I used Pledge for years on motor covers, snowmobile hoods and my bike tank that I had done up in flames with 17 coats of House of Kolors laquer. That being said, I won’t touch it anymore, it was good for quick touch-ups but turned blotchy very quickly. Plain old Meguiers 1-2-3(cleaner,polish,carnuba) system works fine for me.
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I may get slammed by a few Basketball player, but I believe Wrestling (not the WWF) should be ranked higher….especially in speed and agility!
I’m also just happy to see Fishing as a sport…Suppose with all the $ in it now it has to be. To me its more a mental sprort like chess.
oooops
meant ditto wrestling
ditto
Post deleted by ecnook
From boatsetup.com
Carbed Motor Decarbonize Procedure
By Rowdy
Updated 01/03/04
Required materials:
1. Engine Tuner Cleaner part# 771297
2. BMCA Fuel System Cleaner part# 772031
Optional materials (recommended):
1. BMCA Carbon Guard part# 772048
2. Oil tank filter screen part#174377
I use 1 spray can of Engine Tuner Cleaner for each cylinder (a V6 would get 6 cans). I recommend adding BMCA Fuel System Cleaner before starting the decarb treatment. Each bottle will treat from 12-20 gals. The 20 gal mix ratio would be for a routine treatment but we want to mix it to the 12 gal mix ratio, so buy how ever many bottles needed for your fuel capacity. If you have 24 gals of fuel on board at time of doing this, slug her with 2 bottles of the Fuel System Cleaner. Get that in there before you start the process and get it shook up well in the fuel by driving around the block towing the boat. This would also be a good time to start to use the BMCA Carbon Guard in the fuel to help keep the carbon from building so quickly. If you choose to, one bottle treats 96 gals of fuel, so mix it to how much fuel you have and then add as necessary when you refuel.
Oil is the next thing to consider. This would be a great time to start the use of the Ficht Ram oil as well if you have not done so. It has carb-X in it and is a better oil than the plain TCWIII oil. You should drain the oil tank and check it once a season for crud that could get into it anyway. It is easy enough to unhook it leaving the hoses attached, lift the tank up and pour it out. You might even change the filter screen in it as well. You will need to take the top out of tank with a torx driver and slip the nylon filter mess media off the suction tube. Then just put the tank back in boat and add new oil. It should still be primed as you should not drain hoses. Look all the hoses over though and replace them if needed.
Now that we have that all out of the way, as an annual routine I would:
1. Get a new fuel bulb as well. Make sure to get the right size for what HP motor you have. 2. I think this would be a good time to change the lower unit oil too.
3. Change water pump impeller if it’s been over two years since last replacement.
4. Pull the prop off, grease the splines and check for fishing line and get that all squared away.
5. Get a new set of plugs for the motor as well so that you can replace the old with new after you get through decarboning the motor.
Once you get on a routine of all this, I would try to decarbon her once every 75-100 hours if you use the Ram Oil and Carbon Guard. Every 50-65 hours if not. That will keep that under control.
We’re almost ready to start the decarbonizing. First, any spin on fuel filter in the fuel line should be removed, dumped, filled with Tuner Cleaner and reinstalled. Then pump the fuel bulb to get her ready to light off. Remove the hood and air box, hook motor up to a flusher on hose and get the motor warmed up to operating temp. With motor running, shake the first can well and hold the throttle bodies open enough to keep her running with one hand as you spray the tuner through each carb for about 15-20 seconds per carb. NOTE: If can(s) have a hose attached, cut off to about 3″ in length. DO NOT, in ANY CASE, attempt to inject cleaner through the Schraeder valve! This will need to be done as quickly as possible too, so that you leave as much chemical as possible in each cylinder. Just keep going from one to the next with the spray and keep the R’s up to 1800-2500. That will help pull the tuner down in the motor. Once the can is just about empty, let the motor start to load up somewhat and keep giving the carbs a shot from the can and let the motor load up and die if you can. If not, shut off the engine as quickly as possible and let soak for one hour.
