Alright. I felt that I should explain what happened in case anyone else has the same issue. Here is what happened.

After putting the graphs on the console in the wrong positions, I took the boat out and started playing with them. I had it in my head that one should be sourced to the transducer (SI) on the stern, and the other to the DI transducer on my Ulterra. I made the changes under the Sonar tab, not even realizing there was a Netework tab that was already set by the dealer. So, I set one source to the rear (SI) and the other to the DI from the Sonar tab (not the Network tab). That apparently threw them off network. My dealer’s Humminbird Tech called me today and walked me through fixing things up. He had me power the graph on the left side of the console up (8 inch DI SI) and then the other graph (9 inch DI). He asked me to power on the Ulterra and see if it flashed iLink on the graphs, which they both did. So, he said it wasn’t a power issue to the Ethernet port. Next, he had me go to settings and select Custom instead of Angler for User Mode. Then he had me scroll down to Sonar, which was set to off, and switch it to on. When I did, the Network tab appeared at the top of the menu. Next, he had me go to the Network tab on the graph on the right (9 inch DI) and select Network Source Setup. From there I had to set the 2D, DI, SI, and T1 all to the 8 inch DI SI source. So, it was user error. I had it in my head that the 9 would be reading off the Ulterra DI transducer, which now I know will only happen when I put the 9 on the bow and plug it into the Ethernet/Ulterra cords up there. I just assumed they would run off separate transducers, but now I know they are both sourced to the Stern transducer when they are both on the console. I have an Alumacraft Competitor 185 Tiller by the way.

Thanks for the help along the way.

I truly don’t think it is a power issue, but I guess it’s not out of the question. Everything works, just no networking going on.

I did what this post below, from another forum, said to do. It didn’t work, but I may have rushed the process. Think I’m going to try it again before calling support.

Quote:
If you DO NOT get a network tab to populate – hook them both up, and once they are fully booted and running, DISCONNECT both your Ethernet connections while powered, reset defaults – and shut down.
Power both back up and make sure they have been running several minute to ensure they are fully booted and they should be reset to defaults once again. Shut down a second time – before you boot each back up again,reconnect the units and boot which ever one you were planning to be “the master” or unit supplying “the food chain” the most of the usable data 1st.
Again, let them run for several minutes and hit exit if any of them quack about any source found or lost – then go see if you can configure the Ethernet tab, if you are on very similar software (if not the exact same) version and do not “see” an IP address assigned in the system status tab(s) – it is possible the onboard NIC (Ethernet device) has failed. Out of the box, you generally won’t have a network tab until it has been Ethernet connected to another unit. The above procedure “releases” a stuck IP address, it happens with PCs & Servers too.
RAS

I can’t find any cut off switches to the Ethernet port. The dealer is closed due the covid-19 orders in MN.

I found some related posts on the web where guys didn’t have the network tab. Issues described were power source issues and stuck ip addresses.

I’m going to call Humminbird support and see if they can get me networked.

One thing to note is that when I picked up the boat, I took off the control heads to transport home in my truck. When I put them back in the boat, I put the DI where the SI should have been. The dealer said the SI needed to go on the bracket to my left and be powered on before the DI. So, I’m wondering if since I did it wrong, it messed something up with the network.

I’ll update this after I speak to support.

Ok. So, I checked my settings and under User Mode, I only have the options of angler or custom. No, advanced option. Neither is giving me the network tab across the top.

Also, I’ve tried different switch combinations thinking maybe the Ethernet port is connected to a switch that I didn’t have on, and still no network option. It would be nice if there was an LED light showing the thing has power on it.

Any other ideas?

I’ll check the switches. That might make difference. I assumed if they had power then there Ethernet switch box had power. Thanks. I’ll let you know.

That supports getting it.

Thanks.

All great info.

The feedback from the dealer was that in the event it gets stuck down for some reason, it’s better to have the quick release to pull it off and get back to the ramp.

