Do you have any suggestions on other brands? I’d like to stay under 200 for sure but around 150 is better. I am fishing from both shore and boat. Thanks

Rodwork wrote:

I am guessing you will be fishing from a boat since you mention trolling.
Couple of questions:
If you are buying 4 rods why have them all be the same?
Why limit yourself just to St. Croix? They do make great rods.
What is your budget?

Jeremy wrote:

Ask the guys at the local bait shop. I would definitely try Waubay. If you wander SW towards Lily, SD try Horseshoe lake as that was really good for walleye and perch the last time I was there- 20 years ago

I have a pm into Dakota angler on Facebook. Thanks

Thanks everyone. Keep the responses coming.

try out.
[/quote]

tornadochaser wrote:

You could always follow all of the other NE and IA plates up 29 and then hang a left on 12 to go to Webster, SD.

5 hour drive, and you’ll have a lot easier time finding walleyes vs the Alex or Willmar areas. But both of those areas are great weekend destinations with plenty of lakes to try out.

The glacial lakes region kind of scares me honestly. I’ve been told those lakes aren’t mapped very well? I was also told lots of hazards to take out a prop or lower unit.

Krh129 wrote:

I think Big Stone Lake fits in your time frame and I think Alexandria and Willmar Minn would be close. Both have a number of <strong class=”ido-tag-strong”>walleye lakes. Sportsman Connection puts out an atlas for those areas to get you started.

Thanks for your help. I will google sportsmen connection.

Anybody willing to show pics for examples of their excel fishing log? I’m not very good with excel. Their is actually a computer software program that does this. It’s 19.99 for a lifetime subscription and you get a 7 day free trial. I may download it and see what it’s all about.

Hey guys thanks for all the replies. I went to scheels and they sold me a couple styrofoam boxes from frabill for keeping worms. Let’s hear you’re opinion on these please? A guy on another forum told me they are notorious for killing worms because you can’t sanitize them.

Yes it’s 500. How many bags of 5lb bedding do I need for 500 crawlers?

Yes I have 2. I got one with both carbon units. I’m just scared I will cut the cord.

If you wait a few weeks I’ll have the power cord to the hds 5. All graphs have been reduced.

I’m asking 425 for the hds 7. Asking 75 for the x125. Asking 150 for the hds 5. I need these units gone so make mea offer.

Sorry you lost me. Are you saying mount the 3 n 1 to the trolling motor or run it off the transom one?

Can you buy a mount for the minnkota? I assume you can but he said no. Any advantage to having the 3 n 1 on the motor rather than running off the transducer in the back?

Make me a offer guys.

X125 pics

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gimruis wrote:

I have generally found a 9 inch screen to be acceptable for split screen use. Anything smaller, not really. 7 inch screens are fine for a single use on the screen. May be dependent on how good your vision still is too.

I just turned 37 and I’m blind as a bat without out my glasses. I’m sure it won’t get any better.

Hey guys I ended up buying a hds gen 3 9 for the bow? A guy made me a offer I couldn’t resist. I was still going to put a 12 on the console.

My question now is the 9 big enough for the bow? Or should I be looking at a 12 for the bow also? I want to be able to split screens on the bow. It would just be split two ways between mapping and 2d sonar.

Denny O wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>boos1906 wrote:</div>
My dad is actually the guy that owns the boat. I’m the guy who uses the electronics all the time. I bet my dad couldn’t even turn a unit on. With that said he lost his job in December and my parents financial situation changed drastically. Therefore he will no longer be upgrading boats at this point.

I hope you are in the position to purchase the boat in case he needs to sell due to his financials.

I’m not in a position to buy the boat. But my parents financial situation is not that bad that he will have to sell. It’s just with what the used boat market has done he won’t be upgrading at this point. My dad is 76 years old so he will not have another job in the industry he was in. However he needs to find something to do a day or two a week. He’s not a guy to sit around and do nothing. He will go crazy lol.

He will buy another boat at some point I’m sure. I mean could he afford to now yes he could. It’s just that our boat is a 05 and still works just fine. If he still had good income coming in we were just going to upgrade but now that he doesn’t we decided why upgrade if you don’t have to.

eyeguy507 wrote:

you won’t be disappointed. the birds are very user friendly and after having one for a while you will learn how to use them to your advantage. i suggest watching some videos on youtube. another thing the Helix offers is the ability to use it on the ice if that is your thing?

I don’t ice fish. Just never have really got into it

Ripjiggen wrote:

Should be able to see everything you need with your HDS units. Just have to learn to interpret what you are looking at. That is for every unit.

I use 2d sonar a lot and I’m told garmin blows lowrance out of the water with 2d. Also told garmin are much more user friendly than the hds. I need that.

So this is going to be a long post so sorry for that. I ended up buying a lowrance elite 7 that went on the bow last fall. I bought a hds gen 3 7 for the console with side and down imaging. Then I am running a gen 1 hds 5 on the console for mapping purposes only. I kind of settled on the two 7s because we were going to only have the boat another year or two.

