Michael – It looks like I could have worded things much differently at the time in my response to the OP. The OP mentioned that he owned 3 Rangers previously and was intrigued by the price savings of the 1910 and discouraged by the hefty Ranger prices, thus the budget comment. I was trying to communicate the smaller bodies of water and price differences into one sentence and it certainly didn’t come out right!

Regardless of the boat of choice, today’s fully equipped walleye rigs are exceeding $50K-$60K-$70K-$80K-$90K. There isn’t much value in any of the boats at those prices other than the time spent and memories gained on the water, therefore, shop wisely for the boat that best fits your wants, needs and finances.

The 619FS, WX1910 and a tiller made my final list when choosing a new boat, and each one had a sizable price difference. After owning a WX1880 for 6 years I didn’t feel the improvements made on the WX1910 would yield a different enough boating experience for the next 6+ years, and I was trying to keep the boat length under 20 feet for storage purposes, therefore, at a larger purchase price, the 619FS made the cut. My fishing styles and boat wants changed over the years, and I wanted to get back into a slightly longer boat, a wider boat for better stability (while fishing from the bow and the stern) and a better storage system for tackle and gear, at the expense of the jump seats.

If I was the OP and happy with the current 620, then I would keep it.

HP ratings are determined by the Coast Guard formula. HP rating = (2xLxW)-90

skeeter20 wrote:

I have a buddy with a 619FS and its a nice boat. Skeetsnd the 1880 vs 619 is not even a fair comparison lol nor is the 1880 to the 1910.

Glad to hear to hung some Yamahas on the back How fast is the 619 with 225 Offshore?

skeeter20, In your opinion, is there a boat in the Skeeter lineup that the 619FS fairly compares to?

I’ll have to get back to you with speed numbers once a new prop arrives, but mid 50’s top end loaded with fuel, gear and 2 passengers is achievable. The Mercury’s and Evinrudes are faster but I bleed Yamaha like you bleed Skeeter!

bradl110 wrote:

Looking to downsize into one of these two models. Wanted to see if anyone has experienced ridding in both models to compare. I know there is quite a price difference between the two and hose power. I have owned 3 Rangers and can not say enough good things about them. The only knock is the hefty price tag. I have never been in a skeeter (on the water) so I cannot speak from experience. But i have to say I’m a litte intrigued by the WX 1910 just because of the price and my overall love for Yamaha motors. I recently moved into an area where fishing smaller bodies of water will be the norm with occasional trips to mile lacs and LOTW. I made a quick stop at the SBC about a month ago and stood up in the 1910 and the first thing i noticed was how narrow it was compared to my current 620. Will it be tough for me to make the transition from a 620 to a WX1910?

I currently own a ’16 619FS and prior to this boat owned a Skeeter WX1880. I think it would be tough to make the transition from a Ranger 620 to a Skeeter WX1910. You’ll miss the bow width around the front pedestal, the bow depth and the rear tackle storage. You’ll also miss the stability the extra beam width provides in the wind. I’m not about to bash the Skeeter because I really enjoyed my 1880 but the 619FS is in a different class. Yes, the Ranger also comes with a different class of price tag!! If you need the jump seats in the stern area then Skeeter 1910/2060/2190 might be your choice. I didn’t need them and became tired of rubbing cheeks and tripping over tackle bags. I like my Yamaha’s as well and was able to arrange through my dealer a F225 4.2L Offshore as the main power source along with a T9.9 kicker. If you’re mostly fishing smaller bodies of water or on a really tight budget then it could be a tough decision.

http://www.gundoghousedoor.com/

I purchased the Easy Dog Door for use in the garage for about a 65# lab. Door has been in use for almost 8 years and it’s been great. I also purchased the drop-in panel and that’s been nice to have to keep the cold out in the winter. Install was easy from the inside. Had to improvise with j-channel on the exterior siding. Mounting height depends on your dog’s height. I would definitely purchase again.

If the specs on the proposed WX2030 are correct I’m curious as to why it’s only rated for max 250hp and not 300hp. Compared to the MX2025 this proposed WX2030 is longer, wider, deeper and heavier, yet rated 50hp less.

I appreciate the feedback guys. Prior to reading some of the recent posts I added a bead of silicone around the drain exterior but haven’t been on the water to test it yet. If that doesn’t work I’ll be replacing the drain and the connections on the interior.

I rarely use the rear baitwell. I never use the front livewell/baitwell.

The leak seems to occur all the time, especially on days when there is a chop on the water. It’s been this way since I purchased the boat in 2008 but the leak is becoming more visible the past couple years. It’s not leaking from using the front baitwell but rather water entering through the drain on the starboard side or someplace else. It’s not a leak from the speedometer. Tightening the nut didn’t help but I’ll check it again.

I only plan to use the boat a couple more times this year. I have a few more things to try yet and if they fail I’ll have all winter to make repairs. It looks to be about impossible to access under the baitwell without having to do some fiberglass work. I’ll probably take the approach to remove all plumbing I can access, including the exterior drain at the fiberglass, replace the quik-lok connector and reseal everything I can. If that doesn’t work remove the drain, fiberglass the hole shut and abandon the front baitwell completely!

Tightening the nut didn’t help my issue. This is on a 2008 WX1880. I’ll try the other suggestions mentioned in this post. Thanks

I started with Splitshot’s recommendation to tighten the nut at the end of the hose/intersection with hull. The nut was a little loose and the carpet around it was wet from being on the water yesterday. I sure hope it’s not the quick-lok connector that GlennR mentioned. That would be difficult to change because there is no excess hose to play with.

The boat is great but I don’t care for the front baitwell/livewell on the WX models. I wish Skeeter would build a raised baitwell in front about the dimensions of the current baitwell lid. Opposite side have a raised cooler and extend the bow storage compartments underneath both the cooler and baitwell. A setup similar to Warrior’s front baitwell. There would still be ample bow space and storage with that configuration and a little more conducive to walleye fishing. Turn the cooler at the step into additional tackle storage or leave as-is. Please pass my suggestions on to Skeeter and I’ll upgrade! LOL

Thanks for the tips guys!

ND Skeeter, Get in touch with Bob at Gibbon’s Fiberglass Repair in Bismarck at (701)224-0656. He’ll look over your cracking issue, provide you with a quote and most likely work through your dealer and Skeeter to get it fixed. Myself and another buddy had fiberglass work done to our Skeeter’s in the past at Gibbon’s. The process was smooth and the repairs turned out great and have held up over time.