Definitely the Lake Vu ultra if money is not an issue. You can find them lake map chips for much cheaper on eBay.

carver wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>Robert Duncan wrote:</div>
Dicks has the Garmin Panoptix Ice Fishing Bundle for 25% off today only.

Thanks for the heads up. After tax it’s a savings of $350. Someone out state where there isn’t a Dicks, that even a better killer deal at $450 off. I was going to wait until the Mpls sports show to get some end of the year discounts but cant beat this.

GARMIN is supposed to be excluded from Dick Sporting Goods promo 25% cyber Monday sale or any sale they have. But they have not noticed or prevented the promo from applying. This is an out of the world deal and if your looking to invest in a panoptix there should be no reason to wait. Jump on this deal before Dicks notices it’s not being excluded and removes it from eligibility.

You can solve the binding problem by pulling up the auger to clear ice chips out of the hole right before you think your gonna near punching through the bottom. Clearing ice during drill leaves a cleaner hole after anyhow too. Once you clear the ice chips lower it back down to cut and it will punch through without binding.

Nope lol. Your not gonna see or catch anymore fish with it. Same thing besides brushless motor and claimed brighter lights. I think most can see the lx5i just fine. Wonder if they will offer an upgrade from lx5i to M5 components.

Running the Bienno Power battery for two years now well worth it. Got mines during the Black Friday sale with 10% off. Battery + lithium charger for about $100. Always buy the proper charger for a lithium battery. I’ve heard of guys using smart sla chargers causing the battery to fail after some use.

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Im not so sure that they are releasing new flasher units after the “i” series refresh they just gave a couple season ago.

I was all for them giving the mechanical flashers some upgraded bells an whistles a few years ago. But someone on here that goes by the name “James Holst” once told me it would be the worst R&D dollars ever spent that he would throw rocks in the Marcum office window if that was to ever happen… lol.

Well Marcum did refreshed the lineup with the “i” series features. We will just have to wait lets see if new models will happen comes the new ice season. James just might be tossing rocks this time around lmao..

It does actually matter, charging lithium batteries at freezing or very cold temps or too hot temps can cause damage to the cells.

Lithium batteries have an optimal charging temp and the technology built into some of batteries or chargers won’t allow the battery to charge until a certain temp is met.

For instance Milwaukee M18 XC lithium batteries won’t charge if it’s too cold or too hot (charging in between at 32F-104F).

If you put the battery on the charger the led will blink red that means not charging. Once the cells are warm enough or cool enough the led will show a constant red lift indicating charging is happening.

This is what happens when you don’t read the instructions that came with the Kdrill. It will state to set on low speed/high torque and on drill mode only. I’ve seen a few guys on the ice with the same issue had to walk over to educate them.

Nothing but the best Merino Wool on earth….

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Ullfrotté Original

Clam Plate w/the Milwaukee M18 Fuel drill that last 3-4 years. Will never go back to gas. I use lazer and kdrill augers. I do however keep a gas powerhead around for trips that may have 30″+ ice.

I run the Clam drill plate with Milwaukee M18 2703 drill & 6″ lazer synthetic or 7″ lazer all ice season long, thin or thick ice. I carry 6 batteries and seldom do I go through 4.

I also run the Tanaka 270 PFDH powerhead on the 8″ kdrill. Although I use my kdrill on my clam plate not once did I fire up my Tanaka to be used on ice.

Battery powered ice auger is the way to go. I drill on average 40-60 per outing.

The TUC quick tip is a carbon rod with a fast tip, much closer to what a panfish carbon rod would be but stronger backbone still.

A JM meatstick is a noodle rod, best to compare the TUC precision noodle. The Bullwhip is a fiberglass rod also but has a more stout tip and backbone then both. Better with pounding heavier jigs.

pattyice wrote:

I am always hesitant to run lubricant in amounts less than prescribed by the equipment manufacturer. Amsoil is good oil, but why risk seizing an engine due to lack of oil? 80:1 (1.6 oz oil) and 50:1 (2.6 oz oil). I’ll continue to run my equipment at the recommended mixes.

This is a misconception. I have ran 100:1 Amsoil Saber in my Tecumseh and Solo motor for 5-8 years. I’ve also have read many reviews of folks running it for 10yrs or even longer with little to no issues or complaints.

