Grubson–I’d be interested in your method to keep them alive, in the boat and at home.
Are you in MN?
PM me if you prefer….thx.

done…I tried the two straps around the tire–still wouldn’t seal.

I got the last tire to seat the bead when I used starting fluid squirted inside the gap, with one strap tightened in the middle of the tire tread.
it didn’t POP, but the bead moved out to the rim enough that I added air through the valve stem, and then I removed the strap…what a fiasco.
added more air, and the bead snapped tight around the rim….then I reduced the air to the suggested running PSI.
Good luck guys, hope this helped someone else.

3/4 done
-used a wood 2×6 and piece of flat metal plate, and WD40 to break the beads with vehicle driving up the board.
-took multiple trys with the bead spray and rotating the tire…the board would push down, but adding the metal plate closer to the bead gap would eventually pop it down.
-tires removed from rims easily with two large screwdrivers.
-cleaned rim bead area with wire brush
-warmed up the new tires
-Applied lubricant to tire and rim
-tires pushed on by hand
-Inflating went well on 3 of the 4 tires, but last one arrived in shipping with two warped areas that would not lay flat (simultaneously) along the bead, even with two ratchet straps around the tire.
-tempted to try the starter fluid “POP” method on that last one today.

thanks for the tips–I’ll get some of the special soap, and try the hylift jack, I think.

OK—Gotcha….sorry
I looked twice , but did not see……HA!

Thanks, K—Found he problem a few minutes ago, and came to the computer and found your note.
Traced the power cord from batt, and found it had been broken off those two leads to the controller…hooked up the positive to green wire, neg to black, and it works as before….as usual, It seemed to be more than it was, but I hate standing on my head looking under the dash….even worse out on the water.
THANKS.

Did they get done with the update, and your log on work?

OK–thanks guys….

Here’s a wrinkle for you guys who like “crunchy corn shells”., but don’t like em to fall all over—warm a 10 inch flour shell slightly, add some taco meat, extra sauces, guac, sour cream, etc on that extra meat, and put your prebuilt hardshell taco inside…(Taco bravo style)..

Pulling for you, Randy..
Here’s something that made me chuckle…hope you too…

Letter from Kentucky Dept. Of Fish & Wildlife:
Dear Landowner:
KDFWR Staff will be conducting surveys for foothill yellow-legged frogs & other amphibians over the next few months. As part of this research we would like to survey the creek on your property. I am writing this letter to request your permission to access your property.
Recent research indicates that foothill yellow-legged frogs have declined significantly in recent years and are no longer found at half their historic sites. Your cooperation will be greatly appreciated and will help contribute to the conservation of this important species.
Please fill out the attached postage-paid postcard and let us know if you are willing to let us cross your property or not.
If you have any concerns about this project please give us a call. We would love to talk with you about our research.
Sincerely
Steve Niemela
Conservation Strategy Implementation Biologist
***************************** ******************************
****************************** *****************************
RESPONSE FROM LANDOWNERS:
Dear Mr. Niemela:
Thank you for your inquiry regarding accessing our property to survey for the yellow-legged frog. We may be able to help you out with this matter.
We have divided our 2.26 acres into 75 equal survey units with a draw tag for each unit. Application fees are only $8.00 per unit after you purchase the “Frog Survey License” ($120.00 resident / $180.00 Non-Resident). You will also need to obtain a “Frog Habitat” parking permit ($10.00 per vehicle).
You will also need an “Invasive Species” stamp ($15.00 for the first vehicle and $5.00 for each add’l vehicle) You will also want to register at the Check Station to have your vehicle inspected for Non-native plant life prior to entering our property. There is also a Day Use fee, $5.00 per vehicle.
If you are successful in the Draw you will be notified two weeks in advance so you can make necessary plans and purchase your “Creek Habitat” stamp. ($18.00 Resident / $140.00 Non-Resident).
Survey units open between 8 am. And 3 PM. But you cannot commence survey until 9 am. And must cease all survey activity by 1 PM.
Survey Gear can only include a net with a 2″ diameter made of 100% organic cotton netting with no longer than an 18 in handle, non-weighted and no deeper than 6′ from net frame to bottom of net. Handles can only be made of BPA-free plastics or wooden handles.
After 1 PM. You can use a net with a 3″ diameter if you purchase the “Frog Net Endorsement” ($75.00 Resident / $250 Non-Resident).
Any frogs captured that are released will need to be released with an approved release device back into the environment unharmed.
As of June 1, we are offering draw tags for our “Premium Survey” units and application is again only $8.00 per application.

