The opener was a bit lacking in action due to the change in the wind the night before. The more prolific and experienced fishermen probably limited out but I ended up with an almost slot limit walleye at 16.75 inches. That evening off the dock we were hitting them like crazy all eyes were 13 inches and above. ended up with a total of 13 off the dock could have had a couple more for our limits.
Here is one other issue I have to take in to consideration before I really do anything. The motor, when engaged at any speed, wants to pull to the right. The trim tab is all the way to the right already so my marine mechanic friend said I will probably need new “no feedback” cables. I am under the assumption the cables are original.
A sock would work good, maybe I could rig up a bungee cord to hold the wheel straight otherwise it would get real old holding the wheel all day to keep course.
Thanks for the info! John, thanks for the tip, maybe gorilla glue?
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A friend of mine had one on his boat for one season. It was a pain in the butt and wouldn’t always release. He got really frustrated with it and took it off after the one season. You would be better off running a couple trolling bags off the front cleats, IMO.
I have thought about a trolling bag, only problem with my boat is that it is setup mostly for bass fishing right now, not much for cleats up front. Any suggestions on mounting cleats on fiberglass? LOL
I have the same switch on my DynaTrak I believe it is for, like you mentioned, switching from 12 to 24 volt. I always had a 12 volt power drive on so I never tested it out. I guess I could hook up a volt meter to substantiate our suspicion. Geese after 15 years of owning my boat I should know by now.
HA! Sometimes you just don’t want to take the chance! Yeah I haven’t actually ran it in the water with the 24V setting but I am pretty sure I could because the 12V setting barely moves the boat in a slight chop. i will have to do some testing as well.
Thanks for the info Walleyebry. Run a 12 or 24 volt system?
Has anyone ever had a Motorguide troller with a 3-way switch: 12V, off, 24V. After looking at my two batteries they look as though they are hooked up for 12Vs but each battery has a lead running toward the front of the boat before I can see if they are “connected”. I’m wondering if this troller is setup to switch back and forth between 12 and 24? Ever heard of this? When I do switch over to the 24V side the motor spins at least twice as fast.
I saw that in Minn-Kota’s 2011 product catalog but wasn’t sure how it would work for walleye trolling. Have you used this setup?
Which prop pitch did you go to? Not sure if I want to run that 150 at idle for that long. Run into any issues with the engine?