Seems like it’s worth it.

Thanks again. This forum has made buying a new boat much easier!

I plan to store it in my garage all year.

I am getting a RAM mount to stabilize it when I travel. Other than protecting it from rocks flying up, I think it would bounce around just as much in the back of the truck as it would sitting on the bow when I travel. It’s $90, and don’t want to spend it if I never need to take it off regularly. But, if it’s worth it, what’s another $90!?

Do you take it off a lot?

I figured I’d have to lock it if I leave it on the boat. I’m just not understanding the need to take it on and off, but I’ve never had that capability before. So, I’m wondering the benefits of taking it off. I can see taking it off for traveling to protect it from getting damaged by flying objects off the road, but is there any other reason?

Need some more help on this topic!

So, I bought an Ulterra, a Helix 9 MDI, and a Helix 8 MSI. I get home and the Ulterra box says that I need to buy a separate accessory adapter cable to hook the Ulterra to the Helix. I went to buy one and they didn’t have the one for size Helix I have. But, the cable looked like it was less about 3 feet long and the guy at Bass Pro said he doesn’t think they make a longer one. So, how in the world do I plug in my Helix to the Ulterra if it’s in the back on the tiller console?

Thanks in advance.

Ok. Bass Pro is having their triple crown sale offering triple bonus points and $100 bonus cash.

No. I’m looking in the Bass Pro catalog and they are G3N. Both the 9 inch ones have the + but only the MSI 8 inch one has the +.

I was going to go with the two 8 inch screens, because it would save $535 total. That’s when I noticed the the 8 inch MDI wasn’t MDI+. I hear ya on bigger is better though. Thanks.

Thanks for the reply. I accidently posted this twice thinking it didn’t post when I got an error message. Tried to delete it, but couldn’t find a way. I got some ideas on the other post. I’m going to mount them in the back and have an additional RAM mount with power added up front. Then, I can move one if I want and/or add a third graph when I can afford it in the future.

He said they already had it figured in to link the trolling motor, Talon anchor, and the Helix 8’s.

I sent them the image and asked about it in the event that I bought a third Helix.

Awesome. This forum is great.

Problem. Solved.

They replied: “Yes, would just need a power cable and an additional network cable, to keep everything connected.”

I’m assuming he is referring to the Ethernet cable?

I texted the dealer. I’ll make sure to add that when I get a reply.

Thanks.

That’s a great idea. Thanks!

They would all be on RAM mounts, so yes, I guess I could turn the closest one toward the front and glance back at it. With the 8 inch screen it wouldn’t be easy to see details, but definitely better than nothing.

That’s my plan. Going to go with Helix 9s instead of 7s, get an Ultrex instead of Terra Nova, and add the steering assist kit on the 90 Merc. So, I essentially saved money dropping the kicker and talked myself into spending more money!

Well, thank you all for the input. I will definitely post a review with pics of the new boat.

That’s good info too. Thanks.

I understand there would be some swing involved with using one or the other alone. I would use common sense if the conditions were not favorable, and I used them at the same time.

The Talon is going to come in handy when I’m by myself at ramps with no docks. I think I’ll get my money’s worth out of both of them way more than the kicker.

Didn’t think of that.

Does anyone have experiences using the Talon anchor and spot lock in the way I described?

Dues the spot lock feature keep your boat parallel to the shore, or just keep the bow in one spot?

I was thinking the talon anchor with the spot lock will hold the boat in that position considering wind, waves, and currents.

I’ll ask about that. I saw some different mount brackets on the internet after doing some research.

It shouldn’t be this complicated to buy a damned boat!

Thank you.

Great info. Thank you.

I’ll rethink the kicker. Save a little money and use it for other upgrades on the new boat.

Thank you for the research. Yes, the 90 is the max. I asked him if getting the 185 would help and he said that it would be worse, because the max on 185 is also 90.