Hi Guys,

I can’t tell for certain from the photo, but it looks like the ones you have are the Verpa Bohemica, also known as the false Morel. They are great in a roast because the soak up all the juices.

I’m from Washington State, and the Morels come up right after you start seeing Trilliums — the little wild flower that looks like an Easter Lilly. But I’ve also picked them clear up to late May, depending on the elevation and temperature.

Morels in March (starts) and Chantrells in September!

Anyway, the Morchella Angusticepts is the true Morel. Check the spelling on that? But either ones can make some people pretty sick. Some people are alergic to mushrooms, of any kind. So first, clean and par-boil some, and eat just a few. See how it goes!

Around here, we look for a place around the pine trees where it might have been burned. They seem to like the ashes, or maybe a burn triggers them. Not sure?

Interesting note: mushrooms (or more correctly mycillium) have recently been found to be the biggest living thing. It can go for miles underground, but it is one “creature”.

Nice pile of ‘shrooms’ you’ve got there. That kind of pickin is getting hard to come by around here.

By the way, they keep pretty well frozen. clean ’em, dry ’em, bag ’em loosely and then freeze ’em. A lot of people run a string thru them and dry ’em out to keep them.

Just had to write a note on this… if you are going to pick mushrooms, get a book. Lots of people have died a prolonged and miserable death by eating LBM’s (little brown mushrooms). Don’t even handle LBM’s when picking Morels or others that you plan to eat. And don’t get smart about it, some of these guys I’m referring to were university professors! It’s easy to mistake mushroom identity.

Mushroom picking is great fun but can also be fatal. If anyone is interested, I can suggest a few books. Or just get on the internet. You younger pickers, be careful!!

Not trying to be a know-it-all, because I certainly don’t. Just be careful with mushrooms.

After 40+ years of fixing fishin motors, here’s what I start with. It usually saves a lot of time in the long run.

First, check the fuel bowl. If there’s ANYTHING BUT clean gas in it, clean it AND all the fuel lines clear to the tank.

Next, check for good fuel pressure. Fuel pumps aren’t expensive compared to the headaches they can cause. Replace it if you have any doubts about it.

Reed valves (2 stroke only) will also cause all sorts of wierd problems. Replace them too, with Boyesen 2 stage reed valves and you won’t believe the difference in low end smoothness AND in high speed power.

Replace the water pump. They’re also cheap insurance. Don’t run the motor more than 3 seconds without water in it or you’ve damaged (maybe ruined) the water pump.

Always change the spark plugs, and then go on to the electricals and other stuff that you suspect needs work.

Check compression. 140 or more is great, but more important is that they are within ± 5 pounds of eachother.

Remember, God does not deduct that time spent fishin. But you can loose a lot of points with him when you’re on a lake with a motor that goes teats up. Not many of us can walk on water, so fix it good when it’s in your nice warm garage!

You won’t remember all your fishin trips when you get up in age, but you WILL REMEMBER every single time you had motor problems when you finally found the time and money to go fishin! Good luck.

Hi SteveO,

I’ve had both, up to 250 hp motors. For one thing, a good ($400 + ) stainless prop will keep you awake much like haveing a new 9.9 trolling motor hanging on your boat!

An ugly aluminum one hardly ever disappearsd, if you know what I mean.

The other thing is, alum. props are cheap by comparrison, and there are a lot of them hanging on the marina wall that never got picked up after the repair was done.

It’s cheap insurance to have a spare one of those on board.

One more thing — an alum. prop seldom ends a fishin trip if you happen to hit bottom in a shallow rocky area. Just replace it with your spare. But a stainless prop can take the shaft with it, or at least bend it enough to end the weekend.

For my money, an alum. prop is the way to go, but if you must, see if you can get a loaner on the CRES unit before you committ the $$, because they do things to the CRES units that can’t be done to the alum. ones. And that can make a prop of the same pitch run much differently at wot.

Regardless of the prop type, it should let you run within 500 rpm of top speed rating of your rig. If not, it’s too steep a pitch. Back off one pitch and try that one.

On the other hand, maybe top speed isn’t your thing so get a prop that gives you a better slow speed performance. In that case, it’s hardly worth the extra expense of the CRES unit (which really do better at higher speeds).

Thanks Brian.

Did you note the 108 pounds! That the only drawback. How is it the Nissan only weighs 81 pounds? They must be skimping somewhere.

Hey, thanks “fishcatcher” I didn’t think of that!

But w ouldn’t it look a little strange to see a boat laying upside down in the back of a pick-up truck with the motor still on it?

What is a T8? I don’t follow all the latest stuff.

I’d like to be like my uncle — he fished all his life with the one boat and motor that he bought in 1947. It ran fine because he always stored it right. He also only fished about 4 to 6 times a year, but you get the point.

I’d like to buy one motor and keep it. I have a 12 ft. smokercraft with a 20 inch transom. Great little boat with a lot of free board. It fits in the back of my gas guzzler and lets me also tow the trailer too.

Now days it’s just crab fishing, close to shore on nice days salmon fishin, and mostly small lake trout fishin in eastern washington.

So I need something to troll slow, and still get somewhere in decent time. The 15 was great, but it was HEAVY, and I’m not getting any younger (57 now).