First, I commend your daughter for rescuing this lab. My wife rescued a yellow lab and she too had unbelievable separation anxiety and destroyed numerous things in her house. She too destroyed crates and went “crazy.” What I’m about to suggest may not even be an option. Our vet suggested a 2nd dog; a stray beagle-boxer mix in this situation. Bringing a new dog into the situation has it’s own set of circumstances, of course, and did in our situation. However, after some time, the two bonded and became best friends and all but eliminated our lab’s separation anxiety. She still had to be around us or her new friend and always kept track of one of her “pack mates” her entire life. Our lab went on to be one of the greatest dogs we’ve had as well as our little beagle-boxer. It sounds like your lab’s situation has improved but thought I’d throw this out there. Good luck to your daughter and her dog.

Check your PMs. I might be able to help you with all your questions.

My wife and I both shoot Walther PPQs in 22LR to save on ammo costs because we’re at the range quite often. I don’t have much experience with other models and brands in this caliber but am happy with the PPQ’s performance and trigger. I too am selective about triggers and have customs in my other pistols. Do you have access to a range where you can rent and try different models?

fishthumper, I don’t have much to add as most have covered this topic extremely well for you. I too, recently purchased my first AR for several reasons you listed. You won’t regret it! These rifles are as fun as it gets to shoot. I’ve only been to my indoor range as I just purchased this in January but can’t wait for good weather to shoot out in the open at longer ranges. I asked friends and Rock River received many thumbs up (I have an X1). Mine is chambered .223 Wylde to offer flexibility when purchasing ammunition. Seemed to find better bulk ammunition prices this way which was an additional motive for me (223/556). I found a Vortex Strike Eagle 1-6×24 scope which seems to be versatile for indoor/close range as well as ranges for coyotes and prairie dogs if you go this route.

Aaron Mills wrote:

Skeeter dealers meeting was a blast! Did I meet any of you there? I’m with Bellwood boats in Glendo Wy.

Hi Aaron-great to see there is a Skeeter dealer out here. I sent you a PM.

Interesting results for sure. I would think given the cost of these props that one wouldn’t even make it out the door which was off pitch. When my 20 was re-pitched to a 19 apparently it wasn’t even really a 20-that one was off as well. Kudos to them for making it right. Yes, results seem all over the place. Is it possible your 20.5 is an exceptional prop (to good)? It is possible all our loads are different??? I have a kicker and two batteries in the back with three in the floor.

I had my 20 LT re-pitched to a 19 since I had to have this prop repaired, unfortunately…whole different story. However, my hole shot improved and went to 5750 on RPM and top end of 54.5, again this is at almost 6,000 feet of elevation. I did run this prop at just under 2,000 feet of elevation and my top end was 5800 rpm (surprised it wasn’t more) but speed went to 57.5 and hole shot was extremely good. I was able to run at moderate speeds in chop and the handling and ride were the best I’ve experienced with any prop. Once we get to cooler weather and water I’ll report any differences I’m observing. It was downright hot (water and air) when I was getting these numbers.

slawrenz wrote:

I had Skeeter Boat Center add Trim Tabs to my MX2025 and it made the Wife quite happy. In fact its the first thing she asks about when we hit some waves. In addition I put the tabs fully down religiously when taking off, it drops the rise of my bow by at least 1/2. In addition they work very well for adjusting the load port/starboard

Do you have a photo of where your tabs are mounted?

Impressive results Bill. How was your hole shot with the 23 Bravo FS? I assume okay given you have a jack plate.

Adding to this conversation, I purchased a 20 Bravo LT. Handling and ride is amazing with this prop. However, my hole shot diminished and I lost too many RPMs. At this elevation (over a mile high) I’m over propped and will have this prop worked to provide better hole shot and increase RPMs. Running 53 at 5700 RPM. Starting with a 19 would have probably been better.

Not sure which graphs you’re using but looking at Lowrance, these are the recommendations from the Gen2 touch product manual; can’t find anything with Gen3 and Carbon suggestions.

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70% isopropyl alcohol diluted 50/50 with water in a little travel size spray bottle and microfiber towel.

