We’ve had butcher counter tops for 2 years but used as a food prep surface. Oiled weekly for first month, now do it once a month (mineral oil). It leaves a matte finish once excess is wiped up. If they weren’t used for food prep, I’d prefer to finish with a poly or other protectant..
Fished north end of Harriet yesterday, still had a solid 8” 150 yds from shore.
She’s not your mother. Sounds like these kids’s issue.
Many husbands will give their wives gifts to celebrate them being mothers as well.
The walking out of the room and burnt dinner seems a bit excessive. She didn’t agree, but you did something you thought was cool. As Justin mentioned, she should’ve at least appreciated the thoughtfulness. After 50 years of marriage, this will pass.
Hardware store dude said its too early for pre-emergent and said I should buy gypsum-Thoughts?
It may be too early depending on where you are located. In the cities it looks like we are about to enter a cold spell with highs in the 40s and low 50s and lows in 30s. That would be early for pre-emergent. Regarding gypsum, I believe its main benefit it to reduce soil compaction and erosion and increasing the soil’s ability to absorb water.
As noted above, you can dethatch as soon as your lawn dries out from this rainy spell. To cut down on mulch in the future, make sure that your lawn mower has a true mulching blade on it. A mulching blade will cut the grass into finer pieces, reducing the need to dethatch as often, and those smaller pieces will return nutrients into the ground acting as another fertilizer.
I usually put down fertilizer once I see significant growth. I like Milorganite since it’s much cheaper than Scotts, is organic and won’t burn the lawn, and you don’t have to worry so much about spread rate. This has helped turn my lawn around. Note that Milorganite does not include weed control.
I would use pre-emergent weed control soon. It may be too late in some spots like next to a curb or road where the ground has heated up faster. I also like to use a weed control liquid and spot spray with a can sprayer rather than an full granual product application. But spot spraying may not be feasible is you have a large property.
It’s beneficial if you have your lawn aerated prior to overseeding. It’s best to do in the Fall with the cooler temps, however, you can do it in the Spring as well. Just know that you’re going to have to water all of that seed everyday for a while and then regularly thereafter once it germinates. Using a starter fertilizer or Milorganite with the new seed is a good idea.
For a nice kick before your party, you can fertilize maybe a week or two prior and your lawn will have a deeper color. You can also spray liquid iron for a deeper green. Finally, mow high as it’s healthier for the lawn and prevents sunlight from reaching weeds.
I was talking to a buddy and we were wondering what level of offense does it take to get your gun, bow, decoys, rod, boat, truck, ATV, etc. confiscated by the DNR. Anybody know the answer?
Fishing or hunting without a license?
Baiting deer?
Baiting waterfowl?
Out-of-season fish or game?
Before/After legal shooting hours?
Over limit and if so, by how much?
Felon in procession of a fire arm?
First offense or upon multiple offenses?And who decides when something is confiscated? Is it the court, the C.O., C.O.’s supervisor, etc.
Had a buddy who got caught fishing two lines open water. He said his encounter with the CO was positive and he was respectful. The CO told him that he could’ve taken all of his equipment for the violation and give him a fine but because he was respectful, he only gave him the fine. Buddy said the CO went down the shoreline to check on a few more people and as he was leaving, he saw the CO going back to his vehicle with a bunch of fishing rods, boxes, etc…. Don’t think the others were as respectful.
How new is new? What is probably occurring is that some of the wood was wet still or still green. Generally you want to apply when the moisture is less than 15%. You would need a moisture meter to know this. Your best bet is to live with it until next spring and then power wash the deck and reply after it has dried sufficiently. New wood still has its natural oils therefore it just wont take stain the same as a weathered deck.
X2, especially if you bought pressure treated.
Clay bar will work well for getting that stuck material without harming the paint. The clay pulls and traps the contamination. Dampen a small portion of the car at a time so the clay can glide. Pull off a piece of the clay bar and with a little bit of pressure, glide the clay over the spot you’re working on. When the surface of the piece of clay gets dirty, roll it up until you have a clean working surface. When that piece gets too dirty to re-use, use a new chunk of the bar. Once finished, wax it up.
