This was a piece of cake. Very consistent hone on the edge. Only worked on the final 1/16th inch leading into the edge. Tested on the ice and it cuts better than new.
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It is simply my opinion, but I’m thinking that Eskimo has something new in the offing. Possibly a larger battery as standard on the E40. Possibly other newer technologies on the motor or controls…?? Just got a feeling is all.
These blades are very similar to the E40 blades. Once I played with them, I could get them near shaving sharp with a 600 grit diamond stone. Little pressure is required to make them chew up ice.
Fresh oil & filers are cheap insurance. My new Vettes I ran 5K miles w/Mobil One. My daily driver is likely older than most here. It’s 95+% and gets conventional oil/filter every 3K miles. I expect they will bury me in it.
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Went out perchin’ in 1985 with a bunch of employees from Marv Koep’s Nisswa Bait Shop. We ended up on 9 Mile and how we ever found it was a mystery. It was after walleye season ended and there were no shacks around. There was no GPS and even Tutt’s map didn’t exist. We murdered some very large perch. Nobody had rods with a spinning reel yet. They were mostly using a stick with the line wrapped end-to-end. I used a Swish Rod with a pencil sinker and couldn’t get the bait down fast enough. For me, it was a once in a lifetime ice trip. Went back to 9 Mile several times using a GPS and good GPS maps and never got into the big perch again. Went out to a spot on The Midget about a dozen years ago for some nice perch and some real nice tulibee. One night, I went back to the Midget with the GPS for Tulibee. Drove out at midnight. It was 28F and a full moon with no wind. Could not keep my bait in the water. As soon as the sun cracked the horizon, fishing stopped.
grpub you should get into the sharpening game.I got a set you could do.
Check your PM.
Went back and massaged those damaged 8 inch Turbo blades with the 600 grit diamond stone on this little devil. Set the angle so that I only hit the last 1/16″ leading into the edge. Darned blades were near shaving sharp. Took the auger down to the lake for a final test…WHOA. Wish I’d done this first before I bothered Ardisam. Now I have a set of factory blades as backup……
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The safest transactions are via USPS Money Orders sent to ONLY to a physical address, NOT a PO Box. If a large ticket item, the Postal MO serial number can be verified. Otherwise, a direct wire transfer of funds via bank-to-bank is pretty good. It wasn’t prior to about 2005, because funds could be recalled. Not anymore.
No checks and no bank drafts…NOT EVER.
My last professional gig involved buying electronic devices and software from hacks. If they were adamant about using a PO Box, I passed. If they wouldn’t accept Postal MO’s, I passed. Never got burned once and if anyone was going to burn me, it was these people.
Once upon a time I had a Rem Model 7 in 7/08 Rem and loaded a 139gr Hornady BTSP projectile for it. It was a deer killin’ SOB. Every deer shot broadside at 50-100yds died fast and it would leave a golfball exit. What’s not to like? Largest deer had a live weight of 170-175#. Would def want a longer barrel if I were going to stretch out shots to 400yds. I have mostly hunted woods for 55+yrs and the shots are much closer than that.
A field/turkey barrel with a STANDARD INVECTOR choke in CYLINDER BORE will shoot Foster slugs just fine and not hurt the barrel/choke.
This is the one that I used and I dulled plenty of blades….a Wyoming Knife.
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Blue it is. You are correct.
Have a year on an Eskimo E40 Composite. Last Friday one of my blades came loose and one screw fell out under power. The blade rotated and got a healthy gouge in the edge. Contacted Ardisam Friday afternoon about having the blades re-ground. They emailed me back this morning. They do not offer the exchange of blades and knew of nobody that offered grinding of Turbo blades. BUT, they are sending me a free set of blades.
GO ESKIMO…!!
Went camping with a bud about 18mo back. He told me all about his hunting trips to CO and AK with a tent. According to him, he was a bonafide expert. We drove to this camp in separate vehicles and once he starts pulling out his gear out of his vehicle, he had absolutely NOTHING along. I had given him a list in advance…but his Alzheimer’s was clearly advanced also. He’s still living, but very hard to deal with.
So far, I am a fan of the E40 8″ Composite. Likely the last auger I will ever buy.
I have a 5″ lazer, a 6″ Lazer and a 7″ Rayzr that I spin with the big Milwaukee drill. Of these, the Rayzr cuts the best for punching through the bottom of the ice. My 40V Eskimo 8″ synthetic has a cut superior to all three.
If I were going to buy just an auger to drive with a drill, knowing what I know now, I’d have to buy the Eskimo auger.
When I chased Chinese Chickens with my old Springer, I belonged to 4 clubs that put out birds. We always chased the birds that others had missed and never had them stock any purposely. My tool of choice was a Rem 1100 20ga with a fixed modified choke. That one one bird-killin’ machine. I would take clients out and always let them have first crack at the birds. The 20ga had no issues taking birds out at a distance (out to possibly 35yds).
That said, would I take a 12ga full choke…?? HECK YES.
You just need the discipline to let the bird get out a ways or you will tenderize them. See how a #7-1/2 shot 1oz or 1-1/8oz trap load patterns out of your gun. Otherwise, a 1-1/8oz field load of #6 shot. Don’t go for the “Heavy Game Loads” because they really aren’t needed. When push comes to shove, try to “over-lead” the birds instead of going for a solid body shot.
My opinion mind you…..
Jamie’s demise was long overdue.
That helped enormously.
They seem to be readily available on a Google search.
That is precisely the one that I bought.
Scowered the www to find an adapter and the only one to be had was on Ebay. It has the proper internal thread to match the threaded stub on my auger and an end shaft with 3 flats milled for the drill chuck. All should be fine as long as I do not run the drill in reverse. Will clean the mating threads with acetone and give it a dab of Green Loktite, just to be sure. Will use a soft 6″ doggie Frisbee to ward off a lost 5 inch auger assembly.
Thanx for the replies.
It is a Metric M12-1.5 straight thread.
Mine is excellent. One of my better investments in 50+ yrs on the ice.
Have the Composite 8″ model and it will be my last auger.
BTW….I blew up that photo to see what that dark thing was behind the shoulder. As God is my witness, it was a four leaf clover!! What are the chances…??
I had one of the original Savage 10ML-II’s and used RL7 to great effect. It was a 50cal and I used the 250gr SST. Irons were the flavor of the day as my state (WI) did not allow optics over 1X at the time. Fired “many” sub MOA 3-shot groups at 100yds using a fine beaded blade and a rear mounted peep sight. That yielded a looong sight radius and gave a very precise aim on an reduced NRA Highpower target.
Also used H110 (required a tight fit of the projectile or hangfires DID occur), N110 and H4198. Cannot help regarding smokeless powders for the 45cal and would stick to the manufacturers recommendations. The faster burn rates will likely work better than what worked in the 50cal.
The 250gr SST was instant death on a whitetail at Smokeless velocities. One that I hit at 165yds took it dead center in the lungs, broadside, then exited tight to the shoulder on the far side. Dropped it like a toilet cover and showed bloodshot meat in front of that far shoulder. It was ugly. Another was hit at 150ys and threw it to the ground like it was hit with a poleaxe.
This deer was hit at 30yds broadside and it liquified everything north of the diaphragm on a dead center lung hit. Surprisingly, it actually ran right past me as I sat on the ground with my back against a stump.
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Though many mil-wannabe types will pooh-pooh them, I still have mine installed. For rapid-fire, it seems easer to pull the rifle into the shoulder and stay on target. Legal or not…
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