CaptainMusky wrote:

You usually get what you pay for in my experience. I would say if you heavily use something buy something of higher quality, but if its a casual use or infrequent then go all in on Harbor Freight.
I have bought a few things from there. One a gas can and its a total POS! When you empty it the sides cave in and there is no way to completely fill it. I lose like a gallon capacity.

I put these on every gas (10) that I own and have a single hi-flow nozzle that I move between them. Can dump a 5 gallon tank into the mower in 20-30 seconds.

Gas Can Vents

Thanks all for the info! Time to teach this old dog some new tricks!

gim wrote:

Might have some difficulty with the ML setup but if its all you got, that’s how it goes.

Weeds are thick right now so something that can go through it without constantly getting hung up is a good idea. I second the texas rig.

I could have him use one of my medium setups too.

Thanks Bearcat! I don’t speak bass so I’ll have to do a little homework to figure out what you mean by nail weights, neko and Texas rig.

Thanks all for the confirmation that I am on the right track! Gators and trekking poles will be included and my new Crispi’s have 15+ miles on them since I drew the tag last week – all with a 40# pack on. Targeting 200-300 by the time I head west.

Dogfish wrote:

^Jake, I’d recommend looking up the exact carburetor you’re about to clean. Sometimes people post super helpful videos on the exact thing you need.

Good idea, thanks.

Dogfish wrote:

Just be careful with carb cleaner and rubber seals. It will likely cause those seals to swell and damage their integrity.

Is this advice to not use carb cleaner at all or use it sparingly?

Grouse,

Do you have a good video or training guide for cleaning a carb that you recommend? My 9 year old and I are planning on pulling the carb in his go kart tonight to attempt to get it running. Gas sat in it for 1-2 years since it became an issue. I’m not the most mechanical person, but if we can learn a skill together, we will both come out ahead!

crawdaddy wrote:

You want to look up Vince Flynn. MN author who wrote some great books.

Definitely Flynn. I’ve read or listened to most Tom Clancy books. While good, they are very long, very detailed books. If this is your jamb, they are great. Some of them are more spy-like, but more are world conflict based.

I also really like the Jason Kasper series. There is a spy element to these, but more centered around black ops. These are free with Kindle Unlimited so I’ve been burning through them pretty quickly.

Bearcat89 wrote:

Glad you didn’t take that in a bad way jake lol, I battle with you engineers daily. And guys who build the prints. We all have the same end goal, but man do some guys take the hardest route possible.

Once upon a time, I may have, but with age comes wisdom or at least more chill… In all honesty, my favorite projects now are working directly with contractors through the design process in a design-build fashion. It is way easier to ask “hey, this is what I’m thinking. You cool with it?” before the information is even put into a drawing set vs. design/bid/build where all the questions come long after you are onto another job.

Bearcat89 wrote:

Sounds like something dumb a engineer would do.

Haha…

Bearcat89 wrote:

What’s worse is plate steel. We cut a mri room out on the uofm that was 8 inch solid plate steel no concrete, used this same system only different cable. Took months

Did a similar room at a hospital one time. We discussed what would happen if they ever needed to remove it how it would be done. Now I know what the experts would do to remove it.

CaptainMusky wrote:

If you were to get one, get the 6.2 with the 10spd and you will have smiles from ear to ear. My 13 year old has no strong emotion about anything. I took him to lunch on a day they didnt have school and asked him if he wanted me to “6.2 it” and he said sure. I hammered it at hit 90 in no time and that was the biggest smile I have ever seen on his face.

Loving my 2020 Denali XL with the 6.2 10 speed. Just got back from an 1800 mile round trip with a lot of wind and Smoky Mountain driving. Averaged just a touch under 18 MPG and was hauling a$$ on the interstate. Way better than the 5.3L it replaced.

I often hear from concrete guys that engineers “over-reinforce everything”. Seeing how much work goes into demoing this makes me smile. Maybe too much…next time I have a tower base to design, I’ll throw some #18s in there for fun, lol!

Jeff Schomaker wrote:

The Sitka gear I have purchased so far. For a long time I was an anti Sitka person. I was never (and still won’t) paying those prices for outdoor clothing. But if you shop their deals it is by far the best purchases I have made to make my time outside more enjoyable. The fit and comfort is amazing. I own more than my wife knows about. And I definitely see more purchases in the future.

When I get down 30 more lbs, my wife will not be happy with the amount of Sitka purchases she’ll be seeing. Do you use the Fanatic system for deer hunting. It’s been highly recommended to me and I plan on that being my first purchase. My 20 year old Cabela’s cold weather gear has completely fallen apart so I need new stuff anyways.

Thanks for all the recommendations. While telling my dad about putting a plow on the Mule, he told me that I should just use his JD 755 with 5′ snowblower since he doesn’t use it at all in the winter. Dads are the best!

A 30 hp tractor/blower is definitely on the want list, but really would like a larger boat first. I didn’t mention that we are in SW WI so we don’t get nearly the snow a lot of you MN peeps have. This has been the 2nd worst snow year since we have lived here, but only have had 2 snows 5″+ to move. Both of those, I could have plowed once early and once later to make it an easier task. We are at the bottom of a valley so there is no real drifting to worry about.

Anyone else run the hydro turn or wish they did/didn’t? I have a Warn winch on the front already so I assume I don’t need to buy a plow specific winch, right?

I was thinking they’d be dropping soon around here (SW WI), but then watched two sparring pretty intensely last week behind my shed – nobody lost their headgear. 3 bucks together with 4-5 does/yearlings in the same general area so not sure if this was late breeding related or just a hierarchal establishment.

fishthumper wrote:

I ate at Mc’d’s yesterday for the 1st time in a long time. I’m sitting here right now drinking the watered down Coke in the exact cup you are talking about. For some reason I was craving a BIG Mac ( Not near as good as they use to be ) this should fill my craving for a rather long time again.