My dad is actually the guy that owns the boat. I’m the guy who uses the electronics all the time. I bet my dad couldn’t even turn a unit on. With that said he lost his job in December and my parents financial situation changed drastically. Therefore he will no longer be upgrading boats at this point. I don’t see myself being happy with those 7s long term so I bought a hds gen 3 9 for the bow and was going to buy a 12 for the console.

I have always been a 2d sonar guy with no down or side imaging. Everybody tells me the hummingbird blows Lowrance side and down imaging out of the water. I think with me being a newbie the better picture might be best. So I’m thinking of going with the helix 9 on the bow and 12 on the console. What is the difference between the gen3 and gen 4? Also with the bow one exactly what do I need as far as transducer for a minnkota Terrova? What is the difference between the 360 mega and just the regular mega? What is the a good used price for a helix 9 and 12? Thanks and sorry for the long post.

jbg1219 wrote:

Where in Nebraska are you from and Where are you fishing mostly? I ask because if you are heading north to SD along the River there are several options I could give you.

I am from Omaha. I do fish in South Dakota a lot.

steve hughes wrote:

I get my crawlers from reel thing bait and tackle in green bay. the crawlers for me are nice and fat and lively. I keep them in fat and sassy worm bedding then in a fridge and keep it between 40 and 45.

Does reel thing have a website to order from? I’m in Nebraska.

Karry Kyllo wrote:

You’re going to get varied opinions. There are many trolling rods on the market that’ll work well for you. My wife and I troll four rods whenever we can. We don’t use flat lines very often, but instead we run leadcore on two 10’6″ outside rods that are pointed straight out the sides and two 8’6″ snapweight rods that point almost straight back on each side of the transom. Unless a crankbait is not running correctly, lines rarely tangle and cover a wide swath when trolling. We prefer trolling cranks with leadcore and snapweights in shallow water too because they allow cranks to follow contours much better than flatlining. The only time we may troll flatlines is if trolling large, deep running cranks such as Reef Runner 800s or #11 Tail Dancers.
We use both Jason Mitchell and Scheels 10’6″ rods and Jason Mitchell, Scheels and Cabela’s 8’6″ rods. We like them all and can easily see the vibrations of the lures while trolling with all of them. You don’t have to break the bank when buying trolling rods to catch as many walleyes as the next guy.

Jointed Flicker Shads can work really well but like every other crank, they have their time and place. I have a box full of them in my tackle bag and use them whenever I find that the <strong class=”ido-tag-strong”>walleyes want them.

Wow thank you for the detailed response. Just curious how shallow you fish the leadcore and snap weights? I can fish some 5-10 ft of water sometimes.

Sylvanboat wrote:

Wow. You guys have ALOT of cranks. I also use the 3700 boxes but the short ones- 1-3/8” H. I also use hook covers to avoid tangles.

What are these hook covers you talk about?

That would be a huge pain with rubber bands but might be what I do. It would certainly be way cheaper.

I mostly have 5 in flicker shads but will be buying more 7 flicker shads and 7 shad raps. For the 7s will I need the 8?

Matthew I know this is dumb question. I assume the 5 in holds up to a 5 in bait and 8 in holds up to a 8 in bait?

Karry Kyllo wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>boos1906 wrote:</div>
Hey guys I’m looking for a way to store crankbaits. What do you all use? I was looking at cramk caddy. What do you think of those?

I troll cranks alot and use many different makes and models of cranks. The best boxes I’ve found are size 3700 boxes. They aren’t perfect but they’re best option I’ve found for me. Box layouts can be customized up to a point to fit crankbaits of different sizes and profiles. I carry what I may need on a particular lake or river in Cabela’s/Bass Pro soft sided bags designed to hold size 3700 boxes and keep what I don’t think I’ll need on a particular day at home or in my truck. I use black sharpies to identify the cranks in each box so I can just look in my soft sided bags to identify what’s in each box without removing them and to easily swap boxes with what I’ll need on a particular day between my bags and storage.
I tried Crank Caddies for a couple of years but quit using them except for at home storage because cranks always slipped out of the slots they were placed in.
There are alot of tackle storage methods that work but that’s what works for me.

So how do you keep them from being a tangled mess in the 3700 boxes?

Randy Wieland wrote:

The price is a hang up for me. Dropping 25 to 40 bucks gets very costly if your trying to store large quantities. I’ve stuck mostly with Plano boxes and large wraps. Hard though when your packing 200-300 for a long trip

That’s what I’m worried about is the cost. What do you mean by wraps?

Red Eye wrote:

One thing to think about is which side you want the handle of the reel on. I run a tiller boat and wish I would have gotten a left handed reel. Now with the right handed reel I have to switch hands with the rod back and forth to control the tiller motor.

I don’t run a tiller boat. I use my bow mount and run it from the remote. But 99% of the time it’s sitting in the rod holder.