Up by the dam:
Thursday 14th,
caught over 40 fish, mostly small,
about 6 at 13-14s
two 15 , a 16 a 17.
Ran out of bait
Monday 18th
about 25 fish, much tougher really light bites
4 at 13-14
a 15, 2 at 16, 1 at 17
FYI, the real hits today came when I started tail hooking the minnows because of the short hits and mouthing the bait.
And wet leaves on the road, it’s fall right now.
Steps for Cleaning a Hummingbird Feeder
Sugar water feeders are an easy way for backyard birders to attract more hummingbirds, but it’s important to clean the feeders to keep birds healthy. In general, the best advice on how to clean a hummingbird feeder is to follow the same general steps that you would for cleaning seed feeders. This means taking the feeders down, emptying any leftover sugar water, and scrubbing them with hot water and dish soap. You can also use a bleach solution (made from 1 part bleach to 9 parts water) or a vinegar solution (1 part vinegar to 2 parts water). Make sure you rinse all parts thoroughly with clean water before refilling them.
You’ll need to clean hummingbird feeders more frequently than other feeders. Aim to scrub them once a week in cooler weather and twice a week when temperatures soar. If you’re crunched for time, Emma Grieg, project leader for the Cornell Lab of Ornithology’s Project FeederWatch, has a tip. “Running them through a dishwasher will do the trick,” she says.
Droll Yankees Cleaning Brushes
When washing the feeders by hand, pay special attention to the feeding ports. A pipe cleaner can help get the ports squeaky clean, as can special microbrushes. Use this three-pack of little brushes to scrub tiny ports on sugar-water feeders.
Replaced the float in the FSM using a new gasket kit.
Motor ran for 30 minutes.
Multiple restarts and smooth accelerations.
I think I am good to go.
I am thinking I should post the links to parts list and videos used?
Thanks,
Looks to be a float problem in the FSM.
The old one doesn’t show continuity
like the new one does.
Installing new one now.
What Is the Best Hummingbird Feeder To Keep Bees Away?
The best kind of hummingbird feeder that bees cannot use is a saucer feeder. It’s also known as a tray feeder or a dish feeder.
The secret behind these feeders is the same secret that flowers use out in the wild: they keep the nectar down deep, where bees cannot reach. But hummingbirds can reach the nectar just fine with their long, specialized tongues.
The feeding ports on the saucer feeders are incredibly narrow, which is key so that only hummingbirds can reach inside. Sometimes they are protected by additional bee guards, which usually look like a mesh or plug.
It’s also important to choose a red feeder without any yellow. In particular, avoid yellow-colored flower decorations. Insects are especially attracted to yellow but cannot see red.
Hummingbirds are well known for their love of all things red. Many flowers that hummingbirds naturally pollinate are red too.
I get continuity on both the low and high pressure pumps.
I don’t get continuity on the float.
I checked from both ends of the connector with no difference.
It seems to be the float.?
Yes, there is a low and a high pressure pump in the FSM
As well as thee aforementioned float,
and a pressure regulator
When I check the float with the ohmmeter, I don’t get any continuity when flipping the float over and back.
I was expecting some reading albeit lower than spec since the motor does run for a while before quitting
No kicker, just the main motor.
So I am finally getting time to work on this issue.
The motor starts, runs for a while, then quits.
If I turn the key on, the FSM will load with fuel and the motor will then restart.
It will eventually quit.
As the engine warms up, it becomes more persistent.
But the FSM always has to reload fuel to get it started.
It seems to be a fuel delivery issue in the FSM.
I took the FSM out and when I disassembled it,
there was only a little fuel in the very bottom of it.
Not anywhere near what I expected or what is in the YouTube videos I checked.
This leads me to believe I am on the right track.
The filter screen I can see looks clean as did the small amount of fuel in the box.
sent pm
I use the manuals and parts diagrams all the time.
Isn’t the on line manual sufficient?
Don’t know if this will work on newer motors.
I reversed the power wires inside a MK35 to reverse the spin
when I moved it from the transom to the bow.
Pulled way faster than it ever pushed the 14 foot A1.
It’s a Gen2 I-Pilot Link from about 2013. I upgraded to BT.
I have this one.
20240608_165810-scaled.jpg
20240608_165427-scaled.jpg
FYI:
Ensure it’s mounted a minimum of 5 feet in the air with no obstructions around it (within several feet). The National Weather Service recommends mounting the sensor 33 feet above the ground with no obstructions within 100 feet for the most accurate wind speeds.
15 feet above the roof line.
I have been using an Acurite for a few years now.
Just upgraded to a dual solar panel.
It does need to be cleared occasionally but is self emptying.
It reports using wifi to my base station which shares to my PC.
My PC then shares with Weather Underground (Wunderground app) and I can monitor the weather in my backyard garden on my phone.
KMNLAKEV118
My airspeed indicator is not mounted far enough above ground level to be useful.
I disagree wholeheartedly about no performance gain with ss on a 115.
Here is the link to my prop conversion I did on my 90hp 4 stroke mercury.
http://www.in-depthoutdoors.com/community/forums/topic/1675-impact-prop-selection/
Took the boat to a local lake, no traffic at all.
Ran a half dozen straight baseline runs from 0 – 39.8 at 5700 in 20-21 seconds
Pulled the prop and torqued down the PowerTech.
Ran a half dozen straight baseline runs from 0 – 40+ at 6000 in 15-16 seconds
Motor actually hit rev limiter just shy of 6200 at almost 43 MPH
but that is with just me on board (prop selection is for 2 on board)
The boat gets on plane noticeably faster as well.
The handling is a lot batter. I can crank the wheel to lock in either direction without having to change the prop trim or back off full throttle .
Big thanks for the recommendation Propmann
How does the water level compare with other years?
20 feet during the day
Shallow when darker
There are two filter screens, one on each pump.
The rebuild kit was backordered locally. not taking it apart without that.
Ordered on line, should be here the 14th.
I think I am going to work on the Fuel supply module (VST).
When the motor starts chugging, one of the motors in the FSM starts making a sound similar to when a bilge pump runs dry.
I am thinking it might have a dirty screen on the lift pump.
There is something in the fuel delivery system module that does that.
Here are the plugs I just replaced even though they are not very old.
Also tried swapping the pencil coils with a new one, one at a time with a single new one. Didn’t make a difference.
also replaced some fuel lines
20240509_160956_023-scaled.jpg
Pulled plug when stalled
Just a touch of moisture on one side of plug
20240509_124718-scaled.jpg
I am thinking it is part of the fuel system between the gas tank and whatever that part is in the picture???
Because it restarts readily.
So as it warms up, I position the throttle about 1500 RPMs,
and is starts surging between 1000 and 2000 and starts chugging
and if I don’t throttle up it stalls. If I do throttle up it just takes a little longer to stall.
It restarts right up and runs for a few minutes till it chugs again.