As others have noted, sprinkler systems are pretty easy to operate once you learn the components. It sounds like you’ll have three ways to turn each zone on: the main control panel which is normally in a garage, maybe basement, etc., the Rachio app you referenced, and there may be manual on/off levers at your valves. Your valves will be in the ground in a box or potentially sticking up out of the ground likely in your side or backyard. Each valve controls a section of sprinklers. Since you can control each valve with the Rachio app, I’m guessing that the control panel connects to your wifi and then you can “add” the panel to your phone. Should be instructions in the app or online.
As far as use, it’s really about how much you care about a green lawn/garden. In mid Summer when we haven’t had rain in a while, it’s easy to flip the system on versus dragging a hose sprinkler around. But, if it’s not a big deal, you can leave the water to the valves (shutoff valve) off, never use the sprinklers, and then you don’t need it blown out in the fall saving you the cost. I would definitely have your friend’s irrigation guy or any irrigation company come out to show you the ropes. They’ll be able to show you the shutoff valve for the system, the valve for each zone, the control panel, the actual sprinkler heads, etc. And they can run each zone and identify any issues.
If your figure is sq. ft., I recently had a few quotes for both asphalt and concrete for about that size. Tear out and replace. Estimates for asphalt ranged from $2,800 to $5,000 for asphalt and $5,000 to $7,000 for concrete. Ended up going asphalt and had driveway torn out today. People in the industry will chime in but I found that pros for concrete were aesthetics, strength and durability. Cons were more difficult to fix cracks and initial cost. Pros for asphalt are initial cost, and less expensive to maintain/crack filling/sealing. Cons were less durable and some folks much prefer the look of concrete. Sorry can’t help on recommendations as I’m in the south metro.
I have a pop up and my shelter use is primarily weather based. Sometimes I’ll bring it on nice days if I’m fishing with a group of people. Normally as long as it’s not crazy cold and/or wind isn’t blowing hard I leave the shelter at home. If I was like you and had a boat and could fish all seasons I’d also be less inclined on ice fishing those really bad weather days.
It’s possible by hand but waaaaaaay easier with the adapter and drill. Like coletrain, I use a drill and the eskimo adapter. Done in seconds.
I thought it was very cool of Taro and Paul to give the kid one of the Tackle Box Lottery boxes after he gave them some pointers. You could see it made his day.
Someone told me they had put the skies right on the bottom of the tents plastic tub.
Does this work?????
I mounted skis up through 1x2s directly to a jet sled. Used bolts at length that barely stick up into the sled. Countersunk the heads into the skis. Should work for the plastic sleds on flipovers.
Find the structure you want to fish first, then Google map closest public parking. Alot of parking along most the parkways there. Assume you will need to walk and crawl over some stuff, not to bad.
+1, take a look at a topographic map and pick the spot you want to start with. High change there’ll be street parking nearby on both lakes. You can do well for walleye on either.
Depending on how large the tear is, you may be able to use an iron-on patch like this. I’ve used this twice and has worked both times.
https://www.michaels.com/loops-and-threads-heavy-canvas-patches/10152948.html
Powerstop Z36. Prices are better than in store for just about any set. They are awesome rotors and pads. The link below is for a 2011-14, but it may be the same for 15.
+1, have had good experiences with Powerstop brakes. OEM would be fine as well. I’d stay away from any of the “house” brands at the auto parts stores as those rotors aren’t nearly the same quality. As someone previously mentioned, check out Rockauto as they usually have the best prices. Semi metallic pads will give you better initial bite but with more dust, ceramics should give you less dust but with slightly less initial bite.
Tried braid and like others have said it froze up too much as I fish outside a lot. Another vote for ice line (Ice Magic), for walleye can’t go wrong with 6 – 8lb. I also tie swivel to fluro.
Sorry if stupid question but I assume you buy second set of rims so each set is mounted itself.