Great news Gordon! Your suggestions are spot on. I too had to disconnect the hydraulic hose on the port side and disconnect my kicker connected to the main motor to get in there with the spanner. My wife was nice enough to hold the fluid and steer the wheel at the helm. I worked the bleeders and held the cylinder by hand against the pressure which seemed to push a lot more air. Agree, two people is best. I simply cut the bottom off a quart container and used that as my funnel for refilling at the helm when the fluid was getting low. I haven’t priced the other fluid options besides SeaStar’s brand; yes, its pricey. Bummer about your spill, I did the same thing at the end of the process after keeping everything clean until that point. I used oil absorbing sheets everywhere.

Just a quick question. Do you have the nuts on the rod loosened as well as on the main brackets in the back? If so, consider attaching all of that. I saw or read a tip stating the first thing to do is loosen the caps before loosening anything else. Don’t know if this helps or not, just a thought.

Mitch, meant to add: Did you feel like your teeth were chattering when you put the Rev 4 in reverse? That’s when I really noticed it.

Mitch, great talking with you recently. IMO, best opportunity for good overall performance, not necessarily top end, is #1 a 19 Bravo LT, then #2 a 19 Rev 4 like you tried and then like we talked about. A Trophy Plus 19 has done well for me. I need to make a trip to Glendo soon and I’ll let you know when I’m there. We can pull my 20 Bravo LT off for you to try, but, IMO, is too much prop for this motor at this elevation (wish I had a 19 but ended up with a good deal for this 20). As discussed in this post and others, the Bravo LT offers better handling than any prop I tried, which was a lot. I have a 19 Trophy Plus you’re welcome to try. Having run my boat at low elevation and our elevation, these Yamaha Offshores are different beasts at our elevation for sure. No doubt in my mind they’re setup for sea level running and there isn’t much we can do.

Gordon, Adding to comments above which I agree with. I’m not too mechanical and was able to do the job myself and my wife’s assistance to bleed the steering system. I picked one of these up (has 3 pins instead of two) ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017KT4F4A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) and used my 1/2″ ratchet with extensions to get in there (may need a breaker bar and a trusting friend to hold the spanner in the holes). IMO, the spanner that comes in the kit may not be the right tool if your original installation if the caps over tightened. This tool then allows you to buy the kit with the caps, seals and O rings only (about $80). I bought this particular spanner because it’s identical the the spanner needed to replace my power tilt seals which go out frequently as well (maybe this spanner could be dual purpose for you) from what I understand (Yamaha) and much more torque was needed to remove those (did this job the same day as the steering). To me, this was worth every penny because like you I was told my repair shop is scheduling at the end of May which is not good for using a boat for fishing. Please feel free to message me, I just did this over the weekend. BTW. the new caps have multiple holes in them, not just the 4 so you can get in there from multiple angles and the new style has orange seals, old style is white. I believe SeaStar knew there may have been deficiencies and upgraded their seals.

I might be up there this weekend and will let you know. X2 to Aaron’s report. We boated it on December 30th to give you an idea of how late it is freezing up and only ice at that time was in Columbine. As of early this week I understand there was still open water near Harvey and entrance to Columbine.

Those look like good results. Thanks for posting your setup and conclusions! Well, maybe I shouldn’t be thanking you…my budget might be affected…

I only buy size 2 and size 3 (biggest ones). The twos are closed and the 3s are open. I don’t believe this has anything to do with newer and older versions of the lures. I haven’t noticed a difference in the fin size.

If you’re replacing hooks be careful with the open ones, I’ve broken a couple. For the size 2s I put a small split ring on to attach replacement hooks.

dr.-j. wrote:

Socoeye, I realize that this post is from more than one year ago; however, did the ferrite ring solve your problem? If so, would you please provide a manufacturer and model number for the ferrite ring. Thanks in advance for your information.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CR5HHD4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Dr. J, I picked this up through Amazon. It helped some but if I remember right I still had some interference. I also routed my power to the TM on the opposite side as far as possible from the ducer cable. Again, seemed to help a little.

I had a Gen 2 in the bow connected to the Xi5 and I now have a Gen 3 (this year). Through software updates and settings my interference is pretty much gone in the bow. When fishing deeper say over 30 feet I get interference but that’s due to multiple transducers and not the Xi5 IMO.

Hope this helps!

https://www.in-depthoutdoors.com/community/forums/topic/mx2025-with-an-altitude/

Ed, see if there is information which helps. We obviously have different motors (I have an offshore and you have an SHO) and Yamahas are extremely sensitive to elevation IMO so take what I posted with a grain of salt. If you try the LT, please post and let us know what you conclude.

