view the video clip they have in which they hang a metal plate, and then commence to shoot it first with steel-shot, in which it only dents it, then, from the same spot, they shoot it with the same sized shot in Hevi-shot. Just about rips that plate off it’s hanger, and completely blows through it.
Now, having said that, I have shot the stuff on turkeys. Then used those left-overs on ducks. Yup…, it smacks ’em DOA.
However, I refuse to pay that money for those shells. My reasoning??? If I cannot kill a duck or goose with a quality, high-velocity steel load, then in my opinion, that duck/goose is a looooong ways off, and doesn’t deserve to be poked at. A pellet in the guts from steel, tungsten, bismuth, hevi…, whatever…, is a pellet in the guts.., and a dead bird that sails off never to be recovered. Remember, you need pattern density to kill a bird. I am quite sure that a #4 Hevi-shot pellet hitting a bird in the right spot, would probably fold a mallard at 60-yards or more. But can anyone state that they can put that pellet in a vital area, at that range??? I don’t think so. You only have so many pellets in a shell.., and a weak pattern is a weak pattern, irregardless of what we shoot at ’em.
A duck or goose in range can only be killed so dead. Killing them “deader” than they need to be is a waste of money.
Just my thoughts. Way too spendy, and in the wrong hands, (not implying your hands), they are true promoters of sky-busting. And that was something that went way down when only steel was available, as people seen the futility in it. (No, it didn’t go away completely, but it did decrease). With the “new” loads available now, I personally see sky-busting returning.
If it gives you confidence, and you can afford it, by all means use it. If you can’t or don’t, you won’t miss out on any less enjoyment of the hunt.

Fishahollik,

I have a large farm pond that I really do well goose hunting on. Trouble with it is.., it’s like trying to hide on a pool table. We fool quite a few of them with grassed in layout blinds, but we can’t get by with more than a couple hunters, as multiple layout blinds look to funky to the honkers. So I contacted the DNR about building a permanent blind. (Keep in mind, this is a totally private farm pond). I was told, by multiple DNR officials, that a blind in the water could only be built if there was already sufficient vegetation to partially conceal a boat.
So if your area doesn’t already have enough NATURAL vegetation to partially conceal a boat.., you may be about to do something illegal.., and as such.., you could get cited. Worst thing about all of this.., it is totally open to the discretion of the CO. If there is a little existing vegetation, one CO may never question your blind.., the other could insist that there doesn’t exist enough natural vegetation, and could hand you a ticket.
I would contact a local CO, one that knows the spot you are talking about, and get his opinion. If he agrees, you could always use that in discussing it with any other CO that wants to make an issue out of it.
I hope this helps!!!!!!

Fishahollik,

I have a large farm pond that I really do well goose hunting on. Trouble with it is.., it’s like trying to hide on a pool table. We fool quite a few of them with grassed in layout blinds, but we can’t get by with more than a couple hunters, as multiple layout blinds look to funky to the honkers. So I contacted the DNR about building a permanent blind. (Keep in mind, this is a totally private farm pond). I was told, by multiple DNR officials, that a blind in the water could only be built if there was already sufficient vegetation to partially conceal a boat.
So if your area doesn’t already have enough NATURAL vegetation to partially conceal a boat.., you may be about to do something illegal.., and as such.., you could get cited. Worst thing about all of this.., it is totally open to the discretion of the CO. If there is a little existing vegetation, one CO may never question your blind.., the other could insist that there doesn’t exist enough natural vegetation, and could hand you a ticket.
I would contact a local CO, one that knows the spot you are talking about, and get his opinion. If he agrees, you could always use that in discussing it with any other CO that wants to make an issue out of it.
I hope this helps!!!!!!