Not a stupid question, some folks buy second set of wheels for their winter tires so they can just change out tires/wheels themselves. Others will go to tire shop and have their winter tires mounted on their regular wheels. Getting a second set of wheels is easier imo since changing out the sets on your vehicle yourself takes minutes.
OP, someone just posted a brand new thermal one man in the Classifieds.
<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>biggill wrote:</div>
<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>lindyrig79 wrote:</div>
The brake dust on my chrome clad rims were awful. You could could clean them weekly by hand and still not keep up. I will say, after I replaced the break pads it is much better (less dust). But I still don’t care for the rims.I could be wrong but I’ve read that aftermarket brake pads are notorious for leaving massive amounts of brake dust on your rims.
When replacing brake pads get the high grade. Will not eliminate the dust but it will help.
+1, higher grade pads should help eliminate the dust. I’ve actually had less dust with aftermarkets on each vehicle I’ve owned. Ceramic pads “should” also produce less dust than metallic pads. Metallics usually have more initial bite but we’re not talking sports cars here.
I’m guessing that by posting in Classified Ads he’s in search of someone selling one.
Not sure if this was mentioned. But you can buy a quality mulching blade and install it on any crappy $99 mower. They do work wonders.
-J.
This is important if you’re mulching the leaves with your mower. If your blade has an end that curves up and is solid without the serrations, it’s not a true mulching blade. The serrations in the bend is what truly makes it a mulching blade. Toro recyclers come with one and someone previously mentioned the gator blades which are also great for mulching.
<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>eelpoutguy wrote:</div>
X2Nice lawn is way, way, way, way, way, way, down on my list. I have bigger fish to fry.
X3
I also like clean water, and don’t feel the need to spread chemicals everywhere to impress others with how grass looks on my yard. We all play a part in clean freshwater whether small or large scale.
Milorganite in particular is actually an organic fertilizer which is made up of Milwaukee’s waste so it’s not too bad for the environment. That’s why it won’t burn your lawn either. Stuff like Scotts, yeah those chemicals aren’t great.
good helpful info. i got a 30 year old craftsman 20 insh with i side shoot that will have to do. running over it a few times isnt a big deal. how thick do you guys let it get???????????
If your mower has the mulching capability (with a true mulching blade on it) then you actually wanna close up that side chute. Closing it up helps keep the leaves and grass up in the deck longer, creating smaller pieces.
The website posted here is the real deal. There are others being posted that are fakes.
Once I find a better solution like maybe an Arizona type rock or Astroturf yard) I’ll feed my lawn with Roundup.
I don’t know why they can’t engineer a short growing dense grass that only needs mowing 3 times a year. That’s about what I manage anyway.
There are actually a few blends of fine fescue and bentgrass which grow very slow and only need a few mowings a year.
X2 on mulching the leaves into the yard in the fall. Been doing this for about 5 years now. Lawn looks good and comes back nice in the spring. Sometimes it takes a few passes to mulch them up enough but seems to be worth it.
X3. Those long afternoons raking leaves used to suck. Couple passes of the mower and done.
Another milorganite user here. Really like that it won’t burn the lawn if you overdo it. I normally apply my last round of fertilizer around July 4th but with how humid it was this year I passed and did an anti fungus spray instead. When everything dried up I did a light dose of milorganite. Another round won’t be put down until the leaves turn.
Right now I’m needing to mow twice a week to keep up, keeping the deck high. I have a female dog and need to water her urine to prevent it from killing spots, going to look into lime as a mitigant as noted above.
Not exactly South Minneapolis but the BP on Old Shakopee and Old Cedar off of 77 in Bloomington has a good selection with reasonable prices.
<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>Ralph Wiggum wrote:</div>
Yeah, some of us are more connected to the issue and have been aware of this simmering situation for quite a while.Fair enough. Now that a couple of Johnnies have chimed in about their displeasure, I would be interested in knowing what some former or current alumni of the other member MIAC schools think of this. Anyone?
Bethel alum, don’t like it and think the reason is ridiculous.