Side note: Took my boat to DL last year and ran a friend’s 21p Trophy Plus and I hit 58+ at 5.9k rpms. Boat handled very well in rough water too with this prop.

I think having SBC take a look and add is a great idea if you’re not familiar with the wiring.

I have an MX and I had all Acc wires under the dash and at the bow used up with electronics and accessories. I also have a house battery for running accessories only. I had problems with my graphs shutting off with a power changes with my livewell pump kicking on and off. If you’re not running a bunch of accessories (graphs and the like), you may be just fine with the factory’s Acc wire system.

To solve this, well still working to this point with no graph shutoffs, I ran a dedicated fuse block under the dash. Like Grouse suggests, I ran heavy 8 ga. wire to the panel. Everything I researched stated this should be fine. Hopefully I don’t have problems as others are suggesting may arise after my battery ages.

Before this new setup and in previous boats, I always used to run my power for graphs direct to the battery (fused of course). This is a great way as well as others have suggested.

What type of transducer is in place? What is the code near the plug on a silver tag? I assume you’ll be fine in using what you have but let’s confirm which transducer is setup on your boat. I assume your bow mount trolling motor has a transducer built-in.

If you decide to put a Gen2 or Gen3 at the console; consider the possibility of adding a structure scan transducer (LSS2) or total scan transducer.

This answers some questions.
http://www.walleyecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=589722

Not sure if you may be referring to Airmar transducers or not??? If you are, I’ve been trying to research and see if there is a difference or it’s worthwhile changing over and read some posts on other forums. I believe we might be looking at Airmar 150 but from what I read this is only compatible with Gen 2s if using SonarHub, but this can be used with Gen 3s directly because of built-in CHIRP. Does anyone have experience with Airmars and notice a difference between Lowrance “standard” 83/200 and Airmar? Sorry Jason, kind of piggy backing on your post but this might be what you’re asking about as well.

I copied this idea from a friend. Being honest, a couple of the downsides are I’m always worried about accidentally stepping on a rod and I can’t open the port wing door with the rods there.

Sam, by far this was the best forum I found about these MX boats. If you go back in the archives (like a few years now) there are great comments and ideas. When I was shopping I spent a lot of time reading a lot of the older posts.

Yes with some liquid courage. Here is the evidence lol. Holes don’t bother me much when adding toys or making things convenient.

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I doubt they’d fit. Not sure how long the front deck is in an 1825 compared with a 2025. To get 7 foot rods on the deck of mine I drilled holes and used computer cord grommets. Not the best but it works for me. Keeps the rods secure when running along with a rod buckle. Hopefully my images attach. There is a 7 foot rod in here.

I agree with your observation about the front deck and is the only wish I’d suggest as an improvement; longer and wider in the bow area. This is minor though, there is still a lot of room.

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Happy New Year Sam! IMHO, consider a dual console based on reasons above. My two previous boats were side consoles for the same reasons you state. Now having fished out of a boat with dual console (my MX2025 has a full windshield) for two seasons, I will never go back to a side console because having the windshield is way too comfortable and there is great storage in this boat with the 2nd console as docfrigo states. I just put my boat in storage on Monday; having the option to fish cold weather with the windshield and “storm guard” is priceless. Of my two previous boats, one was glass and the other was aluminum. IMO, if you’re fishing from the bow almost exclusively, I am about 90% of the time, running your boat with a bow mount when comparing the two is a night and day difference. This MX sticks to the water and tracks perfect; more time is spent concentrating on fishing than positioning your boat. From time to time when the wind is blowing, I’ll put the bow mount in anchor mode and go fish in the back with my dad; it’s nice having the room in the back to do this. Good luck in your search!

I bought one of these brand new and still use it today. I’ve never had a problem with electrical, drivetrain or anything else for the matter, maybe I just got lucky. Strong machine; I’ve used mine for elk hunting (towing a 4×8 trailer full of gear and elk at 9,000 feet and plenty of snow-just chain up and go), 4WD roads in the summertime and my dad uses it to plow his driveway the rest of the time. My only complaint, which is not a Polaris issue, is the Warn winch. I’ve had two replaced and this 3rd one is about to go. Yes, they use more fuel when compared to the 500s but what doesn’t use more fuel that is bigger? A friend has a newer 850 and I burn less than he does.