That’s kind of what I thought for size and would think a walleye lead core setup would be more appropriate, but never really fished specifically for them.
How would walleye LC setup look like ? For Kokanee I am planning to use Dodger + Wedding Ring + Gulp Waxies bait on 24″ leader line that is attached to the end of LC line (at the required depth).
I’m not sure where you’re fishing Kokanee Frank but where I’ve fished them in CA and OR, they are pretty small fish and don’t require heavy gear, line, etc. Most Koke’s in CA and OR are 15 to maybe 20 inches, so seldom above 1.5 or 2 lbs. The one big exception to that rule is Flaming Gorge where they do get up to 4 lbs or so. I found down riggers to be most productive with snap weights on flat lines coming in second. Lead core can work, and I’ve caught Koke’s on it, but I’ve also drown a lot of little ones that I had no idea were on the lead. If your Koke waters are similar to the ones I fished, I’d recommend medium/light rigger rods with 10 lb mono for a primary setup. You can stack lines on one downrigger to get two rods out on the same rigger and hit different depths. Koke’s have VERY soft mouths and they thrash like crazy as soon as they get close enough to feel vibrations from the motor. They get off the line OFTEN. There are days where a 50% landing rate is good. For this reason you want lighter line and a softer rod to help absorb the fight close to the boat. They are not big enough to make runs, but rather just little thrashing devils near the boat. If you want more lines in the water then I’d suggest flat lines with 10-12 lb mono and use verious size snap weights 20 feet ahead of the bait to achieve your desired depth.
Koke’s typically like a slow troll. 0.9 to 1.2 is probably most common where I fished, so if you do use lead, it will sink more than advertised.
Good Luck! and post pictures if you have success.
Thanks and yes the range you described sounds about what I should expect when fishing in WA.
https://wdfw.wa.gov/species-habitats/species/oncorhynchus-nerka-kokanee
I do not have downrigger which is why I am going with Lead Core line. So, LC will not be sensitive to give feedback if Kokanee took a bite ? I am going with Medium power, Mod-Fast action e-glass rod (Okuma CP-CL-862M – 2 pc) based on feedback on this thread.
Will use fishhawk to gauge depth (55 F is what I know is Kokanee preferred) and then do the math with LC line to get to that depth, attach 24″ leader line to LC line end rigged with 4/0 size (4” in length) dicknite dodger + #2 size Wedding ring spinner (with #6 hook) + Gulp waxies bait
Frank, the best trolling rods are M or MH moderate glass rods.
They make for terrible jigging rods, but you’re not going to jig with leadcore.
Jig rods are not leadcore rods and leadcore rods are not jig rods…The best thing about a leadcore rod is they can be had for CHEAP. Look into the Okuma GLT rods, $40-50 and work very well. You will have a much more enjoyable experience if you buy technique specific rods for your application.
Thanks everyone. So, I will narrow down the selection to
Okuma CP-CL-862M Rod
Okuma CV-45DS Reel -> This does not give specification for Lead core line capacity though. How do I know how many colors with backer it can hold ?
Mono capacity is. 20/580 25/430 30/330
<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>B-man wrote:</div>
Frank, the best trolling rods are M or MH moderate glass rods.They make for terrible jigging rods, but you’re not going to jig with leadcore.
Or a 45 Convector.
B-man has given some good advice.
Ok thanks. Did not want to put money into buying another rod when I do jigging. So was looking for something that can work for both applications- trolling and jigging. Sounds like that will not be ideal.
Backer is needed for salmon unless you’re catching small fish.
I’ve never fished for Kokanee, but Chinook (Kings) will easily pull 100′ of drag per 10lbs of fish. It’s nothing for a 25lb king to smash a spoon and take 250′ of backer off your reel. The most I’ve ever had a fish take was 330′.
That’s like fishing 10 colors of leadcore and having a fish burn off another 11 colors.
Also, you don’t want to start reeling in (anything) with an empty spool. If your reel is a 4:1 or 6:1 with a full spool, it’s a .x:1 with an empty (takes forever to gain ground or pull lines)
Your link to an “expert” isn’t working for me, but from your description he sounds like a newbie. In your first post you said “many” people show adding backer, there’s a reason for that (big fish and ability run weighted lines on planer boards)
You aren’t out anything by setting it up correctly (bigger reel with backer), do it right the first time and avoid getting spooled = losing $50+ in tackle/line, along with the fish
I’d skip the $350 trolling rod and put your money into a quality reel, or better yet a pair of them matched up with $50-$100 rods.
Thanks. That explains it well now why I should put backer.
Will checkout size 45 reel you mentioned too. Anything to look in Rod other than medium heavy for trolling ? Is fast action good ? I also want to reuse the same rod for jigging.
Are these the dive charts you are referring to?
http://www.in-depthoutdoors.com/community/forums/topic/5-7-leadcore-trolling-charts-pdf/
Thanks for the tips. Great info.
I’m however still not sure why backer is needed. If I spool all 10 colors on the reel and use only max 6 then remaining 4 are backup already.
Based on what the_hat replied, I’m thinking backer only makes sense if either spool capacity cannot accommodate all 10 colors in which case one would spool only the number of colors they need and back it up with smaller diameter line OR the plan is to use all 10 colors.
This video from an expert simply has LC with leader attached at the end which is what I had on mind too.
