Dutchboy wrote:

In looking at the photo I wonder where you got the 40-50 mph figure from if you were stopped. Thats not a 50 mph hit. At 50 mph I would think your frame would be bent and the whole rear end caved in. And then there would be the whiplash issue.

Might have been 40, but certain wasn’t 20. I was doing 50 had to stop pretty quickly due to a car a few cars ahead making a sudden left hand turn. It wasn’t but a few seconds 3-4 second later that I got it.

My wife was face timing with her kids and her face smacked her phone really good. It bleeding for a while and is still sore over a week later. I’m not sure what speed it would take to total the front end of a traverse but the other driver managed to accomplish it.

Coletrain27 wrote:

40-50mph and you were stopped? I bet there is gonna be a lot more damage to your truck than you think. Hopefully your insurance can get the money out of the low life with no insurance

Frankly I was expecting to get out and find a lot worse damage, I was surprised that I was able to drive away. There may be more damage that what I can see, I do have a slight harmonic vibration now at 50 mph which is why I think that. I was hit by what I believe to have been a Chevy Traverse, the front end was totally smashed in.

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Bearcat89 wrote:

Why is inspection in 3 weeks. Bring it to a shop immediately for a first quote. They can do it on site and then give that first inspection to the adjuster

That is the earliest I could get into the shop down the road. I will check around and see about getting it in earlier.

maddogg wrote:

Doesn’t your insurance policy have uninsured motorist coverage?

Yep, it does. I am just asking for sake of the deductible.

TheFamousGrouse wrote:

Question to 311. Have you priced pavers? With the prices for stamped concrete, it may be worthwhile to get bids on pavers. The look is better IMO and the added benefit is in this climate, cracks in a concrete patio are 199% certain and it’s only a matter of time. Pavers give the joints so no cracking and if eventually, they have issues with dips or sags they can be reset at a modest cost.

I have installed two paver patios myself on previous houses and considered it, but my time is more valuable to me these days and I don’t know that I can find to get it done in a reasonable amount of time (5 kids now). Might end up going that route in the end of I can’t find someone to come out and give a bid. Unfortunately I don’t have easy access to a 3/4 truck anymore to go rent a skid steer otherwise I would take care of demo and most of the dirt work which would help.

Tried one of the contacts above and they are based out Minneapolis and Anoka/Dayton is outside of there service area. Waiting on a call back from two others.

Tear out is actually 260 sq ft and new patio officially would be 500 sq ft. No fill is needed but may need to lower the elevation a bit based on future plans (dirt can stay on site). That is where I am looking for someone to come out to look at the work.

I don’t have a problem paying the right price for good work. Just not looking to get gouged and if it has to wait until next year so be it. Even without considering tear (lets say $1k) out $35/ft for a 550 sq ft stamped concrete patio seems excessive.

Can anyone recommend a contractor who would be able to help me address this issue the correct way?

Eelpoutguy wrote:

Depending on the system they used for your foundation insulation, you may need the insulation on the outside to prevent potential condensation issues.

FYI – Always best to have insulation on the outside. That brings the point of condensation to the exterior.

The new home we built 7 years ago didn’t have insulation on the exterior, only the interior. It seems like this was fairly common the new houses that I was looking at with block foundations. Is it common to insulate exposed foundation walls if the basement is insulated?

The basement of the house is finished and fully insulated so I don’t know that I need the insulation on the outside. I think this was done prior to the basement being finished. Any thoughts?

Based on the info here it seems like the best option may be to try to remove the existing insulation and then use something like Tuff Coat or Ground Breaker to make it visually appealing. My main concern is the looks of it, even if it’s scraped off I assume there will be foam stuck to the block walls.

Anyone know a contractor in the metro that might do a job like this?

Yea, I think the house was build in early 90’s.

Price lowered: $500

BC, can you send me pics of the SSR110? I may be interested. zachej1(@)gmail(dot)com

Dayton, MN….probably a little ways for you.

I would recommend not buying Costas that have the rubber nose piece built in. I have had to have mine replaced twice. The last time they didn’t have the right color lens available and my only option was to change to a different color lens on a replacement. I haven’t been wearing them much since.

Bump. $1350

Jerry, sent you a message back to figure out a time that works.