You will also need to provide evidence of successful completion of “Frog Surveys and Your” comprehensive course on frog identification, safe handling practices, and self-defense strategies for frog attacks.
This course is offered on-line through an accredited program for a nominal fee of $750.00.
Please let us know if we can be of assistance to you. Otherwise, we decline your access to our property but appreciate your inquiry.
Sincerely,
Larry & Amanda

Working better–but still not great..I cleaned the connections at the batt posts, and fully charged the battery again.
Turned off the “A-Scope and adjusted gain to 18.
Battery level was around 80% by the time I set the house and got ready to fish.
Fished 3 hours, and the level dropped to about 50%.
I am seeing the lure most of the time, in 18 feet….not a strong signal, but better.
I’m wondering if I have a weak battery issue.
I will jumper to the fishhouse deep cycle battery tomorrow, and see if that changes anything.
THX.

this may be an issue–battery was on 70 % and dropped to 50% rather quickly as I used it.
I have charged it to full, and will clean the leads, and will check again tomorrow when I put the house back out…will report back…

Transducer is clean, and below ice level.
Correct transducer is listed on the menu.

THX GUYS.

shhhh…someone might hear us…

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Not for hogs on this hunt–he will be hunting deer in California.
A neighbor in MN shoots copper for the bullet weight retention, penetration, and no lead in meat–so likely could work good on hogs too.

Thanks guys–wanted to report back;
BIL found some ammo after about 40 calls, and driving 3 hours to a gunshop in CA.
He sighted in a new scope with lead 130 gr, then shot some of the precious 130 copper loads–quite a difference, but workable.
THX.

Yes 270 WIN, and he mentioned the 130 gr.
THX guys.
Will look on those sites, plus more.
Buying online is a new experience for me.

fishthumper–I sent a personal message–did you get it?

If anyone else notices this post and needs that same foot pad, I have two I’d sell for $100 each, plus actual shipping.
Good working condition.

tswo–I’m curious what you consider a similar/better blank available to rod builders…I’m a rod builder, and the SC3 avid blank (was very popular)is no longer available from St.Croix…..whats the replacement for the 3S66MLF, in your opinion?

Move back to top—
Anyone know the answer ?

Remember the plastic shotgun cases that came with your Remington, and you never used it?
I cut out the inside dividers, added carpet foam pad, and can protect at lease three rigs….more if I remove reels.
Check rod length–there were different size cases at the time.
Latches solid and airline tough case.

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cord is 6 inches long with ends described by JoeMX

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Is it just me, or does the scroll wheel on the mouse not work on this website?
I can pull down the sidebar, but find myself rolling that wheel for nothing.

OK Guys–I may have found the culprit—only fair to pass this along…
There are two springs on the top of the carb–one of those is about 1.25 inch long, and when the throttle is opened, that spring pulls on the metal piece that sits verticle and pulls over when acceleration starts…there are two holes where that end of the spring can be attached . I remember somewhere I read to use the hole setting closest to the engine block….and that is where the spring has been for some time.
By using the other hole, the linkage doesn’t pull open as far….and the auger cuts holes much better…make any sense to you guys?
Next, I’ll fine tune the high speed jet…but so far I’m much happier.
Thanks for everyones help…

Fantastic comments (ideas)–THANKS.
Follow-up;
-fuel pump diaphram has been changed several times–altho I have learned it has a seal with it that goes above/or below, depending on motor serial number..
-both carb jet screws are staying put–marked them–but will try some smaller HIGH SPEED adjustments per advice here. Does the low speed jet have any effect on faster run performance?
-haven’t been inside to reed valve–how to tell if its defective?
-using fresh 90 “NO” fuel and Jiffy oil mixed 40/1
-no filter in tank that I can see
-Iowaboy1…have not checked either of these items.
THANKS ALL…
Have considered electric–the 10″ chipper blade just fits my use…

Thanks 3rd–I’m not sure what a Vexilar fish phone is, or where to find that.
My tv has the rca jack and a place for HDMI cord…so I’m good there.
Thanks for your help.