Thanks for the reply … pictures won’t matter.
It would be easy to bolt on any kicker bracket IF there was access of the interior to ADD the needed washers/nuts for securing of the bolts.

I’m hoping for another 2075 Tyee Magnum owner with a factory kicker bracket that can provide measurements of exact placement.

Any previous contact I’ve had with Lund was “must go through your dealer”!

And sadly, in this particular situation…. this phrase comes to MY mind, “if you(I) want it done right, do it yourself”
Thanks for the reply MX1825.

Depending upon how simple and easy you want, the Sport Trak brackets should work fine for basic trolling rod holders. Now… if you choose or desire a bit more “beefy” system for your tube holders, accommodating two or more rods? I can recommend using the Sport Trak downrigger bracket attaching the rod holders to an aluminum (easier to fabricate) or stainless plate then attaching that plate to the Sport Trak downrigger bracket. The Trak anchoring slide can be slid to the stern and allowed to stay in the Trak with thumbscrews snugged and the holders can be removed and stowed out of sight and away. This helps for covering and trailering purposes.

I’ll offer up “good luck” getting that 4 stroke to troll down. I had an ’06 30 Merc 4 stroke tiller on my Lund 18SSV and I ended up adding a Happy Troller flip-up onto the motor for trolling. I ended up trading in the Merc on an Etec 40 tiller with selectable low rpm switch (and couldn’t be happier).

Really believe you will have a tough time propping your motor to perform both speed and troll duties,, just based on my experience with 4 stroke and factory set ECM.

I upgraded my boating to a new 2075 Tyee Magnum last year from a 21′ glass center console. Powered with my low-hours 250 Etec on the new Lund I immediately noticed how stiff the SeaStar hydraulic steering was. I had an older SeaStar unit on the center console and it was much easier to maneuver.
What finally POPPED into my head was the steering wheel of the cc was almost twice the diameter of the Lund wheel….thus making it more steerable with less movement.
Now, had my salesman/dealer mentioned something to this effect while selecting accessories for the Lund, I would’ve considered power steering.

Correct, no oil pushing out at the fill cap, only from under the dash / hose that connects fill port to helm pump – brass 90* fitting, and that fitting is SO tight to the aluminum dash structure at the highest point makes me wonder if during assembly some sort of damage occurred to the fitting / epoxy sealant, unknowingly causing my issue.
This isn’t my first boat with hydraulic steering and I never had heat expansion leakage with those. But I must also say that my other boats were fiberglass and I also had a lesser quality canvas cover that vented heat better.

Thanks for your reply Dutchboy, the issue is clearly caused by heat expansion of the oil. With boat sitting uncovered at a dock for hours in a hot sun I notice no leakage.
I have run a industrial 24″ floor fan under the cover venting out the un-snapped back during the high sun hours of the day and it does help, also no leakage.
It is just frustrating that I need to go through this to solve what should be an EASY fix problem.
My next inquiry to the dealer will be that the helm pump be removed and the brass elbow fitting be replaced with NEW epoxy….as it is IMPOSSIBLE even with a small dental mirror to see if the factory installed fitting could have a slight epoxy fracture, or possibly cross-threaded, and is actually leaking NOT around hose / clamp end.
But for the remainder of my boating season I’ll again be using the wrapped paper towel fix.