Oil is a blend of components. The bulk of it is a base stock, which is oil, but it’s primary purpose is not to lubricate, but rather to blend with, and carry additives that provide specific functions. The most important additive is the one that provides the lubricity. Some people refer to this additive as “bright-stock”. The base oil also can blend with and carry other additives designed to accomplish different things. For example, quality oils have an additive that helps maintain the integrity of the gasoline should it be stored as mixed fuel for extended periods. Another additive may help reduce exhaust smoke.

At 100:1 most people look at that and think that there simply isn’t enough oil to allow the engine to survive, but again, it’s not the amount of base stock that is the important issue. It’s what is contained within the blend. Their blend has higher percentage of the additive than does another branded oil that mixes at 25:1.

jon morris wrote:

Troutbum, I cant seem to find that clam box on their website

That’s because it’s a cheap Eagle Claw rod box. The hinges look like the will break at any moment in fridgid cold weather. But what ever work right?

It’s very fast indeed. But the 42v ice gator powerhead is heavy w/battery it comes out to 21-22lbs as far as I remember. This is without the drill bit which depending on size can add another 5lb-10lbs+.

I drilled hundreds of 7″ holes with the Milwaukee M18 Fuel on 30″ last season. I also drilled a large number of 6″ & 8″ holes all on Lazer hand augers. All in all over a 1000+ holes last ice season with the drill/clam plate setup. The key here is a high end torque brushless drill that is capable of handling the load. Plus the advanced lithium batteries they have dont need to be kept warm, however I do just sheild mines from the cold in a backpack or bag.

A bare cordless drill tool runs about $125 on ebay, if I was to ever burn out my drill its easily replaced without breaking the bank. I havent seen any reviews of someone burning out their brushless drill yet on the clam plate.

buddah6 wrote:

It does come off but its a 9/16 arbor on the 2nd gen, the 1st gen is 1/2 which is compatible with the adapter. The 9/16 is not, Milwaukee had to change the size on the 2nd gen because of the much higher torque.

I see, i was confused by what you meant via arbor. So the chuck spindle is actually 9/16 and no longer 1/2. I actually prefer the design of the old clam plate due for that part that it wont have chuck slippage issues. I may have to re-purchase the 1st gen M18 fuel just for this then. I already do have the new redesigned clam plate for this year but there seem to be some wobble or play once you install the adapter shaft onto the plate. Will need to field test it for results.

buddah6 wrote:

Just to save someone the trouble I thought I would fill everyone in on my findings. I bought a clam drill plate and have the new Milwaukee fuel M18 with 1200#’s of torque. The drill plate requires you to take off the chuck to make it work. This drill will not work with the older drill plate because even though it has a 1/2 inch chuck it now has a 9/16 arbor because of the higher torque.

So the 2nd gen M18 doesnt have a threaded spindle like the 1st gen? Certainly doesnt look like that from the service parts diagram.

From the looks of it the 2nd gen chuck should come off and your should be able to screw on the clam adapter.

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YOU ALL have this issue. Run it in dynamic mode. Then run the demo. It happens in demo and during real time use too I have confirmed this on every LX6 and LX7 ive tested running the latest software.

See this old thread post below:

http://www.in-depthoutdoors.com/community/forums/topic/ice_1309602/

Anyone have reviews with the kdrill on Strikemaster honda/solo gas powerheads? Ive seen the kdrill on the Tanaka powerhead and it looks good. Probably comes in at 16lbs-17lbs with the 8″ kdrill bit.

I wanna put the kdrill 8″ on my Honda powerhead but it may be too slow…

Forget about soft cases especially if you got a noodle rod. Get an Otter rod box hard case.

I bet the new Milwaukee M18 Fuel drill (2nd gen) with 1200in lbs torque could turn that 9″ auger or even 10″ one. But a lazer power drill bit just might be too aggressive and heavy and wear down the life of the drill quicker then usual. But im certain it would turn the 8″ and 10″ Nils.

Thinking too hard here. Set yourself up with an electric auger. Lightweight, odorless, and will allow you to cut 40-60 holes on 15″ ice with a 4ah battery.

Use an 18v drill with an adapter or get the new clam plate setup where you dont have to remove the chuck. Make sure your batteries are 4ah or better.

Most 18v drills with at least 500in lbs torque will handle a 6″ auger bit. For a 7″ and or 8″ bit I recommend 700in lbs torque spec capable drill or better.

Milwaukee ups their game with the new M18 Fuel drill – Generation 2 and the ability to have a 6ah or even 9ah battery and 1,200 in lbs torque! This thing is gonna be a beast on the clam drill plate setup even with an 8″ bit.