While she soaks, take the hose and rinse off the drive way so as to keep it clean or the carbon will stain it somewhat for a while. The white smoke will leave you wondering what it will do to you as you had to breathe quite a bit of it. Well, you will glow in the dark for a while but not forever. I figure the perks would be that it kills Anthrax spores though LOL….
Start the motor one hour later and let warm up at a fast idle. About 1500 would do the trick. Once she gets all warmed you need to bounce the throttle a little to blast the loose carbon out of the engine. This is where it gets somewhat tricky to tell you how to do this as I don’t want any hang time here, so just punch the throttle and right back out of her. Bounce the throttle enough to get 4000-4500 R’s but no hang time there at all. Do this 4-5 times with some idle time (about 20 seconds) between each bouncing of the throttle. Get the second can of spray and repeat the treatment, letting the engine soak for one hour.
Repeat this for each can till the last one. For that one, I want to let it soak for over nite as this will be where you get the hardest to remove carbon off her. Once you get the last can in her and soaking, clean everything up good, put the air box and the hood on, leave her trimmed down all the way over nite. In the morning, make her ready for a lake trip and go run the hound out of her. I mean go run the lake WOT! This will finish getting the carbon out of her. Once you are happy with that, take her back home and install the new plugs. Put the new plugs in her while you are at the lake if you like, then go run her some more. Wouldn’t hurt anything.
While you were letting her soak between each treatment, you could have been changing the lower unit oil and all that stuff, but I like to do that before I start the decarbonizing. That way I can leave the motor tilted down all the time so that the chemical will run through the motor. This chemical works like oven cleaner, so doing this with a warm motor is best. While doing this though you can cleanup things on her as she soaks and make the most of it….Tackle boxes need to be cleaned once in a while anyway LOL….
Donated a 8-cyl landyacht to the needy so I’m down to a comfortable 31.
“you gonna pull them pistols or whistle Dixie?” Josey Wales
“Mans got ta know his limitations” Dirty Harry
“Leave the gun, take the canoli” Godfather, the name of the hitman escapes me
“We got somethin in these parts called a Missoura boatride” Josey Wales
John McClain-Diehard; yippie-kai-yay mother***ker
Al;
“somebody step on a duck?”
“last time I saw a mouth like that it had a hook stickin out of it.”
“you’re a lotta woman, hey ya wanna make 14 bucks the hard way?”
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Now you started something….
Caddyshack:
CARL: Big hitter, the Lama. Long.CARL: …And I said, Hey Lama, how ’bout a little something, you know, for the effort? And he says, there won’t be any money, but when you die, on your deathbed you will receive total consciousness So I got that going for me, which is nice.
CARL: Mrs. Crane! You’re a little monkey woman, you know that?
CARL: This crowd has grown deadly silent, a Cinderella story outta’ nowhere. Former greenskeeper and now about to become the masters champion.
CARL: It’s in the hole!!
CARL: If I were you, I’d keep playin’, I don’t think the really heavy stuff’s comin’ down for quite a while.
CARL: This is a hybrid … of bluegrass, Kentucky bluegrass, featherbed bent and northern California sensemilia. The amazing stuff about this, is that you can play 36 holes on it in the afternoon, take it home and just get stoned to the bejeezus-belt that night on the stuff.
CARL: I’ll slack you off you fuzzy little foreigner.
CARL: Correct me if I’m wrong Sandy, but if I kill all the golfers they’ll lock me up and throw away the key.
CARL: They’re like the vietcong…varmintcong. So what you got to do…you got to fall back on superior firepower and superior intelligence. And that’s all she wrote.
CARL: I smell varmint poontang, and the only good varmint poontang is dead varmint poontang, I think.
CARL: Au revoir Gopher!
Grumpy Old Men:
The green hornet strikes again (I pull this one out when I am really outfishing buddies)
Dirty Harry:
I know what you’re thinking: “Did he fire six shots, or only five?” Well, to tell you the truth in all this excitement, I’ve kinda lost track myself. But, being this is a .44 Magnum, the most powerful handgun in the world, and would blow your head clean off, you’ve got to ask yourself one question: “Do I feel lucky?” Well, do ya punk?
