My seat on my 2010 WX2000T is toast too, it’s like sitting on a hard mushroom now, I’m also the 2nd owner so I really don’t have a dealer to take it to. I contacted Skeeter about it, even though it’s a known and common problem with that model year (and older I presume), all they’d do is sell me a new seat at a “reduced” price. That was about the cost of buying the exact model seat through Cabela’s.

So far I haven’t done anything, I suffered thru another year with the plan of buying a better quality aftermarket seat.

Thanks for the advise. I really don’t have a dealer close to me that I know of, I’m in SWMN. I’ve heard nothing but good things about Skeeter Boat Center and would be happy to try doing business with them when it comes time to have work done or trade my boat.

Another update from Skeeter. The “reduced price” for a new seat, 2012 model, is $225. The seat looks like a Attwood Centric™ II, which I could buy from Cabela’s for $229.

Now I have to decide if I want to go with that seat or just get a different brand seat. Either way it looks like it won’t match my other seats and will be out of my pocket.

I got an another email back from the Skeeter warranty dept., they will replace the seat “at a reduced cost” since I’m not the original owner. I’m waiting to here how much it will be.

I did send an email to the Skeeter warranty dept., the response I got back is to take it to my dealer and it will be covered under warranty “if you are the original owner”. There’s the problem, I not.

I have a single ax trailer, I’ve had no issues. Pro’s on con’s to each, single ax is a little easier to move around but tandem gives a little more piece of mind. I bought mine used, previous owner had owned both versions and insisted with the 115 you do not need a tandem ax trailer, with a 150, yes get the tandem but that would only be the 09 model. I’d rather of had a tandem but like I said I’ve had no issues with my single ax trailer.

So propmann, what four blade would you recommend? Right now I’m running the stock 17p black SS, getting about 38 to 39 MPH top end, right at 6000 rpm.

Thanks for the info Eric! My other option would be to pick up a HDS-5 and run an ether net cable from my structure scan, I have one more port still available…..not sure wifey would be to happy with that though….maybe I better not push my luck!

I finally had a chance to really open her up on my favorite lake. Fully loaded with my wife, 2 kids and the golden retriever top speed was about 37. I was getting right at 6000 rpm but felt like I could have trimmed up a little more. This is with the factory 17p painted SS.
While on the way home we stopped at a gas station and there was another 2000T with a 115 Yamaha, I took a look at his prop, it was also a 17P but was polished SS, looked like it had more cupping too. I wish I could have had a chance to talk with the owner but he was leaving just as we arrived.
Overall I love the boat, the storage is awesome. I did a fair amount of back trolling and it handled very well. It was also my first opportunity to really play with my HDS-10, I have to say I am very impressed with structure scan, I used the down imaging almost all the time….loved the detail!

yep, 115…..Wifey was helping me measure, I told her to hold the tape where the motor is the farthest back, I rounded it UP too, so 22 should be safe.

I just measured mine, it’s right at 22′, that’s to where the tongue swings away,

Any updates on this from any of you? I also have a 2000T with a F115, the hole shot seems good, top end right at 38 but can over rev it with the factory 17p painted SS prop. I’ve only had it on the water once and that was on a small lake but it seems like I’m getting the same results as everyone else.

I have it installed on my HDS-10, I really do like the favorite soft keys, works slick.

I wish I had rails, but my boat doesn’t and it has a custom snap on cover and if I installed rails now I would have to have a new cover made…..although that has crossed my mind.

Thanks Ken, other than when it’s on the water I always turn off the master power. And unless I have minnows in the baitwell that I am keeping alive I will shut off all power even when at the dock. If it becomes a problem I’ll just put an in-line switch on it I guess.

For some reason I couldn’t get mine to power up hooking the yellow wire from my HDS-10 to the yellow wire from the LSS-1. I ended up running the yellow from the LSS-1 to an accessory outlet on my fuse box, so anytime I have my master power on the LSS-1 is powered. I had already installed a single bank charger on my starting battery and out of habit I pretty much always plug in when back at the dock so draining my battery shouldn’t be a problem. Are there any other downsides to having the LSS-1 powered all the time?

I would agree with DeepDiver. Get as big as you can afford. I have an HDS 10, I just added structure scan, once you start splitting the screen things get small even on the 10″. I’m even thinking about adding an 8 just to run my mapping. BTW, mine is an Insight, unless you travel all over the nation fishing save your money and by a mapping chip, either for your region or state. I ended up buying a Lakemaster MN chip anyway.

Thanks Dan. How about the transducer cable, is that wired to the bow as well? I would assume I would need the dash mount kit for it as well.

Mostly concerned with the holeshot and on plane speed. The lake I fish 90% of the time isn’t all that big so top speed isn’t terribly important. My Warrior would top out at about 32-33 with a full load of family + gear + dog. Would be happy with the high 30’s with this as long as I pop up on plane fairly quickly. Thanks for any help!

Thanks for the comments so far. I’m really looking forward to getting to “know” this rig. I had my Warrior for about 8 yrs. and I loved the boat control I had with it. Hopefully I can eventually have the same luck with the Skeeter, it was just time for something a little bigger.

The garage is actually a warehouse/shed, it’s now stored in a heated shop for the winter , that way I can play with it when I want!