Yep tried that, but the bag still does not want to close decent. The zipper rubs on the edge of the unit and scratches it up.

So I called Garmin, they think it is OK to have it like this. So I guess I deal with it or return it. They sent the return info and form, but I think I may try it on the ice first this weekend and see from there which way I go.

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The end of the connector right now rests right on top of the battery. If I force rotating upward, there will be a lot of strain on wire coming out. The battery should be moved back about 1/2″ and it would have been fine.

I will give Garmin a call tomorrow. Probably need the large bag instead of the small bag. Not sure why they give you the small bag incase you want to upgrade to the Panoptix and such down the road.

What is this Cabela’s you all are talking about? Just kidding! They are now just a mere image of what they were! Their product is no longer what it used to be. Their clothing was top notch. Scheel’s, Reed’s, and L&M Fleet are my go to stores now! I am very thankful that L&M opened a great store in TRF!

I bought my 2010 1725 Rebel Sport from Rapid Marine in St. Cloud new in 2011. They were great to deal with. As for service, I have only had to take mine in once so far, and that was at Ray’s Marine in Bemidji (lake place is there). No problems there either.

Fishermen’s Corner, but today they are all sold.

If it’s online, it is not really a cave then is it?

1. Cold
2. Free
3. Open

I got the same deal as fishingdm and going from gas to these, wow! Makes great sense. I was planning on the new Stihl cordless stuff, but after talking to the salesman I went with Milwaukee as the batteries can be used in 100’s of different tools! A couple chargers, a few battery packs, and a whole slew of Milwaukee M18 tools!

Best thing to happen to me since I met my wife! LOL

What is the sq. footage of ice coverage? Looks kind of small once you have a chair, heater and such?

I use my HDS-5 for ice fishing. I purchased the Lowrance ice pack that came with everything I needed to make it work for the ice. You will need to play around with the settings some to get it how you prefer. I actually prefer this type of screen and able to see the history so to speak of the action over my Marcum.

So far, I have only set my lodge up in my shop. I am 6′ tall and I can stand right next to the tub where the ceiling is at it’s highest point and not touch. That is after I installed the hyfax (probably another 1″ in height added) and with the bars in the lowest of the two settings (probably about another 1″ to gain). I did not notice that the side doors are too tight, they seemed to open and close just fine.

Just for your info, I know the new L&M Fleet in Thief River Falls, has the resort for $200 more than the lodge I just purchased for the price in my previous post. Not sure where your located, but their other stores should be the same price as well.

I picked up a new Pro Lodge XT X-over at L&M Fleet for $799.99 Best price around on any brand of fish houses I have seen. Hopefully will get to try it out on Thursday, but looks like a nice winter storm headed this way.

I already got my bill, just shy of $15,000 for a 20 minute ride!

Hope you are alright joe_the_fisher and djshannon!

Funny, I was thinking the same thing. Last Friday I went to local ER with chest pain and shortness of breath here in TRF. They called the dr. in Grand Forks and they wanted me transferred, but local ambulance service only had one crew on shift so they had to call the Med Flight in from Fargo to Thief River Falls, then brought me to Grand Forks. I can only imagine I have met my deductible already!

Bummer part was I supposed to meet some buddies for a fishing trip last weekend. All is OK as it was nothing as of yet, but still doing a bunch of tests to determine what it was.

Emerson, I had the same issue with the first XTH Pro Resort I bought this year, but on both doors. One door had about 12″ of double stitching on a door zipper that was not even on the zipper. The door walls would pop in if you didn’t anchor them and then when anchored, you could shut them. Replacement Otter sent me was better, but the pockets where the poles go into area all frayed and tearing where they cut the “V” into them, they did not melt the webbing after cutting the “V”.

Lots of people fish the river here, summer and winter. With the Red Lake River feeding from Lower Red Lake there are lots of nice size walleyes here and also some dandy northerns. A local club recently stocked the river in town with a bunch of crappies and walleyes too!

You know, no matter how idiot proof you try to make things. They just keep making smarter idiots!

Update: Well I got the replacement today. I set it up in the garage this evening and everything looked
great and the doors zipped shut and the walls stayed put. That was until I noticed the pockets in the lower corner where the fiberglass rods set into. Should they look like this? All but 2 of them so that is 10 out of 12 look like they have frayed and split down lower than the 2 that have the edges melted to keep them from fraying? Really starting to question the quality of this shelter and if these will continue to tear downwards. First photo is one of the good ones and the second photo is what the frayed ones look like.

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Otter got back to me today and they sent me a UPS label to ship it back and will ship me a new one. Hopefully the next one works!!

It didn’t really show well before, but you can see in this photo that the bottom pole is actually bent inwards and not pushing out on the wall when the the door is zipped shut. You can also see the strain on the zipper with light showing through the circled area. This is the same on both doors. If you slightly touch either wall (with doors) at all they will pop in, and if you were to anchor the wall (which I did not get any anchors), you would not be able to zip the door shut.

I think I will return this shelter to the store where I bought it and keep looking for something better. I have only owned Clam suitcase styles before and so far not impressed with the hub design. Tub shelters are just too heavy and not roomy enough for my family. I would need two of them and then the transporting and just the cost for 2 decent ones is out of my reach at the moment.

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Thanks for the info guys! I have contacted Otter about this and hope to hear back soon. Here are some photos of what I am talking about. You will notice the hub rods and how they sit when the doors are shut. And when I can get it zipped the bottom zipper on each door skips teeth. I don’t believe that will be good or last long.

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Here is mine. 2010 Lund Rebel 1725XL Sport.

Why would the remote need a LCD screen? You already have one, two, or more screens on the boat.

I hope this will work out well. I was thinking of upgrading my trolling motor next spring, and currently have Lowrance units, so this is good for guys like me, only now I have to upgrade to Gen 2 units.

Contacted Lowrance and they want me to send back the box and the transducer.

Wish this could be done with the Gen 1 units!

The boat is a 2010 Lund 1725 Rebel XL Sport.

A little more digging. The trim sender is grounded to the lower unit/cowling, which is NOT grounded to the power head, which is grounded to the battery.

The lower unit/cowling is grounded to the hull, the power head is not.

Does any of this make sense? It really is starting to make me wonder why connecting a trim gauge is so hard.

If I move the ground of the trim sender to the powerhead, everything is OK. I just need to solder a longer wire to the ground lead of the sender and run it with the BRN/WHT wire into the cowling and pick a location on the powerhead to ground too.

It would have been much easier had Mercury just ran both of the wires of the sender into the cowling and connected the BLK wire to a ground in the harness.

That is exactly how I wired the gauge, but it will not work that way. I have to ground the battery to the hull in order for it to work. The negative battery terminal is isolated from the trim sending unit ground wire. Any bolt on the motor is grounded to the hull and does not have continuity to the negative battery post.

Just connect what?

Is the battery supposed to be grounded to the motor or hull?

If I connect the trim gauge only to the battery ground, it does not work. I have to ground the gauge to the motor or hull to get it to work properly. Or ground the battery to the motor/hull and it works.

Check this out!

http://stcloud.craigslist.org/bod/3689603233.html

$795 for HDS5 gen 1 with structure scan LSS-1. Not a bad deal at all.