Here’s a quick comparions of the old and new M18 Fuel drill:
http://toolguyd.com/milwaukee-m18-fuel-brushless-drills-2703-2704/

I swapped to the Clam Drill Plate auger last year and never looked back. Its the ultimate light weight auger setup currently on the market. I currently own a barely used Honda Auger and have owned or used many others brands, Lazer Pro, Nils, Eskimo, Ion, Lithium lazer etc. Guys out on the ice will come over in awe and ask to see and test it out. Its quiet that you can fish your favorite secret pond without drawing any attention from the noise unlike a loud gas auger.

You can pair it up with hand lazer, kdrill, & even Nils bits. Depending on the size bit you choose it will weigh anywhere between 14lbs-18lbs. Because of the Clam plate its much more stable and safe then using just the drill with/adapter on a bit. Plus Clam claims the bearing on the plate helps the life of your drill from burning out.

My current favorite bit is the 7″ lazer hand auger paired with the clam plate & the Milwuakee M18 Fuel drill. I have drilled up to 30″ ice with little issues. As far battery life on 18″ of ice I could get up to 25 holes drilled before the battery runs out.

Drilled over a 1000+ holes last ice season, it was so efficient that I didnt even break in my brand new Honda gas auger. And it will drill an 8″ hole with ease as long as you dont drill 5 or more consecutive holes one after the other the drill wont over heat or shut off. With the 7″ bit I can drill consecutive holes non-stop no issues. I drilled 23-25 holes in 18″+ ice till my battery went out just to test it if the safety on my drill will kick in it never did.

One of the main issues is with the extension the bit isnt balanced. You can remedy this easily but just using electrical tape around the extension bar so that it fits snug on the bit so that it wont wobble. Also batteries are on the spendy side.

This ice season I dont plan to fire up any gas auger…

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Update on my end, my collar bolt was tight that day i checked it on the Honda. But upon trying to loosen it last week I found somehow the bolt was damaged or broken. Luckily I was able to get it out. I put in a replacement collar bolt and it seems to be much more secured now with minor play. Too bad I wont get to use it again this ice season as im pretty much done. The electric drill auger setup from clam plate setup has really won me over. Might decide next season to sell the Honda :P.

If this is a MN lake there are only two lakes that come to mind for perch and tullies. That’s Winnie and Mille Lacs. At 23″ I doubt those were tullies. They rarely get beyond 18″. Or you had a mix of tullies and whites.

Save yourself the hassle and gimmick and just run 89-92 octane gas w/Amsoil Saber. I dont even run non-oxy.

Not all oils are created equal, hence the myth of running a 40:1 vs 80:1 etc. Some folks like to think this as running only 2qts of oil in your car engine when the mfg’s ask you to run 4qts. Is it the same thing?

Ive been running Amsoil Saber 100:1 5yrs straight on my Solo lazer Pro. No issues at all, stored wet at end of every ice season and starts right up at start of season. I hear users running the typical factory recommended brand oil mix and seeing their augers have all sorts of starting and mechanical issues time after time. If ones still worried then you can mix the Amsoil Saber at your mfg’s recommendation.

Interesting, thread brought back from the dead…

I still have my otter shield. But I will not use it. I can clearly see where the lazer power blades have rub and cut up on at the bottom of the auger shield. This to me is a red flag. I now use the red protective blade cap by Cold Snaps and a full auger bag when transporting in the vehicle. Have not had an issue cutting ice since.

However this was just my experience back then. Anyone else experience may differ, whether they have an issue or not. And yes I have seen the many scenes where the shield is used in the IDO videos. If my blades are rubbing, I aint using it. May be ok use for a chipper bit.

I no longer have the Solo Lazer Pro but the Honda now. The Honda has been rarely used since the Clam Drill plate has been my preference so far this ice season. I run it on 7″ SM lazer hand bit. Light, quick, and can cut 25″+ ice no problems.

castle-rock-clown wrote:

Got my 8″ k-drill today with dual chipper blade and mounted it to my strikemaster 3hp solo powerhead. I had the 8″ lazer drill and it weighed 24.4 lbs, with the k-drill it comes in at 21.4 lbs. I will be test driving her out on Green Bay at our GTG.

The weight numbers here are a little skewed. The 8″ solo lazer pro weighs in at 26lbs not 24lbs. So this would put your Kdrill and solo lazer pro powerhead at roughly 23lbs assuming the kdrill bit weighs 3lbs less.

The question here is will it cut faster or slower and with less torque?