Animal House:
Was it over when the Germans bombed Pearl Harbor? Germans? Dont stop him, he is on a roll
Thanks for the info gentleman, we are hoping to find something more than the mile range that Talk-a-bouts, Cobras, etc give us in Canada. We are sometimes quite a distance apart.
Can honestly say I’ve never had a launching mistake, it comes from a disciplinarian father who always instituted a check/recheck system to everything in life. If its boiling weiners for hotdogs, I’ll guarantee he has a system!
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I’ve seen people back down ramps with their boat unfastened and it slides right off the trailer onto the ramp. Ouch! I’ve also seen people drag their boat up the ramp by winching it to get it to the trailer as they didn’t want to get the wheels in the water because they were afraid some greese might leak out.
Thanks, Bill
My brother-in-law witnessed this at Bass Camp just this summer. Truckload of yahoo’s with “Dads” new Crestliner cut in front of him, unhooked and proceeded to unload on the ramp, motor never touched water.
One of our great Sunday afternoon pastimes when I was younger was a 12-pack and a chair at the upper ramp in Wabasha watching Cidiots trying to load/unload their new V-8 cruisers. 
Quote:
Owner claims it was winterized before inside storage in fall 2002. Boat was purchased new in 2001 with minimal use since and looks it. I realize it may need a good cleanout or carbs overhauled. And I assume batteries may be weak or gone. Looking for any other input as to thoughts on pricing. Asking price is about $2k over high book. Extras are minimal (trolling motor, fishfinder) and not high end. I estimate about 1/2 value on them.
Just for reference, the Pro-V 1800 SE I bought with Eagle trailer had cover, 115 Ficht, sonar front and rear, Maxim 74 electric, stereo and low hours, paid low book according to NADA($14K). I’d walk away.
Boat put away for winter, last trip out to test with 17p SST and motor mounted in #2 hole on transom: motor would only pull 5100rpm compared to 6000rpm for 15p aluminum prop. Snagged a brand-new 15p SST prop on ebay which should hopefully put me right at 5500-5700 range. 
Latest: Motor now raised to hole #2 on transom, with 15p aluminum prop it turns 6000rpm trimmed out at 41mph. RPM is too high, I doubt if it will now pull the 17p stainless but perhaps a 15p stainless will be the final answer.
Like a night and day difference. Previously the motor was so overloaded that the trim had virtually no affect. There are two prop shops in the Twin Cities that people seem to trust so I will ask regarding installing a 15p stainless. I guess at this point if anyone has a lighter boat that can swing an SST 13 7/8 X 17 prop #176572, I have one available. No idea what it is worth, I believe new they are around $350-375.
Update: Got a break from soccer/basketball(parenthood trumps fishing!)and tested today. I added a Stingray fin and the 15pitch for testing. Quite a difference!! While not a 175hp speed demon by any means, the boat will jump right up on plane pulling at 3800-4000, very rapidly builds to 4900-5000rpm at which point I begin to trim it out. It will now pull 5500rpm and 38-39mph. Enough to satisfy until I repower to a 150 or 175. I probably still take it in for preventative maintenance and a good look/see. Thanks all.
My patience is not wearing thin, I’m not upset, I’m just going to bow out before this degenerates into an argument between users and non-user. Witnessing the V-8 pickup loss of oil pressure and the dirty small engine I choose to be a non-user.
Doesn’t explain it to me, not when he switched to the $7 oil and everything is clean after an additional 1000 miles with no pump adjustment whatsoever. No more deposits on the piston crowns, we can now reasonably read piston wash with the Bend-a-lite. Amsoil claiming to be better at 100:1 doesn’t convince me, I know of hopped up motors with the pumps removed and running Klotz at 50:1 pre-mix that are spotless. The difference between 75:1 and 100:1 is .37 oz per gallon, about a teaspoon in the Ratio-Rite cup.
