Cut a circle from a plastic bottle and use Goop to attach to bottom of the seat base. Not in the seat base but the outside that you can reach thru the livewell. Did that with my Explorer. No more splashing.
Something like this should work:
http://www.cabelas.com/product/boating/boat-seats/pedestals-bases|/pc/104794380/c/104705280/sc/104492880/cabelas-quad-stand-pedestal/735113.uts?slotId=1
Ordered one today. I’ll let you guys know how it works. Thanks
I ran a 2002 60hp Yamaha 4-stroke on my Lund 16.5 Predator. Wish I had bought the 75. Hull with a console (Renegade) was rated for 90hp.
You can also determine person capacity using the Coast Guard formula.
Check the Lund catalog. It has weight capacity for your 18″ Mr PiKE.
http://www.lundboats.com/wp-content/uploads/catalogs/1981.pdf
I busted two last year at a dock. Just bought from dealer. In stock and pretty reasonable.
Didn’t realize that the part I bought is actually three separate parts. The trim cover is held on by a retainer. I just broke the retainer and lost the trim cover. Retainer is the end with the slot. It unscrews from the other threaded part.
069252-g-water-resist-fuel-tank-vent.pdf
Finished the install for both . If anyone needs some pointers I would be happy to help.
Tell them to use PPG acrylic urethane. It’s what Lund used. Too bad you weren’t closer I have plenty leftover from my Predator repaint.
New to me, 2009 Lund Explorer 1725 with 2008 115 Merc Optimax with 49 hours. Added a 2005 8hp Yamaha 4-stroke kicker and 24 volt Min Kota Ulterra.
lundexplorer.jpg
How about them Bears!!! Hope we didn’t beat up Bradford too bad. Know the Bears aren’t going anywhere but don’t want those cheeseheads winning the division.
Glad I could help. I have some Anglers Pal SS rod holders mounted on mine. Used machine screws and nyla nuts. Might try to pop riveting to the brackets.
Joe,a diode is a circuit protection device that only allows current to go one way.
Where can I get one and what size should I use?
Service manual is in the email.
if this will make sense to you,you can pull twelve volts from the first battery if you use its positive and negative post only.
you only get twenty four volts at the downstream end of the two batteries when wired in series.however,I would install a heavy duty diode inline with the anchor mates power wire just in case you would happen to short out the twenty four volt side.
Is the heavy duty diode you refer to a circuit breaker? I have a 60 amp fuse breaker.
I am guessing a service manual is different from an owners manual?
Yes. Covers everything about your outboard.
I have cracks in the console of my Explorer. The cracks appear to be in the plastic shell only but not in the fiberglass below. I plan to fill the cracks with that UV glue advertised on TV and then try to match the color with a marker.
A big bag of clips is the only way to to it.
I use an old fashioned tire iron. The end for removing hubcaps is just right. I put all my weight on the tire iron while I have someone use a pipe wrench on it. Works great on those over tightened screws.
I have a service manual for a F90 on cd. I may be able to send it to you, busse377.5
Check if there are any fuses in the engine compartment. Yes, it could be as easy as changing a burned out fuse. Had that happen to my Johnson. Just a thought and easy to check out.
Two fish catches standout. First was a 5lb largemouth bass that had a snell hanging from it’s vent. The snell had been there a long time, algae covered, and hook was still inside the fish. Second was a northern pike around 5/6 lbs that had a plastic six-pack ring around its middle. The fish had grown considerably around the ring and had a good 3/4 inch indentation all around. Snipped it off and relesed the fish. I’m sure someone will catch it and wonder what happened to it. And no it wasn’t caught in an urban waterway but it was caught on Eagle Lake Ontario.
Try chapstick for lubing those snaps. Anyone know wher I can buy the replacements for theLund sliding snaps other than from Lund?
john23, FYI Marine, household, etc Goop is Goop.
My 1987 Lund Predator uses the Springfield Marine taper lock 2 3/8 pedestals.
Lund used PPG acrylic urethane back then. Above the waterline. I repainted my 1987 Lund Predator with it after contacting Lund. Use zinc chromate to prime areas of exposed aluminum.
Bought a Lund Predator new in 1987. It never failed me on big waters like Eagle Lake, Lake of the Woods, L. Michigan and Ky. Lake for examples. Just bought a used 2009 Lund Explorer; deal was too good to pass on. Son has just inherited the 1987 Predator that he grew up fishing on. That’s why LUND!