I haven’t had a Big Mac in at least 6 years since I switched jobs – old office was right across the parking lot from a McD’s.

However, every now and then I want one. A few months ago, my wife stumbled across a big mac in a bowl recipe. Essentially, a big mac salad with ground beef, pickles, tomatoes, cheese and 1000 Island Dressing. Is it an extremely healthy salad, no. But it has to be better than the real deal…this is making me hungry and I saw she has them on the dinner list for later in the week!!!

TheFamousGrouse wrote:

The damn cost of the TSX/TTSX factor loads will make you want to start reloading pretty quickly. And cost-wise it can almost be justified based on the flippin crazy ammo prices now.

Be prepared for sticker shock.

No arguments here. Right about $40/box before S&H. However, I’m not much of a shooter. (3) boxes of handloads from an old colleague have lasted me almost 7 years. They were a great load, just don’t like the fragmentation I had on (2) of my last kills.

I have “most” of what I need to reload besides components, but what I don’t have is time to learn the craft. I wish that wasn’t the case, and someday it won’t be, but for now, I’ll leverage my good income to buy the factory loads and save the time for more important things.

waldo9190 wrote:

I currently load the 130 TTSX in my 270 and they are fantastic for anything inside of 420 yards or so, after which the minimum velocity to expand starts to get a little iffy. Everything I’ve shot with them has gone no more than 20 yards.

And just an FYI, the ballistic silvertips you’re referring to are essentially a Nosler Ballistic Tip (lead core) with a proprietary coating for Winchester. Two completely different bullets.

Thanks for the lesson on silvers vs TTSX! I don’t think I will ever shoot enough to be worried about shots over 420. That may change when I head west in a year or two, but I still don’t see myself being comfortable with shots that long.

Thanks all for the info!

Randy Wieland wrote:

Use which ever one patterns the best in your rifle. I use both tsx and the ttsx in a dozen 270’s. Impact wise, both perform outstanding. I’ve found consistent the 130gr in 270win and the 140gr in the 270wsm have ground Ed best for the rifles I load for. I test out to 1000yrds or 900 meters

I was hoping you weighed in, Randy. I know you’ve mentioned in the past that you really like these in .270. Since I’m not in a position to reload, do you have any recommendations on factory loads to use as a starting point? I’ve seen 130 gr. TSX loaded in Federal and 130 gr. TTSX loaded in Barnes available on Ammoseek.

Steven Krapfl wrote:

Yesterday was the last day of my gun season. My buddy got a nice buck opening morning but I don’t have a pic to share, however I will be boiling the head for him so when I get the pics I’ll post. I ended up with a nice fat doe and a big bodied buck who didn’t quite have the rack his body says he should have. Oh well, I got deer sticks coming! All shot on public land with my trusty 45/70. Hope others faired well in Iowa, too.

Steve

I always thought Iowa was shotgun/muzzleloader only so I looked at the regs. Cool that they allow those centerfire calibers as well! Not like my area of WI that used to be shotgun only…

Thanks all for the information. I stepped away from IDO for a few weeks and totally forgot I had posted this question.

Randy Wieland wrote:

This is the last mechanical I’ll ever try. Deer has to be dead, was a good hit.

I got sucked into buying NAP Killzones a few years back – last mechanical I’ll ever buy. Unreliable is an understatement.

Decided to jump on the heavy arrow setup, so I switched to Iron Will 200s with bleeders. We’ll see if I can get in a stand one of these days to field “test” them.

I’ve had the Alps Pursuit pack for over 5 years. I take it everywhere in SW WI while deer hunting. Both for all day sits and while doing drives during rifle season. I also use it as a “training” pack when working out. I throw 40# in it and hike for a few miles. It is really comfortable and has held up very well through all this. When heavy, the padded waist belt and chest clip are invaluable features.

I bought mine on Amazon back then and it looks like it is still available on there for $90 if you are looking to save a little $$.

All this headlamp talk has me looking (nevermind how many I already have). The Petzl Actik Core has my eye–can run off the rechargable Li battery pack or off of AAA batteries. Might go on the Christmas list.
[/quote]

Why wait til Xmas?

Petzl Actik Core

I finally made one of these last year with an in-line duct fan. Works pretty good. Has anyone figured out a way to add heat to them? Feel like it would dry gear fast with supplemental heat.

As I was putting it back together, I decided to swap the battery hookups to the charger. Probably should have mentioned that it is a 24v system. Same issue on the same onboard bank (different battery now) so it definitely is a charger issue.

If I can’t get a new charger by Thursday, I’ll just have to put the trickle charger on the battery with the bad charger bank. Should I disconnect this battery from the charger first? Maybe pull the inline fuses so I don’t have exposed voltage flying around.

Thanks for the help Sheldon! Battery was checked without the charger so 12.61V was stored energy. Checked fluid levels and had to add maybe 1/2 oz to one cell. That’s it. No corrosion anywhere, but adding dielectric grease to all connections. Thinking it’s the charger.

Iowaboy1 wrote:

Depending on how hard you are working them and how much charging they are getting,yes, electrolyte levels can be low.
Distilled water yes.

Not working them hard at all…only ran them 2-3 days last year. Didn’t have the onboard hooked up though for about 6 months afterwards.

Iowaboy1 wrote:

Even though your battery shows full voltage check the electrolyte level, it may be low and the charger sensed this when it went into desalination mode.

Is it reasonable for a battery that is just a year old to have low fluid levels? If the levels are low, do I fill with distilled water?

Thanks Umy. This is the thread I remembered.