Pending pickup.

Dayton, so not far at all. PM me and we can work out a time if you want to swing by and grab it.

I went out today and threw some scrap pieces of sheetrock on top of the wall and heated up the shop. Sat out there for a few hours and the top of the sheetrock never got hot enough that couldn’t put my hand on it. I am going to put something up there be it sheetrock or a piece of steel but it should be more than adequate.

Randy Wieland wrote:

This is only speculation. I would look at the deflector panels used behind wood stoves to a wall when distance is minimal. My other thought is to layer fire retardant batt material then a cement board or other non combustible material

Thanks Randy. The deflector panels used behind wood stoves is what I had envisioned when mentioning the steel plate with an 1″ offset which I believe is what is used for wood stoves.

ClownColor wrote:

If they try to sell you insurance, WALK AWAY!

We also went the bank way. It’s free and it’s basically seeing if you are on the right track for what you want. A great way to start. If everything’s checking out good, go back and visit in another 3-5 years.

Looking for more comments on this one. I met with an FA from Northwestern Mutual a few months ago who seemed to really put a lot of emphasis on getting whole life insurance as a part of my overall strategy. It kind of threw me the wrong way after reading similar comments here in the past and I haven’t talked with them since.

Not to steer this the wrong way, but is whole life insurance an important piece to overall retirement strategy for most of you? I have a term policy through work.

lindyrig79 wrote:

In all seriousness, can you really use your real name but never like or comment on family members posts without causing a rift?

The obligation or at least perceived obligation of doing that is what keeps me away.

Don’t have any of that with IDO….

I have had a FB account for who knows how long but I never talk/look/comment on anything….even family. No happy birthdays to the random friend or even family through FB. I will call people direct if I want to talk to them!

Had my Blackfins replaced twice for this issue. The last time (1 month ago) they no longer had my lenses (silver mirror) and I had to go with a different color.

I love the glasses but will not be buying Costas again that have this type of frame.

Thanks for the input. My house is in an area that sees a lot of interest so I don’t worry much about the marketing, once the MLS is up people will find it.

With all of the tech out there today I was seeing houses show up for sale and contacting my realtor before he had a chance to look and tell me about them. It just seems that buyers have easy access to much of the same info. It’s just the transaction part that I need to figure out more.

fishthumper wrote:

Then again after all the time I’m putting into the daughters car I may decide the 175-200 cost to have someone else do it is not to expensive after all.

I hear ya! After a good wash, clay, polish, and wax I can easily have a good part of a day into my truck, and that’s just the exterior. That said I haven’t had time this year to do it.

B-Man had some great tips. Follow those and you should be set without doing any damage to the paint. Also, you need to use some sort of lubricant (I use Optimum No Rinse diluted appropriately) and you do not need to pres hard. I fold/knead they clay after each small 2×2 section I complete.

I have always had a black truck and have not introduced swirls when claying…it’s pretty easy just time consuming.

I have have an 07′ 1800 Mirage which is the basically the same boat as yours (I added the front Sportfish seating as well), I also have a 150hp Opti on it. My series 27 batteries are mounted in the front compartment and have no issues with bow lift. I am running a SS Tempest 19 pitch prop. I pay attention to the spray pattern and mine is in the back few feet of the boat at WOT like what you are looking for. I can do 47-48 mph.

My guess is you may have a cylinder not firing if you are only getting 40 mph. The batteries are definitely not your issue. I had a cylinder misfire issue one time and the only thing I noticed was slower to plane and I could not get near 47-48 MPH, I think it was only around 38-40 mph max. The engine seemed to be running fine otherwise I just could not reach top speed.

Let me know if you still need this done, I can talk to Eric. He would know someone.

Thanks all…this has been helpful. I finally have access to high speed internet and purchased a good modem/router to handle it, so was looking to take advantage. Shouldn’t run into band with issues going forward. DVR would be nice, so will likely look at the Hulu w/live TV. Gonna look at youtube to see what’s offered there as well.

Might consider the antenna in the attic as well, need to see how easy of access I have to the TV’s to run all cabling in the new house.

I likely have those crimps and tool if you wanted to go that route.

Is he interested in a 8hp tiller? I have an all manual long shaft I am going to be selling. 2006 Merc 4 stk.