First post here!
My $.02:
Gas and even propane augers are yesterday’s technology and they will most likely be going away in the near future. It’s the horse and buggy of the early 1900’s. The legitimate reasons for owning a gas are dwindling by the day and I can’t honestly think of one that can’t be easily mitigated with electric. Electric is simply far superior from nearly every standpoint…speed, no fumes, quick startup, portability, off-season use, etc, etc..
Added benefit is you can reverse your drill to blow all of the ice chunks down the hole and not mess with sifting out the slush.
My setup:
Milwaukee Fuel Hammer Drill model 2804 (updated handle design – ~$100)
2 – 6AHr H.O. batteries (~$130 for the pair)
8″ blue Nils hand auger
Ice Master drill adapter (can get it from FishUSA for ~$40)
You can drill holes until you are blue in the face with this setup. Add a 3rd extra capacity battery for fishing LOW or Canada with 4 ft + of ice. Keep the battery in your pocket to stay somewhat warm, even though Milwaukee batteries tend to do extremely well in the cold. This setup will punch multiple holes through the ice before the gas augers even get started. No more tune ups, spilled gas, Stabil, fumes in ice house, cold start issues, annoying noise, etc!!!!
Pros/Cons for your auger choice to go with a drill:
– you can either go with a chipper auger (typical Jiffy style or K-Drill style bit) or you can go with a cutting blade like my Nils
– Chipper bits like K-Drill are great for reopening holes in permanent ice houses and for drilling double holes (side by side hole with overlap to make an extra wide hole, possibly if you wanted to stay 6″ bit but fish big pike). Chipper bits also can be easily sharpened and will continue to drill when they get a bit dull (albiet slower). Chipper bits can also handle dirty ice (sand, wood chips, etc). Chipper bits can get hung up on the punch through at the bottom of the hole.
– Nils or HT mini cutter bits are far superior from a speed and effort standpoint. There is simply no faster ice drill bits on the market. You also don’t apply pressure to the top, but rather let the drill do all the work and you sit back and drink coffee while your buddies are sweating with their Jiffy or Lazer! Cutter bits can get dull in dirty ice! And speaking of getting dull, protect that blade! If it gets dull you are pretty much done drilling. When it gets dull the sharpening process can be more difficult. However, I’ve never sharpened my blade and if you keep it protected they will go a long time. Cutter bits are smooth as butter on the punch through at the bottom of the hole
– if you can stay with a 6″ auger bit you will get many more holes out of the same battery size or allow you to purchase a cheaper battery and drill same number of holes. The effective cutting surface area of a 6″ is about 1/2 that of an 8″! With that said, high end drills will have no problem turning even a 10″ bit if you prefer to keep your sonar in place while landing large fish or visually see down in shallow water. The idea that you absolutely need an 8″ or 10″ bit is B.S. Quite frankly, you will lose just as many fish at the hole using the larger bits. The benefit of a 6″ bit is that big fish can’t turn around in the hole and if it gets off they will almost surely float to the top of the hole if you let them!
Drill selection:
– most reputable drill manufacturers now have equipment that is capable of handling an 8″ auger bit these days. (Rigid, Milwaukee, DeWalt, Makita, etc, as long as you go with at least 750 in/lb torque, preferably 1000)
– Milwaukee has superior cold performance and there is a reason why K-Drill only recommends this brand with their product (steel chuck, better internals, etc)
– get the biggest battery you can reasonably afford, but keep in mind not all batteries are created equal, even at the same AHr!!
– only go with a brushless motor drill (higher efficiency and power)
– cheapie old NiMH brushed drills will burnout and you will not be satisfied with the performance. Don’t use them!!