This is getting carried away, I only provided the information to save people money, not to start the same controversy that ties up snowmobilers for hours. If you are happy with Amsoil you probably will be fine but there are cheaper alternatives that will work.
As I stated, my background is not outboards but small engines. I have several acquaintances who buy Amzoil as well as a nephew who recently tried it in his pickup and promptly lost oil pressure and dropped some serious coin on the repair. The motor I had open was a 3800-mile 440 liquid snowmobile engine for fresh seals, pistons . The pump cable had been adjusted to the point that he regularly used oil at 60:1-75:1 range. His carb jetting is run 1 size over optimum piston wash to compensate for what passes for good fuel in MN I have never seen such sticky rings, carboned pistons, exhaust ports and y-pipe before. At first glance the y-pipe deposits were so bad I thought he had run it lean and deposited aluminum in it. The crankshaft could best be described as gooey. I personally will not use it, others swear by it. You have to decide your own comfort zone as with any product.
Broader terms;
MAGNUSON-MOSS WARRANTY IMPROVEMENT ACT
United States Code Annotated
Title 15 Commerce and Trade
Chapter 50 Consumer Product Warranties
15 Section 2302
“(c) No warrantor of a consumer product may condition his written or implied warranty of such product on the consumer’s using, in connection with such product, any article or service (other than article or service provided without charge under the terms of the warranty) which is identified by brand, trade or corporate name; except that the prohibition of this subsection be waived by the commission if:
1) The warrantor satisfies the Commission that the warranted product will function properly only if the article or service so identified is used in connection with the warranted product, and
2) the Commission finds that such a waiver is in the public interest
Link to government speak written by lawyers;
I’ll just make it easy.
Magnuson-Moss Warranty Improvement Act Affects Engine Warranties
Under the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Improvement Act, a marine, snowmobile or other engine manufacturer can make a warranty conditional on the use of a specific brand of motor oil or related lubricant ONLY if those products are provided free of charge.
The warranty statement in the manual is the only warranty which is official and a mechanic or dealer has no authority to supersede this statement. This Federal Law Prohibits dealers/mechanics to require the use of and OEM or specific brand of oil unless the dealer/mechanic can prove to the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) that, (1) no one else has an oil which will work, or (2) they must provide the oil to you free of charge for the required warranty period.
If the original equipment manufacturer’s (OEM) product is not provided free of charge, the manufacturer must produce a Federal Trade Commission waiver exempting it from the conditions of the Magnuson-Moss Act.
Follow the GOA-Northcoast Oil link, print out the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Improvement act and slap it on your dealers counter. You’ll see them stammer.
For what its worth.
http://www.goa-northcoastoil.com/tips/2cycleol.html
This debate rages on amongst my other hobby, sledding. My diploma and experience is in small engines not outboards but suffice to say, oil is not as complicated as you think. Most of them are blended to be semi-synthetic in Plymouth, MN by Lube-Tech(Toro, Lawnboy, Cat, Polaris, Yamaha, Cabelas, etc) and I believe they now have the contract for Phillips Injex. Your dealer does not have a refinery out back supplying XYZ OEM oil for your motor, its done on bids just like many things in this world. The base oils are mostly similar, the differences being the additive package(synthetics) specified to make them more ashless/smokeless. When I buy oil it is in a 55 gallon drum at $7-9 per gallon and everybody in our group shares. No heavy carbon, no ring sticking. The Arctic Blue snowmobile has been very good for us as has the Shipmate in the outboards. The filthiest motor I ever disassembled had lived on Amsoil. I like the Shipmate because it is poly-isobutolene(less smoke) and the price is right. It has been flawless in our Johnsons, don’t know how it will act in a Ficht motor. The only reason we quit Lube-Tech is they got proud and the price on Pennzoil and Injex started going up to their customers which raised the price for all of us.
Thanks Chris, did just that. After a test with the 15p it will be headed to 61 Marine for a good once-over.
